The sensor readout is too slow, for now, only the 1DXII sensor is capable of it besides the Cinema cameras.

And anyway, Canon firmly determines what you can get and at what prices. So don't expect getting features like this and without paying significantly more money for it, it will slowly show up in lesser cameras in later generations as technology evolves, but it will take several years (the cheapest camera where it may show up is a TOL crop sensor camera, like a 7DIII or something).

Michael Clark said:

2. NO ONE HERE IS ARGUING THAT A FULLY ARTICULATED SCREEN WOULD MAKE A CAMERA LESS RELIABLE.

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Because I can’t help myself, I’ll make that argument. Reliability engineering lives in the domain of statistics. The more failable parts of a system, the less reliable it is.

As it affects predicted MTBF, an articulating screen might be on the order of minutes in thousands of hours, but it is a non-zero affect.

Got the RP yesterday, getting used to the EVF but so far I like it. Impressed at how such a small light camera can shoot FF. Looking forward to doing some traveling with it.

Larsskv said:

I updated the RF 24-105 a couple of days ago. I downloaded from Canon, and the download consisted of pdf-installation guides in different languages, and the actual firmware file. I dropped the firmware file onto the SD card (which first was formatted in the camera). When you go to the “firmware section” in the camera menu, you can view the firmware version for both the camera and the lens that is attached. The camera will notice it if you have the update-file on the SD card, and it will ask if you want to update the firmware of the lens. Make sure you have enough power on the battery, and then go. I estimate it took 2-3 minutes to complete the firmware update.

The camera warns you to not touch any buttons or turn off the power during the installation, so one should be careful.

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Thanks, excellent that means the R can be used for lens firmware and the rest is exactly the same as camera firmware. Typical seamless Canon

Beautiful series. I especially like the first picture.

On a 5DIII...this mk 1 lens still rocks:

DSLRs are totally obsolete, that's why, a minute ago, I just ordered a totally obsolete brand new 5D IV to replace my 5D III.
For macro and vintage lenses, I'll buy someday an EOS R hi -resolution.
But nothing presently beats an optical viewfinder (had an EOS R, but the "exotic" planned RF lenses deserve muchas MP)

SaP34US said:

What is lowest cost that you think that FF will get down to?

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You can get a 6D in that price range, I don't think they are manufactured any longer and do not have DPAF, but until inventory is gone, they can be found for a low price.

The cheapest current production FF is the RP, it has a MSRP $100 less than a 6D MK II. If you want to know when it will be priced at under $1,000, that depends on sales and demand. Unless there is a total decline in ability to sell them, Canon is not going to cut the price that low for 3 -5 years, not until its like the original 6D, ot of production and replaced.

criscokkat said:

Well, that wouldn’t be a kit that the big boxes would sell, but we’d see it at camera stores. People used to buy kits with the full frame lenses all the time with the 7d and 7dii.

Like I mentioned, i would suspect that the main kit would be the 2 lens Efs kit with adapter. But giving people the r mount means some of them would buy r mount lenses (certainly the 35mm would be in range of some) and would cement its spot as “an entry level camera that you can grow with”. Even if 95% of everyone buying them will never buy another lens, 50% of them will think “Maybe I will”. If I could buy a 7d speed aps-c r mount I would buy a kit with that lens, then use one of the wide efs lenses.

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The 7D/7DII are much bigger than the SL1/SL2 though, and they're not sold with the advantage of "well they're small". The 7D series is about AF performance; the SL series is about being small. I can put my 24-105 on my SL1 and it's ridiculous, and I might as well use a bigger body. I really hope they don't do that.

Kit Lens Jockey said:

I appreciate the suggestion. I did not realize it was USB out to a computer. I thought it was HDMI out. But, I don't really want to throw another piece of hardware into the mix. Seems a little counterproductive. Thanks though.

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The Game Capture is a good piece of hardware. It is made for using for long periods of time and is not that expensive.

and with sound it doesnt sound as camera .
They just think you farted

I actually have similar question, back in the days 4/3 system claims they decide with the form factor because they can make light hit the sensor at right angle, so the shorter flange distance for mirrorless in theory would degrade the peripheral IQ.

Micro lens modification might help improve that but I bet it comes at a cost for other focal length other than the ones they optimise for, maybe software fixable though

Another Sigma 150-600 C owner here but since updating to the latest firmware has anyone noticed "Moderate View Mode" no longer shows a steady image in the view finder?

RC said:

Yuck! Two things came to mind as I was reading your post:

1. It sounds like a condition when a battery dies during the firmware upgrade which I'm sure can't be good. Have you checked your battery or do you have another one to try?

2. Your firmware download is corrupt and choked at the point of failure. Or along the same line, your CF card is corrupt or needs formatting/replacing.

Assuming you can get power back to your camera, download the firmware again and place onto a different card--might be worth buying a quality card if what you have is questionable. Ideally the card needs to be formatted with your camera and not your computer if that is possible at this point.

Some other things you have probably looked at but just in case you haven't:

1. Is it possible there is something in your battery chamber, a shread of paper or something which is blocking one of the contacts? Just maybe it was coincidentally that you lost battery connection when updating
2. Is it possible you have a bent or damaged pin in your CF card socket. Again this would be a coincident but since the card was just pulled and reinserted prior to the failure maybe.
3. Check your battery with a multimeter.
4. Carefully clean your camera's electrical connectors.
5. By all means call Canon

Please keep us posted on the outcome, we would love to hear the cause and solution.

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Did you try to post this on Canon's official forum? Maybe more bad publicity closer to home will get their attention, like whenever someone complains about Adorama some helpful PR person will drop on you and include a gift voucher just to get you off their backs.

Where is the link to the firmware update file. Both links point to sales pages.

Found it: https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/...rf-24-105mm-f-4l-is-usm?tab=drivers_downloads

Thanks for sharing.

Taking a look at that 24-70 IS - notice how it's zoomed to 70mm, but there's no extension of the barrel...is this an internal zooming lens?

I'm willing to bet the 70-200 is not one though. Actually, its design reminds me a lot of the EF 70-300L, a lens I like quite a bit actually due to its compactness. I can actually just squeeze the 5D and 70-300 into my regular-size camera bag whereas for the 70-200 2.8 and 100-400 I need my extra long bag...

Our exclusive affiliate partner Adorama is having a 48 end of winter sale. There are savings on an array of photo-related products and much more.
Check out the deals at Adorama

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Continue reading...

bobby said:

I'm going scuba diving in May and I'd like to bring a Camera.

Does anybody have any experience - especially with the G1X mark III underwater?
I think the G1X III is an interesting option for UW photography since it's got the large 80D sensor, although the G7X II's lens is supposedly better.

Does anybody have any experience with both the G1X mark III AND the G7X mark II?

How about the Canon WP-DC55 and WP-DC56 underwater housings... Has anybody used them? Are they reliably waterproof?

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Sensor size matters!!! Go with the G1X Mk III.

Thanks vojce arsovski, Click, Don and Fred

A Miracle in Hello by Paolo Dolina, on Flickr

A Miracle in Hello by Paolo Dolina, on Flickr

A Miracle in Hello by Paolo Dolina, on Flickr

A Miracle in Hello by Paolo Dolina, on Flickr

A Miracle in Hello by Paolo Dolina, on Flickr

A Miracle in Hello by Paolo Dolina, on Flickr

A Miracle in Hello by Paolo Dolina, on Flickr

So, the price war for FF is on! That's certainly good news for photographers, We need a competition for cost of lenses next.

The entry level cameras don't save a lot in cost to build, a little in multiple places adds up though. but if you sell 10X or 100X as many, that can make it very profitable

I verified the issue if I understand what you were doing.

First, metering is always on on my camera even while half pressing the shutter button or AF ON, it responds to light changes, tapping the bar works fine when not pressing the shutter or AF-ON buttons.

Tapping the Multi-Function bar to change ISO definitely does not work while I am half pressing the shutter or pressing the AF-on button. The * button locks exposure, so I did not try it.

This is either a bug or intended function. I'm not good enough to press that bar and the AF ON button at the same time, but its barely possible for me to half press the shutter and tap the bar with my thumb. I just have little control left in my fingers.

I'd call Canon and tell them of the issue. They may be aware of it and working on a fix, or they may have it as a planned feature but if they get complaints, they might change it.

A practical global shutter for large high pixel count sensors in still cameras is beyond difficult, but a lot of work is being done its really not needed for most still shots, but I'm sure that there are cases where its a issue, as in the lighting issues mentioned.

A big driver is cinema cameras, there are lots of work-around solutions using rolling shutters that almost work. Reading out, resetting, and exposing a sensor at rapid speeds using a electronic shutter is going to happen for very expensive cinema cameras hooked to very fast computers at first. With electronic shutters, the sensor is always exposed to light, so, all the photosites must be reset at the instant the exposure starts, and readout instantly after the exposure ends. How to achieve this is the issue. How do you change electronic shutter speeds from 10 seconds to 1/8000 second while a mirrorless camera is still exposing the sensor and feeding a display in real time? With a rolling shutter, the display is frozen or blanked out while the actual exposure is happening, then it goes back to the standard readout speed required for the lcd or evf.

We see patents for various aspects of a workable global shutter camera, and some global shutters exist for video cameras where the shutter speed stays in a constant or narrow range and lighting is well controlled, but getting to work for awide shutter speeds and very low light is far far off. For video its coming first.

Del Paso said:

Thanks for reassuring me, since I recently bought a very expensive Breakthrough polarizing filter !
Heliopan also deserve their reputation as one of the very best filter companies, many Leica filters are indeed Heliopans...
Why should one spend thousands of hard-earned $$$$ on lenses and cameras, to save a few $ on filters?

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I bought some Breakthrough UV filters and they seem like a good company. In fact I like the case they come in better than my other filters.

ethanz said:

And I think the amount of people who use a 400 or 600 for video is very slim. The 200-400 would be a better choice for video I think.

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Surveillance video...?

ist that 3sec for closing image stabilation on lens rather than protecting sensor?