Your thoughtful answers align with my suspicions. Thanks for the news I didn't want to hear, guys...

Hillsilly, I still own two, rack-mounted film slide projectors that I used to wow people back in the day with one image "dissolving" into the next. The quality of the projected images was stunning, as you say. But with digital, people have since grown accustomed to fancy transitions and too, demand a level of photo quality that's at least equal to what they're used to seeing on their various LCD screens. This is where digital projection falls to pieces, as Brand B pointed out.

I guess I was just hoping that I had missed something. That there was some secret sauce, in addition to insuring the presentation room is pitch black, to getting the projected images to maintain good color, sharpness, contrast, etc. But it sounds like a new body and/or lenses won't materially improve on what the projector destroys.

Regarding my choice of lenses, Tron, I've actually been quite happy with my 70-300 DO lens. I think it gets a bad rap, although it took me a while to figure out how to improve its results: don't ever use a UV filter; always attach the hood; use a tripod when possible; never shoot wide open. All 3 of these lenses are small and relatively lightweight with decent build quality. In fact, when I'm on my smaller bike, I leave the 10-22 at home and go with only the 15-85 and 70-300 to shave off even more weight/bulk.

Anyway, it's too late and not practical to start shooting slide film, again. I have thousands upon thousands of digital shots from all around the world that I need to sift through and prepare for my presentations, even as I continue to shoot more. As I do so, I'm often disappointed by my Rebel's rudimentary focus system (it's inability to lock on a subject fast enough before the moment passes) and an abundance of noise above ISO 400. If I could fix these two issues, and keep my kit just as small and light, I'd be a happy camper.

No, the only thing you are saving is the mirror flapping. The shutter still cycles after every shot.

verysimplejason said:

Just noticed now... Why is it your focus is better and a lot sharper when the model doesn't wear anything except paint?

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The zoom lens got excited ;D

Focal Pro detected my 5D3 running Mac beta 1.7.0.224 - after I rummaged for a decent, long USB cable. I previously calibrated all of my lenses using the latest non-beta Windows version. But, I thought it'd be interesting to compare against the automated results from the OS X version, but apparently that feature is not yet available regardless of platform.

The OS X beta did crash frequently in my usage yesterday, so I will revert to the last release version until those issues are resolved. By contrast, the last Windows release version crashed only once, when I attempted to generate a report.

Good u posted the solution! It might help other people with the same problem. Nothing is worse when people write on a forum only "Ok fixed it bye" :

ronderick said:

Having the latest technology is great. But is there anything wrong with the 5D2 and 1D4? If not, might as well save up the money and wait for the next generation of bodies. The ones you have still hold their ground at this point in time.

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This so much. I mean, do as you please, but it seems a little extreme. Rolling with 1Ds III and 1D IV and two 550D's for studio work that goes online (them little things weigh nothing and have a million shots between them and they cost nothing, also the files are small and faster to process). But if it's just for a laugh you might as well get the best

hsmoscout said:

Maybe it'll be a DO lens???

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Don't say bad words!

Thanks a ton!

Why there is CA on the branches on the first photo? I've never had 16-35 - is it how it behaves or there is some special artistic reason for it?

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- sorry for the delay here. I think it has to do with a)HDR - my originals were a hurry and run shot as I was illegally parked & without tripod and b) applying the unsharp mask +1 in DPP though quite frankly I'm unable to notice it.

Here's another contribution to the thread:


Manasquan Reservoir by Revup67, on Flickr

Are you sure it was the GPE1?
If your lens was set to Mode 2 IS (ie, panning in one direction only), then the IS would get confused as it doesn't know which way is up if it's at 45 degrees...

I have these now:

Canon 24mm f/1.4L II USM
Canon 50mm f/1.2L USM
Canon 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM

Future might include a Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM and maybe one more Canon prime, but a 5D Mark III will come first.

This is really good!

7D "driving me nuts" -- more to it!!!!

So, the 7D is fine.

This is what I have found out, and I'd have not guessed this in a million years.

IF I pull the CF card, or IF I power down, and I DON'T use the 28mm/1.8, the 50/1.4 and 100/2.8USM are fine, as also are the slower zooms.

BUT

IF I mount the 28/1.8 it works like crap, and if I mount the 50/1.4 or 100/2.8USM after that without powering down or pulling the card (which powers down), the 28/1.8 sours the focus system for the other lenses, throwing their "linearity" from close to far, all to hell.

So.. .how in the heck am I gonna explain, and convince Canon about THAT problem....

I tested this on my 5DmkII, and the same thing happens. Its a poison lens.... that 28/1.8.

Funny it worked GREAT on my 400D

I gotta think on this a bit... may be better to just get a new lens.

nebugeater said:

If the steelers wear the uniforms they did today you would probably be better off not getting photos!

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I thought it was the Pittsburgh Bumble Bees playing today. So what year were those vintage uniforms from anyway?

Canon *will* change something with the 6D...the price...soon after release.

Here in (hot) Arizona, a few zoos wisely decided to start opening at night on select days during the summer. The famous San Diego Zoo also does this. And Singapore Zoo opened a separate night only wildlife park called Night Safari. I will kick things off, but I would love to see some other photos taken at zoos and wildlife parks during evening hours. On two of these (porcupine and screamer/capybara) I used a small LED pocket flashlight to highlight the animals. All with 5D2.

Porcupine at Arizona Sonora Desert Museum (Tucson, Arizona)
Mountain Lion at San Diego Zoo (San Diego, California)
Grevy Zebra at Phoenix Zoo (Phoenix, Arizona)
Crested Screamer and Capybara at Reid Park Zoo (Tucson, Arizona)

vuilang said:

shoot tight: head & shoulder (use 70-200).. use couple angle from top down (get a ladder).

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Agree.

Camera angle is important; make sure the camera is a few inches above her nose, nostrils are not attractive and this makes your subject look up at the lens, which is more appealing. This type of angle will also help thin out their face slightly.

As a gun nut, I had never thought of mounting a red dot to a DSLR, but that sounds like a very cool and pragmatic thing on a big telephoto. Good suggestion.

Yeah, it's tricky.
November and December are really busy and renting is expensive.

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to call the Canon-Approved repair shop in the morning to see what they think.
A shame there isn't some quick fix.

Louis --

You get a neck strap, couple end-caps and other fribbles, Canon's Big Book of Lens Porn and (most usefully) significant discounts and turnaround improvements for equipment repairs. At one level (Gold? Platinum?) you also become eligible to try a piece of kit before you buy, sort of like a free rental but without the control.

DB said:

I have the Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod + the rubber/spikes optional feet + 701HDV fluid video head and they work great with my gripped 7D, plus I shoot mostly video too. I paid roughly $150 for the tripod legs + $30 for the Spikes + $120 for the fluid head, so approx $300 in total (except I purchased in the UK for < £200).

I'd highly recommend the fluid video head for 2 reasons: (1) great for panning up/down or left/right really slowly and smoothly for HD video work (and I mean S-L-O-W-L-Y), plus (2) the video head is great for still photography too (if you want to shoot portrait - then use the 90-degree shift in the 055XPROB stem instead) - just as good as a ball-head.

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Ditto this. If you're doing video, you absolutely DO NOT want a ball head. Ball heads are great for photography, but for video they're useless unless you never want the camera to move. Get a decent fluid head like the 701HDV and you'll never be sorry.

Thanks for the opinions. Money still safely in pocket.

During my last trip to Scotland, I was lucky enough to see the Northern Lights. They weren't as bright as in Norway last year, but for so far south, it was a good viewing. I then had to try my hand at some astrophotography of the Milky Way. Not perfect by any means, but probably the best I could get with standard equipment.


Scottish Aurora by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Aurora Frame by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

The Milky Way by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Alextian said:

Wow Glencoe I've been there for many times of ski and shooting when I stay in glasgow. really wanna back there again. miss glencoe so much.

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It's certainly a place worth going back to.

Vulture