There is a pin on the extender that drops into a hole in the lens. The pin or mechanism for it can become bent. The same thing happens to the camera bodies occasionally. It may be difficult to see the issue, but get it fixed rather than a much more expensive cost to repair a dropped lens.

Meh, I don't love the system. I've been tolerating the system so far because of the advantages it has. I want Canon to come out with something that competes. But I'm working on an important project this summer, and I wanted to see if the Sony might be useful to me.

One thing I have noticed, there's very little focus missing. If it does manage to lock focus, it pretty much nails it every time. That's really really nice.

Oh, and the sensor cleaning on the Sony kind of cracks me up... With Canons you just see a little animation on the screen, and you trust that it's doing something in there. With the Sony, hold on tight, because when you run the sensor cleaning, that sensor is moving in there. ;D I guess that's something else IBIS is good for... A vigorous sensor cleaning.

Last, regarding the focus hunting, I'm starting to learn that what really sets it off is if you try to autofocus and the point you have selected is not pointed at something with a decent amount of contrasty edges. Good light or not, try to focus on something that's not contrasty, and it's going to freak the camera out.

Seems like Canon has been working on a stacked sensor for 10 year or more (at least it seems that way)

Wonder if they will ever bring something to the market?

tmc784 said:

That's why I always buy first party lenses.

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That statement doesn't make sense. So you may buy an inferior product just because it may get a firmware update? Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying third party lenses are bad. But to buy them only because they offer firmware updates makes no sense to me. Also, firmware updates are necessary for third party manufacturers because when new bodies are released, they have to change their lenses to perfectly adapt them. If you buy OEM, there is usually no need for an update, or much less so.

AlanF said:

You seem to have missed that there is a current thread about this topic http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=35188.0

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I did indeed miss it - thanks for that. I looked in the Third Party forum and did not see anything so I started this. Apparently the other thread is in Industry News.

I've been experimenting with Sony mirrorless, specifically the A7 III, and while I'm slowly learning the strengths of the camera and its advantages, right out of the box, the thing felt extremely finicky. Namely, the most irritating thing was the automatic switching between using the rear screen and the viewfinder to take photos. I rarely use live view on my 5D to take photos, and I didn't want it on the Sony. But in its stock configuration, the camera pretty much forces it on you.

With the stock settings, the screen is the default way to take photos, until you press your eye up to the viewfinder, at which point it switches to the viewfinder, and then it goes back to using the screen as soon as you move the camera away from your face. I just wanted it to work like a DSLR... Viewfinder for taking photos, screen for looking at them and changing camera settings.

At first I just shut off the automatic switching and used a custom button to manually switch back and forth between the two. This was ok, but it was still very clunky. It stopped the screen from coming on every time I let the camera hang down at my side, but after I reviewed photos or changed settings, if I forgot to switch back to the viewfinder, I risked putting the camera up to my face and staring into a dark viewfinder.

Finally, I discovered a setting hidden under the camera tab number 2, page 6 of 9. In here, Choose the "DISP Button" setting, and then "Monitor." (Seriously, I love the tech on this camera, but these menus drive me up a fucking wall. They're truly absurd.)

In this setting, you can see there are different possible displays that you can have the rear screen use when the rear screen is being used to take photos. Like the live view options in Canon, there are various things you can show overlaid on the screen like an electronic level, etc.

HOWEVER, one of these display options is "Monitor Off." It's unchecked by default, but turning this on is the key to making the camera function more like a DSLR.

Check this option (and uncheck all the others if you don't want the camera to have a live view function at all.) Also ensure that the automatic switching between the viewfinder and the screen is set to on.

After enabling this, when you take the camera away from your face, it will technically switch over to the rear screen, but if it's in that display mode of "monitor off," it will not act as a live view, it just goes off. This is nice because if you playback photos, or press the menu button, these will still show up on the screen, but as soon as you go back to shooting, the rear screen goes dark, and only the viewfinder is used for shooting, which will automatically activate when you put your eye up to the finder. So in this way it's very similar to a DSLR.

Hope this helps someone making the transition but supremely frustrated by the way the camera always seems to want to default to a sort of live view functionality the way I was.

why then even bother.... Canon 50mm 1.8 is cheap already and very sharp.

maybe they should try something like 35mm 1.4 or 50mm 1.4

It seems to be that the white lenses shows wear many times more than does the black lenses.

Well Camera was in Custom WB and later thats where I noticed the red shift.
I wish I could use raw, but in photographing a Rodeo in RAW mode the current 7DII buffer slows down. FYI Rodeo rides last 8 seconds and a lot can happen in that time. So I hold the shutter button down and blast away. I normally come home with 3000 pictures for a 2.5 hr show.

I was told that maybe my +- comp may of been not 0? will have to test and see.
Just wondering if anyone else has noticed any issues.

I'm very curious what the rumored video-centric mirrorless will look like and what the alleged "prioritization" of video in the mid-to-upper range DSLRs will mean. If the C100 is really dead, that will leave quite a hole, in terms of both price and functionality, between the XC series or a 5D with Canon LOG and the C200. If they'd do something competitive in the $2,000 - $4,000 space (e.g. good 4K codec, reasonable exposure and monitoring tools, reasonable active sensor area, log), I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd be all over it, even if they withheld nice-to-have features like advanced IS or XLRs or built-in ND filters or 120+ fps.

Hi Folks.
Please don’t get me wrong, we all start out somewhere, my thought is that learning (and investing a sizeable chunk of cash in) a new skill might not be the best way to sell items for your main income?
I completely get the ‘I can do this’ attitude, there are a good many things around here that I have done with the ‘if they can do it so can I attitude.’
However, ‘I can build a gearbox and overdrive’ doesn’t seem to have given me much preparation for ‘I can skim and paint this bedroom wall!’ Apparently there are tricks of the trade I don’t know or the original (purple) paint on the wall wouldn’t be blistering under the new emulsion paint! ;D
Apparently not everything can be done by everybody, but my outlay is under £100 to discover I can’t do this well!

Cheers, Graham.

Talys said:

Orangutan said:

Valvebounce said:

Hi Orangutan.
I seem to recall product photography was discussed in great detail, with a very good argument being made on why to get a pro to do it for you (or at least someone who understands photography and lighting, like a brother!) if you want to actually sell the product, nothing hinders sales more than a poor photo!

Cheers, Graham.

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Yes, but "pros" have to start somewhere. It may be foolish to rely on your own product photography without the skills, but if she's looking to build skills, she might as well practice on her own product. I would hope that a working jewelry artist would be able to tell if her early photo work was crap.

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I am absolutely with Orangutan.

The key to "doing it yourself" is to not accept a photograph that isn't as good as what a professional charging you top dollar would produce. To get there, all you need is some lighting, a roll of paper and time to learn -- and some good reading on lighting is helpful too.

If you have the will to generate good photographs, whether it's textiles or jewelry or automobiles, the subject isn't going anywhere, so given enough time, you can figure it out -- and then it will be a lot easier the next time. Product photography also has the benefit to allowing those who are learning to (generally) use continuous lights instead of strobes/flashes for difficult shots -- and then move to strobes and fancier modifiers later on. This is especially true of items like gemstones that reflect and refract light in all sorts of interesting ways.

The real argument against doing it yourself is that all the photography and lighting equipment, and in some cases, the space (if your subject is larger) is much more expensive than just having someone who does it for a living take care of it for you. But then again, if it's your hobby, there is satisfaction to being able to produce it yourself!

And if all else fails, and you don't like your photos, you can hire someone to do it on location, observe what they do, and figure out what you did wrong

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Thanks for the valuable advice!

Like this forum

Michael Clark said:

Just because it is slightly less sharp at 50mm than it is at 24mm or 70mm does not mean it is softer at 50mm that every other 50mm lens on the planet! It is still a very good performer at 50mm that exceeds most, if not all, of the other zoom lens options. The difference between 875/700 and 920/750 is trivial unless you are printing very large display sizes and viewing at very close distances.

Those other options might be as good at 50mm as they are at 24mm or 70mm, but who cares when those other lenses are softer everywhere, all the way from 24-70mm, than the 24-70/4 is at 50mm? Just because it is not at its own best at 50mm does not mean it is not still the best zoom at 50mm.

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Yeah, what can I say. I use 24-70/4 as a product photography staple and the photographs are perfect. There is nothing lacking in the images, nor any way a client wouldn't be impressed -- even when zoomed to the pixel, which is something that is never done in practice.

I want to be part of the conversation here.

Maximilian said:

Maximilian said:

...
I haven't seen either, have you?
So I would expect another year to pass.

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jolyonralph said:

I heard from a Canon source that the 7DIII will indeed be announced this year. Probably at Photokina

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Hopefully your source is right and I'm (and CR) proven wrong, because looking at the competition, I'd say a 7D3 is needed earlier than later.

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I agree with this opinion.

lexptr said:

Another lens, which just needs a new color to match other lenses… 200mm f2 will follow.

(Sorry for joking all around about lens recoloring. Just can't recover after 70-200 f2.8 announcement.)

Now seriously, the 800mm needs a good update. According to TDP's IQ comparisons, it doesn't perform really better than 500 or 600mm with X1.4 TC. If today I would want to get a telephoto longer than 600mm it would definitely be either 500 or 600mm with TC, giving 700 or 840mm reach respectively and, of course, the shorter focal length with wider aperture as an option.

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Beautiful photos on your website. You are truly a master.

neuroanatomist said:

The 70-200/2.8 II is my go-to zoom for portraits (and I have no interest in updating to the MkIII). I use the 70-300L for travel.

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+1 on the 70-200 (don't have the 70-300L yet)

Watch the Canon refurbish store for the 70-200 f2.8 IS Mark II. You can get a good price for this lens that has been checked out by Canon and backed by Canon's one year warranty.

This is my goto lens for most things including indoor sports, school events, portraits, and capturing little tikes around the house or the back yard. I love this lens for candids of people of all ages. Every lens in my signature line has a valuable purpose for me, but none more than this one.

Has anyone processed images in Dual Pixel mode (I guess you need to use DPP as LR does not seem to support it).

Any good reviews/discussions?

Just wondering if it is worth the extra effort.

Thanks

Actually, the C700FF was at the Dutch AV Festival on Thursday and Friday.

Lucky I had to chance to work with the camera although no recording was possible.
Sadly no support for ProRESS RAW according to Canon EU. Otherwise very impressive tech.

Durf said:

It wouldn't surprise me if Canon was not fully disclosing all the info on these two lenses and perhaps many of the L lenses that have been upgraded and or newly released in the last year or two. Such as; technology to make them work great and or excel on a mirrorless full frame machine they have yet to release.

I doubt Canon would be working on a full frame mirrorless body to offer without first making sure many of their top selling good L lenses will work flawlessly on it first.

just my opinion and me thinking out loudly

I believe their full frame mirrorless they will reveal soon will be able to accept EF mount lenses.....

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I think you just hit the nail on the head.

The new (admittedly goofy) 470EX-AI automatic bounce head flash was introduced in February 2018. It turned out that every new Canon EOS body introduced since mid-2014 (except the four digit xx00D/Tx Rebels) had the ability to run that new auto bounce head feature already built in. Canon included the needed hardware/software and left it hidden in those models for up to 3 1/2 years until they announced the 470EX-AI earlier this year!

OK, I found an old mirror lens and put it on the M5. Good grief!

Canon EOS M5 with Vivitar 500mm Mirror Lens © Keith Breazeal by Keith Breazeal, on Flickr

IMG_1419_filtered by Keith Breazeal, on Flickr

Just got mine as well. Fits fine on my 5D3 (and old T1i just for fun), and I threw a tiny patch of gaffer on top as I find the bubble level a bit distracting.

I wish is was just a bit longer front to back (see Labdoc shot, it's the same item) to stick out further towards my eye. The metal in the back is still very slightly exposed. It's a dramatically lower fabric catching risk, though, so I'm probably going to stick with it as made.

If it really bugs me I might exacto knife off 2-3mm from the front end of one of my two spares (4x come from Amazon) and glue it into a fullsized one for a longer version.

But otherwise I'm in business. Thanks, Labdoc. Good find!

- A

The lens is the non-AI version of Nikkor 200mm f/4, but I think it has been converted because the guy whom I bought it from has successfully used the lens on a D5200.

Jack Douglas said:

Hey Edward, how cool! The shots I mean. And how cold was it?

Jack

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Hi Jack, its an experience thats for sure, can become addictive though, as Catherine's Post indicates, once is never enough.

I prefer the Arctic, only because of the Polar Bears, and travel distances.

And it does get cold of course, had many a day of minus 40, plays havoc with the batteries, but I now get into the habit of using hand warmers wrapped around spare batteries, helps, doesn't help the hands of course, but its alway about priorities.