Philnick said:

You do know that you can set any of the controls on an EOS camera to do whatever you want (or nothing) - right?

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That's not entirely true, though. For some controls you are only allow a very limited number of things to be mapped to that control.

I haven't changed my previous practice. I use back button focus with AF-ON for full screen with full tracking, and * for centre point focus, with metering. A half press of the shutter is set to pre-continuous shooting and a full press for actuation of shutter. That way, I don't need an extra button and there no shifting of my finger from one button to another to switch between pre- and normal shooting. BBF used to be "mandatory" for DSLRs but is going out of fashion with mirrorless with its AI AF. However, when there are tricky focus problems like a dragonfly in flight against a background, you have more control using two button back focusing.

For those with DSLR lenses used on R-series, this review may be of interest: https://www.ephotozine.com/article/meike-drop-in-filter-mount-adapter-mk-eftr-c-review-37535

I’ve been holding out. I still have my 5D4 and 7Dii. Not sure why I have this hang up about upgrading, but it just hasn’t felt like the right time. I’m a hobbiest and now that my kids are out of 4H, I don’t shoot as much. The kit works for me, but compared to today’s choices, there is no comparison against today’s camera options.

Mekos said:

After having changed to mirrorless (owning now the Canon R6 Mark II and Canon R7), last week I decided and bought the fullframe Canon 5D Mark IV (I own the APS-C Canon 7D). Out of the box, battery and memory card ready, I turned upset/nervous with something: Only in Av (or also in Tv mode), choosing an aperture (i.e. f/8), no matter the different brightness I pointed the camera to, the shutter speed (or the aperture in Tv) remained always the same, turning the file underexposed or overexposed! never that had happened before with any Canon camera I had owned. So, or there's a real problem with the upper left dial only in Av or Tv modes (not in P or M), or... for the first time I feel dumb with the menu of a Canon camera! (No, no exposure limits reached, nor ISO problem: tried setting to 100 and also in auto). Something else to try? Please help! Thanks, guys!

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check the shutter speed settings in custom functions 2 to see if it is set to a particular speed.

justaCanonuser said:

Depends on what you want to mainly shoot with that lens: the f/4.0 is a very good landscape and short sports tele zoom; the f/2.8 shines when you shoot people, including portrait (that's why reporters love this lens), and it is of course the better choice if you want to use it with extenders. But I do not want to teach you, you surely know exactly for which purposes you want such a lens.

Btw the f/4.0 L IS USM is not only quite compact & light (like the non-IS version), feels very nice in the hands, in particular turning the zoom ring feels so light and smooth, it is a real fun to use that lens. The f/2.8 L IS USM II that I have feels extremely solid, too, but it is much more massive.

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Yeah — for me it was my kid for a long time (now in university), and during that time we bought a farm and live in a rural community. (I know, weird for a tech guy.) As such, I've gravitated towards domesticated animals (e.g., ducks, horses, hounds); wild animals (e.g., eagles, deer, elk); and people or my own experience in that context (my avatar pic is from a rodeo), such as portraits around barns, warehouses, shops, etc.

For me the 70-200 f/4 original on an R6 with DLO is very satisfactory in terms of quality, especially for animals that aren't shy or things like cowboys riding a bucking bull. IS doesn't help much beyond what the R6 is providing for these contexts. That stated, I am on the Pacific Northwest, so things like humidity and rain are an issue. The lens has some internal sealing, so it's always fine (no fogging, etc.) but I don't bring it out much in the winter or spring. The IS versions are sealed better, so they remain attractive in that regard. I also powerlift, so the larger lenses are more a packing inconvenience than anything else.

But, I also have followed the guiding principle of expanding capability before replacing capability. It's tough for me to upgrade from 70-200 to 70-200 unless the advantage is overwhelming. I still have my ultra-telephoto capability to establish, for example, and since I won't justify $10k+ on a lens (I'm not making money in most cases) and I like primes (for the zen, not pragmatics) I'm waiting for that mythical 500 f/5.6 unicorn to show up. It's why my sig has all of those lenses: each provides a capability or interesting feature that I actually use in a situation that I'd otherwise miss emotionally for my day-to-day or month-to-month prosumer amusement. It's also why I'm not an RF person yet — the gains are there, but for the cash most of the time those gains (to me) are not overwhelming vs. my late-EF editions combined with DLO.

But I really appreciate everyone's input and experience, because my friends and local stores don't carry everything so I can't always test things out before buying. And renting is a real inconvenience for where I am.

EOS 4 Life said:

Also, the R5 C.

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Love the R5C. When you think of a hybrid camera, do you consider hybrid as being one body that does good video and photos seamlessly in one operating system? R5C feels like two completely different cameras sharing one body hardware, with that short reboot cycle between operating systems. So, I’m not sure how hybrid is defined in that case comparing the R5II and the R5C. Both are technically hybrid (R5 line, R6 line).

TexPhoto said:

I'll add that we RF 7-14mm shooters, (or EF 8-15mm) never called our lenses "dual fisheye lens shooters". It's a zoom lens, with lots of great options.

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Exactly! Besides the two obvious focal length choices at the wide and the long end, 8mm (APS-C) would be used by professional 360° producers to maximise final resolution. Furthermore, about 9mm could come handy when recording video in 16:9.

briangus said:

I bought it last year, was a good idea at the time.
View attachment 229743View attachment 229744View attachment 229745View attachment 229746

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Nice! I had fun with a fisheye on my M series, long sold. I might be tempted to get the Laowa RF-S 4.5-10mm for the R7 as it is cheaper. I guess the RF-S might work in crop mode on the R5 etc as only exposure is monitored in manual Av mode for these no-reporting lenses?

@zajicekpavel said:

So, won't they use the R6M3 sensor? They're stuffing it into everything now

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R6 Mark III is Full frame.
R7 is APS-C.

Cropped to APS-C dimensions, the R6 Mark III sensor would only be 12.7 MP.

The C50 is an amazing camera.
It doesn't have IBIS.
I never use IBIS.
I recently watched a couple of R6V reviews where they called the C50 a "Niche" camera.
But now folks are looking forward to the R6V.
I like the price but I want cinema menus and audio top handle.

But Original question, is the C50 a flop? Is it Niche?
I think it should be more mainstream

ronbyram said:

Hello Gang,
I am a R6 Mark II owner but I am thinking about moving up to either the Mark III and or R5 or a used R1 for my sport photography.
Does anyone recomend a brand and or size.

Does anyone know if the 4.0 format is supported? I know Memory is high $ but wanted to ask.

I currently use Prograde 256 cards on my Mark II

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The camera will use v4 cards just fine, you just don't get the speed from the camera because the camera is not fast enough to make use of it. The benefit is when you dump the card to a PC if you have a V4 card reader, that will go much faster. I use delkin power 1tb cards in my R1 and they work very well.

EOS 4 Life said:

That is a combination that Canon does not really have without CHDK

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Well they can make a hs740 with raw

neuroanatomist said:

I'm still waiting for someone to demonstrate in the final image the inferiority of digital geometric distortion correction, compared to optical correction that some people claim is superior. I tried and failed, finding that digital correction was just as good. Since you clearly believe that optical correction is better, perhaps you'll be the one to actually show some evidence to support that belief?

I won't hold my breath.

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I agree. So far i have no complaints on my 14-35mm or 20mm despite dark corners in raw. The difference is quite easy to calculate with basic geometry, if the distorsion is 10% shouldnt the resolution decrease due to stretching be about the same? The same goes for sensor resolution: you need to basically double the pixel count to get a meaningful difference in linnear resolution, for example the difference between a7rvii and r5 may sound much but is only about 22%

Dragon said:

Both the 800 f/11 and 600 f/11 use DO.

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Thank you for the reminder. I forgot about those two lenses. Still I don't understand where the RF replacement for the 400 mm DO lens is?

Far said:

Sorry to report that I have faced the freezing too (3 times since yesterday evening) and I am not using touch and drag. Even the off switch doesn’t work when it happens and I should take the battery out when it happens. I’ll update you if I can relate it to any active features, but it’s so disruptive for street photography that I am thinking about tricky ways of downgrading till they solve the issue.

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Please DO NOT TRY ANY DOWNGRADING
Last year I tried a method published on yotube, and it works on downgrade 1.0.3 to 1.0.1. But it bricks my camera when i try to downgrade 1.1.0 to 1.0.1. Canon China told me that they can only change the mainboard to fix it, and it spent me about 600$.

roby17269 said:

Wow that's way too much weight for me! I bring maybe a second lens (usually 35 1.4) and a Mini 5 Pro drone with me and I am already overly loaded


Thanks It is rare nowadays that my daughter collaborates... These were taken with the 100-500 or the 85 1.2

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You're lucky! My son flees as soon as he sees a camera!

Odd, I can't delete any product I've purchased a CarePAK (now expired) plan for.

Personally, I'm not a fan of pancake lenses in general so, to be honest, I wouldn't wish for any model to be made.

I wish the RF 28mm was a f/2 or f/1.8, not pancake, with the ability to use a proper lens hood.

For small lenses, I'd be very happy with the size of the RF 16 f/2.8 and 50mm f/1.8, avoiding the compromises of the pancake format.

please make compact rf 300 f2, 8 with integrated tc1, 4...i much prefer it to rf 100-300 f2.8

Is there anything Sony fanboyz don't brag about?

KirkD said:

I obtained one of the first ones shipped to Canada and have finally found my dream lens for nightscapes as well as nature landscapes. I have zero complaints, even at high magnification on my 32 inch hi-res monitor. I'm so in love with this lens, I'd love to keep it on my night table beside the bed, but my wife would think I've lost my senses. This afternoon, I plan to capture some beautiful, spring forest-floor Trillium patches.

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I'm looking forward to your trillium photos.
And maybe their location. I always enjoy finding trilliums.

I've had mine for a month now and for my particular example, I cannot see any coma at all in the corners, even at high magnification on my 32" monitor. I am thrilled with this lens.

I don’t travel with the charger for the LP-E19 batteries, I just plug the power adapter that I bring for my MacBook Pro into the camera to charge the battery.

I do that with my R8, as well, though I usually need to charge two batteries in succession in the camera.