Marsu42 said:

Ok, this contradicts what I've read before, but I guess I believe you since you have a 7d. To make dead sure: We are talking about the "Kenko 1.4X PRO 300 Teleconverter DGX for Canon EOS Digital SLRs", are we:

http://www.amazon.com/Kenko-1-4X-Teleconverter-Canon-Digital/dp/B002C6QC3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332344013&sr=8-1

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That's the one!

I would say that most professionals rarely use the Auto ISO mode. It probably works great for walking around town in good light and pulling the trigger, but for wedding photographers like myself, even portrait and sports photographers, they will be controlling ISO manually. No matter how good the AUTO is, it sill cannot predict the motion that will be in your next frame. You, as the photographer can. If you are accustom to using the auto ISO on your camera now, start using it less and less and eventually end our dependence on it. You will see an improvement in your photography when you do

Re: Nikon D800 tested at DxOMark, gets the #1 spot

There is no question that the D800 is an awesome camera. The problem is, as a professional wedding photographer, I have absolutely NO need for 36MP. That's WAYYYY to much for weddings, and most kinds of photography (except landscape) in general. So I for one applaud the Canon for making the 5DIII a perfect wedding and portrait photography camera at 22MP.

So the question really is, Canon now has a great Sports Camera (1DX) and an awesome Wedding / Portrait Photography camera (5DIII), so what is it going to do to capture the other 1/3 of the photography market? A HUGE MP Camera MUST be on the way... There are people at canon reading this website. Something must be in the works, and fast. Otherwise Canon users users will be jumping ship at a record rate over to Nikon. I know a number of my Canon landscape friends already ordered the D800....

^ very well said.

Hi, there seems to be available.
http://www.fotopro.ch/index.cfm?name=canon-eos-5d-mark-iii,-gehaeuse&artikelID=4048

I picked mine up yesterday and I love it so far. New LCD is beautiful and I don't think the AF has missed once so far. I'm still getting used to the zoom button being on the left, but no complaints otherwise.

tomsop said:

Thanks - I never really considered other models so I will take a look at that.

I have two small children that I want to take videos of and right now I am using my iphone 4s. I know it is time to replace the xsi with something more current and has video capabilities because right now I switch between the camera and iphone or I have stopped using the camera so much because it is harder to switch using two different devices when I want to take a still.

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For moving objects like kids, I'd be inclined to go to a model that will autofocus while shooting video. something like the Sony A57. Canon has yet to make a DSLR with continuous autofocus during video. The focus of their DSLR's has been towards users who can do manual focus or have relatively stationary subjects.

I find my 5D MK II and 7D useless for video of randomly moving subjects, but great for things that don't move.

There are several micro 4/3 choices by other manufacturers as well.

I think I might have the same problem but I'm not to sure, can I get a second opinion?

Hi all,

dpreview just posted additional images:

http://www.dpreview.com/news/2012/03/23/Canon-eos-5d-mark-iii-samples-gallery

Thanks!

Had this issue with the mark the 5d mark ii. Almost picked it up from bestbuy too with a 10% off coupon I found but it only applied in store and the item was only available online....bummer

Its definitely a new sensor, the items below require a new sensor design. Unfortunately, there are a number of trolls who just like to see how many will spread their mis-information around.

The sensor is improved, just how much no one is revealing, but the net effect seems to be a big improvement in the images taken by photographers I respect. There are lots of first time users posting poor images, its easy to get one and, just like any tool, it requires some experience and knowledge to get good ones.

We will see what results from production bodies and knowledgable testers. BTW, there are some pretty good ones posting on CR, as well as many more who are less experienced.

From the horses mouth

http://www.arihazeghiphotography.com/AH_CW_interview/

Interview with Canon Technical Adviser, Chuck Westfall

"CW: Three main areas of image quality-related improvement on the EOS 5D Mark III image sensor compared to the EOS 5D Mark II are:

• ·Gapless Microlenses: This feature increases the amount of light received by each photodiode compared to the gapped microlenses used on the 5D Mark II’s image sensor.
• ·New Photodiode Structure: The photoelectric conversion rate of each photodiode has been improved
• On-Chip Noise Reduction: Canon’s proprietary technology in this area, which was first shown on the EOS D30 Digital SLR in the year 2000, has steadily improved over the years.

The net result of these improvements is a cleaner signal at all comparable ISO speeds for the 5D Mark III, as well as increased sensitivity that is indicated by the expansion of the standard ISO range from 6400 on the 5D Mark II to 25,600 on the 5D Mark III.
We also doubled the throughput speed of image data from the CMOS sensor to the rest of the image processing chain by increasing the number of simultaneous readout channels from 4 to 8. This change has a side effect of helping to improve EOS Movie quality as well by cutting the level of rolling shutter artifacts in half"

D.Sim said:

Also:

I forgot to mention it's not only AF that quits from the canon 50mm 1.4 lens it's also the MF. They both stop working and it becomes a dead lens.

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MF failing?

where are you getting this info?

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Unfortunately he's right. If you have the problem like I described above, the MF will also fail. This lens is notorious for this problem. The focus ring can easily get bent and severely limits the range of the auto or manual focus. This is not an isolated issue and if you google "fix canon 50 1.4 focus problem" you will see many results of people having this problem. Like I mentioned if you're not scared to open your lens up and fix it, it isn't a deal breaker but if you are rough with this lens, you will likely have problems. Actually I was much rougher with my 50 1.8 and never had any problems but I'm taking extra care with the 1.4 now. If this lens takes a hit to the front, there is a chance that you'll have focus problems but still, a great lens and highly recommended from me for its cost/quality.

Its JPEG engine is definitely better, such that 12800 is very usable. Take that for what it's worth. RAW ISO, on the other hand, perhaps someone else can better quantify it for you as I haven't done major comparisons yet.

Here is one of my photos I took of my neighbors dog

mr.ranger said:

RustyTheGeek said:

prestonpalmer said:

Of all the lenses I pull out of my camera bag, my 16-30mm f/2.8 is on my camera more often than any other. As a professional wedding photographer, I am at evening events twice a week. Have you considered getting one of these? Then you will have it when you upgrade to a full frame body.

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Yep, big ditto! My 16-35 L lens is my favorite lens for both FF and Crop bodies.

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thanks Rusty TheGeek for the Advise I'm planning to get the EX 580II and possibly a smaller slave flash. and yes i have looked at the 16-35L. seems to be a awesome lens.

Mt Spokane Photography thanks for the advise. but with flash will the 2.8 still not be fast enough?

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This is where experience, practice and personal style determine the answer to your question. IMHO, in a real world party scenario, two stops of light (2.8 vs 1.4) in the lens can either make all the difference or not so much. It just depends how you want to shoot, what DOF you can accept/work with and/or what ISO is acceptable. In low light, it's common to expect that expensive and exciting BAA (Big Ass Aperture) lens to be a cure-all, but in reality it will extremely limit what is in the focus plane at f/1.4 and nothing stops blur except more shutter speed which the aperture only partially helps you achieve. (Don't forget the Exposure Triangle!) So, how do you sacrifice/regain your DOF? Change the aperture (+/- DOF/focal plane), shutter speed (+/- blur) or both? Or do you live with more noise and crank up the ISO a bit to help both DOF/Blur? I do a little of it all to vary the way the shots turn out and how I plan to "fix" them later in post. In candid photography, you are often shooting multiple people or little groups laughing, moving and almost never lined up to all be in focus. And you aren't shooting a dark city skyline on a tripod. So don't expect a 1.4 aperture to provide you with a lot of wonderful in-focus/well-lit-in-the-dark people shots. It just ain't gonna happen! At a 1.4 aperture, you will likely see eyes in focus and ears blurred. That means that the person next to them will likely be soft if they are an inch or two forward or back. 2.8 is much more forgiving than 1.4 in this respect. I also keep my eyes peeled for higher levels of available light in the area like windows, lamps, neon, stage lights, campfires, moonlight, etc. A subtle fill flash will help slightly improve the focus and shadows by stopping the movement at the end of the shutter (assuming you use 2nd curtain) which allows a little tighter aperture setting to get more acceptable DOF. In low light you don't need a lot of flash, you need it well diffused and well shaped so it blends in. Bouncing it, letting the diffuser scatter it, whatever it takes. In addition, if you are at an ambient light level that only f/1.4 will allow you to work with, you probably won't be auto-focusing well and will have to manually focus most of the time unless you have a flash with focus assist. At this point, you are on the edge of getting good photos at all. You will need to go to Manual settings and do a lot of multiple exposures to hopefully get a few non-blur shots. It's possible but it will be a challenge.

Again, good luck and HAVE FUN WITH IT. It will be less stressful and more fun if you practice a lot before the actual event!! Practice shooting and practice fixing the shots in post so you know your setting limits that can be "fixed" later. Take insurance shots with the flash and camera on auto "P" if you have to but then change your settings and go for the creative shots that will likely be a lot more interesting and impressive. Otherwise, you might as well just take a point and shoot and provide basic safe pictures like anyone else.

It may seem like the thead may be misplaced but I'm glad they did. Canon is shipping and Nikon isn't (so far). Canon announced later but now they are shipping in what looks like quanitity. That is manfacturing power. I don't know how it is in other countries but in the U.S. people will buy what is available. I've decided to go both Canon and Nikon because I don't know who can deliver. Canon introduced the new Super Teles las summer and we still don't have the new 500 and 600mm lenses at their new inflated prices. I'm hoping Nikon will provide some competition but even their lenses seem to be backordered. My message to both companies are "Be sure you can deliver what you announce."

V8Beast said:

Coming from someone who shoots with three 550EXs, and is about to shell out big bucks with multiple 600EXs and an ST-E3, I'm certainly not doing it to save money over a proper monolight setup! I'm on location for 90 percent of my shoots, and using off-camera flash in 90 percent of those shots. The portability, the lack of cords, the lack of a power supply, quick setup time, and precise ETTL metering is why the Speedlites suit my needs most of the time. However, they are by no means a substitute for a set of real monolights in a studio environment. If you need to light up a large subject with fast recycle times, you need a set of monolights.

Speedlites can work just as well as monolights in certain situations, but you pay a hefty premium for the added portability. IMHO, Speedlights and monolights are merely different tools for different situations. One isn't necessarily as substitute for the other, and arguing that one is better than the other is silly.

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Never said it was.

The title of this thread is "Pocket Wizards Plus III - what am I missing here?" and there is a general theme that since it does not have e-TTL it is crap, where in many of the cases enumerated, not only do these hold their own, but are cheaper and preferred.

And agreed, both speedlites and monolights have different advantages and uses, and depending on ones needs and uses, certain features will be more valuable than others.

AG said:

Shame about the BG-E6 being different pin outs though.
When the camera first got announced it had listed that the BG-E6 would work on the Mk3 but for power only.
Guess they changed that.

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Almost more than a shame. Based on what I considered "official" Canon documenation, I nearly bought a used BG-E6. I saw the change just in time to stop.

wickidwombat said:

thejoyofsobe said:

owned one for four months now have nothing bad to say about the lens itself. it's just great.

the price for lack of a tripod ring is a little steep but given what's happening with all new Canon lenses it's not out of step.
the zoom ring and manual focus ring are in different positions than a lot of lenses but after using it enough where zooming is instinctive i like the position better because the camera is more balanced in my hands.
no Canon extenders but is compatible with the Kenko. i guess results vary because i have the $130 Kenko 1.4x extender on it and even though it's reporting f/8.0 to my 60D it still autofocuses.

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which kenko? I have heard the older DG versions will AF its the newer DGX ones that are suposed to not AF
when i used my DGX one on my 1Dmk3 with the 28-300 L it would even AF using outer points at f8 not only the center point but they were noticably slower so i primarily used the center point. I dont own any 5.6 lenses anymore to test this out on tough

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C-AF 1.4X TELEPLUS MC4 DGX

No tape trick necessary. It reports f/8 but my 60D still autofocuses. It's not the quickest AF at f/8 but still accurate.

http://www.17photo.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=5260B009

I am getting my body only order from them today. Or until I chase down the right UPS truck .

So I took some shots around the house with my new 5D in RAW only to find out I can't process them in ACR or upload them into iPhoto because its in a format neither of those programs currently recognizes.

Does anyone have info on when this might be fixed/updated? Or what the alternatives are?

BTW love the camera. Glad I made the move to full frame.

Thanks.

They charged my card and status still says "sent to warehouse" for two days, i have not received a response to me email.... hopefully it will ship soon.

wickidwombat said:

21tones said:

Thanks for your response.
I'd thought about trying to reduce the size of the filter holder.
Looks like its out with the hacksaw this weekend!

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yep, I did this to a cheap plastic ebay one to stop vignetting on my 16-35 on FF it fixed the problem

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WW: Did you use an 82mm holder or an step-down adapter ?

i call that bullsh*t.. sorry.

sure everyone has personal preferences.
but not everyone on the planet is a fanboy.

you simply can not do it right with all the conspiracy freaks on the internet.. they see things and schemes everywhere.

JR said:

Even if those are JPEG, I am really impressed! Not only do we have 1-2 stops better in ISO performance, but colors rendition and details seem better at all ISOs as well. I htink it is unrealistic for poeple to expect the low ISO (100-800) of the 5DmkIII to have a smuch details as the D800. In every like for like comparison I saw the new mkIII seem better then the mkII and worth upgrading in my mind.

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Yeah, it's great if you shoot JPEG, no doubt. Detail is definitely attibutable to the new RAW conversion process, but I'm not sure about the color rendition. And that's why I've been shooting RAW for years, the benefits over in-camera processing have been very evident.

But again, those are not RAW, so maybe if you take those same 5DII files in RAW format, and convert them with DPP into a JPEG, you get similar results to the 5DIII JPEG conversion done in the camera itself.