Posts

NormanBates · Nov 13, 2012

neuroanatomist said:
NormanBates said:

Canon's DPP is a joy to use, simple and effective. Nikon's ViewNX is a nightmare that takes ages to update the metadata on an image and crashes more often than any other piece of commercial software I've ever used.

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IMO, DPP is a joy to use in much the same way that a visit to the dentist for a root canal is a pleasant experience.

DPP's UI reminds me of WordStar (I know, I'm dating myself here). If ViewNX is worse, that's pretty bad.

OK, DPP is not "a joy to use", but it's moderately fast, and it works. ViewNX can't say any of those. Real nightmare stuff.

petereoin · Nov 13, 2012

njwhitworth said:
Great actions shots - what body/lens and AF setup did you use?

Hi njwhitworth,

Thanks for looking and for taking the time to post a comment.
These were shot with a canon 300mm f/2.8IS mounted on a canon 1DMKIII

AmbientLight · Nov 13, 2012

This should really depend on your budget and mid term planning and if you want/insist on using a second camera as a backup.

If your budget allows purchasing a 1D-X, then I would definitely recommend that one, because currently it is the best you can get. If on the other hand your current budget will be strained too much by such a purchase, you should go for the 5D Mark III. It is really good, although not the same as a 1D-X.

I expect you will find yourself wanting to upgrade to a 1D-X as soon as you end up with the 5D Mark III and may eventually end up with purchasing one in addition to the 5D Mark III. In this case you end up with a great 1st/2nd camera combination. I have this combination, but I find myself using the 1D-X much more often than the 5D Mark III (about a 10:1 ratio). The only thing better would be purchasing two 1D-X, but that's a lot of money for a backup.

Nov 13, 2012

I love my ipad 3 for showing off my good shots - absolutely fantastic color, contrast, and detail! Barring that, my HP 27" 2560x1440 display is also nice

crazy that they're just about the same resolution...

PeterJ · Nov 12, 2012

Thanks for the offer but the instruction sheet that came with it has a fairly decent description of aligning the mirror, I checked and it was properly aligned to start with so that side of things seems OK.

The focuser doesn't look like it would be easy to modify, the various parts of the mechanism run pretty much along the full length of the tube. But thanks for the hint on the eyepiece projection adapter, I found a local supplier so just shot them off an e-mail to see if they think it will solve it and if it's OK to return if not.

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 12, 2012

Early DSLR's were susceptable to high voltage at the triggering of a flash. Canon redesigned the flash circuits so 250 volts is not a concern, but I'd stay away from flashes that produce 400v or higher.
here is a popular list http://dpanswers.com/roztr/volt_finder.php

Old flash units can be had for $5, so just pick a low voltage one, imho.

tron · Nov 12, 2012

I do not have experience on version 1. Only what I read in the internet but that you can find it too. However, I do have version 2 and I love it. I believe that it is one of the lenses that are worth their money. I wouldn't risk with version 1 anyway.

tron · Nov 12, 2012

PackLight said:
at just a bit less than twice the weight of the f/4 it will keep your arm in shape lifting it.

Interesting way to put it ;D

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 12, 2012

risc32 said:
well, just the other day i noticed that someone somewhere on here said something about how they loved their 135f2, but the focus was not so great. now, i know that's bull cause i've used one for an indoor soccer tourney, but this is the sort of stuff you can find all over the net. So no one has made an even somewhat scientific test minded test? with all these sites out there, nothing?

just stupid stuff, like the site i read the other day where the guy was recommending a 24TS for sports, and a 50mm1.2, and 75-300 IS L as good beginner's lenses. I forget what the recommended the 90mm TS for, but it was retarded. actually, I don't even have a clue what a 90mm TS might be really good for, but i bet it has a use.

it must... right?

Most will tell you that the lens focuses quickly.
In regards to some sort of a scientific test, in order to be scientific, you need a test procedure that is repeatable so others can run the same test and confirm the results.
Any given lens will focus differently on different subjects and test charts, on different camera bodies, and, of course different brightness or color of light. This means that one person could use the lens in a situation where it was slow to focus while another might use it where it focused quickly.
So far, no one has stepped up to coming up with any sort of test method to determine the speed of a autofocus lens that is scientific or repeatable.

gary · Nov 12, 2012

If you are looking for price with quality take a look at Benro. I use their carbon mono and tripods and have found them all well built and great value for money. I use the monopod with a 5diii 300 2.8L without problem. I would only say that I prefer the clip lock rather than the twist lock.

BRNexus6 · Nov 12, 2012

What is the point of a expensive 24-70mm F/4 IS when there is already an excellent 24-105mm F4 IS that can be found used at a great price? Canon is thinking backwards.

Daniel Flather · Nov 12, 2012

Yes, that's normal. My 50D clicked when you took the pic, the 5D3 does not. The 5 and 1 series are the same, that's how it makes you feel like a pro; you're only one camera away from the top, like the vice-president.

wickidwombat · Nov 12, 2012

Sheesh give the guy a break guys I had no intention of starting a sharpness witch hunt it was merely an observation perhaps some AFMA might help. Cute subjects though

untitled10 · Nov 12, 2012

Lock up the mirror and use the blow cleaner again.

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 12, 2012

I did not see any images that I thought would tax the autofocus of any Canon or even a third party lens.

If a photographer is capturing a series of photos of a subject rapidly moving toward him and needs them all to be in focus so he can catch a critical moment, thats where excellent and fast focus makes a difference. Then, its a combination of body and lens that makes a difference. For example, 1 series bodies use more voltage to drive the focus motor faster than say a 5D MK III can. They have a 12volt battery versus 7.2 which is a huge difference.

Using one shot AF, try focusing on something close, then point the camera at a distant object and press the shutter fully. The camera will take the image when the lens is focused. Compare that with a 85mm f/1.8. You will see a huge difference in the time it takes to focus.

However, its only that one initial focus that takes the long time. Subsequent shots that are more or less at the same distance, focus will be fast. Thats why its not a problem in actual use.

Nov 12, 2012

If its working on the one body then it should work on the second without an issue, as long as the contacts in the hotshoe are touching the contacts on the transmitter it will work.

Again you can call me if you want to walk through it.

Colin

Nov 12, 2012

I dont believe DPP overwrites the originals unless you tell it to. When you make changes to the image, it saves the changes in a sidecar file and just applies them to the original. You can revert back to the shot settings. Just load the image and under adjustments on the menu bar there is an option for that.

DPP corrections are not the same as in camera corrections. They attempt to achieve the same function but I am told they are different. DPP is supposed to be better. I assume that is due to the limited resources available in camera.

tron said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:

tron said:

bkorcel said:

Raw is raw...no corrections or in camera adjustments will be made even though you have the settings configured in your camera. All Raw adjustments must be done in post processing.

Configured corrections will be applied ONLY to JPG files.

Note, that in some bodies, the corrections will affect the drive mode buffer by reducing number of shots that can be taken in sequence. This is due to the extra processing required to make the corrections. Also note that once the corrections are made to a JPG, they cannot be undone.

Most bodies support creating a corrected JPG from a RAW image in camera so you can have both.

tron said:

Distortion correction is not supported in camera. The other corrections do exist.
Now I have enabled both features. However, unless I activate the lens correction in Camera Raw (which contains the lens profile) I do not see these corrections.
So I am cannot tell if something is happening in the Camera ! I have a question here

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

THANKS! It seems I have missed the obvious! (plus I usually shoot only raw so there was no hope that I would see these corrections).

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You can make them in DPP, but do it sparingly, since the size of the corrected cr2 image file will be approximately 2X - 3X the size of the uncorrected one.

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I have seen some similar settings in DPP. But I guess these are irrelevant of the Camera settings. They more likely seem like Adobe's Camera Raw lens corrections.
I am hesitant to use DPP since it seems to overwrite the original .CR2 files (Didn't want to save my experimental changes on DPP). I always wanted to check on that but didn't really need it since I used Camera Raw. You just confirmed this and I THANKYOU for that. I will keep using CR that does not change the original but uses xml files to save the settings.

RLPhoto · Nov 12, 2012

AdamJ said:
One UK online retailer has come out early with a price on the Sigma 35mm, of £599. For comparison, that is slightly less than the Sigma 85mm f/1.4.

http://www.microglobe.co.uk/sigma-35mm-f14-dg-hsm-lens-for-canon-p-9455.html

I like the Price. If its any good, I will Buy one ASAP. I tend not to buy first gen products immediately.

Sameer Thawani · Nov 12, 2012

Canon Rumors said:
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<strong>A new EOS 7D Mark II mention

</strong>A new EOS 7D Mark II is rumored to be announced some time in January, 2013. The camera would take the place of the 7D and 60D.</p>
<p>Specs are minimal, as should be expected. However, it should have a 20+ megapixel sensor and the ability to shoot 10fps. The frame rate is a “targeted spec” for the camera.</p>
<p>I think we’ll see the APS-C market slow down a bit, [size=12pt]now that the D600 and EOS 6D are changing the pricing structure for consumer camera bodies[/size].</p>
<p>Source: [<a href=\"http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/cameras/Canon_7dmk2.html\" target=\"_blank\">NL</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">c</span>r</strong></p>

Potentially yes. But also we must bear in mind that the D600 is at the same price point as the D700 (never mind that the specs are a combination of inferior/superior to the D700) and the 6D sits at the original price point of the 5DMKII. When both of these were around, we still had the D300s & 7D. But I agree with you, I think they are pushing the full frame lines first - probably because the full frame lenses were are compelled to buy bring in a higher sales number.

Krob78 · Nov 12, 2012

Fantastic image Richard! Would have been worth it even if you had to get out of bed, run downstairs, half way down the block to get it! I love those Eagles, I hope I get to capture an image of one someday myself! Great job!

Nov 12, 2012

vlim said:
Remember, the 5D3 is not a 1DX !!

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You mean not fully weather sealed ?

The 5DIII is weather sealed. But the 1D X is better sealed. For example, the 5DIII relies on tight case joints and foam seals in places where the 1D X has rubber gaskets and O-rings, the 1D X has no mode dial (buttons are easier to seal), etc.

Zv · Nov 11, 2012

Hey there, I was just on Amazon.jp and noticed the 6D kit is now available for pre-order. see price list below (the USD prices are just a straight conversion to make it easier to see the difference and is not the price of the kit in the US) -

6D body only = ¥178,201 ($2,242)

6D + 24-70 f/4 IS = ¥328,997 ($4,139)

The 24-70 f/4 IS on it's own is ¥146,526 ($1,843) pre-order so the discount there is non-existent! In fact at the moment it's cheaper to buy them separately!

For comparison the 6D + 24-105 kit = ¥268,200 ($3,375)

And also the 5D mk II + 25-105 kit = ¥224,341 ($2,823)

Interesting.

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 11, 2012

JoeDavid said:
Ryan708 said:

If you manually clean the sensor for at least 30 seconds (just enable manual cleaning dont actually have to touch the sensor) it will detect and map out dead pixels. At least it does on my 60d. Im pretty sure this is done prior to getting a new camera, dead pixels are like dust- you will eventually have some no matter what

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I've never heard of this but it seemed to work with a 5DM3 that I have. It had what appeard to be a stuck red pixel that showed up from ISO 100-3200 (didn't try 50). It seemed to disappeared at 6400 but I have the high ISO noise reduction set to auto and I think that removed it. Anyway, I tried an Auto Cleaning cycle from the menu and then a manual cleaning cycle for 30 seconds. After turning the camera off and back on, no more hot pixel. I even looked at a RAW file in PS with all noise reduction turned off and it was gone. It may not work in all cases, but I'm glad I tried it because I'd been thinking about sending it in to Canon. All they would have done was map it out so I saved myself from being without the camera for a few days. Thanks Ryan708...

The process works to some extent, but not for the really bad ones that show up in a video. Fortunately, cases like that are rare, and Canon will fix them.
I checked my 5D MK III (both of them) and they were remarkably clean and free of hot pixels. Sensor manufacturing technology has definitely improved since the days of my 5D MK II from 2009 and my 1D MK III which both had lots of hot pixels, but not really a issue in normal photography.

Nov 11, 2012

For the most part, yes.

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 11, 2012

Shawn L said:
Thanks, once again, Mt. Spokane.

I am shooting in One Shot. May I'm just doing something wrong. Maybe it is still a MFD issue. I'm still getting used to the lens.

Shawn L.

The shutter will not close in one shot mode unless AF is achieved. Of course, at close distances, the depth of field can be thin, and if you move just a little after half pressing the shutter, it could change the focus.

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