Camera insurance for Canadians (Travel)

Imagination_landB said:
I can't find any company with more than 500$ insurance on camera(electronic) stuff around the globe (I will travel to Europe) (theft,loss etc ).. I'm kind of worried about this because I will bring for about 6000$ in gear . Is there someone who can help me with this? Thank you
I'm from Quebec, Canada so I don't think a USA insurance can cover me..

Household insurance (on property and contents) does include coverage of items carried for use out of the country. However, there are limits as to the value per item and total coverage( in my case not exceeding Cad2k per item and up to 5K for total coverage). I am pretty sure about it cos it's part of my statefarm household policy. Please consult your insurance agent.
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History Lesson: Canon FDn 1200 f/5.6L 1.4x Lens Images

TexPhoto said:
Doing some Google searching I found that another company (rhymes with Flycon) has/had a similar lens. The explanation of why the lens was made is interesting.

http://www.nikon.com/about/feelnikon/recollections/r16_e/index.htm

Very interesting. And I love how they don't ever once give the name of the competitor :)

toddbuchanan said:
Olympics and Pulitzers: I thought I would pass along my experience with Canon 1200/5.6 from the 84' Olympics which led to a great shot and part of a Pulitzer prize.

I was working at the Orange County Register in SoCal and was assigned to cover the 100K Cycling race in Mission Viejo. To get the shot I wanted, I would have to camp out over night in the backyard of local that looked straight down at the finish line but I was going to need a monster of a lens and when I heard about the Canon 1200, I knew it would do the trick. I camped out the night before and as the race unfolded the next day it came down to a sprint to the finish between the Canadian and Alex Grewal of the US and was literally so close at the finish line that there was no jubilation until about 50 yards past the finish line. It was perfect from my vantage point and a nightmare for the pool photographers who were getting his rear-end since the Olypic Pool position was right at the finish line!

Then it was topped off when the next year, the Register was selected for a Pulitzer prize for our Olympic Photo coverage and that images was part of the entry.

I had other occasions to use the lens for other sports events, but in SoCal, you had to be careful using it on a hot day at ground level as it would pick up so much of the heat waves coming of the ground, that it would compormise your focus....They are a pretty amazing piece of glass and a fond memory for me!

Todd Buchanan
www.toddbuchanan.com

Photo: Mission Viejo, CA- Los Angeles Olympics 1984 Alexi Grewal wins the Gold medal in the 100 Kilometer bicycle road race to win for the United States team.

Awesome story. That's really awesome, and a great shot. I guess that's just what you have to do to get the shot you want, camp out where you need to be and bring a BIG lens :)
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Canon EOS 6D Service Advisory

Botts said:
It may also however, encourage a company to release crippled software knowing that they can charge for the "features" a month or two later.

The base functionality has to be there, and Canon is in the habit of delivering just that anyway.

The main blocking issue for more firmware innovation probably is a) a conservative company policy and b) the pro userbase that won't forgive buggy firmware beyond what is "normal" now just after release - and since Canon uses basically the same firmware for all models (that's why Magic Lantern is easily ported) there are less innovations even for enthusiast/amateur models.
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Skiing picture advice

Try to avoid falling ;D

But seriously, consider bringing along a tough camera if you have one, for your real "action shots" i.e. if skiing backwards while videoing a colleague on a tough slope. I use a Panasonic TS3 or a GoPro.

Also remember your extra batteries! And keep these next to your body or as close as possible.

And one thing I can't recommend enough, bring good gloves.
Get either a pair that has round elastics that go over your jacket arms so that you can easily rip off a glove to shoot with and have it remained tethered to your arm, or even better a pair of "shooting gloves" either for hunting or photography that have at least a flap to uncover your shutter finger, or better both flaps to uncover your thumbs and pointer fingers.
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6D hands-on reviews by many websites..

M.ST said:
Professional Sports/journalism/wildlife: 1D X
Professional Studio/portrait/landscape: 1Ds Mark III
Professional Weddings/multipurpose camera: 5D Mark III
Amateur Sports/wildlife or for a Pro instead of a TC: 7D
Amateur Portrait/Landscape: 6D

If you want to lock the focus in extreme low light:
1. choice: 1D X
2. choice: 5D Mark III
3. 6D.


The 1D X and 5D Mark III can lock the focus in low light while the 6D is giving up.


what i don't get is why in this breakdown you list the 6d as only for amateur portrait/landscape but also list it as one of the 3 bodies to get to lock focus in extreme low light? Wouldn't that mean the 6d is also a very capable wedding photographer camera? From what I see now, the only reason the 6d may not be a 'pro' body as you say is durability, and on that note, no one can really answer that just yet. People who are buying one right now may have a better response on that issue next year around this time.

Also, didn't that reuters best of 2012 list tell the story as for journalism? the most used camera was the 5d2 (and from what i saw, it was a 5d2 +16-35mm combo). I'd say that trend will continue, in 2013 that list will most likely still have a bunch of 5d2's, but it will also have 6d's and 5d3's (and it's doubtful the 1dx will be in that list) For sure the 1dx will win for sports shooting due to the better AF tracking and higher fps, but for the cost I'd say bodies in the 2-3.5k range will dominate because they offer more than enough features at a reasonable price point.

Said it before and say it again, sometimes I think we apply the word 'pro' to a product only due to price (many argue that the 5d2 isn't actually a pro body!)
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Somerset Levels in Flood

aviorpictures said:
i love the 2nd picture. the new spillway. ;)
Thanks, that was my favourite of the shoot too. It's hard to believe it's actually a road and even more unbelievable that we saw people trying to drive through it. The Transit vans and Land Rovers made it, but the car we saw didn't, judging by the recovery truck I saw in the distance with my binoculars.
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Request advice on weather-sealed 35 mm lenses

weather-sealed 35 mm lenses

Short answer: there aren't any. Neither the Canon nor the Sigma are sealed lenses. If you require a sealed lens at 35mm, you need to look at a zoom (16-35 II, 24-70 I or II) but then you're going to f/2.8.

Optically, the new Sigma 35/1.4 is better than the Canon 35L.
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Canon EOS 650D sometimes not shutting down

My Canon EOS 650D (T4i) with 18-135 mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS STM lens, a few months old, sometimes does not shut down - approximately once in 500 switchings off. The camera continues to show on the LCD screen what was there before the shutting down attempt. In the picture, look at the position of the video-on-off switch and at the LCD screen - the screen should show nothing.

In this mode, camera does not respond to controls. The way around is to pull out the battery. And it looks like in this mode the battery power is consumed at a high rate.

Does anybody know whether a firmware update is coming? There is none on Canon's web site.

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50mm macro vs. 60mm macro on aps-c body

Sell your 60mm and get the 100mm F2.8 macro USM non-L (much better than 60mm and 50mm macro lenses). This lens will fit both your APS-C and FF bodies. You'll be able to get this lens at almost half of the price of the L version and IQ is pretty much the same. If you want some samples, you can go to my flickr account. My pictures might fail to give justice on how marvelous this lens is but it will give you at least some idea of what I'm saying. I'm currently using Canon 500D body and the 100mm macro non-L lens. And don't worry, it's also an excellent portrait lens. I forgot, 60mm and 100mm price difference is only around $100. ;)

Just some of my favorites from my collection...

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24-105 or 24-70 for weddings, events, travelling (priority in that order)

Without taking money into account, I would say the 24-70 II without a doubt, every single time. I primarily shoot weddings, and unlike the other photographer who says he rarely shoots @ 2.8 (Not saying he is wrong, just a different shooting style) I find the need to shoot wide open quite often. Not during the formal portraits, of course, but during the ceremony an extra stop would be amazing.

I say this as a current owner of the 24-105L, and I personally avoid it like the plague during the ceremony. I stick to the 70-200 2.8L IS II or primes, as I am not satisfied with the sharpness or the aperture of the 24-105. The 24-105 is a fine lens in its own right, as it is cheap, constant aperture, built better than the 28-135, features IS, and it a great walk around lens with satifactory (Not great) image quality, but if given the choice, I would go with the 24-70L II.
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5D MARK III lens recommendation

vmk said:
Thanks...
Bought following...
70-200 f/2.8L, 16-32 f/2.8L II, 100 f/2.8L Macro

need suggestion for extenders... should i go for "2x extender iii" to gain extra zoom for my 70-200 f/2.8L
or is it better to go for 100-400???

Great start for what you want to do. The 100L doubles as an excellent portrait lens. You might want to consider the 1.4x iii instead of the 2x iii as the 1.4x iii is a bit sharper. Might also consider a faster portrait lens at some point (e.g., 50mm L, 85mm L, or Sigma 85mm 1.4).
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Thoughts on the New EOS-1D X Firmware 1.1.1

What exactly was Firmware 1.1.1 supposed to solve?

I have picked up two 1DX bodies on Friday 8 December, numbers 053011002582 and 63012000973.

Upgraded both to Firmware 1.1.1

Went out to do BIF early on Saturday morning using a 400 2.8 Series II lens with a Series III 1.4 extender.
Body 053011002582 freezes solid and gives Error 80, have to remove battery to recover.

Later in the day body 63012000973 freezes solid when used with the 85mm 1.2 lens. Recovers when switched off, occasionally gives extreme overexposure with the 85 mm 1.2.

Let’s face it, on those occasions that the AF actually works, it is an amazing camera! Sharp BIF captures are reduced to merely selecting the proper focus option, pointing in the general direction of the bird and pressing the shutter button. High ISO allows high speeds that takes care of movement, a real pleasure to shoot, but only if it works.

I am not part of a Beta testing program, and I buy my own gear privately, so it is totally unacceptable to get reduced to a spectator with Canon gear in excess of 17000 dollars when the camera fails.
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Help with lighting setups for portraits...

Viggo said:
I just bought myself the Elinchrom Quadra Ranger RX with A-head (short flash duration to freeze action) As a modifier went with the Deep Octa 70cm, which has two diffusers and a deflector, can be used with lots of options.

It has a built in Skyport radio receiver and with the optional (must have) Transmitter, you can control power from the camera, which to me is ESSENTIAL, turn it off, set the exposure for background, flick it on and adjust power of the flash with two hardware buttons, up/down. Absolutely awesome.

I've done the strobist-way for years, and it is very fiddely, lacking in power and quality of light and I HATE umbrella-boxes that break for nothing. I still use Photiix Odin triggered speedlites for some things, and also as an additonal light to the Quadra, as I currently have only the one head.

You can save yourself some money by getting the Quadra right away, instead of triggers, two 580's (which you need outside) battery packs, clamps and other mounts, a few soft boxes (as they usually break).

The Quadras are 2 2/3 stops more powerful in a softbox than the 580 ex. I have shot with the Octa at 1m from me at F22 and had enough power, the backrgound, which was a white winter sun , mid day, looked like the late evening!

Add fantastic built, incredibly consistent colortemp and light-output, ready-beep, model-light and you have a seriously great set up where the lamp is actually smaller and lighter than a normal speedlite and at 400Ws!

+1 you get portability and power with this set up.

You could also do PCB Einsteins with vagabond mini lithium's at a decent price.
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Two Lenses to be Announced Shortly.....

i end up buying another 50mm

canon 50 1.4 at amazon for $299

Portrait_Moments_Photogra said:
dr croubie said:
gmrza said:
With a lens like that, I could see a lot of happy owners of the current 50 f/1.4 being prepared to buy a new lens.

I've already got the EF 50/1.8, Takumars 50/1.4 & 55/1.8 & 55/2.0, FL 55/1.2, Zeiss 50/4.0 (x3), OM 50/3.5 macro, and just recently a Schneider Retina 50/2.8 (in the post).

And with all of them, even I'd be interested in an EF 50/1.4 IS. You can never have too many fifties...

so what would be your fave 50mm Croubie -

i just sold my sigma 50, coming from a 50L and the 50 1.8
i missed my 50's and I'm looking into buying another 50mm again
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5DMkIII: Finding your focus square(s) in low light....Solution works for me.

Frame in the general area, press the focus square selection button (focus squares are bright and easy to see), move the desired focus square over the point you want to focus, press the shutter button halfway and the bright focus squares dissapear and you now achieve focus and metering - take picture.

I have only tried this in manual with flash attached and turned on.

Hope this works for others that were having the same problem as me. I just could not find my selected focus square (usually center spot) as they were very dim and only remained on for a split second, lock focus and then shoot. I hope Canon will give us a fix for this in the April firmware update. I never had this problem with my 7D.

Let me know if anyone else has any other ideas. Thanks

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