Excellent review of the 40mm pancake

compupix said:
I just picked up two used 40mm STM's for stereoscopic shooting. Yes, there are used ones out there already!
:)

Mine will be on the market soon enough too. I fell head first for the novelty value when it was announced, used it all the time for a fortnight and haven't used it since. Right now it's little more than a functional lens-cap. But that's just me.

It's a really decent little lens for a great price. But at this focal length I'll keep reaching for the Sigma 50 f/1.4 or the 24-104 f/4is, and soon the 24-70 f/2.8II.

-PW
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Cokin ZPro vs Xpro

i just purchased a ZPro with a 82 mm adapter ring for my 16-35 mm and so far been happy with the way it fits except the vignetting at 16-20 mm.. I am thinking of returning it and get a XPro filter kit. seems crazy expensive to get the adapter and filters but question is will the XPro universal adapter ring fit any lens ?

also will the 100 * 100 filters fit the adapter ring for ZPro ?

how do you like this filter kit against the Lee filter kits ? issue is availability of Lee and hence the reason why i m looking at Cokin..

Please share any information if you have used these kits before..

TIA

Looking for an new Camera

daniela said:
I´m suffering from an broken 7D, as my bike crashed into an car this week and the camera case and the mirror were pulverized.

Now I am looking for an new Camera.
But I do not want to buy an 7D again. The 7D was fast, but mine was suffering from bad noise and moire.

I need an fast AF, as many AF-fields as the 7D, but with an better image quality.
I take photos from birds, my children and landscape. My son from jets and at car races.

1.6x crop factor would be prefered, but is not recommended (no must).

Waiting for an 7D II???

But will it appear in the near future???

Saving money for an 5DIII???

But I own some EF-S lenses (macro, wide angle, common zoom), also some L-lenses for FF.

What is your advice?
The 5DIII is very expensive for me, otherwise I would buy it. Or wait for an 7DII...?

G
Daniela

5D3
1D3
1D4
1Ds MK2 & 3
7D

All Good options.
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Why I'm not jumping to Nikon

simonxu11 said:
Nikon's cheaper primes are not better because they are too late to the party? So this party has closed? Any new comer will always be considered not as good as canon because they are too late? That's why canon don't update these primes because their loyal followers still think they are the best even one of them has some QC issues for a long time.

I also chose canon in your poll because their long white L lenses. We are talking about cheap prime lenses for budget users here, so your poll results is meaningless.

BTW, please don't post your self portrait ;D

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Next Big Megapixel Camera From Canon - Grip or No Grip?

AmbientLight said:
You might want to add an option:
Will buy the camera even without built-in grip, but will purchase add-on grip for portrait orientation shooting.

I agree on that, a grip that you would have to add afterwards wouldnt be soo bad .. I suppose. but its worth the voting, as some people still do it.
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Chasing exposure

Heavyweight67 said:
gone are the days of just Pointing and Shooting and accepting what the camera chooses...

I'm not sure I remember those days (outside of my 110 camera at the local zoo). Skipping any of the critical steps in photography can result in mediocre images (which is a large portion of the images coming out of DSLR cameras these days, from what I can see). Exposure, composition, compression, DOF and now post processing are just a few of the critical steps required to break past the so-so looking images.

Others have given great advice and I agree that you need to learn several techniques that work with DSLR cameras and use the method that renders the best results for your type of subject matter and shooting style. Ignoring it and using an Auto mode may work sometimes, but it won't work all of the time and more often than not will result in those less than professional looking images.

Personally, I shoot to the right most of the time and zone it some of the time. My 1DX is different than my 1Ds3 and 1D4 which has caused me to slightly change the way I shoot just like using slide vs film caused us to expose completely differently based on which one you were using. :D
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Tamron 60mm macro

This lens is great. I have three of them, two Nikons and one Canon. The Canon version has a non-USM motor so it is loud and somewhat slow, but I love my Nikon versions. I haven't looked to see if there is a new USM version for Canon. If there is, I would like it much better than the version I have right now.

Of course, the lens gets a lot slower (f/4.0) at close focusing distances, but beyond about 10 feet it stays at f/2.0.
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New 24-70 L II - something wrong with mine? is this normal?

It does look bad, but this is not the way to evaluate the lens. Line it up perpendicular to a brick wall at a fair distance back, and then you can see a issue much better. Then, turn it upside down and take a image of the same view.
If the bad area moves to the opposite side, get it fixed or exchange it. If the blurry area stays in the same place, its not the lens.
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24-70 available at Amazon via 3rd party and more $$$

EDIT: ALL GONE

They have one - you are going to pay a premium but if you are desperate

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076BNK30/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0076BNK30&linkCode=as2&tag=mapsdpr-20

Mine arrives today - ordered last week from PC Nation, The lovely Pearl who works in their Camera/Optics department was wonderful to work with!

Speedlight for perfect night portraits

Not that type of portrait you might want to take, but basically it works the same way.
I have a link to some Pictures for you... I hope it is not to complicated for you too view.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.344218652339492.81001.167918769969482&type=3#!/media/set/?set=a.344218652339492.81001.167918769969482&type=3

In Manual ISO 500 F2,8 ettl-Flash FEC +1 with on Camera Flash with round Diffuser and off camera Flash with the same type
on the next picture you can see one ( at that time intentionally not triggered )
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=344224405672250&set=a.344218652339492.81001.167918769969482&type=3&theater#!/photo.php?fbid=344224405672250&set=a.344218652339492.81001.167918769969482&type=1&theater

Feel free to look into some other nights and ask what ever come onto you mind ;)
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Reverse Engineer this please

CJRodgers said:
Hey Thanks so much for the reply.

I asked in a comment on your facebook. You get soo many it was probably overlooked though. I probably should have sent a PM.

Anyways, I really like your stuff. If your ever in Leeds (I know your in sheff) give me a message.

Craig


Argh! I always try and reply - (eventually, as you can see from this belated reply!)... I just had a look for the comment and can't seem to find it... do you know what date you wrote it on roughly?

Sorry for missing it if it is there somewhere though and thanks for wanting to know - always nice when people want to know how I do things as it at least implies I'm doing something right!

Mat
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Photo competitions (PSA, FIAP)

Is it worth participating in photocompetitions supported from P.S.A. and FIAP for a semi-pro photographer or is just for amateurs.
Do they help you attracting more customers, or improve your image as a photographer? Defenitely they need a lot of money (the participation in each competition costs 20-70 USD) and they need a lot of preparation time.
What about other competitions lika IPA or Tpoty are they better concerning recognicion and image development?
Thank you

Beach Portrait

Actually, it's not a bad portrait. It however could be improved if you raise 2/3-> 1 EV stop as the shot was underexposed due to backlit scene. Turning the body to face the light will also help. Composition wide, either give it more space or closing up a bit more to avoid cutting the body at the join. It seems handicapped photo as it's cut right at the waist.
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How much saturation do you usually add/remove in your photos?

For the majority of shots, I don't alter the saturation. However, for some sunset landscapes, I increase highlights saturation in Lightroom according to what individual shots need. As a general rule, I add a medium contrast curve in Photoshop (I know, it's sometimes a bit contrived the way I've developed my workflow, but it's the easiest way to get what I want without finding time to relearn a better method), which sometimes results in oversaturation, so for quite a few wildlife shots, I actually reduce saturation after applying the curves adjustment. In camera I have it set to the Standard setting, but I shoot in RAW anyway, although I have done my last few shoots in JPEG and RAW, as one recent shoot needed a quick turnaround at a press event and I haven't bothered to change it back.
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How to Test a Lens

So I swung by my favorite camera store this weekend and tested out another copy of the 70-200mm, and it seemed almost identical in sharpness compared to mine. So I'm hopefully just being paranoid. But since I'm an amateur/hobbiest, laying down that kind of money is a big deal to me. :-)

I did get some great pictures with it this weekend though. And I'm seriously considering the 2x extender for a trip to the Caribbean I have coming up in a few weeks. I know the extenders degrade quality a bit, but the possibility of having a 400mm lens in my bag is pretty hard to pass up... even at f/5.6.

I also have a 100mm f/2.8L macro that I'd like to use the extender on, but hear I would need an extension tube. Haven't been able to get a straight answer on the size of the tube needed though... anyone have experience with extenders and macro lenses?

Thanks for all the help, guys!
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