I would say it's dirt. I went through the same thing with a 5D Classic back in October. Went to a local camera repair shop, they couldn't clean it, and I couldn't do it as well, wasting $$ on cleaning fluid and such. Sent it to Canon, they cleaned it just fine.

One question: if he tries cleaning himself, do the dust particles move around, or are they in the same areas? For me, the particles were always there, but when I tried cleaning they moved around, they weren't always in the same place.

Hope that question made sense...

Actionpix said:

The best thing to do is just to invest some extra money in a wet cleaning set. Shooting for years portraits without a problem and suddenly discovering you have a problem when stopping down the aperture and not being able to fix the problem quickly yourself sucks. So just get a cleaning set.

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I did that when I had the issues with the 5D, but I couldn't clean it for the life of me. So I sent it to Canon. Unfortunately at the time I was NOT a CPS member, so it cost me about $200.

I'm very sad that I don't have the Mark IV, but in the end I'll feel better knowing that it got some maintenance. Hopefully that's the only issue they'll find.

Thanks all!!

Can you tell us what huge difference in quality it would make. What are you comparing it to? The 36mp D800?

Re: 5D Mark III/X Variation & New Flagship Speedlite? [CR1]

simonxu11 said:

Can I just say Canon and Nikon treat their non-pro consumers quite differently?

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you can and should

psolberg said:

awinphoto said:

Point taken but the same could have been said about the D700 and D800 and nikons flagships... To the point, there are those who will want and need the size/build/etc of the 1d series and will never look to the 5d series... and visa versa... there will be 1d shooters needing a quality baby brother they can take with them that's less conspicuous vs the 1d seires but be able to shoot with it without missing a beat. Plus Canon knows the market share of photographers, even pro's who can afford or will shoot with 1dx's are far smaller, even a fraction of those who shoots 5d series and with the gantlet of the D800 being thrown and most definitely sony will throw out their version, so canon needs to do something to keep 5d shooters 5d shooters.

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The nikon D4 runs circles around the D800 and D700. Not sure what you mean.

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I rather have a camera that is able to walk in a straight line that would make dolyshots that much easier

KeithR said:

Z said:

But of course, this is in JPEG only...

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Anything a camera's jpeg engine can do should be achievable and then some by shooting Raw and converting/processing well.

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+1 for that! Lightroom 4 will demolish anything the 1d X can do in camera. In fact, the difference I see in my revamped images done in Lr3 to the Beta of Lr 4 shows me pretty much what to expect in terms of improved IQ. The full version of Lr4 and the raw's from the 1d X will be something else. Needless to say, I'm not so much worried. I think both DR and noise will be waaaaaaay better than out of camera jpeg.

D.Sim said:

Would help if you posted where you were? different countries/locations would have different results...

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Chicago Area

Deeohuu said:

Axilrod said:

Deeohuu said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I'd also wait until you got your full frame. 14mm is equivalent to 8.75mm on a crop. Its extremely wide.

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This surprises me. I would have said a little over 22 on a crop.

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He meant you would need an 8.75mm lens on an aps-c camera to have the equivalent field of view of a 14mm on full frame. You were talking about the FF equivalent if you put the 14mm on an aps-c camera.

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I see. But it is an odd comment. The OP has a 10-20 so he knows what 14 would look like. He didn't ask about a an equivalent to 14 on full frame. No worries.

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Thanks. All comments are appreciated as you'll never know when new information may fall into your lap - in my case realizing that a TS lens does not have auto-focus - thanks to that poster!

AF is not a deal breaker, but well, it's kinda nice when you're traveling about and have kids to look after, ect, ect.

I think what so many of us are after is a consensus on the more qualatative concerns of a product such as: "it's my favorite, and never leave home with out it" or "I purchased it thinking it would be really cool, but now never use it." ... or some of the more unexpected - "It blew me away on the 5Dii, but on my T2i, it's really no better than any other old lens because the camera cannot take advantage of the additional expensive glass".

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I was lookiing at one in our local camera store yesterday while trying to pump the salesman about any new models. I seldom use my 15mm FE, so it would be a very high price per image lens, maybe one to rent for a special use.

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That is what has been holding me back from getting this lens too. I'm afraid it would just become a nice toy in the bag after a few weeks...

Even if it was distilled water and the battery was removed, I wouldn't even think about doing that.

And I have that camera, the lens, and the watch.

Thanks a bunch guys!!

Marsu42 said:

How do you know you'd void your warranty w/ magic lantern? The installer only sets the bootable flag in the flash rom, and you can turn it off anytime you want. And even if not, I've never read of anyone in the ml forums who said a warranty repair was refused because of the flag being set.

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Great to know this! I m going ahead and installing Magic Lantern. My Saturday project! Thanks!

skitron said:

Also they mentioned the thermal performance of the 50D in video mode has not been fully tested so something to be aware of.

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I am a dedicated fan of ml and wouldn't want any camera without it. However, you really have to have cpu-intensive features tested or your processor might overheat - this is actually the one thing that can kill your camera. On 60D, this is not a problem because of better in-camera power management, but for older bodies it seems to be.

briansquibb said:

Have you mis typed this - you seem to be saying that 2 lens at f/4 will have different shutter speeds

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I tested it out, and my assumption was incorrect.

At least in daylight photos, both my 16-35mm (@17mm) and 17mm TS-E at f/4 and ISO100 needed a 1/125sec shutter speed to get the exposure meter to come out the same. In very low light, I still thought I saw a difference between different lenses when using the same ISO and f-stops.

I did do one test in December that I should upload the pictures that showed the sharpness difference that you get by stepping down a 50mm f/1.2 lens in low light compared to 50mm lens with a slower f-stop rating.

And with the faster glass, you still have the option to drop the aperture in order to raise the shutter speed at the cost of depth of field.

Juvenall said:

The 60D is *extremely* tempting since the Canon Loyalty Program would let me snag one for something like $640. That gives me an extra $500 for that 85mm I've had my eye on. I'm only really leaning towards the 7D over that because of the AF, build quality, and weather sealing (with two kids, everything ends up splashed sooner or later lol). The slightly large size of the 7D is a minor perk, but a very nice-to-have since I have sorta long, wide hands.

I really think getting something really wide and fast is going to be the next bit of glass regardless of body. My 15-85 is great for what it is, but at 3.5 on the wide end, it hasn't been as versital as I expected. So I'm giving a good, hard look at the 28mm f/1.8, especially if I stay on a crop body.

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Another thing that might be a factor is microfocus adjustment (MFA). 7D has it, 60D does not. This would be a bigger factor if you have faster primes. I totally agree with getting a fast prime for indoor use. Even 2.8 is not fast enough, but 1.4 usually is. I borrowed a 50 f/1.4 and found it too soft wide open, but that model has worked well for others. If your 50 f/1.8 is fast enough, then the 28 f/1.8 should work for you. I opted for the 35 f/1.4 and that has become my defacto indoor lens.

D.Sim said:

briansquibb said:

D.Sim said:

briansquibb said:

D.Sim said:

Jim K said:

I think Canon is stuck going with an AF lens. That's not what I would like but I think that's what will happen.

I would like to see a choice. Body only, 24-105 kit or new 24-70 f/2.8 II

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Aren't they all AF lenses?

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Not the tilt and shift

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Oh yeah, you make a good point... forgot those were manual only... :-[

but arent all the listed lens choices AF? *runs*

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... one option is 'other' ...... :

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I will never win :'(

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Thats because you are too realistic. Try playing dumb, but then you are up against Professionals

EOS 5D Mark III said:

So if the new EOS 5D has the iFCL metering I will not buy it! :'(

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and who cares?

oh.. hmm.. I had checked bhphotovideo first, where they're crazy expensive. At amazon, they aren't that much more after tax, so it's nothing particularly mind-blowing.

cfargo said:

With the Canon 100-400 L, you can get good ones or bad ones. Just yesterday I compared my 100-400 against my friends on the same camera in the same lighting with the same exposure and both set to approximately 300mm. I did this while doing some AF Micro Adjusting for a him. My lens is too soft to AF Micro Adjust as you can't find its sharpest point his on the other hand isn't bad at all . When I do AF Micro Adjusting, I convert the images to embossed which helps you see what is sharp and what isn't.

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I ended up sending my soft 100-400 in to Canon for repair and they fixed it. I'm not too happy with myself as I should have done this back in 1999 when I first bought it instead of living with the softness. I now have a very usable lens just in time for them to come out with a replacement.

Thanks Canon for making my lens sharp (under warranty)!

Thank you for the replies and for showing me that previous forum topic! Very helpful!

stabmasterasron said:

High speed sync is cool if you are trying to use really high shutter speeds, for example to freeze motion, or trying to reduce the exposure if you are shooting into the sun or another really bright light source. I have tried to use it a few times with my 430ex ii. It is fun, but I honestly don’t find much use for it. Maybe others do.
The commander mode, if you have, or rent other flashes to use in a multiflash setup is important. I get around this with the ST-E2 controller. The Yongnuo ST-E2 is just like the canon version.

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If you're using flash, you wont need the high shutter speed to freeze motion - the flash would do that. Far better than the shutter can, I might add...

Personally I'd go with the Canon speedlights, the 430 isn't overly expensive, the 580 is better. If I did have to go third party, it'll be Nissin, but I still can't get over the fact I'd have basically using a pack of instant noodles to flash...

>.>
<.<

Anyone with 61 AF and less than 30MP is fine

Cannot be trusted, it was there since May 2011
This is the source:
http://www.cameragearguide.com/3395/rumor-canon-eos-5d-mark-iii-released-in-may-for-canon-expo-2011-in-shanghai-china-we-doubt-it/

"To actually reap the benefits you require light levels in excess of the good, old TV studio, no high sensitivity scenario unless you can cut light spillage and pollution by the equipment itself below moonlight levels. Not that working would be easy when the crew can't see a thing"
What are you even talking about? Did I say anything about getting things down to 1 lux? There are plenty of great things being shot in lower light now than ever before and it looks amazing.

"To actually reap the benefits you require light levels in excess of the good, old TV studio,"

You're wrong. haha. people shoot things in TV studios every day that look amazing on camera.

"you need about 4k-16k lx to use the whole range sensor."

First of all--I'm talking about future technology... so it can be whatever we want it to be. But in all honesty, if you have data to back up those numbers I'd actually be interested in seeing that and what it means to "use the whole range sensor."

"Ironically neither DR or DOF were unsolveable problems in the first place - even that last millenium consumer camcorder could do wide angle/shallow DOF/TS-effects if you knew your toolkit.
I don't see that many people taking actual advantage of raw video, quite some temptation to not do your homework but fix in in photoshop aside."

I never said anything of the sort that you couldn't get good images out of older video technology. I used to shoot on IMX videotape and I'm well aware of how good you can make it look. But it's easier now. Highlights don't clip as badly. Sensors are bigger and so you can get a shallower depth of field more easily. A 2/3 chip only gets you so far.

Honesly Lawliet, I enjoy a good back and forth but please stop putting words in my mouth. A pissing contest isn't what I'm looking for.

I have used multiple cheap batteries for my Canons for the last 10 years. They have worked just fine. How many laptops of the millions out there have gone up in flames? I'm sure it's not that many. How many cameras have blown up or caught fire? Never heard of one, but I'm sure it may have happened. I'm willing to take the risk. Look at the hundreds of reviews on Amazon on the LP-E6 replacements. There may be some poor ones, but nobody has had a damaged camera or even had a camera on fire from what I have seen. I just bought another Sterlingtek LP-E6 from Amazon, it works great just like the others I have. Of course we all have our own opinion on this topic.