first alpha out!
http://www.magiclantern.fm/whats-new/104-releases/140-first-7d-alpha-released
not everything is working, the dual-digics have some fancy synchronizing going on...very interesting read...great stuff they're doing there!

these guys need support...they are just awesome!

They are in stock at Beach Camera. Use the coupon code Beachtoberfest30 for $30 off. Mine should be here Tuesday.

Edit: They have since raised the price to an unreasonable amount. Mine came in at $2269.

awinphoto said:

Drizzt321 said:

Richard Lane said:

Drizzt321 said:

Don't forget you also need a weather sealed lens to get full benefit of any weatherproofing.

The other thing you need to watch out for is if you'll be in an extremely dusty environment such as the desert. The dust can be very fine, and tends to get into everything no matter how sealed unless you provide additional protection.

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Yes, good points! I'll also add that some weather-sealed lenses need filters to complete the weather sealing. Sand and dust are the worst!

I also like to protect from sea/salt spray if the ocean is rough.

Edited: I'll also add that I always make sure that I have the rain covers for my thinktank belt pouches (which are attached) and the rain covers for my camera bag/backpack to protect the rest of my equipment (don't ever take those out of your bag).

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I'll add that the weather sealing isn't perfect, and with long term exposure to the dust & sand you can still get damage. For example, I was at Burning Man this year with my 5d3 and my 24-105 on basically the whole time. UV filter on the front, a bit of gaffers tape around the lens/body part. I thought I would be fine. Not so! Repair bill with 30% CPS discount came to a bit over $900.

So, if you're just going out hiking for an afternoon and don't plan on being in a whiteout dust storm, even if it's dusty, you'll almost certainly be fine. If you're going to be out on an alkaline dusty desert for a week, do something to seal up the vulnerable parts of your camera AND lens. Sea spray is probably just as bad, especially if it gets inside.

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Holy crap. I knew a guy with a rebel who wanted to shoot burning man. Glad he didn't do it.

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Well, it all depends on if he kept it out all the time, or put it in a sealed bag whenever the dust started to kick up. Probably just as well he didn't, he probably would have kept it out in one of the whiteouts, and dust would have gotten all in it.

revup67 said:

Can you be more specific? Are you referring to Shadow areas? If you're happy with the 7D then the 5D (IMHO) handles noise and resolution so much better

I've got some great bird shots, all cropped off the 5D III with a 400mm L 5.6 at my link if interested
http://www.flickr.com/revup67 (won't post photos to avoid clutter)

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Some very nice shots there.

I'm not sure how the 400mm prime compares to the 100-400 zoom for AF.

yes, shadow areas and lower midtones are my concern with both 5d2 and 7d, and even the 5d3 frankly, it's not that much better at low ISO than the 5d2. They're all relatively decent at higher ISO.

I'm not happy with the IQ of the 7D or any of the 5ds for landscape work so I limit their use to avoid their weaknesses.

5D's pixel density is half of the 7d's but yes, the quality of those fewer pixels is better because of the better SNR.

I've considered this trade before but, because that still leaves the 5d3 as a one-trick-pony in my stable, I can't justify moving to it just for this purpose at this time. If I didn't already have both of those bodies the 5D3 would be a clear choice.
IF the 5D3 price drops to about $2500 and stays there, I'll consider the trade only because...

.. I can't find a zoom that's comparable to the 100-400mm L that works in the Nikon lineup.
If I did, I'd have my answer!

with Canon alleged to be improving their sensor tech in the next generation of cameras I have another reason I don't want to buy a 5D3 now. 7D2 might be much improved or another FF body may appear that will do a better job. Then I'd have a better case to justify a new FF Canon as I could also use it with their excellent T&S wide angles.

As it is right now and for the foreseeable future, Nikon bodies are meeting most of my critical needs much better and will likely continue to do so for the next year or 2.

Hello.
Am looking to buy a snug cover for 1dx but cant find one. Any clues?
This is what Delkin told me: (I bought cover for 5d3 from them.)

Hi Sanjay

Thank you for interest and inquiry regarding our professional line of Snug-It protective skins. I am sorry to inform you that we don’t carry a snug-it for the 1DX camera and don’t have future plan for it as well. The 1DX camera is very expensive and very few customers have that camera. Most of our snug-it’s are designed for more affordable SLR cameras that have a demand in the market. If have any further inquires please feel free to contact us with any questions.

A white (amelanistic) western diamondback at the American International Rattlesnake Museum in Albuquerque. Largest variety of rattlesnake species in the world (there was a black/melanistic one in the case next to this one). The owner is very cool and has no problem with people taking in tripods.

anand said:

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, India.

I have been following him in all my three visits to the reserve. On my last visit, I video-graphed his mating session (with a 7D + 100-400 while on an elephant back).

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Lovely shot!

Dylan777 said:

param said:

5D2 or 5D3? 5D3 certainly.
Will the 5D3 deliver better "picture quality" than the 60D? For the most part yes.Will buying all this gear help put an end to obsessive day dreaming? No.

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My 2cents.... NOT most part. 5D III is better than 60D in everything, from chassis, IQ, AF, speed etc.

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Yes I had the 60d with 17-55 2.8 and now I have the 5d3 with 24-70 ii and its better in everyway. Never regretted my decision. I do not shoot professionally so I could have considered the soon to be released 6d which may be an option for you but the 5d iii is just a great body like dual cards af system etc. great iso performance.

Someone on here recommended XOSKINS to me.
I gave it a try and love them. I can't even tell they are there.

http://xoskins.com/

jbayston said:

the trouble with these massive file sizes is that it shows the lenses to be less than perfect. i still think that a great lens and a reasonable size sensor would beat and average lens and massive sensor.

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I would argue that it shows there is a renewed need for image stabilization. Or, alternatively, that the user doesn't have nearly as steady of hands as they think they do.

I can't say much about consumer lenses, as they are mass produced and use lower quality materials for the optical glass. But professional grade lenses, particularly Canon L-series telephoto lenses, are made with much higher quality glass and usually hand crafted for precision. I believe Canon's latest Mark II telephotos are plenty capable of resolving enough detail for a 46.1mp sensor. I recently used the new EF 300mm f/2.8 L II IS, the successor to what was previously considered Canon's sharpest lens ever, period. The sharpness of that lens is unbelievable, and was fully capable of keeping up with my Canon 7D for birds (lots and lots of super fine feather detail). Even my slightly older Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L II lens is capable of keeping up with the resolution of my 7D, and it isn't anywhere close to the engineering feat that the 300mm lens is.

The 7D, BTW, has a pixel pitch about the same as a 47.6mp FF sensor would have... So I seriously doubt anyone will have a problem with lens resolution, so long as they use professional-grade glass, and use newer lens models.

BruinBear said:

So i was looking up diffraction limits and i noticed that on my crop body, 60D the diffraction limit is f/6.9.

What does this mean in practical terms? If a lens i have is sharpest between f/8-f/11 should i still keep the aperture greater than f/6.9 because of this limit?

Thanks guys

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Diffraction is a property of lenses, not sensors as your title suggests. Therefore, a 60D does not have a diffraction limit.
Resolution of a lens depends on the lens design, and will be highest at different apertures for different lenses. However, having a high resolution is only one part of a high IQ. As you stop down, most lenses have reduced distortion, and reduced CA's.
Where a sensor comes in, is that sensors with more resolution can see diffraction better, but it is caused by the lens.
As you can see in this chart with a 15mp Canon 50D and 40mm f/2.8 lens, the resolution does not vary greatly out to f/8. The Chart below it shows basically the same pattern for the 5D MK II

40mm on 50D



40mm on 5D Mark II


Now, here is the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro lens. It shows the effects of diffraction really taking hold at f/16 and f/22.

100mm on 50D

If I'm not mistaken, you said you were looking for FD primes for an FD bayonet equipped Canon 35mm, correct?

Almost any of the primes mentioned so far will serve you well on any FD bayonet camera body. I use an FT QL from 1966 and an FTb QL from the following year and love all of the following on either of the two Canon film bodies I have.

FD 24mm (they make a couple of different versions of this)
FD 28mm f/2.8 (also with different versions)
FL 35mm f/3.5 - Excellent every day, all around lens
FL 50mm f/1.8 (the 1.4 & 1.2 jump exponentially in price. the 1.8 delivers plenty of light to the film plane so don't get too caught up in which one is best)
FL 55mm f/1.4 - probably the sharpest lens I've personally ever put on any EOS EF Mount camera body - even with an EOS/FD adapter in between.)

All of the 50mm primes are matched for the performance of the metering system as thery were essentially designed around the 50 1.4. Focus sharpness will, of course, be dependent upon your eyesight and how well you see through the finder. Split screen focus was stock for all bodies back then, too, so that helps a lot in darker situations.

Some more:


Sydney Opera House - Night Lights von 1982Chris911 (Thank you 1.000.000 Times) auf Flickr


Circular Quay and Sydney Skyline von 1982Chris911 (Thank you 1.000.000 Times) auf Flickr


Sydney Skyline - Mrs. Macquarie's Chair von 1982Chris911 (Thank you 1.000.000 Times) auf Flickr

Sitting Elf said:

I know the price will be high, and I'm budgeting for that.

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Yeah, I actually figured as much when I looked at your signature, but that was after I had already posted my comment : )

Anyway, here's an interesting thing: as reported on NL, Foto Konijnenberg in Netherlands is actually already taking orders for the 200-400, although you can currently only order one bundled with either a 1DX or 5DIII and they're showing it as "out of stock". If you substract the price of the camera from the bundle, it makes the price of the lens itself to be around €10,000, which means that it will probably be, indeed, $10,000 in the US. And it also means that the announcement should be right around the corner.

just wanted to thank you guys who've spoken so highly of these flash triggers. i bought a set last week and I'm happy, and impressed. Even the firmware update went smoother than i could have hoped for. I've got a wedding in two weeks that i'll be soloing and these are going to be very handy. Thanks.

I never understood anyway what a photo camera gotta do with shooting videos. Its a gimmick they just added to suck the money out of videographers pockets

NOTE from MOD: Post moved from EF 300mm f/4L IS gallery (best to keep all images in lens gallery topics to that lens).

I looked at this but instead went with the Sigma 120-300mm 2.8. It is very sharp.

With the 2x Converter remains sharp, retains auto focus and becomes 240-600mm f5.6.

The first image at 600mm. Shot from over 230 meters away on a 5D3


Untitled by P A - Photography - 5d mk3 arrives today!!, on Flickr

Launched off of a Military Sealift Command Supply ship (USNS) from the helideck. A team from Guam came aboard to do the launches and control (Remote control). This was in support of an International Naval Exercise near Singapore.
The ship launched five drones that day, and none were shot down by the players... though they tried!

I also have pictures of the drone recoveries. (They are brought back near the ship by remote, then parachuted into the sea, where they are picked up. I'll try to find those pics in my mess, and post a couple.

Hello comrades! Just came back from morning walk. L'vov. Canon 60D + 18-55 (old, from Canon 350D).
Here are my photos. I would be happy to see yours city mornings here!

Thanks everyone for the tips! Very much appreciated and will make notes of it!

A couple of responses here:

-I forgot to mention that I have yet to touch PS and am trying to stay away as much as possible. I like to keep the image of the real person. Not taking out acne/scars or whatever may appear on a face. I am sure one day I will have no choice but to dive in. But for now, i want to keep the image as true as possible. Like the image that someone posted where he took it into PS. To me it looks blown out and just can tell it was post processed like crazy. I appreciate the help though!

-Still working on that posing thing. That last image of her squatting down(looking back it does seem as if she is using the bathroom) she wanted badly.

-I do need to watch out for those low angle shots. A couple of times i setup for the shot and had to go over to her to adjust the dress to not show to much. In those really low angle shots I was actually laying on my back on the ground shooting.

-I noticed some of the soft/just not in focus shots when i first got them into lightroom. I know how the triangle works with iso/shutter speed/aperture and how the aperture affects the background and such. However, I made a rookie mistake in not changing my aperture much at all. For almost all of these shots it was at 1.8 when for the wider shots i should have bumped it up to keep her sharp in focus. Definitely something i noticed and kicked myself for.

-Definitely could have used a fill flash in some shots. Will keep that in mind!

Mikael Risedal said:

I think every one knows what he meant and if not it is you who has a interpretation failure.
He rather take a 75Mp in the future (every one understand that) and shows my pictures, was wrong with that?

You said earlier that you saw softness even at F- 4 etc.There is is no real softness at f- 4, but the image was not properly sharpen when I showed it first time . Then you are right about difraktion affect at f-8 but that is common knowledge
for almost every one.

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Why would you assume he suddenly moved to some hypothetical "future" context, when the context at hand involved 75mp only as an extrapolation from the pixel density of the V1, and the argument at hand was explicitly regarding the V1's IQ?

TexPhoto said:

Sounds like focus breathing. Also when you are close, camera placement can have an effect.

It is interesting though because when you have one 70mm lens, its 70mm, but when you have 2, suddenly there is an issue.

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True... with 2, a "Frame" of reference is born

Unless I win the lottory, otherwise this is just a dream:
1. Canon 50mm f/.95
2. Canon 200mm f/2L IS
3. Canon 600mm f/4L IS II

: : : : : :

While I agree that you most likely need things adjusted by Canon, using AV mode may not yield the exact same shutter speeds. Tripod, mirror lock up and 2 second timer definitely helps, but shooting in manual with your aperture and shutter speed locked in should guarantee you are looking at the exact same exposure.