Canon EOS RP body price confirmed at $1299 USD, and we’re very happy about it

Off Topic Question: Are there other taxes besides VAT? In the U.S. there is no VAT yet. Some states charge sales tax, some don't. Then some localities also add sales tax. I'm just curious about how that works. Unfortunately, I can see a VAT in our future, on top of everything else.

Most products and services only have VAT. Depending on country, there are typically several VAT classes (eg. in Finland necessities like food, drugs, and transit have a lower VAT rate). Things that generate negative externalities may have additional taxes besides VAT (in Finland this includes fuel, tobacco, and alcohol).
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Which rechargeable AA batteries for Speedlights?

I use several dozen Eneloops and have done so for years. They are so reliable and long life that I can't see the point of buying cheaper "me-too" cells.,

They do not last forever though and you won't necessarily know of a cell failure until its too late.

For that reason I have four of the Maha 9000 chargers / testers. Just the normal charging process will highlight a faulty cell and show that screen as "High". Just chuck it away.

I also do a thorough refresh on every cell every few months using the Maha units special features. Each cell takes about 2 days so thats why I have 4 of the chargers :- )

Pete
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When do you actually use face detection AF?

I don’t use it for professional work for still images. I do use it professionally for video and it’s outstanding! Video is only a small part of my work, but I rely on it for 80% if what I do.

For stills, I only use it to chase my children, or shoot family because it’s only one shot AF and movement means missed images. I make up for that by taking lots of images (unprofessional for paid work). But it works very well. I constantly move the user controllable guide over the face I want to focus on to ‘help’ the system. That’s all I have to do. Then the eyes are in focus a shockingly high percentage of the time (with f1.8-1.4).

I hope to use it professionally once it’s available in Servo AF.
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what equipment is best suited to my needs

Yup! It seems that many people are in agreement on letting this new Rtech launched by the canon mature. After today's canon announcements, I think it's clear that the canon, from now on, will bet on the Rtech. For me, EF L lenses are expensive and, from what I was seeing, RF L it's impossible to reach. Does the difference in image quality really justify the money? Or could be a good option to opt for the EF L lenses and bet on an R or RP body later? I am not rich and I also do not make a living with photography, so I am wondering if it will be worth the price difference to pay for RF Lenses. I was thinking about starting with a 24-70 F2.8 L .. What do you think ???
In your situation, I'd get the RP with the EF adapter. "L" lenses differ in that they have a better build, and have better quality at wide apertures.

There are several decent consumer grade non L lenses that can get you going, you can often find used 24-105L lenses at attractive prices as well. I'm holding off on RF lenses for now, I have some excellent EF L lenses and don't see a reason to switch to RF. I would not switch in any event as long as I also have a 5D MK IV, but I may decide to put it up for sale.

Right now, a cheap ~$100 50mm f/2.5 macro lives on my R, it might also make a cheap but decent lens for a RP as a starter.
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Canon to announce at least 6 new RF lenses next week

Okay, so a quick warning upfront: There's some friday morning maths coming up, so I'll gladly admit to beeing wrong if you can point out a mistake in my thoughts.

I'm hardly demanding it be always-on. EVERY special setting of the camera has cases where it provides poor results.
With Canon, features don't become available just because they're easy to implement and usefull for some people though. So if there are a lot of possible issues with a feature, or not many people would use it often, it's just not present in Caon cameras. It would just clutter up the menu for little benefit to the larger market. Or why else are so many Magic Lantern features not present by default? For example, a RAW Histrogramm, Focus Trap release, Focus Peaking, AF Focus Stacking, and so on, have been available there for a long time. But most people get about without them, so some features have been added only recently to some mirrorless models, or are still missing (I'd love a RAW Histogramm).

It's a good example, but a custom chip can often do calculations FAR faster than a general-purpose PC.
Yeah, you're right. Its what allows smartphones to handle 4K Video - And it still took Canon quite a while to adapt that, despite it beeing widely available technology. I image a hardware solution for content based image alignment is going to be a good deal more tricky than that. But that's again confusing the topic. I thought we're talking about blur caused by camera motion - which the camera can detect through sensors without having too look to deep into the image content. As they can obviously do that already with video frames, it surely could be done for stacks of still too.

I gave examples of moonrise, but also say just say a nighttime view of the Alps: Milky Way over the Matterhorn, say, a 10 second hand-held exposure at 15mm. [...] I grant the outside 10% margin may be unusable, with too few photos in the stack to give a low-noise approximation, but the main 80% of the image could be both utterly rock solid and no noise [...] That may be true in many or most cases today, but I don't see a rule of physics that would make it so. Happy to learn I'm wrong though if you can think of something specific.
Okay, so I'm mainly drawing info from this resource here: https://jonrista.com/the-astrophotographers-guide/astrophotography-basics/snr/

Based on that, I'm under the impression that an image is composed of signal and noise. Noise comes from different sources: The subject (shot noise), the sensor (dark current noise) and the camera circuitry (read noise). Apart from the read noise, these values all increase proportionally to the exposure time. The ratio between the signal and the sum of noise sources is called signal to noise ratio (SNR) and expresses, how visible the signal is, compared to the noise. So you want you SNR to be as high as possible. For weak sources of signal (low light), a single long exposure is likely to yield a better SNR than many short exposures.

Lets define some variables:
r = stops of image stabilization
n = number of subexposures = 2^r
t = total exposure time [seconds]
t/n = exposure time per subexposure [seconds]
s = signal per time [electrons/second]
dc = darc current per time [electrons/second]
rn = read noise [electrons]

Ignoring the difference between sky and object signal that the linked side makes, I get this formula for SNR:

SNRstack = (n * t/n * s) / sqrt( n * (t/n * s + t/n * dc + rn^2) )
=> SNRstack = t * s / sqrt( t * s + t * dc + n * (rn^2) )

For a regular exposure without stacking, n is 1 so the SNR becomes:

SNRsingle = t * s / sqrt( t * s + t * dc + rn^2 )

To find out, how much higher the SNR of single exposure image is, in comparison to a stack of multiple ones, we can devide the second term by the first one:

SNRrel(t, n, dc, rn) = SNRsingle / SNRstack = sqrt( t * s + t * dc + n * (rn^2) ) / sqrt( t * s + t * dc + rn^2 )

According to the linked page, rn = 3 e- and dc = 0.02 e-/s are decent values to assume for an average modern ILC.

SNRrel(t, n, 0.02, 3) = sqrt( t * s + t * 0.02 + n * 9 ) / sqrt( t * s + t * 0.02 + 9 )

That leaves exposure time and number of desired stops of stabilization. Looking at 2 stops, 3 stops and 5 stops and 0.1, 1, 10 and 100 second exposure times I get these four formulas, which now only depend on signal (now called x), so how bright you subject is:

0.1 second 2 stops = ( 0.1*x + 0.1*0.02 + 2^2 * 9)^(1/2) / ( 0.1*x + 0.1*0.02 + 9)^(1/2)
0.1 second 3 stops = ( 0.1*x + 0.1*0.02 + 2^3 * 9)^(1/2) / ( 0.1*x + 0.1*0.02 + 9)^(1/2)
0.1 second 5 stops = ( 0.1*x + 0.1*0.02 + 2^5 * 9)^(1/2) / ( 0.1*x + 0.1*0.02 + 9)^(1/2)

1 second 2 stops = ( x + 0.02 + 2^2 * 9)^(1/2) / ( x + 0.02 + 9)^(1/2)
1 second 3 stops = ( x + 0.02 + 2^3 * 9)^(1/2) / ( x + 0.02 + 9)^(1/2)
1 second 5 stops = ( x + 0.02 + 2^5 * 9)^(1/2) / ( x + 0.02 + 9)^(1/2)

10 second 2 stops = ( 10*x + 10*0.02 + 2^2 * 9)^(1/2) / ( 10*x + 10*0.02 + 9)^(1/2)
10 second 3 stops = ( 10*x + 10*0.02 + 2^3 * 9)^(1/2) / ( 10*x + 10*0.02 + 9)^(1/2)
10 second 5 stops = ( 10*x + 10*0.02 + 2^5 * 9)^(1/2) / ( 10*x + 10*0.02 + 9)^(1/2)

100 second 2 stops = ( 100 *x + 100 *0.02 + 2^2 * 9)^(1/2) / ( 100 *x + 10*0.02 + 9)^(1/2)
100 second 3 stops = ( 100 *x + 100 *0.02 + 2^3 * 9)^(1/2) / ( 100 *x + 10*0.02 + 9)^(1/2)
100 second 5 stops = ( 100 *x + 100 *0.02 + 2^5 * 9)^(1/2) / ( 100 *x + 10*0.02 + 9)^(1/2)

0_1 seconds.png1 seconds.png10 seconds.png100 seconds.png

Graphs created with https://rechneronline.de/funktionsgraphen/

y axis and x axis are the same scale on all four. Each image shows the graphs for each set of exposure times, which vary only in the number of stops of image stabilization (Or, duration of subexposures if you prefer that). y axis is the ratio between SNR of a single exposure image and a stack of 32 (green), 8 (red) or 4 (blue) images. If this is high, a single exposure will look much cleaner than a stack of multiple shorter ones. The x axis is the subject's signal strength (brigthness).

From the first two graphs, I conclude that for very low light subjects such as your milky way example, stacking multiple short exposures will always result in a visibly more noisy image than just taking one longer one. So this "digital image stablization" would be a tradeoff between noise and blur. For bright subjects or long exposure times, the difference probably becomes small enough to call the result equivalent in terms of noise, meaning the stabilized verision will look better as it is less blurry. Unfortunatley I have not idea, how the subject brightness in electrons per second translates to brightness as we know it. For example, if a subjects emits 200 e-/s, what exposure time would result in a good exposure for that?

So take my analysis with a mountain of salt. And keep in mind that I may have screwed up the calculation and am just talking fancy BS here. But it was fun, and on occasion I'll try to experiment with some actual images. After all, the technique here doesn't have to be applied in camera. As mentioned, there are many software solutions for aligning and stacking out there.
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Here’s the Canon EOS RP and EG-E1 extension grip

Buy a smaller body, but plug-in a extension grip to make it bigger.....Why not buy R?!
Because now you have a choice between a smaller body or a bigger body with better grip for larger hands and better balance for bigger lenses. No brainer. You don't have to use it.
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canon st-e3 rt and speed light 600 basic flash compensation question

First I'd just like to say that's a great creative use of your speedlites and it's given me some ideas already.
My only suggestion is have you tried putting several into the same group and just adjusted the distance to subject for each instead of adjusting the power individually? Then you could only need to change one group at one power level to affect several lights. Just a modest difference in light to subject distance will have the same change as a different power level.
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EOS RP vs R vs M50 vs 1DX mk2

Hi, new guy here.

I got curious to see side by side the specs of these great cameras. The recent 3 mirrorless, and the king. To me it is amazing how the king stands up, after so much time. It gives me hope about the "lasting" of the gear.

Here is the chart, in a dropbox PDF:
http://bit.ly/EOSRPvsEOSRvsEOSM50vs1DXMk2

pd. I am no attaching it, so I can update it.

By no means, I am no expert, and the chart is the result of the info available, there are few things that stand out:
Every camera uses it's own battery type, so there we go, collecting batteries.
For the EOS RP, how Canon is being more specific of the need of RF lenses to achieve 4k -kindaish make sense-

I am wondering what the P stands for in the RP.

If there is something I can improve please let me know.

Thank you for your time.

Infographic: What Happened to the Camera Industry in 2018?

The drop in DSLR sales in far higher than the increased sales in mirroless, thereby they could have cannibalized only a fraction of that. Without knowing which types of DSLR sold less (low-end? High-end? Models in the middle?), it's hard to tell.

Did phones start to eat into low-end DSLR models sales? If so they could hit low-end mirrorless as well. Are customers post-poning upgrades waiting to see how the market configures itself between DSLR and mirrorless models - especially when they have new mounts?

Canon CEO noted mirrorless camera sales aren't adding to its bottom line, but are instead eating into the sales of DSLRs. This may very well have played into the reason Canon opted to release only one mirrorless camera in 2018 and doesn't appear to be in a rush to get many more out by the end of 2019. It may have also been a factor in both Canon and Nikon taking so long to get into the full-frame mirrorless market; if all the capital put towards research and development (R&D) is only going to cannibalize your money makers, there's not much need to rush the new technology. - DPREVIEW

Looking at the transition from FD to EF mount, CIPA sales figures of the last 8 years, Canon CEO's January 2019 interview leads me to believe that the window of opportunity of another generation of DSLR refreshes will close by July 2020.

If none appears then expect Nikon & Canon to go all out for their new Z mount and RF mount full frame mirrorless camera systems.
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Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 IS STM Macro to be offered as an EOS RP kit lens in Japan

As an R owner with the lots of EF glass, the RF24~105, and the RF35, the RP will be a great entry point.
I carry my R with the 35 which makes the 24~105 feel huge. The EF50 stm on control ring adapter makes a great normal lens but my style runs more toward 35 anyway.
YES! offer the RP with RF35 and make the entry point to modern full frame photography affordable to all!
PS: I'll bet the RP will outperform the 6D-II in real world usage...
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Recommended a good versatile lens.

Buy the Canon 10-18 for ~$300, and add another $100 for ND and polarizing filters, a good tripod with a pan head and you've still got nearly $1000 for other "stuff". I'd save that money until the R line is a little more complete before making a big investment in new lenses.
24-105 was my first L.
Which is like 38 to 168mm on a ApS-C. It was a huge step up in terms of image quality. A second hand version would be fine and last you years.
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