Same for me, sent it to canon then they changed it. it's been almost a year now.. and it's getting loose again..

+1 on the ND filters.

Another alternative is to move the lights closer, and just shoot using the modeling lights.

For me Tokina, all the way. I have had the same dilemma as you when I was hunting for a UWA for my crop body. I returned the Canon 10-22, as it felt like a plastic toy beside the tokina which is built like a tank and was not as sharp as the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX Pro. Solid construction, and razor sharp. Yes that 1mm difference is what you loose if you get the tokina, but the sharpness you get from this beast is razor like ( even at f2.8 ). The color rendered from the tokina is amazing given it's a 3rd party lens. Also it gives you awesome 8 stars on street lights/light source when stopped down. Pair the tokina with a multi-coated circular polarizer from B+W or Hoya and you will love what it spits out.

The only thing that had me thinking is the lens flare. Yes, Canon controls lens flare a bit better, but it is not too bad in tokina. I have been shooting over 1.5 years with the tokina and so far lens flare has never given me any trouble. Also, depending on what you are shooting you can use the lens flare generated from UWA lens to your advantage as an aesthetic element in your composition. Also, I thought the shorter focal range in tokina might come off as a disadvantage for me when composing. So far, I have shot mostly at 11mm and wish I could go even lower/wider and not up. Tokina's 11-16mm Mark II now has a built in AF drive hence it is also a lot quieter.

cliffwang said:

Thanks for the information. I will keep my eyes on it. The good thing is Tamron provide 6 years warranty for repair and adjustment.

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6 years.... and it is better than the 24-70 I, has IS and is cheaper.... depending on how often this happens, i don't think it has put me off too much... not that i'm in the market to buy one any time soon!

You may well be correct about the authorised dealers, however when I spoke to tech support they made no mention of this, just the requirement that it was paid for in Pounds and Pence

I've found that the list of 'authorised dealers' (e-tailers) is not the easiest thing to locate, especially when you are purchasing from a web site

Annoying, isn't it...

You can set 1/3-stop brackets, and if you use 10 s timer from LiveView, you can get several frames taken from the one shutter press (may want to set 2 fps).

I plan to pick up a hähnel RF trigger, or a PocketWizard pre-trigger cable and use a MiniTT1 as a remote (most likely the hähnel as it offers extra functionality).

I think that this 100% crop of an image of the night sky may show the same issue... Just left of centre of the image about half way up you can see what looks to be a white cross. Zooming past 100% and it appears to be a white pixel which has 'bled out' into surrounding pixels. There is another smaller anomaly above and to the left again.

Just out of interest, will my 300mm fit into this case (the original leather one is near its end)?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280944711454?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_13088wt_1050

I love my 1Dx but miss a couple of things from my 5DMkII...

Does anyone know if it is possible to have a beep with the 2 second timer?

Is there a way to have the exposure meter appear in the top window when shooting in manual?

Cheers

jdramirez said:

I have to agree, I don't really see a point in this. We all know that the conversation factor of 1.6 turns a 16mm to a 24mm and a 24 to a 38 or something like that.

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Field of view changes the lenses are still the same magnification. FF gives a wider field of view, crop gives the perception of a longer lens. There's no magic magnification conversion.

why on earth do they squeeze 20 Mio pix on what really looks a decently sized sensor.
12 would have improved noise a lot, and if you compare picture sharpness off center, Oly XZ-1 looks pretty decent to me. A better lens on the G1X or a lager sensor behind Zuiko Glass will do the trick for me.

Thank you all for participating in the poll. I think it's time to close it, as it can happen that finally they would announce something before Photokina
Summarizing: we here think, that:
1. It's not important so far, because 7D2 or 70D with such specs will not be announced soon
2. Announced availability will indicate next year (so it's not avaialable this year anyway)
3. if announced, it would have
a) Less than 24MPs
b) Durability and sealing like in 7D, not better

We'll see in a few days

I'm digging the x-file nature of this discussion. I believe they subcontract Cosina to assemble their ZE lenses, which begs the question, why not subcontract them to assemble AF lenses (since they are in Japan)?

It may be boosting amazing optics but at that length having MF makes it impossible for me to focus on (even slowly) moving subjects. And this is what we need a tele most of the time, isn't it? I skip this one. My 135L does more than a perfect job. And for the landscape panos I take my 100ZE. The IQ there is enough for mortals.

Hello comrades! Clips on classic music is my hobby.
Shot on Canon 60D + Helios-40 85/1.5
Squirrel in the park - Music video HD

DB said:

How big were the original JPeG files? If you're shooting full high resolution then storing hundreds or thousands of 18MP or 21MP JPeGs then importing to Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 or Photoshop CS6 it could cause some issues, especially if you don't have a lot of RAM on your computer.

When shooting time-lapse it is better to shoot smaller file sizes. Plus what video output size is your sequence e.g. I usually output 1080p (1920 x 1080 = 2MP) which is still a lot smaller than the smallest file size on my Canon 7D

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Hmm...I shot mine with the smaller RAW file....and was nice to be able to do some post processing work on them, before making them into a time lapse....

cortezopperman said:

Hi all.
I'm looking at getting a new camera for landscapes, and have somewhere around the AU$900 mark. So, my question is whether I should look at getting a new 60d (18 megapixels, crop sensor), or a second-hand 5d Mki (12 megapixels, full frame)
Any suggestions/reasons to consider or not consider either body?

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They should both do sa good job. Having a 1 year warranty with a new 60D is a plus. Plan on buying good glass. It will make more difference than either of these bodies.
You do not need superwide for landscapes, get lenses with the lowest distortion and CA's.

rcarca said:

Kernuak said:

It's one of the darter dragonflies (Libellulidae, Sympetrum spp.), although I'm not sure which one; it depends where in the world it was shot to make a firmer ID.

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Thanks for that. I have been told it is a common darter, mature female. This was taken in Marlow, on the edge of the Thames Valley to the west of London in the UK.

Richard

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The colours match those of a female common darter, it just looked a little like there were some secondary genitalia under the wing. The other possibility, is that it is an immature male, which can lack the red abdomen.

Wiki..this is ingenious of course coming from you and Joe I would not expect anything less. Which McNally are you reading? I'm currently reviewing his video course on working with one light

Did you ever use the FTP? could use some of your McNally stuff

LetTheRightLensIn said:

bdunbar79 said:

Well, it definitely was inferior to the 1D X I have. The silent shutter was nice, but I'm probably going to take my 300 f/2.8 next time and shoot with the 1D X.

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i tried some tennis with it yesterday 5D3, seems like a LOT of misses at tennis (which seemed like it should be remarkably easier for the AF system, than soccer or football)

some might have been heat haze though, brutal heat and shooting from in stands (very close though) so that meant a different surface between me and the court, and some was definitely just me, but something seemed a little weird, kept wanting to jump back 2-4' behind a player at times (and focus on nothing, stuff behind player was more than 2-4' back) and even when they were just walking towards stands, at times it didn't seem to keep f/2.8 DOF dead on player, need to look into it more to see what the story it, i'm sure i probbaly didn't have the ideal settings and in other cases it was def stuff I didn wrong, but

I've had amazing one shot mode success with 5D3 so far (easily most accurate and precise of the bodies I've ever used for that) and it's done better than 7D under same conditions (I actually find 7D does worse than 5D2 for AI Servo more often than it does better for soccer). Oddly, not sure it's done better for AI Servo than my 5D2 yet. But I haven't really figured the system all out yet or shot more than a very little so it's hard to say. And some of the errors were my own.

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What af case did you use and also what shot priority? I found when i had shot priority focus for 1st shot and for second set to be infocus before taking the shot meant more failure too.

Great tip. Thanks! artie

Interesting... very interesting.... lets see what the resolution will be like!

transit105 said:

JoeDavid said:

Anybody else notice the complete lack of EXIF data on the images? Are they really from a 1D X. I haven't seen anything come out of my 1D X looking like that and I too own a 50/1.2L...

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Yes they are indeed from a 1dx. For some reason the metadata is not transferring to flickr. Just so there's no questions about the authenticity I'm posting a couple of screenshots from lightroom 4.1 with the metadata.

I must admit I'm pretty shocked by this happening. The 50 f/1.2 is not producing this effect on my other bodies. It is a new lens, perhaps it is the combo of lens and body. I did know going into the purchase that the lens did have a reputation for strange and often annoying "behavior" but these happenings are a little bit more than I expected.

I suspect that the problem could be with a faulty anti-aliasing filter. I'm going to attempt to return the body to the local dealer I bought it from 15 days ago. Hopefully they'll take it.

I'm a little miffed with Canon's track record as of late. Seems the last few bodies I've bought have had problems out of the box. It's a real shame.

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That is from light hitting the side of the lens. PUT THE LENS HOOD ON! here is a very similar example from my 50L from today. I've seen it happen a bunch under the right conditions. It is a sort of ghosting flare that happens when light hits the side of the lens and has nothing to do with the camera.

50L

Ellen Schmidtee said:

I shoot raw + small JPEG.

Full raw because (a) DxO will not process sRaw or mRaw, and (b) when I process raw, I want to get as much as I can from the photo.

Small JPEG because (a) often I don't need more than that, e.g. to send to family members who print 10x15, and (b) if I want more than that, I go straight to raw.

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Thanks, I have been using DxO and am planning on purchasing a license. I did not know that it does not support mraw or sraw.

also thanks to all who have responded, your information and thoughts are most helpful.