I believe this isn't to reset your password (change it to something else) but unlock your camera if you don't remember your password. That fits with an identity security system. You should be able to change password but only after you unlock the camera with the existing password. But... Forget your password and the only option is to reset the whole camera including losing all your settings.
- You can reset the password, but it will wipe all settings (including personal information) from the camera. Which, if implemented how I understand, is why it is not a theft deterrence (feature).
tennis photography no doubt depends quite a bit on where the photographer is allowed to be. however doubles is a very fast moving game. getting focus on the player about to make a play is a tough proposition. even following the play through the view finder is hard. I dont know if following a ball would work. Probably the best strategy for doubles involves multiple cameras following each of the players and utilizing precapture. At high school matches, I focus on the player across the net the view of whom is not obstructed by players on my side of net. Easy to get great shots of the cross court rally. harder to get net player action.Tennis is the easiest sport to lock focus on the player, there is no need for action priority. Same thing as Golf, and Cricket is much the same - so few players on such a big field.
How often are you shooting Tennis when there is a player in the background/foreground of the frame? It would only be doubles when from certain angles.
I have never shot American football, but I shoot Australian football and Rugby, and I have been told it could be the shape of the ball that would make that tricky. At times the camera might thing a player's head is the ball for example. Soccer, Basketball and Volleyball are all pretty simple when you think about it from the camera's perspective of identifying a ball.
And the same case applies to Hockey pucks, Cricket and Tennis balls. It could be hard for the camera to distinguish the ball from the background.
I would like to buy either R1 or R3 or R5 Mark II, but due to prices i think i have to wait, the other camera that i can think about are R6 Mark II and R7, unless if i can sell my old DSLRs then i could manage to afford R5 Mark II or R3, but i do sports mainly in the past and no birding, so i was thinking about a camera for dual usage but mainly for sports over birding and wildlife.What's the second-best camera for birds ?
The R5 and R5 Mark II are expensive.
I tried a KF cpl vnd and returned it, I've not tried anything else like one by another maker. I use a NiSi V7, True Color cpl and for what you require, a soft GND, sometimes a reverse GND 100 x 100. Stacking filters will cause pronounced corner and very undesirable vignetting.. With round filters I use step-up rings for having larger diameter filters, with an ND, cpl or more why on earth would I require a lens shade, to increase vignette to horrible unbelievable effect level ? Also and because many do this, UV, CPL, and ND stacked. "Glass" blocks UV and Alpha Radiation naturally, without any coatings applied. It should be about the light present, then you apply the filtering of what of what you want and don't want in the situation. Otherwise, a Tiffen cpl is extremely hard to top as a general purpose cpl. If you want hyper critical atomic structure in your images, then by all means buy a Lee, NiSi, or similar with one of those $750 to $1000 sets. At the other end, a Tiffen cpl and a Tiffen Sky 1b / 81a stacked, then a ND filter for landscapes if necessary and also for skin tones in portraits and street. The scene dictates the filter(s) requiredI can't seem to find a straight answer as to whether or not I should buy a CPL on its own, or a 2 in 1 CPL/VND combo?
Wow. That is a surprise.That's right, Sony doesn't allow teleconverters for third party lenses. They won't work.
Yes, hopefully nothing to worry about. There is an article on the Canon Canada site - Canon EOS R5 Mark II - Using Commercially Available Mobile Batteries / Power Banks to Charge / Power.I get the same fluctuations, probably some charge optimization thing on the Canon side. Hopefully nothing to worry about
To charge it I mostly use a “ugreen nexode 100W”, which I also take on trips. On my desk I have a Belkin Boostcharge Pro, which is big, heavy and overkill, but needed for my work devices![]()
When I was a CPS member, I received similar questionnairs, usually a few months after buying a new camera, e.g the 5D Mk IV and R5. I did not receive these questionnaires when I was kicked out of CPS (i.e. when CPS was restricted to professional photographers).I'm not talking about the survey/warranty cards that used to come with every camera and lens. These were much longer surveys that were originally mailed, then later done via e-mail invitations with links to the survey (and unique registration numbers so the same person couldn't respond multiple times), to specific users who bought/used a lot of Canon gear. Canon had their info on file because they did, in fact, return the warranty cards and/or had work done to their gear via Canon factory service fairly regularly. But the surveys I'm referencing were directly mailed to a limited number of users.
I would certainly like to see a replacement for Canon's 17-55 2.8. If Sigma did an RF 15-60 that would be a brilliant equivalent to the ff 24-105. But please make the front element largish and provide a large lens hood not the scrappy little ones as seen on some lenses. 15mm would need a big hood ...Please please, 18-35mm f/1.8 successor Sigma! The original is still great even on dense sensors like the R7, but with 12 years of technological advancements I'm sure you can make it smaller, lighter, quieter, and maybe even expand it's focal range! They made the full frame equivalent 28-45mm f/1.8 recently so it's beyond time to update the legend.
For the second lens, I'd like to see a stabilized general purpose bright zoom, like that RFS 15-60mm f/2.8 that was patented but nowhere to be seen. Since Tamron's in no rush to port their 17-70mm f/2.8 to RF for some reason, I'd love to see Sigma take a stab at a competitor.
So if you tilt your camera while acquiring focus, this reduces the dual pixel focus issue for me.It seems an advancement in technology inside the EOS R1's image sensor is being overlooked when comparing it to the modern DPAF stacked sensors in EOS R5 Mark II and EOS R3. We have had a lot of “isn't the autofocus the same?” types of comments whenever the EOS R1 and EOS R5 Mark II
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More like Darth GollumYou should change your profile name to Sauron.