LetTheRightLensIn said:

psolberg said:

He's not crazy. He's just not siding with canon and siding with the consumer instead. I see nothing wrong with that.

LetTheRightLensIn said:

He makes some good points, no denying that, but he does seem to be going a bit overboard.

And I do not agree with him that the D800 video looks better.

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there isn't much to agree on a fact. it simply does resolve more detail which is his primary goal. you can see a lot of comparisons in vimeo which demonstrates the lack of detail in the 5DIII footage compared to the D800, specially the 4:2:2 color uncompressed HDMI out which delivers video that is more grading friendly. Resolution wise the D800 is much closer to true 1080p than the 5DmkIII which is only fixable so far with the removal of the OLP filter. Although, I still think the hacked GH2 still delivers better true 1080p resolution than the D800. I have not yet seen a GH2 vs D800 shootout but I'm sure some will appear soon since as of now.

I decided to make the switch and have a D800 on order.

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The D800 isn't THAT much sharper once you have sharpened the 5D3 in post (neither are really THAT sharp actually) but moreso the problem is it (D800) has aliasing and tons of color moire (and a lot worse SNR). So I'd take the aliasing/moire free (and 1.5 stops better SNR) of the 5D3 over a tiny bit better D800 detail.

That said, if the 5D3 is soft because the 3x3 blocks are so far from the AA filter scale that they need to AA it a lot in post and soften it then why not a sharper 2x2 C300 like blocked mode at 1.6x crop? You either shoot FF for best noise and lowest DOF or you shoot cropped for a bit better detail and more reach.

THey really need to add cropped mode! It was unbelievable they left that out after the flack they got for the ridiculous leaving out manual controls for the 5D2 release.

They also gotta add zebra stripes, we know that 100% possible for sure since even ML hackers could add it to even the older camera. And focusi peaking while shooting wouldn't hurt either and some bitrate control options, allow for higher rates, locked CBR, adjust to maintain more deep shadow fine grain and low contrast detail, etc.

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we all have our goals and if the 5DIII suffices for some then I have no problem with that. However based on what I've seen and my own personal taste, it simply doesn't hold detail as well as the D800.

I'm not worried over miore. I've dealth with it in the 5DII. I also don't shoot patterns with the 5DII and won't with the D800. I'd take a 5DIII with moire that is able to resolve more detail over the current iteration (but that may just be my preference). I know I could mutilate a 5DIII like some are, but that's where I cross the line since then you also have to deal with IR.

You're correct you can try to sharpen in post but I haven't seen anything that I could say resembles even the base internal resolution on the D800 without lots of artifacts and sharpened bokeh. Say nothing of the 4:2:2 out. Sharpening just isn't a fix, not to mention the D800 footage can off course be sharpened too and retains the lead.

second, grading. I've been seeing a lot of footage of the 4:2:2 out on the D800 and it is obvious you can grade footage more gracefuly than with these internal 4:2:0 codecs.

third, codec panic with motion. The 28mbps looks better (exactly as you told me before and you were 100% right) than the all I codec. but that codec, like that on the D800's internal suffers during motion....this is why I'm now considering a ninja after seeing how well it handles in post

https://vimeo.com/40788982

ninja + 4:2:2 out seems to be in my future.

again this is my own personal opinion and I realize many will gravitate to the 5DIII strenghts in low light and footage with patterns. That's just not as important to me. I wish there was a camera that could deliver D800 devel of detail with 5DIII low light low moire footage all under 3K. I guess they are called D900 or 5Dmk4?

I thought the image of the 7D on page one was pretty good proof that it was photoshopped..... The other fake 70D with "stereo" mics above the lens is clearly a 50D, again with proof on page one. The dead give away is the front element of the lenses.

Hi, your construction looks a bit bigger and more complicated than it needs to be. You can make it smaller and lighter with the same functionality if you use the Novoflex PANORAMA=Q and the Benro MPB20. I use this combination together with the Benro PT-150, which is not necessary if you use the Kirk L-bracket.

Best regards,
Robert

Ok so I keep getting questions about this new sophisticated camera that I have here. Only thing is, I didn't want to start an entire thread each time. So here's a topic that everyone can ask questions in regards to the usage of this camera and hopefully we can get some help to those in need(like myself)

I'll start...

I upgraded from a T3i so things seem quite different on this cam.

1. When I had the t3i, I'd be able to click the 'q' button(in manual mode) and the menu would pop it. I could then go through the menu items and change and select, then change each individual one. When I click 'q' on this 5d3, the menu pops up, but only allows me to select the "Auto Lighting Optimizer", "card record location", and "record quality". But by clicking the info button theres more settings displayed on the screen, I just cant change them with the joystick. Is there anyway to be able to allow me to select the other options and chamge them(ie AWB, Picture style, AF) Mind you, this is when shooting in live view mode... (I hope my question isn't hard to understand. )

2. On the T3i, video mode had its seperate location on the mode dial. So when I wanted to record video, I'd change the mode dial to video and all of my previously used settings were there. Well here, I would go video mode in manual, but when doing so, it would still have my picture settings. Anyway to set it up so that in manual mode while on pictures it has one set of settings, but when I flip the switch to video, my video settings come into play, or must I change the settings everytime I switch modes?


PS. Im currently still reading the manual. This is the first manual I've ever actually read in my life lol.

MrSandman said:

I have never used any of my DSLRs to shoot video, so I know next to nothing about it. This is a topic about which I’m quite ignorant.

A lot of people complain that there are a lot of things the 5D Mark III lacks in terms of video.

I know that it doesn’t have uncompressed HDMI out, which (I’m guessing) means that you can’t hook it up to a TV and see the video in its full resolution.

What else does the 5D Mark III lack with regard to video?

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In addition....

It doesn't have zebras to show exposure blow out.

It doesn't have focus peaking while actually filming.

It doesn't have a 1.6x crop mode for more reach (and probably greater sharpness since it would be closer to native AA filter scale and not need much AA done in post) and could get this using the 2x2 method the C300 uses.

It seems a bit low in detail although perhaps it is because the AA filter is designed for stills but the video comes from 3x3 blocks and so they maybe need to soften it a bit to reduce aliasing (the crop mode mentioned above coming from smaller blocks might be able to be sharper will still maintaining the natural lack of aliasing and moire in addition to adding more reach for say wildlife or macros).

I've heard it still uses a super low quality (even by cheap consumer good standards) audio AMP, although I haven't really heard anything 100% solid on this.

The first part could 100% for sure be fixed with new firmware and the next two probably could. The last one obviously could not. The one you mentioned probably could if it is true that it already output it just with display info overlayed (I mean just turn that stuff off then.).

Oh, a bit more control over codec wouldn't hurt, more bitrate options and CBR vs VBR for all-i. Maybe a slightly better compressor chip or tune it in firmware to not drop low contrast or shadow fine details as easily and not block them out in unnatural video looking ways.

Judging from the micro IQ difference between M2 and M3, the t4i isn't going to change much. It will even have the same AF with 1/2 stop iso improvement. iq will be the same at low Iso. Heck low ISO iq has not changed since 450d.
Common canon!

Northstar said:

If your combo can be push / pulled even just a little bit, then you may have a problem.

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Do you mean literally pull and push the lens away from the camera?


Tried it on my 17-40 and a 85 1.2 that i burrowed, it seems that it only wiggles on the 70-200. :-\

Jettatore said:

Can anyone explain why they are releasing these two lenses side by side with such a close focal length between them, instead of a more dramatic one, at least for the first release. I would think there is some reason, but I can not figure it out.

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+1. The difference between 24 and 28 is moving the camera forward or back about 3 inches. (not an actual measurement, people on here are way too technical)

Someone told me the downloads I put above weren't working well. Alternate links below:

Color Extractor Script (Photoshop)
http://www.mediafire.com/?jww7dp5m8u303jb

Custom Split Script (Photoshop)
http://www.mediafire.com/?mee40136455tri3

Descriptions of what they do are several posts above in the links, and they both come with a simple instructions file. Hope you like them.

Here's a crazy idea, instead of spending that much on that lens, upgrade your 5d2 to a 1dx and get a canon 501.2 for about the same price? Or even better, a canon 85 1.2?

wickidwombat said:

I contacted kenko about the TC not working on my 5Dmk3
and their response is they dont have any problems
this is interesting and leads me further to believe that my camera has a problem
does anyone else have a 5D3 and kenko teleconverter or extension tubes to test and see if they are getting
AF infor thorough mine just displays 00 in the aperture location

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I have a Kenko 1.4x and 2x TC that both work with the Mark III.

Okay, while I don't know how they get this to show up on the rear LCD screen, I did find some helpful nuggets in this video--watched it a couple of times and figured some things out. Canon 5D Mark III Review: 61 Autofocus points

Of the two, I definitely prefer the 70-200 II for increased versatility when shooting portraits, compared to the 100L. If I'm going to restrict my versatility by using a prime lens, I will put on either the 135L or 85 L II.

yuxinhong said:

Thank you for the link,
i tried to find there contact and warranty department. but no success.

so.. is facebook the only way to contact them?

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it might take a few days ;o)

privatebydesign said:

wockawocka,

You are the first person I have seen with a 1Ds MkIII that has the 600's. What HSS speeds are you getting, the full 1/8000? With Canon and testers stats differing I have been unsure. Also, can you confirm you can either do ETTL OR Manual in group mode, but you can't mix manual in one group and ETTL in another like the 5D MkIII and 1Dx can?

Any other insights and why do you use six units? I have a need for five occasionally for interiors and having more than three groups would be a real plus for that, with five groups you could accent light as well as key light almost any room, that would save a lot of time in post.

Thanks for any feedback.

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Hi, I've only used them on the 5D3's, I have the 1Ds3 but will need to up date my sig really!

Hmm I highly doubt its the IS that is screwing you up.
Just by looking at your settings that you posted from your first pic I see a couple "mistakes". As stated earlier, the obvious one is your DOF at F4. From the angle you took the shot, obviously you were a couple feet away which leaves you with a way too narrow DOF, but you did hit the eyes anyway. Good for the eyes but bad for the rest of the dog's face because with your full frame the DOF is narrower. I would suggest again to using a higher f stop and standing farther away t give yourself more leeway to really check the sharpness.
*You cant really check sharpness of a lens or camera very well if you work with such a narrow DOF.

Next, if you still want to check on your dog I would increase your shutter speed. 125 may be the minimum to stop a dog with ADD as you put it. I would put it at a minimum of 200-250 (at least), honestly I would put it even faster if there was enough light.

If you need to raise your shutter speed, and enlarge your DOF then you will need more light obviously or raise your ISO, so mynext suggestion would be to take your pics outside in daylight where you have an abundance of light and dont need to work within the confines of such narrow parameters.

Finally you need to work on familiarizing yourself with the new AF system. Depending on your dogs movements or lack of you have to get used to what AF setting is best. This is a whole nother can of worms. If you can get him to sit still then obviously one shot focus with one spot focal point on the eye. But if not then its obviously AI servo (I recommend back button focussing) with either AF area or AF surround and picking the right AF case in the menu depending on what type of movement your dog is engaged in.

But if you really want to check sharpness - just check it on a stationary object for now lol. Learning the AF on the mark iii does take a little while and you introduce too many variables if you want to check your camera.
But from your pics my guess is that its more you than the mark iii haha.
I also highly doubt its the IS - just go outdoors and practice there a bit first. It sounds like alot of your shots are indoors and shooing at a low ISO indoors does not give you alot of room for error and requires a very steady hand and good technique.
If you do plan to shoot indoors for architecture work and dont have the time to set up a tripod I like to lean or brace my body against a wall or doorframe to stabilize myself and practice tucking in my arms into my body to create a very stable non shaking base while I take the picture. I also practce my breathing and time my shots so that I depress the shutter when I am moving the least possible amount. Think of a sniper

stevenrrmanir said:

as akways, we get half-assed "upgrades" from Canon - why can't we have less camera bodies with real upgrades?

have a xxxD for the newbies, combine the 7D with the 60D into one solid xxD class, then have the 5D, followed by their xD? even these 5 classes are too many IMO

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The 5D III sells for $3,500 - that's way above most hobbyists budget. I guess a solid xxD would not sell for more than $2,000, which opens a pretty big gap between xxD and 5D III and the other issue would be the gap to the xxxD, which will be around $700 (i.e. a lot of room for a 70D below a 7D II). I like that there is the 60D between the xxxD and the 7D.
Why not have the 7D II with a 22-24 MP APS-C sensor for sports, bird and wildlife photographers (with Digic V+ this should still have 8fps). The 70D with a 16 MP sensor for better high ISO noise and perhaps more DR. And the 700D with the old 18 MP sensor, but improved AF.

I have found the 600 ex-rt's work great with 5D3's. I bought 3 of them and sold my Pocket Wizards. Having the radio built in works much better for me at weddings.

well_dunno said:

It is now rumored that " the upcoming next Sony full frame cameras “main feature” will be the low price. "

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sr4-sony-wants-to-price-the-a99-as-low-as-possible/

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Well, there's a feature Canon could duplicate any time. Won't, but could.

It would be nice to see a big mpx camera soon with improved sensor quality at reasonable price as Nikon did. I had a couple of clients who asked for life size portrait. I am not getting anymore canon gear and will wait for a year or so and see what canon comes up with. If still canon dosent show any breakthrough then it is time to move on.

I believe the metering is completely different during live view. My theory is it could be 1 of a couple things

1. It is possible you are getting better isolation from light leaks in Live view since the mirror is locked up, so the viewfinder/meter/LCD is completely blocked from the imaging sensor.

2. My other guess is since the iFCL meter requires the mirror to be down, Live View uses some sort of RGB metering based on the input from the imaging sensor instead, this could cause a discrepancy as well.

Just my two cents

prestonpalmer said:

pwp said:

With a 70-200 f/2.8isII in your kit straight away you'll probably take better wedding images. That usually means more business. You have only got to pick up ONE extra wedding and you've more than covered the upgrade cost of your lens. In the meantime you have an extra 12 months using a lens you always wanted and will inevitably love.

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+1 Exactly the truth.

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I have a 70-200 f/2.8L II and have to agree that it can take absolutely stunning photos. I brought it to our friends' wedding and got a photo of them smiling right after the ceremony, and IMO the photo looked much better than anything their wedding photographer captured that day... and I'm just a photo enthusiast, not a pro.

FWIW, I've messed around with the 70-200 f/4L and the blue color rendition seemed really off to me. I do like the weight savings though and am still considering getting one or the 70-300L for long hikes.

This topic has been moved to Software & Accessories.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=5879.0

Yes i saw the refurbished ones!!! But canon won't send to puerto Rico where I lve at right now.
Thanks guys! I can't wait for it! Jejeje

Thanks Brian, I like this story. My wife loves goats. Even before we were married (a good decade and a half ago), she wanted her own pet goat. I showed her your post and she appreciated it!