I still like the unedited raw straight from the camera more on a 5d3 than an unedited raw from d800. Sure, with the d800 you have more room for pp, but with 5d3, you don't need to do much pp.

I heard they were shooting through a giant bag filled with a 12-18 million dollar budget.

I have nothing against the movie and I definitely have nothing against the 5d, but I think that shooting a 12-18 million dollar movie on the 5d is wasteful. If the helmet cams are so important, they could surely hack together their own, higher resolution cameras for that job. There are two incredible and incredibly low budget movies that stand out to me in that respect; Monsters and Bellflower. These directors hacked together their own cameras with only a percentage of a sliver of Valor's budget. I know Bellflower was made for $17,000.

The 5d is an incredible tool for independant filmmaking but movies with budgets in the millions should spend less on trying to make the 5d look like film in post and just a little bit more to film on a Red or Alexa.

Act of Valor is cool, but then you realize that it had nearly the same budget as Pan's Labyrinth; which was beautifully shot on film and had a good deal of top-notch CGI.

As 5d filmmakers, we should keep our eyes on movies like Monsters, Bellflower, or Tiny Furniture... But we should also hope that if and when we'd have a budget well into the millions, we'd be shooting on Red, Alexa, a soon to exist Canon or Sony 4k, or film.

I have a friend shooting a movie on an iPhone and it looks pretty darn good actually. But if he had $3,000 or even a few hundred (to rent) lying around he'd be shooting on the 5d.

I shot a $6,000 movie on the 5d2 and plan on shooting a $20k on the 5d3, but even at $20k I'm still torn as to whether I'm going to make room in that budget to rent a C300 instead. The visible resolution bump may be worth it to me. Movies are too much work to shoot on anything less than the budget can accomadate. These are my thoughts anyway.

Yeah, i have a little Panasonic HMC-40 and the default shutter speed for 30p is 1/50. At first it didn't make sense to me, but after doing some tests, 50 does make things look a bit more like film compared to 1/60.

Only time i use a higher shutter speed is when shooting for slo-mo, only because i read that a high shutter speed had a lot to do with how Spielberg got that certain look during the opening scene of Saving Private Ryan! lol. Of course, you don't want that all the time though.

GigaPan is half way there. Quite suprised they don't make one with this option.

http://www.gigapan.org/cms/shop/store

The manual for the 600EX-RT and ST-E3-RT are now available at Canons site
http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/5/0300007515/01/st-e3-rt-c-en.pdf - the ST-E3-RT
http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/0/0300007510/01/600ex-600ex-rt-c-en.pdf - the 600EX-RT

Hi all,

Long time lurker here, finally signed up.

I've just stumbled across another batch of cashbacks in the UK if it's of interest - this time to go with the Euro 2012 kickball.

http://www.canon.co.uk/euro2012cashback/

It includes some powershots, and the 550D & 600D, but mainly a big bunch of lovely glass. Haven't been through in depth but it looks like roughly 10% off current prices.

Means I can just about sneak the 70-300L under £1,000 - might just force me to pull the trigger . . .

Pete

PS. Apologies if this has done the rounds already - had a quick search and couldn't see anything obvious

I think he got shirty because the Canon wasn't as bad as he thought it would be, and in fact, was far superior in its high ISO performance.

It was a lot closer than I thought it would be in the high reolution still test near the beginning of the video.

Definitely got to get me a 5D3.

I lost interest when he said out of camera jpg comparison i'm afraid.
pretty meaningless IMO especially when you see how much over the top NR is applied in camera

mcintoshi - 9 days and counting !

To Rakamrak:
You have listed a Canon 40d & lens etc... but no flash ? If you have the 430EX II speedlite than the Pocket Wizards Mini TT/FlexTT are great, but expensive. Approx. $220.00 for Trans. & $ 220.00 for Recvr.. The 580EX II has issues with the Mini/Flex combo but can be worked around for more $$$. The Radio Poppers I hear are also just as good but are also very expensive. You do NOT need a flash on the camera to make the Pocket Wizards work, BUT on the Radio Poppers you Must use a flash on the camera to make that system work.

I did not have the money to pay for expensive P.W. & R.P. but I did want E-TTL. I use 2 Nissin Di-866 pro mk I flashes with my Canon 50d along with Pixel King Trans. & 2 King Recvr's.. So for basic E-TTL or Basic Manual
set-up, you can not go wrong. At $ 130.00 for 1 Trans. & ! recvr. then I bought another Recvr. for $ 90.00. If you want to use a flash on camera the Pixel King set-up is not the way to go. Nor is the Phottix Odin's ! The Phottix Odin's are approx $ 440.00 for 1 Trans. & 2 Recvr's.. The new Canon 600 Ex-RT are over $620.00 for 1 speedlite and you need to add the ST3 (approx. $250.) to make that work !?! OR add another 600EX-RT to make it work !?! It all depends on the money you have to spend, your experience, and how much you want to mess with all of it, in doors & out on location.

msdarkroom said:

prestonpalmer said:

Get the 16-35 instead.

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I am considering this...

Do you think it's worth the extra $?

Have you used both the 17-40 and 16-35?

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absolutely! make sure its the 16-35 mk2 though
this lens wide open is usefull for so much more than boring ol landscapes
if you can afford the different you wont regret it
bear in mind the 82mm filter size too makes filter cost more spendy and you have to get the ultra slim versions to avoid vignette issues

7enderbender said:

Thanks for all the background info provided here. A few more questions:

Is this problem less pronounced in CCD sensors? As far as I know the Leica M9 doesn't have such a filter and I still think that it's one of the cameras that delivers the best results of them all (I don't have one and there may be other factors at play including the lenses).

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A lot of that is psychological...there is a hard-core subculture of Leica fans, similar to the hard-core subculture of say Apple fans. Apple stuff is nice, but it is not necessarily "the best", and a significant factor of its success is the psychological impact of Apple's advertising and presentation (they really do excel at making people want their products, regardless what the product is.) There is also plenty of information on the net about professional photographers who have complained about moire and aliasing with their incredibly expensive Leica cameras. A couple google searches should bring all that to the surface. Don't get me wrong, Leica cameras are certainly excellent...however they are by no means perfect, there are issues with the lack of an AA filter, and the gap between Leica and regular old DSLR's has certainly shrunk with the advent of the D800 (and even the 5D III, which is still a very high resolution camera.)

7enderbender said:

Also, wouldn't it be possible to leave out the filter and deal with any moire effects in post? Or would it be possible to arrange the photosites more randomly? I'd like to see something that was more along the lines of film grain anyway...

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You can always try to fix things in post, but no amount of post-process work can ever really entirely restore what you may have lost initially. Lightroom 4's new Moire removal tool is pretty nice, but it is not perfect, and can only do so much.

As for arranging photosites randomly, certainly! Thats essentially how the retina's of our eyes work, with an entirely random distribution of luminance and chrominance sensing structures. Trying to manufacture something similar, however, would be much harder than manufacturing something with a simple, repeated pattern. The design of such a CMOS decide would be incredibly complex, and one would have to wonder exactly how it would be done at all (How would you handle "row" and "column" activate? Could you even do row and column activation? How do you parallelize readout if you can't? How would random distribution affect current flow and electronic noise? What is the smallest density you could achieve? etc.) There may be some ways to achieve such a thing while still using a grid-based pixel layout, called Digital Film System. There are plenty of challenged with that approach as well.

Randomizing distribution should certainly resolve the issue though, as moire is the interference pattern generated when similar repeating patterns interact in a non-ideal way. Eliminate one of the repeating patterns, and the effect should disappear.

I use one on my 35L and absolutely no issues. I do believe the 5dII auto corrects vignetting anyway (not that you asked!!) but don't think it would be an issue anyway.

The irony is this: my 77mm filter that I use is a.....Nikon Clear filter!

Got it when our local Ritz went out of business for like $25 or something ridiculously cheap. Awesome filter BTW

FocalFury said:

wickidwombat said:

not only that but 580ex2 will fire at 1/8000 sec with HSS turned off at full power

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How is this even possible? Is this a documented functionality of the Odin? I ask because even if you mount the 580exII directly on the camera you won't get full-power at 1/8000.

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i'm guessing the odins have a built in time control of the release of the flash burst which is around 1/20,000 sec for the actual burst of light

Yes, a rebate just ended. Track at canonpricewatch.com.

I looked closely at some images that had a white wall and could see the pink in the lower RH corner even at ISO 12800. I had noticed something not quite right with the right top and bottom corners, but now that I've looked, it is AMP glow. Supposedly, that went away with the move to CMOS. It was quite noticible with the CCD sensors and long exposures, but with ISO 12800 and a 1/40 sec exposure, I'm suprised to see it.

Here is a image. Note, it was in my laundry room at night with lights off and the lighting was about -1 LV, and was darker on the right side due to light coming down a hall at right angles and the doorway shading a room that was almost totally dark anyway.


All my low light test images had a slight pink tinge in the lower RH corner, and to some extent in the upper RH corner. The one below shows it the most.

I wonder if this will be a big problem for astronomers, I would certainly think so.

ISO 12600 1/40 sec






ISO 51200

That's interesting... Wonder if it's a trick they are employing to gather pre-orders or they are really going to sell it at 2930...

You can view test chart images here using 1.4 & 2X, both MK II and MK III TC's: It looks like the MK II gets pretty fuzzy at 2X while the Mark III TC is noticibly better. The 1.4X MK II is not bad, but the MK III is sharper.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=486&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=1&LensComp=486&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=2&APIComp=0

Pre-ordered my 5D3 w/24-105 kit on 3/2 at 9:30 AM PST. Received 4/2. Diving into the manual....

+3 The 135mm f/2L will not fail to deliver the photographics goods. Its a supreme lens for the $$$ and A stratospheric level of sharpness that always surprises me. Its great on my 5Dc and my 7D. It deserves it's 5 stars.

Heres an event photo to demonstrate the revealing sharpness that allows you to crop like crazy or enlarge like a maniac.

The original File is here.
http://images.us.viewbook.com/633e0fcc781581bede1afe2a9e4679b4.jpg

donno, but if i had to describe the feel of the mk3 in my hands in one word it would have to be sexy.

t.linn said:

...However, I think it would be a mistake to conclude that 5D3 doesn't improve on image quality when compared to the 5D2. Better focused images improve image quality and better exposed images improve image quality...

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I think this is the part that really hits home for me as well.

I've sat there with both 5D2 and 5D3, doing comparison shots using the same lens and getting perfect focus through live view, etc... etc... and yeah - the comparison between the two shots is shockingly similar. The MK2 can still produce amazing images if focus and exposure settings are perfect. My MK3 is ever-so-slightly sharper (some people say their MK2 is ever-so-slightly sharper - I think it's simple variance between copies). BUT out in real world situations, you don't have the luxury of taking your time and getting perfect focus with live view... My keeper rate in actual shooting situations has improved so dramatically, it's like I'm playing in a whole different game. Especially so with wide aperture lesnses

neuroanatomist said:

If Canon comes out with an RF receiver with a PC sync connector that I can use to fire a monolight, I'd consider it.

But...people have mentioned preferring to control the groups using the flash display rather than 'digging into the camera menus' - personally, it's hard to image anything easier that spinning the little wheels on the PW AC3 to adjust the relative output of the flashes...

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Or even using the old St-e2 with its push buttons ...

I was about to buy a 430EX II but it would seem due for an update - last refresh was in June, 4 years ago. Do you guys think we'll see a new one this year? Is it worth holding off a bit?