I went from a 550D to a 7D too for the same reason as OP. I kept missing shots due to the slowness. I adore my 7D, but sadly since I got the 5D II, it has been mostly unused. Glad you chose to go with the 5D III, you'll appreciate it in the long run!

Ryan_W said:

Not a dumb question. Very dumb t-shirt.

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I wondered about the same thing when I recently saw it - but it isn't dumb at all because all publicity is good publicity, he is remembered and talked about :-o

The 24-70 f4 lens is being offered as the kit lens with a 6D at Camera Canada for $3299.00. $400 more than the kit with the 24-105 f4. I think the 24-70 will make a pretty good match for an advanced amateur camera. By adding a fast fixed lens for night shooting and perhaps the 70-200 f2.8 II as a future prize it could be a relative cheap way for amateurs to enter the FF market and have a system with fairly high IQ, admittedly with limitations.

bdunbar79 said:

I am totally convinced that everyone on this forum is incapable of understanding humor/sarcasm. I would suggest going out sometime. The social experience is invaluable.

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On the contrary, I'm sure most of us understand sarcasm just fine, and many even embrace it Reading minds, and inferring the precise intent of a written post, eludes me, however. Had I assumed you were being sarcastic when in fact you were not, you might quite rightly have taken offense. I generally find it better to take statements at face value unless I have good reason to do otherwise. On the rare occasions on which I am forced to leave my basement, that is... :

DXO is way lame...

I've had my 1dx now for nearly 2 months and have already got a few fine scratches on the screen. I have 2 5dmkii bodies which I have owned for over a year and both have clean screens without any scratches. I wish I had a screen protector on the 1dx as I'm a bit gutted that a camera which cost so much has a scratched screen as I plan to own the 1dx for the next year or two.
The screen resolution is great and clear but I still think that you still don't know how good the images are until you get the files back on the computer. I did a shoot today for a magazine cover and trying to judge a pretty complex lighting set up from an LCD screen no matter how clear is pretty hard, so I would rather of had a plastic cover like on the D3 which you can take off at your own discretion.
I contacted Calumet about replacing the screen and it's not as simple as with the 5d's where you can take out and replace the screen only, Canon have to replace the entire back panel that the screen is attached to and it's not cheap!

Northstar said:

This may sound like a crazy idea but.....how about getting a part time job, and then go buy one for yourself?

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: Yea..... sounds good I know I left out the part about me that said I work full time for Chase, I have a family with Kids and I do some side weddings but that got me only about 600 this year as a second shooter.... sure better than most but that money doesn't go to more gear unfortunately

johnsonstudios said:

Wondering if there is any chance Canon will make a firmware update for the 1D IV so they can use the group function with the new 600EX flashes?

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Canon has an interest in phasing out aps-h so that they can sell more expensive tele lenses for people who aren't satisfied a crop sensor. For this reason alone Canon imho won't add *any* firmware features, and they aren't in the habit of doing so anyway - they only do it when pressed by the market (5d2 video, 7d2 auto-iso, 5d3/1dx f8).

Bad news for you: esp. the group function is the "premium" feature only available on the newest 1dx/5d3 bodies, since older bodies like 5d2 without rt ui are compatible with the 600rt even if Canon tries to say otherwise (hss speed) - why would Canon backport this? And they didn't to paid firmware updates yet.

http://michaelhodgesfiction.com/

These days I find these Green Bee Eaters in plenty.

The Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis) (sometimes Little Green Bee-eater) is a near passerine bird in the bee-eater family. It is resident but prone to seasonal movements and is found widely distributed across sub-Saharan Africa from Senegal and The Gambia to Ethiopia, the Nile valley, western Arabia and Asia through India to Vietnam.[2] They are mainly insect eaters and they are found in grassland, thin scrub and forest often quite far from water. Several regional plumage variations are known and several subspecies have been named.

SwissBear said:

i heard that tulip-shaped lenshoods start to soar if spinned with 1000rpm or more.

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I think I have to test that

I do about 30 weddings a year for about 10 years now. My suggestion is to get 2 580's or the new 600's...Use one to trigger the other if needed....You could get one of the big flashes and add a 430 too, but the big flashes give you master/slave but the 430 doesn't give master...But having two isn't bad since if one breaks you have a backup.....You will need 1 flash on your camera for anything that is in a darker reception room or at night, especially for people..You could also use both flashes in these scenarios as well.

Natural light is only going to get you so far during a wedding day...And with all the quicky portraits and dances during a reception you will also need the focus assist that the flash will give you depending on how dark it is. If it's dark the camera may have trouble focusing depending on how dark and what lens. You can easily trigger the 2nd flash if needed for off camera stuff.

I also use the pocket wizards with ettl and they are great but not when its darker. You lose the focus assist unless you have a speedlight on the camera.

Hi all,

I'm currently in the process of building up my collection of lenses and am need of some advice.

I'm look for something in the telephoto zoom range, most likely a 70-200, and I've been looking at the offerings from both Tamron and Sigma. Does anybody have any experiences with either of the lenses? What about the comparison between them and their Canon counterparts?

Any opinions/advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

I took some photos of a friend driving his monster truck last summer (2011), and ended up having to use the 35mmL and cropping the images severely. Even wide open and severely cropped, I can print large prints.
f/1.4



f/2.8



Before cropping:

CharlieB said:

True differences of the one measly stop - 100/2 vs 100/2.8 macro... I have used, and LOVE the 100/2, but I got the 100/2.8 macro..... you'll never notice the one stop difference in DOF or bokeh.

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Maybe you don't, maybe the OP won't. I certainly notice the difference in DoF between f/2.8 and f/2 at 85mm and 135mm.

I think a TS-E would be a great choice. Which one would depend on how much room you have, if you can back up to where 24mm is wide enough, I'd choose that one. The TS-E 24 is nearly distortion-free. Up on the ladder, you could use a little downward shift to keep the window lines straight.

2012 Alaska Cup by alabang, on Flickr

the canon xf300 actually has a feature built-in to recover card issues. check that out. you might loss 10 second of the footage

I have read comments from some users that turning off AFMA of my 5D MK III will let the TC work. I'm not going to even consider that.

That's almost certainly the reason. It will work on any APS-C camera, except for the 10D (which predates the EF-S mount).

Not the first time I've seen Vegas recommended, I may have to try it out. I'm interested in rendering timelapses in HD in addition to video editing, I'm not happy with what I get from my older version of Pinnacle Studio. I've read that the newest version of Pinnacle Studio is quite a disappointment.

nightbreath said:

Sorry for the off-topic. I just wanted to ask a question.

Everyone says that there are good or bad copies of lenses. Isn't misfocusing on specific distances fixable by Canon?

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I have done this and i have sent in my camera bodies and lenses calibrating them all. Its expensive as H just to ship because of insurance and weight. One thing i will say is camera sensors are also part of the problem many times. Some camera sensors aren't perfectly aligned on the body so it affects lenses that are mounted. Some lenses don't cause trouble on a body that doesn't have a properly aligned sensor with it but i'd say the big glass isn't as forgiving.

Yes sir, i have used the 70-200 i believe it was with a 12 and a 25 on it and it worked fine. The only thing i didn't like is being steady with a heavy long lens. It does render flowers really well with a tripod or monopod too. I used a spider holster setup but attached the 2 hooks on a think tank belt on that belt i also have a bag hanging behind me. In the bag i kept my fisheye lens, color checker passport and cases of unused recharged batteries to change out. The beauty of the 40 is its small even with an extension tube and that will be in the bag instead of my fisheye lens. I sold that lens. I don't want a macro lens or at least commit to paying the money for one.

tron said:

insanitybeard said:

tron said:

bakker said:

if you do a lot of landscape/wide-angle then I wouldn't go for primes. The comfort of being able to zoom beats shallower DOF.

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The zoom cannot beat the quality at the edges though. Zoom lenses are worse.

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Having the said that, in the case of some of the older primes like the 28 1.8 and 20 2.8 the corner performance isn't really any better (and in some cases worse) than the zooms. I considered getting the 28 1.8 as a fast standard prime for a crop camera but was put off for that reason.

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In an attempt to compare apples to apples I do not think that 28 1.8 is a good example. I mean the comparison must be between L lenses and L zooms or non-L lenses and non-L zooms

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Very true..... mind you, the non-L full frame zooms are getting a bit thin on the ground these days!