cruso said:

not sure

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I recommend calling the company you purchased it from

Hey!
Yeah, sadly the 2000D/T7 doesn’t store the shutter count in the EXIF, so most tools won’t work.
I had the same issue and ended up checking it through a Canon service center – only reliable way I found.
Wish Canon made this info easier to access like some other brands do!

neuroanatomist said:

So was I, which is why I checked and was pleasantly surprised (in case you didn't click the link in the above post, I have corner crops of stars in there).

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I did just now. That blows away the Sigma 20mm F1.4 DG HSM! Again, thank you.

Toni said:

The most annoying thing about Canon mirrorless cameras is the focus point. With DSLRs, it was exactly one point. Now, even when selecting just one point, it's actually an area, which means it often doesn't focus where it should. It's much more imprecise than before, and this isn't an opinion, it's a fact.

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From Andre's blog way back in 2010...
"Eventually, I decided to map out crosses inside each AF point, so I can focus on the subject more accurately. I placed a white sheet of paper with a small black square on the wall and moved each AF point perpendicularly to each edge of the black square until the focus light in the viewfinder started to blink, which indicated that I reached the end on the AF cross in the given direction."

"Repeating this exercise once for each of the edges gave me four shots where the inner edge of the black square indicated the end of the AF cross in each direction. I superimposed all four shots onto each other and ended up with this picture for the center AF point."


"So far so good - the cross inside the center AF point was pretty much what I expected. Note that the cross extends well beyond the red square marker in the viewfinder, which means that if there is more detail outside of the AF point marker, the camera will focus on that detail."

"After taking 72 shots and merging each four, I had the complete map of all AF points for my 7D. Let's take a look at the second one from the top in the center column, which is the one used in the sample shot above."



"Now it all makes sense - the cross inside this AF point extends well into the top AF point and the camera focused on the detail in the background rather than on the fuzzy police bear."

And:

From Canon technical advisor Chuck Westfall back in 2008 when the 5D Mark II was introduced:

"This graphic shows the relative sizes and positions of the EOS 5D Mark II's focusing points."



And from Canon upon release of the EOS 7D:



The top map is what one sees in the VF (less the numbers labeling each AF "point")

The middle is a map of the PDAF sensor array. Keep in mind that microlenses aim the light coming into the array before it falls on the sensor array.

The bottom is a map of the areas of sensitivity for all of the focus "points" superimposed on what one sees in the VF.

To the left is a guide that indicates which pairs of lines are active for which "points" as numbered in the top map. The center cross-type AF "point" is indicated by the red shading.

Aaron D said:

Neither is correct. Think about it: two physical things at 360 or 0 degrees apart would have to occupy the same space.

Sorry to beat a dead horse...

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To answer in a slightly different way from @neuroanatomist :
In two dimensions they would be in the same place, but a lens is three dimensional.

I'm having this issue when I am shooting video with the R5M2. I was contemplating sending it in to Canon but it seems like I may not be the only one with this issue. My R3 performed flawlessly when shooting video, so I just used that for video. It does it when handholding video, I did not try it on a tripod.

It’s shaping up to be a busy June for camera announcements, and today we’ve got two stories worthy of your time: Fujifilm has registered two new cameras, and we now have leaked images and specs for the Hasselblad X2D Mark II.

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Wow, guys you are really careful.

I cycle my batteries through all cameras they fit in. Which means coming home from a shooting any battery I had with with me, goes into the “maybe empty jar” and I grab a few to replace them in the kit from the “freshly loaded jar”. I usually take on LPE6 in the camera and 2 in reserve with me. In total I own 8 of them which means 3 get loaded over the next days and 2 are in reserve for a fast grab if two shootings are close to each other. I load them with the Hähnel Procube II which according to what I learned here in the forum is the dumbest way to do, as the Hähnel does not have much in regards careful maintenance loading. I take loving care in regards to my camery but that love does not extend to the batteries. The Hähnel can load 2 batteries at the same time and I sometimes forget the batteries for a few days in the powered up loader. However after years of that unkind loading practice I do not have any dropouts in regards to the LPE6 batteries

As I currently made space in the shelves for the upcoming R7 Mark II I only hold a R7, 1DX2 which accept the "classical Canon form factor"

However that means Canon batteries from my EOS 30D, 60D, 80D 5d Mark 1 and 5d Mark3 happily power my R7 and do not show any weakness (besides the fact that the latest version LPE6nH seems to allow maybe 50-100 shots more than the LPE6n) The LPE6 batteries I use are almost 20 years old and still do their job.

My only backup battery for the 1DX2 is the one which came with my 1D Mark4 again almost 2 decades old and still doing the job.

If the Sigma 17-40 f:/1.8 is optically at least at the same level with 18-35 1.8 Art then it will sell extraordinary as the older version did! Can't wait!

I don't know about Canon's plans.

Kenko is overpriced and wobbly, but the smaller tube is only 10mm (could be useful)
Meike is not expensive but the release button seems to be failing on one of mine so not the best choice if you want reliability.
FotodioX is almost as expensive as Kenko (if you wanted to by both sizes) in terms of price, but not wobbly

Artra Lab and Vello were both out of stock when I tried before.

Canon continues to develop optical designs which utilize internal zoom setups. Internal zoom is the favoured design for a lot of shooters, as there is always continuity with the lens when shooting with it. Telescopic zoom lenses can save you a lot of space in the bag, but there are compromises when using one.

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There are differences between CPS benefits on different countries. In Canada, one big one not mentioned is early access to new lenses. I got my RF200-800 the week it was released by including my CPS # when I ordered.

Sony is just *so* Last Year.

What ever the issue was, a few blasts from a can of compressed air around the control wheel seemed to do the trick and it’s now back to spinning freely.

"...the overall experience of using the screen is cramped and unpleasant."

"My main issue with the control scheme of the X half has to do with the cumbersome nature of the touch interface. If you swipe too quickly, the screen won’t register the movement, and often tapping the screen takes a couple of tries to get things going."

PetaPixel/Chris Niccolls

Steve_FR said:

With the occupied usb-c port, only option was to add a Pixel brand N3 wired/wireless trigger, with the receiver mounted on the cage next to the battery bank. Gaff tape the remote trigger on the side handle of the gimbal for push button REC.

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Great idea!

John Wilde said:

"My main issue with the control scheme of the [Fuji] X half has to do with the cumbersome nature of the touch interface. If you swipe too quickly, the screen won’t register the movement, and often tapping the screen takes a couple of tries to get things going."

-PetaPixel / Chris Niccolls

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Thanks!

Sebastião Salgado, regarded as one of the world's greatest documentary photographers, has died at the age of 81.

Sebastião, thank you for your epic photos.

neuroanatomist said:

The next wait is for the dedicated RRS L-bracket. Neither the R3 nor the 1D X bracket are a flush fit (close, but not close enough). So it’s the generic BP-CS plate for now. I didn’t bother with their ‘universal’ L plate.

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...and the wait is over. No preorder, RRS announced the base plate and modular L-bracket for the R1 today and it is now shipping.


Looks like they're not selling the upright portion separately as they've done before, you order either the base plate only ($95) or the full L-bracket ($255). I ordered the latter about 5 minutes after getting the email.

xmarijan said:

There should be one RF-S prime as well, hopefully before summer. Canon will probably not announce anything before price adjustments take place.

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Tbh we need EF-M 22 & 32 into RF-S.... Canon is giving away to Sigma 24 & 30(and Yongnuo 35/1.8) is quite an un-Canon move

You can still use the camera in 1080p but not sure that actually saves on battery. Though I've heard this camera does run through batteries much faster than the previous models which has been my experience when renting it. I'm an R5 owner.

The SD Association is celebrating the 25th birthday of the beloved secure digital memory card. As you know the SD card took over the Compact Flash card in most small cameras in the mid 2000s and then crept all the way up to pro series cameras such as the EOS R5 series and the EOS R3.

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7DmkI said:

Maybe you should consider this.

View attachment 224007

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The owner is like those people that pat their car and say, "this car's my baby!"

YeeEeEty said:

how did you stack all of EF 2x III + EF 2x II + EF 1.4 III? I heard only EF 2x II have enough space on the back side to accommodate the protruding part of the other extenders, did you use an extension tube in between two of them?

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Yes the smallest one from Canon

ssaibal said:

Glad you like it. In my case, I never seem to arrive at the best solution without going thru multiple learning curves. I received my Think Tank Photo Rolling Camera Backpack this week and it is spacious enough to hold my Canon R5 Mk-II + 1.4x TC + RF400 f2.8 setup with the original hood folded back, RF100-500mm lens, R5+RF24-105mmF4 and a RF16mmF2.8STM hidden under the 100-500. Total weight with additional batteries is 12.5 Kg. If I take out the smaller camera setup, it is slightly above the 10Kg weight limit of some of the airlines, but this will work fine traveling thru airports/trains.

I am able to fit the birding camera setup in my 28L Matador beast waterproof backpack comfortably during hikes. To be safe, I will have a raincover along as well. See the photos attached here. These two bags will be my travel bags moving forward.

I have ordered the sidemount version of the ProMediaGear Katana Jr gimbal head for my Peak Design carbon fiber tripod. Hope they get along well once the head arrives. I should be able to carry them in my Matador backpack as well.
View attachment 222501View attachment 222502

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I am really happy with this Matador 28L backpack, really light and waterproof as well (it worked well during the rain in the Itatiaia hills near Rio). I have probably hiked nearly 500 miles in the last 2.5 months in Brazil and Argentina with the R5Mk2+400mmf2.8+1.4xTC combo in this backpack. The backpack has withstood a lot of abuse in the process. And the Thinktank Rolling Photo Backpack has worked very well as carry on cabin baggage thru regional flights where they are concerned about the size and weight. It doesn't look bulky enough to make the gate agent asking you to check it in, even though it is around 12Kgs (more than the 10Kg limit). The backup plan is to move one body and the 100-500 lens to my backpack if they want me to weigh it.