AJ said:

I'd leave it on. It doesn't hurt image quality. It'll steady your viewfinder which is easier on the eyes. Also, a steady viewfinder improves AF in my experience.

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Yep, leave it on. Gives AF an advantage for sure, particularly at the longest focal lengths.
Try both ways and check the % of keepers. Then you'll leave it on.

-PW

My recommendation is to find a good clean EOS 620. Takes all EOS EF lenses, has autofocus, sturdy metal body, large contrasty viewfinder and simple controls, with easily replaceable battery and lots and lots of old examples around - try Craigs List or Ebay, if not local camera shops used departments, camera shows and thrift shops. A very nice clean one will fetch between $30.00 to $120.00, depending on who is selling it and where it's selling. This was a high mid-end enthusiast camera when it came out. See" http://kenrockwell.com/canon/film-bodies/eos620.htm to learn more specific details. Generally, it's going to sell for much less than any of the pro EOS cameras of its era, or the ones from a bit later, and be almost as good performing and rugged in use as the pro models, except in autofocus performance, which you should probably not really be using very often anyway, if you really want to learn to master photography, rather than learn to pilot an auto-function camera. They don't make mid-level cameras with construction like the 620 anymore. I bought my son this camera with a new cheap "normal" zoom to go with it for his introductory photo class about 5 years ago and the thing is still going strong. The camera body was $75.00 from a good local camera store and the less than stellar 3rd party zoom lens was another $75.00 or so. Your experience will vary. And don't be afraid of getting a used beat-up looking and now discontinued model Canon EOS lens (I coundn't find one when when my son needed it); if it works properly, the bad cosmetics are only acting in your favor, lowering the price for you because many others would be too worried to take a chance on the bad cosmetics.

If you want even better construction, can live without autofocus and don't mind digging around for some older FD lenses later on, get an even older top-of-the-line professional Canon F-1 - or the second series "new" F-1 - with a lens or three in a kit for sale on Ebay, or from the same sources mentioned above. That was a great camera and using it as an all manual camera (both focus and exposure) is very very easy and a great experience for anyone trying to learn the actual craft of photography for the first time.

Whatever you do, don't buy one of the later, flimsy plastic EOS Rebels, which were comparatively poorly constructed and not as nice in many other ways.

Regards,
David

Touche!~

Are you using Canon batteries or 3rd party? I've found 3rd party will cause the battery icon to flash and show 100% until firing a shot, then it reads correctly, but I suppose there could be other issues with different 3rd party batteries.

I have the bg-e11 and haven't had your issue other than when 1st turned on as described above.

This same thing happened to me tonight. I was setting up and started doing some test shots which worked fine then at some point I got "ERR" on the LCD and it asked me to take the battery out. I finally took off the lens and there the focus screen was. Popped it back in and shot 600+ frames without a problem. This is the first time I've had a focus screen just pop out and I've been a Canon user since the EOS-1 (film). I guess it's possible to hit the tab when inserting a lens. I don't see the tab is any different than my 1D-mkIV.

sdsr said:

You may find this experiment interesting:

D800 vs Medium Format with Roth and Ramberg

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thank you for a very interesting video

This was discussed a few days ago in a thread that dropped off.)

Desired setup at events where pre-setting flashes is possible:
Two *manual* lights high up in the "back" corners of the space high enough to paint the key areas. Radio triggers. My camera has one on-camera strobe operating in ETTL mode to fill in faces, moments not fully lit by the light coming from the "back". That light I measure in advance so know the fall off and amounts in various places around the room. This fixed lighting might at times be seen as sidelighting as I move back and forth during the event, but as the photographer I KNOW there will always be at least rim lighting. The intention is that this manual lighting will in most cases be brighter than what comes from the camera-mounted strobe as fill light.

OK, I used to do this stuff without ETTL gear. Annual reports, location stuff of all kinds. Parties, too. (fun!)

Flash-forward to current day rigs. I see the complexity of the possible answers: The timing of the flash is different. I am assuming that there will be no HSS, but it might still introduce different delays. And then maybe HSS would be needed if the event were outdoors.

But back to the ETTL issue: Can ETTL just worry about its exposure/distance calculation without allowing the brighter light to freak it out?

I am planning to buy several more modern speedlights either Canon or YongNuo to add to a motley assortment of Vivitar 285's, a Canon 580EX(not v2) and Norman-hulking-mega-Watt-second power pack or two (not used very much these days!) so I can do more events, editorial and help with my existing real estate work. New and old units will end up sometimes in softboxes, umbrellas (yuk but convenient) bouncing off ceilings. You know: the whole weird Mcgyver thing-whatever works.

So, can modern ETTL operate in this kind of mixed strobe environment? Have to all be the same brand while still set for manual and ETTL? Or free-for-all?

Thanks for suggestions...
jonathan7007

The best is going to be the Canon, but also the most expensive. The 3rd party lenses are designed to go to 180 on Nikon's 1.5 crop, so they are not 180 on Canon's 1.62 crop.

I'm sure some people would find the 70-300 (2 votes so far someone loves it!!) useful but when asked to choose between these it's not even a fair fight! The 70-200 is KING!!

Thanks guys, I'm thinking of going for option 1

You did great!!

well_dunno said:

bdunbar79 said:

Um, the 1Ds line is GONE and is no more (hint: The 1D X).

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I was referring to a 1D type body by 1Ds line, perhaps 1Dxs as NL suggests? (I know Keith is discredited for the inaccurate 1Ds mk 4 rumors but anyway)

Either case, my guess is 5D type high MP body to sit between 1 and 5 lines...

Cheers!

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We can probably both agree that it will be a 1Ds Mark IV hidden in another name

I am in New Orleans...i was driving to work along Lakeshore drive...heard a roar...and looked up and saw the shuttle on the back of its just doing a banking turn just over my head.

Wow..what a cool thing to see...unfortunately, I was on the road driving and couldn't even get my iphone of my pocket while on the road...but I did slow down, and watch it as I could, since traffic was low where I was....

I wish I'd have known a bit better the timing and path...I found out later, if I'd stayed home a bit longer, it would have come over my house and I could have gotten some really good shots with my 5D3.....

Oh well...no pics from me, but it was quite thrilling. 2nd time I'd seen it on the back of a jet..first time was in Tucson, AZ about 1984 or so...saw it being transported between CA and FL...but back then, the shuttle was a bit newer.

;D

cayenne

Indeed, a brightness of "1000 times brighter than Venus" is a bast-case scenario. This comet may very well fizzle out before it becomes visible to the naked eye. It may very well be a new comet fresh out of the Oort cloud, composed mainly of volatile compounds that easily dissipate.

However if the comet does indeed reach those optimistic predictions then it'll be visible for more than a month. Plenty of time for photography. Let's hope for the best!

Nikon tends to stockpile a camera body before announcing it. This is part of the reason for so many leaks, since printers are printing manuals and other documents to stuff in the boxes, and someone always leaks information.
Actually, I think it works to Nikon's benefit, since they get free advance advertising, and interest builds up. If only they had good lenses for FF at reasonable prices. They had optimized many of their older FF lenses for crop as well as continuing to spend resources turning out new crop lenses such that they find themselves with fine FF cameras, but a limited selection of high quality FF lenses.
Its becoming pretty obvious that FF cameras are rapidly moving to mainstream for photo enthusiasts and they find themselves in a hole.

tks
Do you know where to get them online and what price ?
Specially a site that sends worldwide, do you you know any China site that sells them too ?
I am from Brazil and mostly Us sellers don´t ship to other places, or the shipping costs more than the product it self

That af confirm ring I sold my client for R$ 40 (+- U$ 20)

tks

Aden Camera in Toronto has some great prices on Zeiss lenses right now - they are by far the cheapest I've seen anywhere.

http://www.adencamera.com/default.asp?Category=7&Manufacturer=186

You'll need to add the lenses to your shopping cart to see the price.

For those of you out there who has any experiences with the Tink Tank Sling-O-Matic 10 camera bag,would you know if a pro body camera like a 1DX with a 70-200 F2.8L MKII lens attached fit into it?

Thanks.

RLPhoto said:

Underexpose and try to recover whats left. ;D

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I hope you do not suggest anything from the dark side... ;D

distant.star said:

Simplest basic strategy -- short of bringing a pellet guns and shooting out the offending lights!

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Interesting and cheap (for the photographer only) way to fix it ;D

This topic has been moved to Third Party Manufacturers.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=9809.0

Pensador_Axadrezado said:

I'm in the same boat as you.
(I think it's best to wait for a full review on the 6D IQ and AF system before jumping to a new camera)

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Interesting. Yes, I guess we will have to wait and see.

7D is a massive amount of features for the price and with the 70 - 200 its a real win ,truly.

If money is no object get a big body you will be very happy if you can afford a mk IV or a MK III


its all GOOD gear but you know what your shooting and how it will be accomplished best.

hjulenissen said:

ecka said:

I suggest you start reading more carefully. I never said that I care more about the cow than the milk. I care about both actually.

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My initial critique was that you seemed to care most about per-pixel performance. That may be ok if you are an engineer. If you are a photographer, one would expect you to care more about the final image than the individual pixels.

Often the two will be correlated, sometimes they are not.

The thing is - if "cows" are fine then the "milk" is fine automatically, but not 'vice versa'.

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If you care about milk, then it is the milk you should care about. The cows health may affect the quality of the milk, but other factors may as well. If the shop is leaving the milk for too long outside, it may be sour. No amount of checking of the cows well-being will reveal that the super-market has a lazy milk handler.

For your reference (removed irrelevant parts):

hjulenissen said:

ecka said:

...For me it's all about camera's per-pixel color reproduction performance.

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I care about images, not pixels. People that obsess with per-pixel image quality seems to be less interested in images that I am.

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Like I said earlier, a 3 MP camera might have fantastic per-pixel performance - and poor image quality. A 36 MP camera might have mediocre per-pixel performance and fantastic image quality. If you purchase a camera in order to obsess with 1:1 displays on your screen, then by all means use per-pixel quality as a guide. If you are interested in photography for the images, I suggest using images as a guide.

-h

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3mp camera with fantastic per-pixel performance won't produce poor quality images. It will produce fantastic 3mp images. Why it is so hard to understand? :-\
If 36mp camera has mediocre per-pixel performance and fantastic image quality, then perhaps it means that you don't need 36mp for what you do. 20mp camera may be just as good and even better in term of high ISO, fps, file size, etc. Why do you need those useless, false, made-up bits of information?

Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond. Just waiting for a cheque (check) to arrive and it's time for shopping!