my long lost 10-22?! :O

If you want a bit of feedback- I'd suggest trying to lighten the green in the bushes behind her so you can see her belly! You basically have black on black and you lose the most important part of the shot. A flash a little behind her could have also been used as a rim light to separate her from background.

Other than that, she looks like a beautiful, glowing, happy mother-to-be, congrats!

I like the shots, and going for rich tones is nice too, but agree about the 'in shot' frames, they go against the composition and it gets distracting. And again the black frames on the edge are fine.

Shot of the two with the bird are good, but some light on their faces would help a lot, through diffused flash or a reflector to help them stand out a little more and get rid of most of the shadow on her face. Also, would add some more catch light in their eyes.

Yes for UV the B&W MRC is the best but the Hoya HMC are a good if not better(imho) and cheaper alternative check out this link>

http://www.lenstip.com/113.4-article-UV_filters_test_Description_of_the_results_and_summary.html

Out of the gate I guessed Plover but now agreeing with others it is Black-bellied more specifically "Adult-non Breeding" (Aug-Apr) Page 162 Sibley's Guide to Birds (spot on) and whatbird.com. I sometimes post to the whatbird.com forum. I usually get a positive ID (when in doubt) within 10 minutes or so. Loads of eager experts to help out with photo ID's.

sandymandy said:

My favorite kebab seller has such horrible photos of his products in the store. They are one some kind of overhead hanging thing so u can take a look what u wanna order. Theres even something in tinfoil that looks like it has been cut out in a reaaaally bad way with the magic wand. You can see the background color (mustard yellow) shine through.
Nevertheless his business runs very well 8)

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How about offering him to upgrade his food photos in exchange of some free kebabs and discount? It will be a good practice for you aside from that, you get discounts and freebies. If I know him, I'll certainly get into that opportunity.

neuroanatomist said:

DoF is affected by aperture (wider = shallower), focal length (longer = shallower), and subject distance (shorter = shallower). So...50mm f/2.8 at 8' may be fine for two people, but a shot framing just their heads at 85mm f/2.8 at 6' may be too shallow. There are online DoF calculators (google DoFmaster), iPhone apps, etc., to play around with. After a while, selecting the aperture that's just narrow enough for your subject(s) becomes intuitive.

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Ah! there you go- I knew wider aperture affected depth of field, didn't realize subject distance changed it. Explains why I have the problem more with close up "head shots" on my 50 1.4, then on full body shots.

I will check out DoFmaster for sure... thanks for all your help!

smon222 said:

The price difference is huge, but I wanted to know if im not using a 4k camera and I don't need the extra cinema features. Is the picture quality at 1920 that much better to justify the price over L lenses, such as 50mm 1.2, 35mm 1.4, 85 1.2, 135 2.0 etc.?

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In a word... No.

They're designed mainly for production companies who'll spend serious money on C500s/C300s and will be using them for features and tv drama series. They really aren't made for run and gun budget shooters with DSLRs

http://www.extremeinstability.com/topic-14-21-50-lenses.htm

This isn't exactly a review or worthy of that title. Basically I recently went back to full frame and wound up with a Samyang 14mm, Zeiss 21 and Sigma 50 for new lenses for it. Before I settled there I had a 24L II and Canon 50 F1.4, and earlier in the year had a 14L II rented on a 5D III. I decided to make a page on my site noting a few things and reasoning on ending up where I did. Take from it what you will. Basically compared sharpness of the 1.4 and 1.8 Canon 50s to the Sigma 1.4. Then noted sharpness, vignetting and distortion on the Samyang and Zeiss.

I couldn't be happier with the Samyang 14 or the Zeiss(no duh on that one I guess). In the end I wish I had kept the Canon 50 F1.4. Sigma is sharper wide open but Canon quickly passes it even by F2.8. The Canon 24L II was great and sharp, but full frame coma was so bad beyond F2.8 it was sorta a lost cause opting for it for a fast night lens. Zeiss was wider like I wanted and no coma.

Most of the examples are gif animations too, for stopping down comparisons of sharpness, vignetting and distortion before and after fix.

It was never planned to do a review at all. Only later on with new different lenses I'd try and frame it like I had testing the others before.

Anyway, I now have these if something else was wanted done. Really just need to get the Samyang 14 out for night stars yet. The amount of vignetting at F2.8 I really haven't planned on using it much for that anyway.

miah said:

Here's a fantastic gallery called Dreamy Images Reveal Beauty in Physics:

http://news.yahoo.com/dreamy-images-reveal-beauty-physics-185551932.html

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Cool! Thanks! 8)

Davephoto said:

I want to make portraits, catch the atmosphere of the festival.

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Think about your final resolution export size and the min. iq you can get away with, then determine a max iso you can use (you should have time for that...) so that nr doesn't waste your shots. Of course the max nr depends on the detail of the scene, but at least you should have an idea. Still, a noisier shot is better than a blurred one... but you should be ok, I even shots demonstrations at night with fast movement with my 60d & 50/1.8 @iso6400, but of course @1:1 pixel level the noise was very bad.

Thanks Neuro and Spokane - this would be a lens I would keep forever, but it's not a discounted price.
It would be in my mind, even If I barely can see it with a loupe :-\

Thanks

Anyone order the bundle using the special price? Or Amazon canceled your order and says it is a price mistake? Just curious since the good price appears time frame is pretty strange. Thanks.

Argonaut said:

Thank you for the quick replies!

Can you do 1&2 above using just one C function and a registered function?

I already have a couple different C functions (static vs BIF) and was seeking to add some quick flexibility to them vs adding more...besides we can have only 3 ...

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I don't think so...

Depending on how frequently you need different settings, you can expand your reportoire. I have 'groups' of C# settings - a C1-C3 set for people, another set for outdoors/wildlife, a set for HDR, etc. I save all the groups to an old 2 GB card that I keep in the pocket of my Blackrapid strap, and load them from the card depending on what I'm going to be shooting that day.

I posted some images showing the quality achieved using this combination several months ago on a previous thread.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=4977.msg110430#msg110430

My pictures are on the middle of page 3 of the thread

I wonder if we'll see a new Canon 50/1.4 (with IS?) before we see a new Sigma 50/1.4. Either way, I'd be happy. If Canon does as good a job as they've done with their other updated non-L primes, I'd be happy.

i am into macro photography but i wouldnt mind trying it...
i came across the following product:
http://www.aputure.com/en/product/macro_tube_set_en.php

did anyone try it please, any reviews also?

these are its main features:
1. Perfect for macro shooting
2. Supports accurate TTL & Autofocus
3. Compatible with all EF and EF-S Canon lenses
4. Strong, sturdy, durable

Thanks! I see that B&H has the little hand-held ones.

scrappydog said:

A couple more tips: if you don't have a level in your camera, bring a bubble level and shoot level. Also, if you do a shift pano (which is very cool value-add to the lens) and use Photoshop, use Photomerge because it saves time.

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I'd also like to recommend the open source pano stitcher (and other uses)...Hugin:

http://hugin.sourceforge.net

I've just started using it, learning from watching tutorials on their site and youtube...but early results have been quite good.

HTH,

cayenne

I have the 600 IS II and it fits very nice into a Lowepro Flipside AW500 and that´s a good Backpack.
Fits in every normal plane, even the small ones flying between Fiji Islands. Airlines have more Problems with 7 KG limit. Camera is not attched to fit it in the bag. I´m looking to get the 300 IS 3.8 soon too. I only bought the 600 first. Would do it again every time, you won´t regret it Version 1 or 2 doesn´t matter.

Could be anything

sandymandy said:

6D comes with software

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Yes of course, good point. I figured they would have an update available already via DPP that I already have. I forgot that I could just use the CD that comes with it. I much prefer getting software via the internet and not a CD!

7d!
you get to keep your 17-85, you get a little bit more reach with that (24-105 equivalent). So then you get all the nice things like focus, and af for things like the oars and cat you shot. I'm sorry to say that you don't have the gear to move up to ff, and other than portraits, it may not benefit you.
Moving up on cameras is all about what you shoot, if you work well on crop, than keep it, if your hindered by it, go to ff. the 5d ii is descent, so don't worry even if you buy one, I shoot with a rebel and I've used the 5dii before. They both have 9af points, and the 5d ii actually has 1+ fps! So if you don't do that much action, get the 5d ii, you'd just have to sell your 17-85, and buy a sigma 24-70, which is decent for the price or the tamron 28-75, both are decently priced used. Sigma for the compactness, or the tamron for the sharpness.

But it really is up to you, if you feel comfortable, with what you use, and all you want is better iso! The 7d would work better, without you having to learn how to go about using ff. but if you like learning, and you about photography in a lazy faire fashion, then get the 5d ii and a new lens, it would work nice for what your doing as an enthusiast, that is what the 6d is designed for, while the 7d is the pro-flagship aps-c body for action and wildlife shooters.
So really the 5d would work for you, you just have to fork in a bit more $$$.

But thats only when it comes to the two.

I'd honestly suggest a 60d/50d, the get better ISo, have better fps, and the 60d has video. The low price could give you some money to put towards a 70-200 f4 (great iq) and a 17-40, with you 50 filling the gap, at that point ff, would be good. Because right now, your used to the crop dslrs, and you should just ease into it, jumping into it can screw you sometimes.

T4i was taking some shots in the living room, and the lcd screen just went dead...no playback, no info, nothing.....had to do a battery pull to get it back. Battery charge is ok. I wasn't blocking the face sensor in back. Anyone hear of this?



Overall, first 24 hours w/T4i + 18-135 IS STM very impressed, coming off a 60D and Xsi.

Pro's: Lens - Build much stronger than I expected. Fast focusing, really dead quiet(on stills)
Cons: Heavier than I expected(0f course, built is more like the 15-85 than the 18-55)
haven't test IQ yet

Body:
Pros
Live view very improved over 60D. very easy to focus in ordinary room light using live view,
Like touch screen a lot, but not a game changer.
Shutter sound seems quieter than 60D
Small, light
Seems to focus faster in normal AF modes than 60D
Frame rate not bad for rebel
Big fat ISO button on top...never liked the D series small, indistinguishable buttons.

Cons: 4 way control buttons harder to push than on xsi...smaller, more indented.
I can't believe they can't give you more ISO options, how much would that cost? You go from 800 to 1600 w/nothing in between like on past Rebel series.

Battery/Charger. Don' like the two piece chord/charger set up vs having plug directly on charger.
Battery hard to get in and out of charger, almost like an off-brand battery I once bought.