Posts

BRNexus6 · Nov 12, 2012

What is the point of a expensive 24-70mm F/4 IS when there is already an excellent 24-105mm F4 IS that can be found used at a great price? Canon is thinking backwards.

Daniel Flather · Nov 12, 2012

Yes, that's normal. My 50D clicked when you took the pic, the 5D3 does not. The 5 and 1 series are the same, that's how it makes you feel like a pro; you're only one camera away from the top, like the vice-president.

wickidwombat · Nov 12, 2012

Sheesh give the guy a break guys I had no intention of starting a sharpness witch hunt it was merely an observation perhaps some AFMA might help. Cute subjects though

untitled10 · Nov 12, 2012

Lock up the mirror and use the blow cleaner again.

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 12, 2012

I did not see any images that I thought would tax the autofocus of any Canon or even a third party lens.

If a photographer is capturing a series of photos of a subject rapidly moving toward him and needs them all to be in focus so he can catch a critical moment, thats where excellent and fast focus makes a difference. Then, its a combination of body and lens that makes a difference. For example, 1 series bodies use more voltage to drive the focus motor faster than say a 5D MK III can. They have a 12volt battery versus 7.2 which is a huge difference.

Using one shot AF, try focusing on something close, then point the camera at a distant object and press the shutter fully. The camera will take the image when the lens is focused. Compare that with a 85mm f/1.8. You will see a huge difference in the time it takes to focus.

However, its only that one initial focus that takes the long time. Subsequent shots that are more or less at the same distance, focus will be fast. Thats why its not a problem in actual use.

Nov 12, 2012

If its working on the one body then it should work on the second without an issue, as long as the contacts in the hotshoe are touching the contacts on the transmitter it will work.

Again you can call me if you want to walk through it.

Colin

Nov 12, 2012

I dont believe DPP overwrites the originals unless you tell it to. When you make changes to the image, it saves the changes in a sidecar file and just applies them to the original. You can revert back to the shot settings. Just load the image and under adjustments on the menu bar there is an option for that.

DPP corrections are not the same as in camera corrections. They attempt to achieve the same function but I am told they are different. DPP is supposed to be better. I assume that is due to the limited resources available in camera.

tron said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:

tron said:

bkorcel said:

Raw is raw...no corrections or in camera adjustments will be made even though you have the settings configured in your camera. All Raw adjustments must be done in post processing.

Configured corrections will be applied ONLY to JPG files.

Note, that in some bodies, the corrections will affect the drive mode buffer by reducing number of shots that can be taken in sequence. This is due to the extra processing required to make the corrections. Also note that once the corrections are made to a JPG, they cannot be undone.

Most bodies support creating a corrected JPG from a RAW image in camera so you can have both.

tron said:

Distortion correction is not supported in camera. The other corrections do exist.
Now I have enabled both features. However, unless I activate the lens correction in Camera Raw (which contains the lens profile) I do not see these corrections.
So I am cannot tell if something is happening in the Camera ! I have a question here

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THANKS! It seems I have missed the obvious! (plus I usually shoot only raw so there was no hope that I would see these corrections).

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You can make them in DPP, but do it sparingly, since the size of the corrected cr2 image file will be approximately 2X - 3X the size of the uncorrected one.

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I have seen some similar settings in DPP. But I guess these are irrelevant of the Camera settings. They more likely seem like Adobe's Camera Raw lens corrections.
I am hesitant to use DPP since it seems to overwrite the original .CR2 files (Didn't want to save my experimental changes on DPP). I always wanted to check on that but didn't really need it since I used Camera Raw. You just confirmed this and I THANKYOU for that. I will keep using CR that does not change the original but uses xml files to save the settings.

RLPhoto · Nov 12, 2012

AdamJ said:
One UK online retailer has come out early with a price on the Sigma 35mm, of £599. For comparison, that is slightly less than the Sigma 85mm f/1.4.

http://www.microglobe.co.uk/sigma-35mm-f14-dg-hsm-lens-for-canon-p-9455.html

I like the Price. If its any good, I will Buy one ASAP. I tend not to buy first gen products immediately.

Sameer Thawani · Nov 12, 2012

Canon Rumors said:
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<strong>A new EOS 7D Mark II mention

</strong>A new EOS 7D Mark II is rumored to be announced some time in January, 2013. The camera would take the place of the 7D and 60D.</p>
<p>Specs are minimal, as should be expected. However, it should have a 20+ megapixel sensor and the ability to shoot 10fps. The frame rate is a “targeted spec” for the camera.</p>
<p>I think we’ll see the APS-C market slow down a bit, [size=12pt]now that the D600 and EOS 6D are changing the pricing structure for consumer camera bodies[/size].</p>
<p>Source: [<a href=\"http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/cameras/Canon_7dmk2.html\" target=\"_blank\">NL</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">c</span>r</strong></p>

Potentially yes. But also we must bear in mind that the D600 is at the same price point as the D700 (never mind that the specs are a combination of inferior/superior to the D700) and the 6D sits at the original price point of the 5DMKII. When both of these were around, we still had the D300s & 7D. But I agree with you, I think they are pushing the full frame lines first - probably because the full frame lenses were are compelled to buy bring in a higher sales number.

Krob78 · Nov 12, 2012

Fantastic image Richard! Would have been worth it even if you had to get out of bed, run downstairs, half way down the block to get it! I love those Eagles, I hope I get to capture an image of one someday myself! Great job!

Nov 12, 2012

vlim said:
Remember, the 5D3 is not a 1DX !!

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You mean not fully weather sealed ?

The 5DIII is weather sealed. But the 1D X is better sealed. For example, the 5DIII relies on tight case joints and foam seals in places where the 1D X has rubber gaskets and O-rings, the 1D X has no mode dial (buttons are easier to seal), etc.

Zv · Nov 11, 2012

Hey there, I was just on Amazon.jp and noticed the 6D kit is now available for pre-order. see price list below (the USD prices are just a straight conversion to make it easier to see the difference and is not the price of the kit in the US) -

6D body only = ¥178,201 ($2,242)

6D + 24-70 f/4 IS = ¥328,997 ($4,139)

The 24-70 f/4 IS on it's own is ¥146,526 ($1,843) pre-order so the discount there is non-existent! In fact at the moment it's cheaper to buy them separately!

For comparison the 6D + 24-105 kit = ¥268,200 ($3,375)

And also the 5D mk II + 25-105 kit = ¥224,341 ($2,823)

Interesting.

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 11, 2012

JoeDavid said:
Ryan708 said:

If you manually clean the sensor for at least 30 seconds (just enable manual cleaning dont actually have to touch the sensor) it will detect and map out dead pixels. At least it does on my 60d. Im pretty sure this is done prior to getting a new camera, dead pixels are like dust- you will eventually have some no matter what

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I've never heard of this but it seemed to work with a 5DM3 that I have. It had what appeard to be a stuck red pixel that showed up from ISO 100-3200 (didn't try 50). It seemed to disappeared at 6400 but I have the high ISO noise reduction set to auto and I think that removed it. Anyway, I tried an Auto Cleaning cycle from the menu and then a manual cleaning cycle for 30 seconds. After turning the camera off and back on, no more hot pixel. I even looked at a RAW file in PS with all noise reduction turned off and it was gone. It may not work in all cases, but I'm glad I tried it because I'd been thinking about sending it in to Canon. All they would have done was map it out so I saved myself from being without the camera for a few days. Thanks Ryan708...

The process works to some extent, but not for the really bad ones that show up in a video. Fortunately, cases like that are rare, and Canon will fix them.
I checked my 5D MK III (both of them) and they were remarkably clean and free of hot pixels. Sensor manufacturing technology has definitely improved since the days of my 5D MK II from 2009 and my 1D MK III which both had lots of hot pixels, but not really a issue in normal photography.

Nov 11, 2012

For the most part, yes.

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 11, 2012

Shawn L said:
Thanks, once again, Mt. Spokane.

I am shooting in One Shot. May I'm just doing something wrong. Maybe it is still a MFD issue. I'm still getting used to the lens.

Shawn L.

The shutter will not close in one shot mode unless AF is achieved. Of course, at close distances, the depth of field can be thin, and if you move just a little after half pressing the shutter, it could change the focus.

dolina · Nov 11, 2012

Yes they do! That's why they sell them at a higher price than lenses that do not have the feature.

robbymack · Nov 11, 2012

The tamron has a 5 or 6 year warrantee, it's almost not worth worrying about a manufacturing defect here and there you'll discover it long before the period is up. I'm thinking the tamron will be my next purchase once it comes down in price. I have trouble paying 1300 for a third party lens.

Nov 11, 2012

Considering your budget, second hand seems to be the option. You could find a 28mm 1.8 USM, a 24mm non USM, or even the 28mm 2.8 non USM. For 100$ more you could have them new.

I would not recommend the 14mm, since these are extremely difficult lenses to use. Anything under 24mm is less than universal, the extreme angle of view makes it very challenging to compose an interesting image. If you are not used to wide angles, I would highly recommend that you try something between 24-35mm to start with. Extreme wide angles (20mm and shorter) are somehow specialized lenses useful when you have no other choice. I do a lot of architecture and interior photography, were wide angles are standard lenses; the shortest I use is the 17mm, only in a few occasions would I have needed a shorter lens. One of the rules I always stick with is : take a lens as short as you NEED but as long as you CAN.

Try if you can to rent a 14mm, you will quickly realize how difficult it is to compose a clean image in most situations.

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 11, 2012

Its mostly fallout due to the greatly reduced purchases of luxury items. Everyone has been hit by it, and, if the economy continues to get worse, we may see more of this.
Many stores have been barely hanging on.
A Chapter 11 reorganization does not mean that they will go away, it merely lets them clear their debts and contracts. This can attract new investors if they see a possible return. However, in times like this, investors are very careful.
Abe’s largest creditors and the amounts owed them include the distributor Wynit, $531,905; Pentax, $321,020; Warrentech, $215,893; D&H Distributing, $200,453; Nikon, $189,187; and KitchenAid (Whirlpool), $123,407.

bdunbar79 · Nov 11, 2012

rhysb123 said:
Hi Everyone,

I'm still thinking this one over!

I've heard that the 1Ds batteries can cause problems as they get older. Anyone experienced this?

I'm also thinking of swapping the 5Dc for a 5D mk2, but I guess that's a different debate!

The thrill of owning a 1ds mk2 is outweighing a 5d mk2 at the minute!

My only real concern is its low light capabilities. The 5dc barely cuts the mustard in dark wedding venues, will the 1ds mk2 be any better????

Thanks all

Rhys

The 5D Mark II in my opinion is a better overall camera than the 1Ds Mark II. Personally I'd pick the 1D2 over the 5Dc, but not the 5D2.

Quasimodo · Nov 11, 2012

Re: First attempt with my 1d-x

Technique fine, content like a 14 year old boy's fantasy.

infared · Nov 11, 2012

OK..I am flattered...I know this makes me a Canon Fanboy...but I AM amazed at the image quality with 5D III, 70-200 f/2.8 IS II, ISO 2500.....Handheld in 90 MPH winds...the photos are so sharp..that they freak me out a little...

Nov 11, 2012

Depends on your use. I'd say for outdoor portraits using a fast prime wide open, a variable ND might be a good choice. The higher end ones will not have a significant negative impact on IQ. But for long exposure landscape shots, where you might be using a wide angle, I'd go with the standard NDs.

Nov 11, 2012

I don't think you mean metering mode - that's evaluative, spot, partial, etc.

You mean auto exposure mode - P, Av, Tv, M. That's the only thing that can't simply be changed on a C# setting. You need to set the new mode, re-establish all the other settings, then register.

wickidwombat · Nov 11, 2012

dr croubie said:
a) yes that would be cool. There's already a lot of other T/S adapters for various lenses to Mirrorless systems (i've also got a few for MF lenses to my EF bodies)
b) But 'af passthrough' wouldn't work. AF works by looking at the relative phase-differences of the lightwaves coming through the lens. as far as I know, if the lightwaves aren't coming in at the right angle, AF would struggle (if you've ever used a tilt or shift lens, or lensbaby, you'll know it messes up the light-metering, same deal). But using contrast-detect in live-view works (for light metering at least). so maybe it might work for AF too (the contrast-detect af, not the phase-on-sensor). Still, I don't know what would be the point of a t/s lens with af...
At least being able to pass the aperture-closing signals through would be good, then any EF lens would be a t/s lens (no point on ef-s lenses). I was thinking that might be difficult to keep constant-rotation in the adapter, the wire links can't go around forever. But then I realised that normal TSE lenses so that anyway, so there's probably a way around it...

cool thanks for the info on b) i guess at least AF confirm and exif data transfer would be nice then, I would think the EF image circle onto the AP-C sensor and having the extra flange distance it would be a cool adapter to be able to turn any EF lens into a TS lens

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