R5m2 heating up in Photo mode

I’ve always thought that my camera is supposed to heat up only in video mode. However, tonight, I saw the temperature indicator while only shooting in Photo mode. That was for the first time.

As weird as it may sound, I just bought the video grip with the fans for cooling. Actually I haven’t used it before - just tested it.

IMG_1049.jpeg

Did any review have had this experience in Photo mode?

To be honest the temperature indicator didn’t raised.

I have seen in video mode how my camera gets high temperature.

Canon Patent: Small VCM Motors for Power Zoom

In this patent application (2025-023282), Canon is looking to make the power zoom motors much smaller for future lenses. Canon is exploring using 1, 2, or even more voice coil motors to move the elements necessary to zoom the lens.

CIPA 2024: The Rise of China and Compacts

I fail to see why X100V is not a compact camera. There is no rule that compact cameras should have a small sensor. Classic compact cameras from the 1970s like Canon GIII QL used 35 mm film. A compact camera is a fixed lens camera. A compact camera is not a pocket camera,.
I'm highlighting that the trait of the camera is "Fixed Lens" and not the size of the cameras. You can see the conversation was about cameras like the M series, R50 and R100 all of which are interchangable lenses. They are focusing on the "Size" of the camera, when in fact what is popular is a simplisttic cameras that has a fixed lens.
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Drowning in new R5 Mark II config

It's very dated of me, but that's why I liked the IR remotes. No fuss, no pairing, no ongoing battery hit from a feature being left on, etc.

I thought a fun exercise with the new body would be to shoot my corporate portrait (just for my outlook profile). But now I have the choice of using the cable release RS 80-N3 with an awkward reach, buying a bluetooth remote or having to pair my phone.

One of those methods will work and I'll get the shot I need. But IR (for all its headaches) would have been so much simpler for this.

- A
An advantage of the BR-E1 remote is that the remote does not need to be in front of the camera like the IR remote. You can use the BR-E1 to trigger the camera from the side or from behind the camera. On paper the RC-6 and BR-E1 have the same range (5 meter/ 16 ft), but my RC-6 struggled above 2 meters.
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CFExpress Type B -- value of trusted brand vs. Pcie 4.0 speed

ProGrade CFe cards are great. I got two 512GB CFe 4.0 Gold cards in November 2023 for just over $300.

Interestingly, they seemed to have changed the Gold Series specs. The ones I bought have a sustained write speed of 2400 MB/s, and the ones they're currently selling are 850 MB/s.
From ProGrade:
There are no design changes to the product itself, only the sustained write speed message and label design...
Reason for change
In consideration of the current usage environment of general PCs, we have changed the speed measurement method to specify a sustained write speed that is closer to actual usage conditions

I guess what that means is that people figured out the 2400 MB/s sustained was not practically achievable, so ProGrade changed the number to match reality.
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Sirui Cinema lenses interchangeable mounts.


These are very interesting to me. The interchangeable mounts are bound to be of interest to someone.

I've often wondered how the look would change using a Cinema lens for photos.

Specifications for Unnamed EOS R APS-C Camera Body

The reason for the stacked sensor is so we can get rid of the mechanical shutter. If you've ever been in the bush (Africa) listening to a shutter going mad you'll understand what I'm talking about.

I would rather a 24 megapixel crop sensor with R3 readout speed. The 7D Mark II was such a great camera with only a 20.2 megapixel sensor and that produced awesome images.
You wrote you wanted
  • 24mp cropped sensor with improved low light and dynamic range
And I replied specifically to that point, which you don’t seem to have understood. A new 24 Mpx sensor is most unlikely to have an improved low light and dynamic range. And being stacked won’t improve that.

(As an aside, I use my R5 and R5ii solely in electronic shutter, and the R7 99%, and most of my shooting is of birds and wild life. I’ve used a variety of DSLRs in the bush, 7D-5DIV-5DSR, but never got close enough to scare things off with mechanical shutter or mirror slap. The R7 does have EFCS shutter mode if you don’t want to use ES or mechanical, but the R5ii stacked sensor is a good thing).
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Canon Announcements Before CP+, The PowerShot V1 and More...

It can't be coincidence that Canon is apparently about to announce new products as the price of a Canon EOS R6 Mark II Body has plunged $1,400 in a week and the Canon EOS R6 Mark II with RF 24-105mm f/4L IS lens kit has just plummeted a massive $2,000 in Australia. Perhaps a R6 Mark III is on the way along with a new Mark II version of the 24-105mm f/4L lens?
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EOS R1: One camera to rule them all

My copy of the 150OS and Sigma 1.4x work very well together and the combination is still impressively sharp. But the OS isn't very useable (for me), especially when you have IBIS, so I've relegated it to the R8.

I'm looking forward to a modern 180-ish 1:1 macro for RF, having IS is a strong preference, but I'd take a fast focussing Sigma RF without IS/OS if it's lighter than my EF180L.
Sigma----Macro-----Lighter :ROFLMAO: . That would be revolutionary.
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$10,000 lens budget.

Missed this. But yes.

Thanks
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The Data Is In: Canon Claims #1 Spot in Multiple Camera and Lens Categories for 2024

And why would you shoot landscape wide open? :ROFLMAO:
I have 3 main reasons for shooting landscape at a wide aperture:
- Waterfalls with stronger water flow can generate wind/spray around the waterfall if you are close up. If the foreground moves eg tree/leaves and then I would take a wide aperture shot (or high ISO) and layer blending the foreground with the longer exposure for smoothing the water or bubble trails in the water.
For landscapes with no moving foreground then I would use f9 or narrower for sharpness. For seascapes, I want the foreground to move/blur so use longer exposure times (and/or use filters). Similar for cloud movement for cityscapes. If I want light stars (sun stars or night street light stars) then I will use <f16 to generate them.

- Focus stacking a foreground panorama where there is limited light. eg foreground for a milky way shot during blue hour where the light is changing fast. It can be much faster to take 2 shots focused on near/far distance wide open and stack them rather than f9 and stack each panel before merging a panorama of say 7 panels for 180 degrees.

As @neuroanatomist mentions, all astro landscape skies will be as wide as possible offsetting ISO. I use my Samyang 14/2.8 @f2.8 at 15-20 seconds per panel @ISO3200 which gives a reasonable ISO vs star trail balance. If using a star tracker then you can stop down eg 20/1.4 down to f2 to improve vignetting/sharpness with a 30sec-2minute exposure at low ISO.

Aperture is used creatively at the end of the day for what you want to achieve.
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OM System to announce a new camera soon

Looks like an OM 3 with a stacked sensor. Would make an interesting development for budget conscious wildlife photographers. Combined with their 150-600.
For wildlife photographers, the OM-1 (mark i or II) would be the better choice in terms of ergonomics. This camera is for those that want the latest tech in a retro look and feel for general, vacation and street shooting, in my opinion. The OM-1 mark II is currently $400 off, so the same price, at least here in the US. That camera is my personal favorite for wildlife.
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