stilscream said:

I don't even drink coffee, but I would totally buy that coffee maker, just because it's a Canon!!!! :-*

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Don't forget the 24-105 and 70-200mm lens cups ;D

I was glad to see the update for my MBA the other day. Thanx Apple!

Beautiful shots most definately!

JustinTArthur said:

Man, in the low light footage, the D800 looks pathetic ISO1600+. How can it look so good at still and so bad at video?

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How? Because the 5D3 samples the entire sensor for video and stills while the D800 samples the entire sensor for stills but samples only 1/3rd of the sensor for video (tosses it 2 out of every three photons it collects when it does video by only reading one out of every three lines across the sensor).

So D800 has 1.5-2 stops worse SNR at any ISO than the 5D3 (for video). And only maybe 2/3rd of a stop better ISO at 100 (vs closer to 3 for stills) and already worse DR than the 5D3 by ISO800, if not earlier, and 1.5-2 stops worse DR for video ISO1600+.

The reading 1 in 3 lines also means it has much worse color moire and a bit worse aliasing. The do grab greater than 1920x1080 video and carefully downsample to 1920x1080 and don't apply a strong AA filter in processing beforehand so it grabs a bit more details than the 5D3 (but it's still no detail champ) and it also grabs some false details too.

They need to add zebra stripigin, focus peaking and a true 1920x1080 crips 2x2 samples 1.6x crop mode to the 5D3 video if they don't want to blow it all (C300-level will be hard to compete and they won't be any sort of champions there, the 5D3-level was there claim to fame, so cripplng it to help their cinema line is really, really dumb IMO).

shyy said:

For anyone that wants the KIT, go tomorrow in the morning because they do have it in stock despite the website not showing any and as I left the store, they were closing up.

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The website reflects only the inventory that we have at our DC in NJ; the store inventory is completely separate.

UPDATE: In a nutshell, the one "body" physically in the store warehouse was on hold for a customer because there were some issues with the form of payment he was attempting to use, and it was not available to sell until the issues were resolved.

The salesperson, tracked it down and found that it was in fact available to sell as there was a 2nd copy in the NJ warehouse on hold for the same customer.

I understand that the comment by the sales rep to the store manager was a joke.......

Helen Oster
Adorama Camera Customer Service Ambassador

I'm a huge fan of primes. You cannot beat the quality a prime lens gives you. Not just great sharpness and color and bokeh, but there is an certain quality about them that makes them pop, even at equivalent apertures with a zoom. Plus, they generally have MUCH less distortion than their zoom counterparts (not always, but usually).

I know you like the MF lenses, but if you get a fast prime, I do recommend sticking to AF on a crop body. If you shoot wide open, the DOF will be so thin that you wont be able to see it in the viewfinder well because crop viewfinders are tiny, and you are going to miss focus a lot.

Just my two cents! I would personally go for the 50 1.4 and call it a day. But that might be too long for you on a crop body.

Re: 5d3 - DPP to jpeg vs. DPP to tiff to pshop jpeg

Throwing this out there bridge to adobe raw produces true to camera files it seems. LR4 seems to add a color cast i dont like...

The AF Servo on the mkIII is really spectacular! While it is no sports, when I had the mkIII for a few days I tool some shots of my 2 year old daughter playing sliding in the park. I will say that almost all of them were in perfect focus while she was moving (34 out of 37)! With my mkII that number would be the opposite, that is 2-3 maybe out of the bunchwould have been in focus!

Mt Spokane Photography said:

What AI focus does is try to determine if a subject is moving towards or away from you, or staying in the same plane. Then, it selects either one shot or AI Servo.

Rather than have my camera guess (It will occasionally guess wrong), I set AI Servo unless I am capturing a image of a stationary subject at a reasonable distance or on a tripod. Even swaying 1/16 inch forward or backwards at macro distance is going to ruin a image.

Your camera detected this and used AI Servo. AI Focus is like the green button for AF setting.

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Thanks! Your tip about the macro is what I will try this week. It is a pain to hold your breath and hold still shooting close up

I am praying that the fighter jets start their practices again soon. So want to snap them with the 100-400...

so this is my very first video i shot with the 5d, and i decided to try out the 60fps since i didn't have it on the mark II. however there were a couple issues that i ran into:
1. shooting by myself, it was a lil difficult to know what i was shooting and if it was infact in focus
2. the editing got big, i ended up with a 30 gb video cuz i didn't know what formats to use.
3. i should have used better lighting.
4. twixtor and the smoke didn't really mix so i had to just use just regular slow motion

Smoking With a Canon 5D Mark III TEST HD

anyways, this was my first attempt, and i can't wait to get some time to actually start doing some cool stuff, because the one thing that I've learned is that this camera can do a lot, if the results aren't great that falls on me...

5d3 with the grip

KreutzerPhotography said:

I am thinking of the 24L and the 135L as my first 2 primes.

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Stephen Melvin said:

2. Low light fixed lenses.
24mm f/1.4L II
50mm f/1.4

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Marsu42 said:

Thank you very much for your input - this is really valuable to me. One question: Why the 24L and not the 35L (which might substitute the 24L and 50L since its range is in the middle)? Because you actually need 24mm often - but then why not use a real ultrawide - or for safety because the 35L might be to narrow in some rare cases?

I'm asking because I'd like the get the highly regarded 35L as my first low light L prime - but I would reconsider if everybody thinks this range is half-baked and I'd be better off the 24L in real world situations.

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I've never considered 35mm to be a very interesting focal length. It's really just a "normal," and I already have a 50. The 35L is very respected because it's optically superior to the first EF 24 f/1.4L. With the Mk II, this is no longer the case.

And if I ever need the field of view of the 35, I can always crop in. 22mp gives me a lot of leeway. But you can't go the other direction.

I've wanted a fast 24 for a very, very long time.

Anybody know if there is a teleconverter out there that works with the EF-S 55-200?

This is for video use (on a tripod), so the optical quality doesn't have to be great (just decent).

I'm doing manual focus, so I don't care about AF.

But I can't find any TCs out there that work with this lens at all.

Is there one?

They seem sketchy. I would avoid them. If its too good to be true then it probably is.

There is no list of dates versus serial numbers that I've seen. Many lenses had a date code on them, so finding that is your best bet. However, lenses that have been service ofteh have the part with the date code on it replaced, so it might no longer be there.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-Lens-Aging.aspx

Gotta love Kai / Digitalrev vids. 8)

Been out for a couple of days they look good! 3200 allows for amazing pushing of shadows

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=4458.0

adamoe said:

Hey so I just got my Mkiii .. yay. I'm shooting a wedding in a month and I wanna put that AF System to the test, I usually shoot with my 24-70 + a 70-200 buuut for the indoor shots i was gonna use a prime.. i like the 1.2 85, but its slow so i was wondering..
whats the FASTEST AF Lens canon makes? (and im not talking the 300mm 2.8 L for 7k.. lol)

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Consider the 135L or the 50L. I use the 50L and 35L the most at weddings. Both have snappy AF. The 135 is snappier. The 85 f1.8 is also worth considering (and it is light).

epsiloneri said:

well_dunno said:

Would you know how focusing is carried out when the cam is mounted on a telescope?

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Easy: manually, using the normal telescope focusing mechanism. Just point towards a bright star, and use live view if you have it (very useful). Fortunately all celestial objects are located at the same focal distance: infinity. I'm sure you can google up lots of helpful web pages on the topic.

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Thanks a lot!

Every camera has light leaks, the world is not perfect. The question to ask, is what affect the almost unmeasurable amount of light leaking in has on images. With a film body, and the back door opening and closing, it was really critical to reduce light leaks to a almost zero amount, because any light leaking in was exposing your film, for days, weeks, months, or longer. With digital, its only the time of exposure that counts, not when you have a lens cap on, or are setting exposure before you open the shutter.

The price of the grip was lowered on Amazon recently, so your order will be updated to reflect the new price. +1 as far as hearing late April. I'd bet on soon enough to make you appreciate it that much more once you get it, but not so long as to deter you from going out and still shooting with your new camera.

Superka said:

You may consider Nikon as one of the Sony brands.

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Why would you say that?

thank you, i guess that takes away being able to show people the native camera file.
it was what i was trying not to do, but thank you!

If you have a Mark III you won't need to get the 16-35mm anyone ;D Just pick up the 17-40mm.

prestonpalmer said:

I use this lens now for wedding photography ALL the time. In fact. If my all time favorite wedding portrait lens now!

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What is it about the 100/2.8L IS that makes you prefer it (on weddings) to the 70-200/2.8L IS II? Is it the less intimidating size or macro capability? IQ seems very comparable at 100mm, with the macro having a tad nicer bokeh. The 70-200, on the other hand, is much more versatile for portraits, so I would have thought you'd prefer that.