crasher8 said:

I have owned or do own those lenses you mention on both a crop and a FF body. I really think the 28 1.8 is one of the worst QC'd Canon primes out there. MOST have horrible corners albeit sharp centers. The variety of reviews is all over the place.If you are on a budget and want a 'normal' prime for a 1.6 crop then you should consider the 35 f/2. It has great color, pretty good bokeh and is small and inexpensive. It's AF is might slow and buzzy however.

If you can afford it the 28 2.8 IS is a fantastic lens. Excelling at everything except stop motion in low light.

The 40 is a strange FL on a crop but is amazing for the money on a FF. Great street prime, group portrait, stealth mode lens and a lens cap you can shoot with.
It's AF speed is not unlike the 50 1.4 but it hunts in a different manner. Not true ring usm fast but much speedier than the 35 f/2.
If you are staying with crops and have no inkling to go FF in the near future you might consider a 17-55. Sell the 24-70. It's a nice lens but a 900+gram brick. The 17-55 might solve your 'normal' focal length search and I betcha you'll carry it way more often than the 24-70.

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I agree with the 17-55 option. You need to be able to go wider. On a crop even the 28mm works out to an equivalent of 45mm! You might even go for the 15-85... On FF like crasher8 says, the 40mm is lovely.

cayenne said:

I thought this was another nice one you've done.

What did you do for lighting..was it all natural....even for the announcer shots? Any reflectors?

Looks like pretty much all wide angle lenses...what all did you use?

I could see use of slider.....was there some steady cam too...or did you smooth out the 'walking' shots in PP?

Thanx,

cayenne

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Thank you!

All natural lighting. no reflectors, lights, or anything.

85mm f/1.2 L II on 5D mkIII for head shot. The rest were either Bower 14mm f/2.8 on 5d mkIII or tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 on 60D.

Konova Slider, and Glidecam HD4000. I think one shot was stabilized in post.

Edited in FCP X and graded with MB Looks

Eugene said:

You are bloody brilliant sir!
I never knew about the camera angles, having to be on the same sides.
The overexposing was cause I couldn't see my screen as well in sunny areas, as well as the lack of a good nd filter.

You are lovely sir.
Thanks. I'll keep you updated, and I'll show your posy to my fellow friends that helped make the video.

Cheers

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I'm glad the info helped!

Before you start recording, press info until you see the histogram. You can make sure you are not blowing out my making sure the wave form is not touching the right side too much, preferably not at all. If you hold down the shutter button half way during recording you will see the meter pop up.it may help to try and keep that meter at 0. That basic meter isnt always perfect, but it is helpful. You don't need an ND filter, just close down your aperture or bring up your shutter speed. It may not be optimal, but it's better than over exposure.

Also, it's helpful to turn up your lcd brightness when your in daylight.

Eugene said:

Thanks Neuro! I'd probably have to carry my bag around then, as I don't have a belt for my lenses.
One question, f4 would indeed be a tad slow, so should I leave my 24-105 at home?

Cheers

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If you can use a flash, it will be fine.
At parties, there can be mixed light, or bright and dark areas that you cannot control. I'd strongly recommend a flash, you will likely need it for some shots.

Try Helicon Remote:-
http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconremote.html

Rat said:

AdamJ said:

The Bing search engine had this stunning pic as their wallpaper a few weeks ago. I'd appreciate any insight as to how it was done.

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That looks a suspicious lot like the sun's magnetic field. Although there might be tricks to take photographs of solar wind, I think they would require specialist equipment and more than just a few filters. I suspect this might just be an artist's impression, though.

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It's the work of a Czech guy called Miloslav Druckmuller. A quick google shows that astrophotography is his thing but I'm guessing this is a composite, since I'm not sure it would otherwise be possible to expose the 'dark side of the moon' that well.

I'm spending Thanksgiving in Sun Valley and will be shooting a variety of wide and UWA landscape scenes. i.e. Baldy, the Lodge, Sawtooths etc.

I've had good learning experiences this fall with my B+W 3.0 10 stop ND filter but have yet to try it in a snow covered or high key scene.

Any tips would be appreciated.

TIA

a friend of mine just landed me one f2.8 non-IS.
Amazing.

Since it is happening multiple times, I would suspect them doing it on purpose to lure people to their site. You will not find the 5dIII at that price for a good 5 years lol.

I checked all the recommendations. SUPER nice.

As it is I am unsocial and am about to become more so!

Btw if any of you need my recommendation on a website it is Juza photo.

This topic has been moved to Third Party Manufacturers.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=10964.0

Something is bending so that contact cannot be made. It could be something as simple as a battery contact, but it is more likely a poor circuit connection inside the flash.
Send it in for repair.

RLPhoto said:

Canon APS-C sensor vs The Competiton.

The Competition Wins. :|

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It might be closer with this next round of products if Nikon continues to inexplicably put that 24mp sensor into everything they have. The 16mp was tremendous but apparently both Sony and Nikon decided it was getting long in the tooth - you can now get a D5100 or NEX 5N for practically nothing while they clear out stock. If Canon can produce a sizable improvement in the 7D2 sensor then the playing field could be level or even swing the other way quite easily.

Edit: the D7000 for under $1000 new is an absolutely amazing deal! If I hadn't already blown a chunk out of my bank account with my current kit then I would be all over that.

AdamJ said:

ScottyP said:

http://nikonrumors.com/2012/11/07/chipworks-nikon-d600-sensor-made-by-sony.aspx/

This from Chipworks, via Nikon Rumors.

Kind of interesting to look at NR. I want to go back and see how many posts tell gripers to "Go switch to Canon" or "It's not about the gear; it is about the talent of the photographer", etc... 8)

But apparently D600, D800, D7000, and basically all newly announced Nikons have Sony sensors, except for D4 and D3200.

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Is this news?

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nope, not news at all. D3/3S/700/4 are Nikon-designed, D7000/800/600 are Sony, and D3200 is a new Nikon sensor. More power to them - not being weighed down with their own fab means they can be more agile and source new sensor as they are available instead of being tied to one production process a la Canon.

hopefully it works, normally the authorised repair company in Austria, canon itself doesn't repair anything, wants to 'repair' it by themselves (expensive). As usual, asking doesn't cost anything.

I'll let you know on monday how the process here works!

thanks

I can only speak for the Mk3 2 x extender (as my 1.4 is a Mk2) which I am using on a 1 D4 with 300 F2.8 L IS Mk1 and 600 F4 L IS. On my gear it is significantly better than the Mk2 I owned and I would expect the difference to be greater on the Mk2 IS lenses.

I am confused by two technical terms in the camera specs, can anyone please explain the meaning and real life impact to me :-o ?

1. According to the specs, the 6d has an expanded "AF Working Range": "Center AF Point: EV -3 to 18 (at 73°F/23°C, ISO 100)" - see http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_6d...

• Since afaik all metering is done though the lens, (how) does the max. open aperture of the lens influence this af working range?
• Since the -2ev of the 5d3 is supposed to be nearly moonlight, does a -3ev rating make a difference for real life shots like darker wedding receptions or shots in dim-lit clubs?

2. The "Metering Range" for the 6d (and 60d btw) is "EV 0-20 (at 73°F/23°C with EF 50mm f/1.4 lens, ISO 100)", for the 5d3 "EV 1-20 (at 73°F / 23°C with 50mm f/1.4 lens at ISO 100)" ....

• Since a lens with a smaller max. open aperture will bump up the min. ev of the metering range, how does the difference between 5d3 ([email protected]) and 6d ([email protected]) matter for real life shots say with lenses of a max. open aperture with f2.8 or f4?

Now you're just being obtuse, Mikael.

Enjoy! And thank you Roger for an awesome blog.
http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/11/the-great-hostess-snack-cake-shootout

+1 on the fuji 680, but quite heavy/bulky, more for studio use, the fuji 6x9 rangefinders are fun to use, kind of rollfilm Leica M; Fujinon lenses are truly first class.

I first switched to digital to replace the small format film, but I ended missing it, I used a Canon F-1 new, but I realized it was a bit stupid not to use all that modern EF glass I have and ended buying an EOS 1v. I have a lot of fun to use it, and will likely sell the F-1 and FD glass. 35mm film is more like a fun stuff to do for me, it hardly competes with digital for IQ, but still, I make different pictures with it.

4x5 is something else, it forces to carefully think the shot before you pull the trigger, but IMO it's worth it and competes still very well with digital IQ (I have a bunch of excellent Schneider lenses). It is simply a different kind of photography, opposite of the computerized imaging of digital work. I sometimes use 6x7 and 6x9 rollfilm backs on my linhof, since it allows me to use my enlarger (limited to 6x9) for B/W work, though I admit I got very lazy with enlargements the last 2 years, plus when I take the view camera outside, I feel it's a kind of wasted energy to make "only" rollfilms with it.

I really miss the Hasselblad, rollfilm is a kind of good compromise, and 120 films seem to be the easiest to find. Your are badly tempting me with the Fuji 680

I'll try to post some 4x5 negative as soon as I get some, but I do not have too much time for 4x5 pics these days.

Thanks guys, that kinda answered my question. Just to clarify though, it would be a fairly static setup. The 430 is sitting on the 5DII on TTL and the 580 is separate from the rest (and not within optical reach, that's why I can't go wireless without extra triggers). The 580 will be on full manual, synced through PC with my 5DII. I was just wondering if the PC sync port would give signal if a TTL flash is mounted on the hotshoe. And "yes" seems to be the answer.

I really envy those who have 600EX-RT lol.

Lensbaby Edge 80 Optic

Finally got the "new" lensbay edge 80 optics this week, and this afternoon i finally had time for the first stroll with it. Enjoy a nice view of zurich, switzerland
I mounted the optic on the Lensbaby Composer, all shot with the 600D. Post in LR.


The very first picture by SwissBear85, on Flickr
The focussed stripe should be a bit more tilted counterclock wise to match the quai...


Bahnhof Stadelhofen, Hauptpendelzeit by SwissBear85, on Flickr

Too sharp for my taste. It feels like static noise invades my eyessssv ARARAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHSDasdk.mnd,asda d,as damnsd,.ads .-,

Viggo said:

Smashing lenses makes me care less about the "review" and more about the idiots and their stupid waste of great equipment...

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They look like rich dudes.... they did a piece on the 5d3 vs D800 and smashed the 5d3 in the end... painful, but the review was hilarious...


Err Dylan might smack me for it... maybe it was a 10D

GuyF said:

Jeez dude, this is a camera forum! How many of the folks here would know a Dragon if it bit them on the ass? Hey, now there's a competition! Does any contributor own a 1DX, a Leica, a Nakamichi Dragon and, say, drive an original Merc gullwing? If they do, the prize is to buy everyone else a new lens ;D.

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Haha... you know what.... I started looking up Nak's on Feebay right after I made that post... some nice juicy PA-7's were just sold..... needed a fix.