john kriegsmann said:

Canon will never catch up to Sony in the mirrorless area. its too late for them, they got such a late start. I love Canon and have bought their cameras for over 20 years. They make great bodies, and super lenses. Their bodies have simple and intuitive controls. What they lack and have lacked for the past decade is cutting edge sensor technology.
I do not like Sony bodies, they are more computers than cameras with extremely deep and multi layered menus for even basic camera functions. What they do have is cutting edge sensors and good form factors for their lenses and mirrorless bodies. Fuji is another innovative camera company that has come from know where to lead the cropped sensor mirrorless market with innovative bodies and small, high quality lenses. Canon's M5- meh!

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Nikon now offers the best sensors, take a look at DxO. And it's not even made by Sony. Time do jump ship from Sony to Nikon! If you jump ship every year or even sooner, you'll be chosen as a best customer of all camera manufactures

I found this. Don't know anything about the author but it sounds reasonable and well researched. Like most things the Camera is a mixed bag. For that price it needs more work before it would interest me.

https://medium.com/adventures-in-consumer-technology/light-l16-review-5481d25c05f6

mb66energy said:

I have configured my cameras to do safety shift.

Example: While shooting some macro/close up work in Av mode with open aperture, e.g. f/2.8 or f/4.0 I see some interesting clouds. Shooting these clouds spontanously at f/2.8 + 1/8000 (the latter is the limit in shutter speed) is to bright just at ISO 50 - the camera adjusts the aperture to e.g. f/8 + 1/8000.

Shooting with 5D mark i I have not Auto ISO - only shutter speed and aperture can be "safety-shifted".

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I'm curious why you would do macro work at 2.8/4?

okaro said:

Chaitanya said:

I thought after release of EOS200D Canon had killed off their EOSXX00D line of SLRs.ma

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Completely different cameras. The EOS 200D is a small size DSLR. EOS thousand series are cheap entry level cameras.

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Does that mean that my 350D just got worth a whole lot more money?

Thanks for the warning regarding the sd card. Can you please clarify on the 3 options you mentioned?
1. Camera only seems no save to phone(or tablet) at all! Is that correct?
2. Seems the one required by me to save raw files.
3. The "Raw camera only" option seems that it saves only jpegs on local device (=tablet/phone)

Are the above correct?

Thanks.


I don't know the answer for sure, but thats the way I read it. I use option 2 and it does upload both raw and jpeg files, but I never tried the other two. I am using a Galaxy Tab A which is not listed as supported, so some functions might not work correctly, but so far, it seems to work. I have a iphone, so I have to use other software for it.

You have lost Canon Exececutives interest right there.

Hector1970 said:

They might not sell many but...

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I've had the LP-E19 batteries last me for almost a week on vacation before, and that is using it every day. I would think four Canon E19s would last three weeks.

Another editors choice being handed out.

Orangutan said:

bergstrom said:

Canon is getting hammered by sony on the

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Because they're not getting hammered where it counts: market share and profit.

As much as we'd all like to have a large collection of new features and tech, the reality is that Canon is in business to make money, not for any other reason.

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Just remember we are weird lot - very into specs and technical details. Most photographers care about the images they produce, not technical gibberish.

kat.hayes said:

When needing fill light for someone against bright naturally lit background, or to just fill in shadows on someone's face indoors or outdoors, what is the difference between using a reflector vs. a flash as a fill light in terms of lighting quality? When might one work better than the other?

Thanks!

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I am using Canon Speedlite 430EX II Flash for my SLR camera. I think flash is the perfect option for more lighting. It has 20% faster recycling time and one-touch quick-Lock for attaching to the camera.

https://youtu.be/gJLIiF15wjQ?t=49s

recompose is never going to work, not only because of the narrow dof, but also because of RSAs.

i use the off-center focus points, just remember that if you are using a non-cross type focus point, to try to align it to a high contrast line that is perpendicular to the focus point.

I seem to recall the 85 Art and 135 Art got a newer, more powerful AF motor setup. Though I believe this was intended for focusing speed, most reviews I've read have placed the 85 + 135 Art lenses a clear cut above for AF accuracy/consistency than the 35 + 50 Art. The 85 and 135 Art lenses' AF is not flawless, but I've heard far fewer comments of 'the AF just occasionally completely misses, even after dock/AFMA' like we've all heard from the 35 + 50 Art lenses.

- A

kanehi said:

I wonder if Canon will use the Sony sensors. Canon sensors are fine but they are weak at low light and low contrast images. When they do release a FF mirrorless i also hope it has an EVF and articulating screen, not the up and down screen. Canon should've learned by now how to built a better FF mirrorless by dissecting Sony and other FF cameras.

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I have to wonder if you have ever used a Sony FF camera. The main difference in the sensors is at base ISO, in low light there is very little difference. Since Sony's FF camera is by almost all accounts terrible in ergonomics and well below Canon in every metric but the sensor, it is really the other way around - Sony can learn to build a better camera by dissecting Canon FF cameras. I think you can be sure that Sony would never sell their sensors to Canon unless they go out of the camera business as that is their only selling point.

dickgrafixstop said:

I don't believe Canon makes it's own batteries anyway. It just irritates me that Canon expects me to pay 4 to 5 times the amount the 3rd party battery makers charge just for the logo.

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i use a mix of canon and 3rd patzy LiIon batteries. canon buys them from external suppluers (most likely Panasonic). i do believe that Canon has toghter specs and quality control measures in place for the cells, since they can less afford any damage to their brand by overheatibg batteries and potential massive reacalls than the Wasabi's of this world. in my experience i do get a bit more juice consistently and for more recharge cycles put of OEM batteries. but looking at maybe 10-20%, not 4-5 times as the price differential ....

Jopa said:

jeffa4444 said:

Eldar said:

I have used mine primarily handheld, with everything from 11-24 to 600 and it works fine. With the 24-70 f2.8L II (no IS) I can do 1/FL in shutter speed. To be on the safe side I do 1/2xFL. With IS lenses it´s of course different. I have pixle peeped a lot and believe this problem is a bit exaggerated (I know I am fairly steady though).

Who should use this camera and who should not ... that´s the question. To me, as long as your computer can process and you have enough disk space, I´d say you can use this camera for anything but sports, action and low light events (even though it is much better in low light than I had expected).

I´m crossing my fingers for the new 1DX-II. Until then, I find a 1DX/5DSR combo to fill just about any need I can come up with. My 5DIII will most likely be inherited by my son.

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I would 2nd this opinion. Ive found the "steadiness" issue to be not as bad as everyone imagined it to be when the camera came out. I shoot studio portraits hand-held with strobes with shutter set at 160th and anything up to 200mm. Like Eldar I use the EF 24-70mm f2.8L USM II a lot and have not really seen a material difference in sharpness compared to say the EF 70-200mm f2.8L IS USM II or the EF 100 f2.8L IS USM.

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I think it's no difference than shooting a regular APS-C camera, so 1.5x-2x should apply to the shutter speed.

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The full frame is larger and so any rotational movement is exaggerated compared with a smaller frame. So theoretically if you see 2x with a 20 mp crop camera you’d have to be more with the FF

SecureGSM said:

Jopa,

it does not work as such for Sigma Art lenses. it would be slightly detuned on the second camera. tried many times before. it works, sort of but not for all 4 calibration points though. it may work for some distances to your subject and miss for others. much worse on my 5D IV than on 6D.

Sigma 135 Art was the worst. I spend 3+ hours calibrating the lens to my 5D IV and gave up.
I calibrated hundreds of Sigma lenses in my life but this lens was an ultimate nightmare to calibrate. Sold it today. Sigma 50 and 85 Art are up for sale. I cannot be bothered.

Jopa said:

I'm also not sure if I need to calibrate for one camera and it will work for another one "automatically", or should I do it for both cameras (and my time will double).

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Sorry to hear this Alex. My 85 Art is more or less ok. The AFMA varies from +5 to +7 depends on distance which is acceptable for me (I keep it on the middle: +6 ). The only problem I have is focus shift, but I mostly shoot it wide open, so it's not a huge deal.

I remember you said all your Sigma lenses worked fine on the 6D, so I'm wondering if Sigma is still making the new lenses "AF compatible" with the older Canon cameras? Now when they started making calibration docks, theoretically they can offer some kind of profiles for different cameras. Yes, AFMA would still be required, but just one value, and the profile would take care of the distance inconsistencies (i.e. distributing one AFMA value with a certain ratio across the whole focusing range).

...and of course a mirrorless camera would solve all AF issues once and for all!

ktrphoto said:

I have both. If I could have only one lens I would choose the 24-70. In reality I have hardly use it since I got the 16-35. Many members have talked about the 16-35 being great for landscapes, but like a few other responders, I have found 24mm to be wide enough when out in open spaces.

I know this is a dormant thread, but I have a new point to make: the 16-35 comes into its own in towns and cities and for interiors, when even 24mm either won't include the whole of a room or, out of doors, does not let you back up far enough to make the shot you want.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ktr-photo/37134998502/in/dateposted-public/

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My 16-35 f/4L is my favorite lens for landscapes. I been without a 24-70 or 24-105 in my kit several times, but I'll never be without this one.

Well, a sad and nice day for me today. I had to sell my 200 f2.0 today since car repairs and cr@p. But it means I can buy the 85 IS and I’m really looking forward to it.

And I pray to the photo Gods that my curse is no longer with me. (If I ever buy anything new, and not used, it won’t work).

ElBerryKM13 said:

Who is this camera really targeted to? Whatever it does it might be on par to an iphone 8 or any latest phone.
Wish canon focused more on the pro market and release more 4k cameras or a new 80d with 4k.

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Come in, I phone has some 7 mm sensor. APS-C sensor is way superior. Sure it may lack some gimmicks like artificial background blurring but in basic photography there is no comparison.

Talys said:

[When I say that it's academic, I'm talking about the specific, and very narrow case that I took a test shot of -- depth of field of a FF and a crop sensor, both with identical lenses, taken from exactly the same focal distance. On the full frame image, the depth of field of any part of the image available on the crop is identical to the depth of field on the crop image.

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You get less DoF on a smaller sensor if you use same lens. If you later crop the FF image then you will naturally get identical results.

But the only scenario that this would be useful for is if you had an 80D set up to take shots on a tripod, and it died; then you could swap in a 5DSr and get exactly the same shot, and just take the crop area. You'd get essentially identical depth of field in the images. The reverse is more likely, and even technically true but it's totally useless, because if you swap out a 5DSr with a 80D without moving and using the same lens, you'd lose 40% of your image, and one assumes that's not desirable.

I certainly don't mean that the understanding of focal length, aperture, distance to subject as it relates to depth of field is academic. It most certainly isn't!

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One naturally would use a different lens in the crop sensor or open the zoom more.

CanonFanBoy said:

AlanF said:

What does "more than $4,000 of use" mean? If you are pro, then you can measure your income from it and put a figure on your profits. If you are a hobbyist, like me, then how is the monetary value calculable - I have as much fun from my £700 lens as I do from my £7000? So, please explain $4000 of use because I don't know how to put a value on my use.

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You are right for the hobbyist, Alan. So true. I'm a hobbyist too.

There are people here that talk of using gear for a couple of years and then selling at a profit. Maybe so, but I think that it is very rare if it happens.

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I live in a large city and there is tons of camera gear for sale used on craigslist. Currently 1760 items tagged canon, from batteries, rebels, 5dsr, 1dx2, small, and big whites, from $1-9000. Lots of good deals to be had. I think I have only "lost money" on used cameras, as expected. Lenses I break even when I sell them, and many times have purchased used gear to make money on. It depends on the local market. If one lives hours from a large city and their town has 50,000 people there will be no opportunity to buy/sell. I have never purchased used gear on ebay.

Jopa said:

Some dude @ B&H complaints about nozzle clogging - that matches my usual experience with Epson printers (in the past). Wondering if that's just him or a trend?

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Indeed ... 'some dude'

I set out my own feelings about this aspect in the review, and what I've found different about the P5000 and what not.

Obviously just one example of a few months of regular but relatively light use.