West Somerset Railway

Thanks for the replies. For the first two, I deliberately did a combination of closeups and wider shots (I also have others). Some other people prefer the second because some of the distracting elements of the workshop (particularly the fire extinguisher, which I have another without it) and the closeup nature of it, it just proves how much it is down to taste. The third one was a bit more challenging, as it would have taken too much time to set up more complicated lighting, particularly as I'd have had to borrow someone elses, as I don't have lightstands, umbrella etc. (I rarely do portraits and they're on my list). As a result I could only use bounced flash, which still resulted in the hotspot. I could probably work on it more, but it was a pretty quick edit for a quick display on Flickr, before I put the originals on disc. Likewise, the copyright notice (not a signature) was a quick insertion, enough to make anyone wanting to steal it do a little bit of work, so I just wanted them vaguely visible, but it didn't matter how much. Normally, I would upload to my website first, then transfer from there, with a standard copyright notice that is more intrusive and automatically applied as part of the transfer. It's not meant to be pretty, but functional. These however, don't have any commercial value at the moment, due to lack of releases, because they were part of an agreement for access to areas not normally accessible. Therefore, there is unlikely to be further opportunities for a reshoot.
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How to take more than one photo on self timer with 5D Mk III?

I recently purchased one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Vello-Wireless-ShutterBoss-Remote-Connection/dp/B005GMVGGE/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1345655076&sr=8-21&keywords=canon+timer

And it does what you mention and more...I got it for interval shooting for time lapse....works wireless or wired if you wish, so far I have NO complaints about it....

The wired one only....is about half the price of the wireless one.

HTH,

cayenne
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smashed 24-105 F4 L Lens front element

Dropped my 70-200mm f/2.8L II about 18 inches onto a hard surface a a couple weeks ago whist taking out of my bag... started unzipping before the bag was down on the ground! Lens hood was on (reversed) and got scratched up a bit. And my heart was broken when I saw a small dent and scratch on the barrel at the rear of the lens. Lens seems to work fine and images are still sharp but will definitely be sending in for a check up and replacement of the dented section if possible. :'(
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Paranormal Activity: Levitation

I'm not sure if this post is the right category...
Anyway, I was looking around some old photos, and I came across these ones ;D
They are a bit old, from before I really got into photography. But it made me think that I should do more of those fun photo-sessions doing crazy things. I miss that.

Did you ever or do you still do fun/crazy sessions?

Cheers

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Big Megapixels Coming Soon? [CR1]

paulrossjones said:
M.ST said:
It´s true that the 5D Mark III is only better in speed and AF.

But I don´t like the image quality from the D800E. In my opinion it´s not advisable to put more than 30 megapixels on a FF chip.

If you compare the image quality from the D800E with the image quality of a medium format camera the D800E loose, because the image is totally unsharp. But it´s all a question what are you willing to pay for the best image quality.


in what way are the d800 files lacking?

in all my tests the d800 absolutely leaves my 5dmk3 files for dead. far better dynamic range, especially in the darks. when the darks are lifted, the file just lightens, doesn't have any of the ugly clumping canon grain.
I have only tested up to 1000 iso (the most i ever need) , and the d800 looks better then as well- more film like in the grain. The 5dmk3 has a terrible low light quality- especially when the light has a colour cast.
the resolution is a lot more, upsizes better.

if you test the cameras- you will see that more than 30mp does hold up with sensor. the files are sharper, the graduations are smoother. have you actually shots both cameras side by side?

i also have a 60mp phase back on a contax, and although this is sharper than the nikon, i think i prefer the d800 files for the look over the phase (that has the same horrible low dark grain as the canon).

also, the tethering into a macbookpro retina with usb3 is a lot faster than the 5dmk3/usb2 - even though the files are almost twice the size.

I have tested a rented d800 for 2 days now side by side with my mk3, and file wise i can honestly sat the nikon eats the canon.

i dont really like the handling or the lenses of the nikon, so im holding out for canon to come up with an answer to the d800.

paul

This is a placeholder, in an attempt to figure out this hateful "Access Denied - Security Block" issue!! DIE, DIE, SECURITY BLOCK!


Test, test, test.

I won't deny that the D800 is quite a phenomenal camera, and a game changer on some levels, however the benefits you talk about only really apply at ISO 100 and ISO 200, with diminishing returns at ISO 400 and above. By ISO 1600, the 5D III takes the lead, and actually has better DR at all higher ISO settings. The read noise only affects the 5D III at ISO 100 and 200, as by ISO 400 read noise on Canon sensors is the same as on Sony sensors... less than 4 electrons per pixel. Additionally, once you start pushing ISO, color noise really picks up quick on the D800, exhibiting in ALL color channels, which can be quite distracting. There have been numerous examples that demonstrate downscaling to normalize results doesn't do much to eliminate the lower noise advantage the 5D III has over the D800 either.

There are strengths and weaknesses of both cameras. If you need the best low-ISO beast you can get your hands on and don't need superb AF or a high frame rate, which generally boils down to studio and landscape photography, the D800 wins hands down... you can't beat another two stop of DR, and you can't beat the form factor for the resolution offered. But if you need versatility, the 5D III stomps all over the D800, despite its lackluster low-ISO performance. And that is nothing to say of Canon glass (which has improved tremendously over the last few years, in my opinion surpassing Zeiss as some of the best glass on planet Earth), nor the superior AF capabilities of Canon cameras, especially 61pt AF bodies, when paired with NEW glass (check LensRental's recent blog series on AF performance, and note the improvements in consistency and accuracy of AF when new lenses are paired with new cameras... the 1D X, 5D III, and 7D... its as accurate as the best manual focusing using maximum zoom on live view, which is about as accurate as it gets).

We could also go into the atrocious Nikon customer support that has plagued those early D800 adopters unlucky enough to get stuck with one of the nasty green-LCD bodies from earlier in the release of the D800, a problem which Nikon was and still is very reluctant to admit, let alone actually do anything about. The same green tint exists in output files to some degree, despite firmware updates, and apparently can't be fixed in post, even with hours of attempts. Thousands of customers have been screwed over by Nikon customer support, costing them hundreds of dollars for multiple return and repair attempts, along side having to jump through half a dozen hoops just to get Nikon support to even consider a repair request in the first place. Having had to use Canon service several times, I can vouch for the fact that it is worlds better than anything Nikon has ever offered... no questions asked, rapid turnaround and superb quality service every single time (although their techs are about as nerdy as they get, which often results in some rather... strange, if otherwise acceptable... phone conversations).

Its not just about how well a camera performs at ISO 100... there are dozens of other factors to take into account. I would, in all honesty, LOVE to have 14 full stops of DR... but I won't give up anything to get it. I like the versatility of Canon DSLR's, I LOVE Canon glass, and I couldn't live without their unwavering commitment to customer support. Canon knows they are at a disadvantage technologically right now... and they know the D800 is making waves... it may take longer than their customers wish, but I have no doubt that Canon will retaliate with something just as good, if not better, within the next year or two. They have quite a few intriguing patents up their sleeves, including a Foveon-style layered (non-bayer array) sensor (something that could make quite a few waves itself... )
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anyone have any cures for lenses fogging/dew during astrophotography?

I live in the Caribbean, and humity and condensation are constantly a problem. Some techniques we use are heat the cameras front lens with the cars heater. Leave the camera bag outside to get used to the temperature outside before your remove the camera. Don't bring the camera into an air conditioned car or room, but if you must, put it in a cooler ( they keep things warm too)
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What to tell a newbie?

Z said:
hhelmbold said:
I advised about 3 or 4 people in the last week to buy Nikon, and it really hurt! I still love my Canon gear, but Canon left a deep scar with the delays of the 1D X, the delays in the 5D III and now the EOS 650.

Why did it hurt? Brand loyalty won't improve anyone's photographs. On the other hand I would say there is no clear winner between the 650D and the D3200. The D3200 has more pixels and better DR (the standard 'Nikon advantage' these days) but just 1 of its 11 AF points is a cross-type versus all 9 of the Canon's. Plus a flippy-outy screen and pseudo-video autofocus might be important to a beginner.

Maybe in future you could forego any sense of guilt by telling them that the two/three/four obvious choices are the 650D, D3200 and whatever else, and that they should go to a camera store who will allow them to play with each of these cameras for a bit, to see what fits them best. For a newbie the feel of a camera will be more important than the megapixels or dynamic range - and they might just prefer shooting with the Pentax after all.

Indeed, especially since the Pentax will have good image stabilization built into the camera.... I was a complete and clueless novice when I bought my first dslr a couple of years ago, a Nikon D3100, but fairly quickly switched to a Pentax K-5 and, a year after that to a Canon 5DII (plus a Rebel t3i as backup) - each better than its predecessor, and not just because I've become less clueless along the way.

So I still have a pretty good memory of what it's like to be a complete novice and despite that don't really know what I would recommend if someone asked me. If I knew for sure that they wouldn't want to upgrade to FF and wouldn't ever want to spend a lot of money on lenses, no matter how good they were, it would be easy enough to recommend Pentax. But it's almost impossible to predict such things - you don't really know until you get into it how much you might like doing low light photography (if you came from a point-and-shoot, how would you?), whether the effects obtainable via shallow depth of field appeals, or how far in you'll want to zoom, etc. So it makes sense to buy into a brand that gives a lot of options, both its own and third-party (Sigma & Tamron make far more lenses for Canon & Nikon than they do for other brands, DxO has proportionately far more modules for lenses that fit Canon & Nikon cameras, etc. ).

Between Canon & Nikon it could well be a toss-up (if I could afford it, I would probably want both). At any rate, it's not clear to me that a 3200 is a better place to start than a Rebel; a newbie who doesn't care about ISO etc. will likely care even less about dynamic range, especially the relatively slight differences in question and especially if he ends up knowing how to get exposure right in the first place (I don't know about the 3200, but my Rebel does that better as a matter of course than my 3100 did (as does the 5DII, of course)). But he might care that, like other low-end Nikons, the auto-focus won't work on some otherwise appealing Nikon lenses, whereas all Canon EF-S and EF lenses will work just fine on a Rebel.... (And he might, if he reads enough reviews, conclude that the D3200 isn't a better camera, period.) In any event, given all the Canons I see around the necks of tourists every day (they seem to outnumber Nikons), Canon seems to be doing rather well among newbies (yes, I know, that's hardly a scientific observation).

Ultimately I don't think it matters much. If a newbie likes the camera he buys and doesn't really get into photography, he'll be happy with what he bought and stick with it; after all, the differences among photos taken with any of the cameras under consideration will be pretty trivial to the non-obsessive, and the standard is very high. And if he does turn into an obsessive for whom these differences turn out to be important, it still doesn't matter much if he decides he should have bought into the other brand because - as I have found out twice - jumping ship isn't really that expensive. Unless he bought the latest camera body at its highest price, chances are he can sell what he initially bought for almost as much as he paid for it; any "loss" can be justified because he will nevertheless have taken some good photos and learned a lot in the process.
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Going to FF from APS-C, need lens advice

I've just gone from 7D to 1Dx.

Dont plan anything untill you see how the 70-200 performs on the FF. With the 1Dx the focus is so fast and so good it has really surprised me. So if you want to you can crop harder. AND with the 2X it is still as quick as the 7D with the lens only, well that's what it seems like to me.

So my advice is WAIT and try it for yourself before you do anything.
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FlexTT5 and 5DmkIII

jgunduck said:
briansquibb said:
It is the 1DX compatibility that I want.

Me too. I now have a 600, a 580exII , an einstein, and 2 B800's that I use 3 flextt5's, a mini, and power MC2 that I can not yet REALLY use.

I have to set the strobes to trigger using the eye on them. inside that is fine but outside it can be tough. my triggers stacked together right now are a $900 paperweight lol.

You *can* use the MiniTT1 on the 5DIII to trigger Einsteins with the PowerMC2. I know because I'm doing it. The only thing is that the AC3 ZoneController won't work if you have it piggybacking on the TT1/TT5 that's on the hotshoe. It was working fine in version 6, but after they released 6.021 beta (and all later releases), it killed the AC3 functionality with the 5DIII.

But it will still do basic triggering.

Although, what I was doing as a workaround if I wanted to use my Einsteins+PowerMC2 with remote power output control, is putting the TT1 on camera, and then placing the AC3 on a FlexTT5 in my pocket. Then I simply did the power adjustment on the AC3+FlexTT5 in hand. Since the TT1+5DIII wasn't sending any power settings even with the in-camera FEC, my AC3+TT5 settings weren't being overridden.

Not optimal, but it works and I can use my 5DIII and not have to fall back on my 5DII.
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