These are obvious catchlights. Any reflection off a light source will show them.

Cowboy Studio has really good prices, quality is pretty good considering the price. Bought some continuous lighting for video and am happy with it.

here is a soft box and umbrella strobe combo kit for $155
http://www.cowboystudio.com/product_p/2x160wstrobe-2x803-1sb1umb.htm

Lovely! Just fabulous.

Thas what m looking for itemized "YOUR" choices. for mid to low price

Say what items especially SPEED RINGS will fist what BOX and what BOOM + stand will carry its weight?

do you guys have such a setup?

Impressive shot considering the light conditions - well one

Does anyone has any useful information about Canon FPA-3000 iW stepper, regarding its usability and other reviews.

Nice shot - thanks for sharing

Hi,

saw this today in the morning frist. Heavy voodoo ... Very fine pictures of the aurora borealis, though the sun isn't at maximum activity we have no chance to see something in germany ...

Jörg

I went a different option and got a 600mm f4.5 canon FD lens off ebay $1500 in perfect condition and an edmika adapter, i'm still on the lookout for an FD TC for it but optically its awesome and almost 2 stops faster than the 300 f4L with 2x TC on it not to mention the 300f4L wit 2x will only AF on my 1D anyway the 5ds are all manual anyway

EOBeav said:

So let me get this straight. Cloud-filtered sunlight and shade are cooler than standard strobes, so you want to cool your strobe to match the ambient. Similarly, sunlight and evening light are both warmer, so you want to warm up your strobe light to match that of the ambient.

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Exactly. Or as I like to put it, "Make sure the light coming out of your flash is f-ed up in the same way as the ambient light." Then, when you make corrections in post, both the ambient lit parts of the image and the flash-lit parts correct equally, and the result should look fairly natural.

I work fairly frequently in rooms lit with tungsten light, about 3200K. The full-CTO is a frequent flyer under those conditions. Also remember that balanced colors are only half of the equation. The other half is to soften or diffuse the light and have it coming from a believable direction. Somewhere off camera is usually much better, depending on your situation and the look you want.

Many thanks for the kind comments.

There is a story to go with the photo. We had watched this leopard for an hour. It sat first under a tree and it was at that stage I (very fortunately, as it turned out) fitted the 1.4x extender to the 300mm f.2.8L lens I was using. After jumping into the tree (and disappearing) it then jumped down again and went to drink at a nearby lake. Following that it climbed on to a small, grassy mound near the lake. I never considered that provided sufficient cover for stalking but a small herd of spotted deer approached the lake to drink, quite oblivious to the leopard's presence. The leopard took 16 seconds from starting stalking to impact with its victim. (The impact itself was behind a bush that obscured my view so I did not photograph that.) It was then another minute until I took the final shot (attached) - which is why we did not see the leopard eating.

I hope this answers all questions but if you have others just let me know.

Stephen

ahhh good to know thanks

I love disney, we live right in Florida, so we go over for a day or 2 just about every other month. I find it to be a really good street shooting places, and that is where I always test drive my new gear . I never carry lots of stuff, because then you just miss the Disney atmosphere. I never bring a gimp, but I dod bring my 75-300, sometimes just to go light.

If photography is all all about the photo and the mood, why not
Use a prime, it turns into a run and gun style for me, and I get some stunning photographs.

Save up a bit longer and invest in the 70-200 2.8 non IS if you can. The extra stop of light will come very handy.

Stephen_C said:

What an extraordinary coincidence: I think we were at the same sighting!

(Canon 1D MkIV, 300mm f/2.8L, cropped)

Stephen

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This is more or less the same composition. Shooting Date/Time

15-01-2011 09:44:21
Tv 1/500
Av 7.1
ISO Speed 800

I don't shoot Golf myself (well, photograph Golf), but I had this page bookmarked from another thread.

I thought it may come in a handy one day, and hopefully today is that day. 8)

http://blog.photoshelter.com/2009/07/fore-how-to-photograph-golf-li/

Thanks all for your replies, The cameras fine, and is one of the new generations models, the focus is spot on normally, this conference wasn't so bad, as in light, but it would hang, Im wondering if the AF is too fast and has to wait for the as illuminator off the flash to make contact to the person, Im honestly not dreaming this up, and I am surprised no one has noticed this, one thing I did notice is that the main Illuminator wasn't as bright as I used to remember, maybe a combination of things, I have my 5d3 set up so the cross points illuminate when its dark only and when it achieves focus, I wonder if anything like that would cause a problem with the flashes illuminator? hmm

Really nice shot. Thanks for sharing

Do upgrade your 5d II to III - I'm really happy with mine. 1Dx will be an overkill and you can use the £s towards more glass.

I'd suggest 135 since you mainly shoot family and travel etc where as i'm not sure how often you'll use the 400 5.6.

Happy shooting.

Thanks or sharing

Re: Polar bear and the 70-200

Gives you a good idea of the polar bear's size - HUGH!

hitobito said:

Yesterday, October 13, 2012, I checked my B & H Photo back ordered Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II (USM) lens and learned that the lens I ordered is available and the order was fulfilled and sent to their warehouse for shipping! I ordered this lens with a credit card guarantee for payment in mid July, 2012. It took three months to fulfill. I expect to receive this lens by Tuesday, Oct. 16th or Wednesday the following day. I am eagerly looking forward to using this lens. I purchased a Tamron AF 28-75mm F/2.8 II F macro (new for $500) and it was a good lens but not the quality of the Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L II lens, so I ordered the 24-70mm II lens.

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Wow, local stores have had them going in and out of stock for quite a few weeks. B&H seems to be having issues getting their quotas from Canon. I had heard that there was some friction that caused this, but heve no specifics.

smithy said:

I'm going to be honest though: the photos didn't seem to have a particularly unique look to them. I expected more, considering the lengths to which he went to be able to use the M lens on his Canon.

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Have to agree.

neuroanatomist said:

BPO said:

When I hit the test flash button it makes a loud noise and light comes out but it's not in a flash like its supposed to be.

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That sounds like modeling flash, which can be set to fire with the Pilot/Test button with C.Fn-02.

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It is, but on my 430ex2 it's more like a gentle buzz like from an electric shaver. Can't help you with the pw, but if the noise from the modeling flash is indeed loud something could be broken.

enraginangel said:

I shot a wedding a couple a weeks ago with my Sigma 70-200mm OS for the first time and I had like 90% keepers. It really is a great lens. Yes, AFMA works and yes, TCs work. However, lens profile autocorrection within the 5D Mark III will not work, but you can still do that in Lightroom.

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Cool, I was scouring the net to see what's the difference in sharpness. So far I found center sharpness is great, but the corners/edges tend to be soft. Have you felt this in your images, or are they just overstated. Personally for me as long as its not too obvious I guess its fine.