And there's no complications with the 5d3?

neuroanatomist said:

Sharper100 said:

AF Center Point: -3 vs. –2 EV = 6D is 33% more sensitive in low light

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EV, like stops, is log2. So, not 33% more sensitive, the 6D works in half as much light.

But of the two, I'd still pick the 5DIII.

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I finally pulled the trigger and got the 5DIII. The AF system is truly amazing, and capable. I am glad that I made that choice. I must admit that Neuro's comment had an impact, as I find his knowledgable comments very informative.

The price was a bit above my original budget, but I feel that I got my money's worth. It is an amazing camera......

wiggles said:

That's what I was worried about. Here's what I'm looking at used-wise. Am I crazy, or does this look like a decent used lens?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200831768761?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619

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I'd stay far away from used ones. The lens is well known for being easy to knock out of alignment, even by those who are pretty careful. Most users do not have the equipment or the knowledge of what to look for.
If you must buy a used one, get it from Lens Rentals. They test them for sharpness and issues before selling them, so you are going to get a good one as long as there is no damage in shipping.
They seem to be out for now, but you might email Roger and ask.

Awesome.

Very well captured - funny about the cops

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Drizzt321 said:

The guy had a spare 'dump' adapter which works great. Since it's a Macro lens (55mm f/2. 8) , I probably won't really care about the AF confirm unless I'm actually shooting someone. Oh, and it came with an m42 bellows as well Too bad it'll have to wait for a couple of weekends before I'll have time to start really playing with Macro.

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That sounds good. Just because 99 of 100 of the cheap chips work fine, does not mean its worth risking a $500 repair bill to save $20.
Its like the guys who got third party Li-on batteries and they did not catch fire. Therefore, everyone is safe from buying them. Tell that to the guys who died on the 747 brought down by Li-on batteries on fire.

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Err...I meant dumb, not dump. But yea, either I'll stick with the dumb one, or find a quality one.

bbasiaga said:

I also prefer the twilight feel of the first (original) picture.

The digital conundrum...because it can be changed, does that mean it SHOULD be changed?

-Brian

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Its up to the original shooter. If he wants to use PP to change the image to look like what he remembers, he should. The camera is merely guessing at the colors and other parameters based on mathematical algorithms and can be way off of what the scene actually looked like. It is not necessary to keep a photo in its out of the camera state.

Re: 1dx Shutter speed TV->M

Confirmed.

TV -> M -> TV Shutter Speed set the M Shutter Speed.
AV -> M -> AV Aperture set the M Aperture.

M -> TV -> M Shutter Speed set the TV Shutter Speed.
M -> AV -> M Aperture set the M Aperture.

More confused.

JH

I'd consider the Sigma 28 1.8 to complete the

blank
pancake
100 Macro

It is hellofva lot sharper center and corner wise than the Canon counterpart and built a lot better as well but the back/front focusing hassles and sending it back funtimes are not something I look forward to. If I knew I would get a good copy then it would be a no brainer.

To Dylan:
Hard to say. Usually, all big retailers ship the item same day as their shipped email. However, your tracking # indicates its not a regular UPS shipment. It's one on those things where the end part of shipment is carried by USPS (FedEx has it too). It has horrible tracking but to my surprise delivered faster than UPS ground (of course I have just one data point to fit to a line in this case). I hope this helps.......

Very nice considering it was a 24-105 and handheld! Kudos!

It is amazing how shallow the DoF is even at f7.1

What about looking into which of Canons compacts can run CDHK?

Something like an IXUS 1100D or Powershot SX230is have the barebones of what you need, just not RAW.

I think you are going to have to accept that a big zoom and a larger sensor means a larger camera. If you want compact and superzoom then concessions have to be made. I think the Panny you mentioned makes a better fist of this than most.

In a way its a shame there aren't any equivalents to the Minolta Diamge A2 or Powershot Pro1 any more, decent handling, decent optics, pretty nasty sensor right enough, but the current crop of HS sensors could make up for the venerable bridge cameras short comings...

But then, cheap rebels killed this segment off! T3i and 40mm?

ML isn't about most people, and neither for that matter is the 7D. It's a little bit like Eye Control Focus, the folk who hated hit seemed to forget about the off switch.

I don't need the green square or spot metering, so I don't use em.

It would be nice to think Canon would open source their firmware to the likes of ML, but then it's Canon who have to deal with warranty repairs. Given that they denied problems with their stock firmware when it was corrupting my movie files for a year, I don't know if I'd trust them to come up with a stable reliable Canon homologated version of ML.

Mother of the sub-adults. The sub-adults were photographed in January 2011. Their mother in May 2012. I was on an elephant back for over an hour. This tigress was in a cave just above me. The first image at 7.33 am and the second image at 750 am.

No Cropping.

Canon 7D with 100-400. Few minutes later she came down to mate (posted earlier as Male Tiger Relaxing 2). He was in a cave below. Video-graphed with a 100-400 and iPad 2. The elephant was all the time swaying. When the tigers climaxed they roared and that shook all of us including the elephant that was just 10 feet away.

Sibling of the male posted earlier.

Had a wonderful time with this sub-adult in my very first outing to a tiger reserve. Few seconds in the presence of a tiger in the wild is awe inspiring. I had minutes to all myself. No other vehicle/photographer.

jasonsim said:

I wonder if it really is worth it? I'd need to sell a number of my current collection to pay for it:

24-105L, 24L TS-E II, or one of the following 35L, 50L or 85L.

I'd also consider giving up my 16-35mmL II, since I don't use the wide side that much. But as soon as I sell, I bet the need will arise.

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I was thinking the same thing and then spent the whole weekend getting great shots with it that couldnt be done with anything else. It can make some truly unique images!!

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll go the 1DS3 route. I was able to live with maximum ISO of 1600 of 500D. I don't think there'll be a reason I'll not be able to take better pictures with 1DS3 on 1600 and 3200 ISOs. I'm taking RAW so in-camera lens correction isn't a problem. I can apply them later. The only thing I'm worried (or excited) now is the learning curve. 500D is so easy to use that it will be a major shakeup when I'm able to get hold of the 1DS3. Thank you again. Btw, I love 5D3 more than this 1DS3 but it seems I needed the money to buy more glass.

[quote
here's one of my cheetah shots from hol in South Africa
[/quote]


Nice crouch.

Good composition.

KyleSTL said:

For architectural photography, I am of the opinion that you use the longest possible lens (most often ≤28mm) to show everything you want within the composition and give you a 'feel' of being inside the space.

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+1
In my view this is the most useful comment in this thread. A frequent mistake made is the temptation to "show everything" in one shot, which may be relevant to real-estate photography, but not necessarily in general architectural work. In most usage scenarios, there is the opportunity to describe the location across a number of shots, whether that be in a magazine spread, a brochure, web etc. A good story teller doesn't deliver the whole plot on the first page. As architectural photographers, often our job is to tell a story.

An advertising shoot may be a bit different, with just one "hero" shot getting all the attention.

-PW

Tammy said:

i shot a few textured walls on a tripod with manual focus through live view, same ISO etc, and my 24-70L II is sharper than my 24L II in the center and the edges at F2.8 and even F4! Just like to confirm your experience as well.

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I am aware of that, but if I kept the Iso locked, then the shutter speed will drop and it was a slight wind that caused unsharpness. The ISO would not affect the sharpness too much, right ?

bearbooth said:

Hi again. I am planning to go malaysian Motogp in Oct so I figure I would go out and practise first on my 24-105 before I dive in and buy a 70-200 f4.

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Since the 24-105 does not have the option to pick between Mode 1 and Mode 2 IS, make sure to turn the stabilizer off. It's always extremely difficult to pull off a pan blur at the angle the bike is approaching you in the shot you posted. That's because the bike is heading toward you, and the focal plane is constantly changing. Consequently, the angle at which the bike is traveling and the angle at which you're panning is only synchronized for a very brief moment in time. You would have much better luck by changing the camera angle so that you're shooting more of a side profile instead of front. The shot pwalderh posted is a great example.

A few more thoughts:

- The greater the focal length, the more motion blur you will achieve for a given shutter speed.
- xxD bodies, the 5DC, and 5D2 tend to lock focus on the center of the subject, so you have to manipulate your composition accordingly to make sure the front of the bike is sharp. IMHO, getting the headlights of a bike or car sharp is as important as getting the eyes of a model sharp in a portrait. Even if the rest of the bike is sharp, if the headlights are soft, it will look like junk.

lukemike said:

There's a lot of talking recently about DxOMark sensor tests.
I was utterly shocked when I saw the results. My question is are their resolution tests accurate?
Can somebody please tell me: are these DxOMark tests right or not. Thank.you.

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I have seen so many crazy results at DxO regarding lens tests that I never even bother to look there now, ever. They have weird results after weird result. 70-300 non-L being much sharper at 300mm f/5.6 than the 70-300L. It might have even been called sharper thanb the 300 f/4 prime. I think they had the 70-200 2.8 IS, at 200mm, sharper than the 70-200 2.8 non-IS, sharper than the f/4 IS, sharper than the f/2.8 IS II or something crazy like that.


That said, their sensor tests, something totally different, DO seem to be very good and definitely something to pay attention to. I go there first, when it comes to sensor data.

i just called -- she said they can do $6399.

not bad.