Re: Canon Developing 8K Cinema EOS Camera, 120mp DSLR & 8K Display

privatebydesign said:

tvexecutive said:

Canon can't get an 18MP 1DX to work right and we're here talking about 120MP???? INSANITY!!!!

rs said:

Featuring a resolution of approximately 120 effective megapixels, the SLR camera now being developed will incorporate a Canon-developed high-pixel-density CMOS sensor within the current EOS-series platform, which will realize compatibility with the Company’s diverse interchangeable EF lens lineup.3 The high-resolution images that the camera will be capable of producing will recreate the three-dimensional texture, feel and presence of subjects, making them appear as if they are really before one’s eyes. The camera will facilitate a level of resolution that is more than sufficient for enlarged poster-sized printout while also enabling images to be cropped and trimmed without sacrificing image resolution and clarity.

source: http://www.canon.com/news/2015/sep08e2.html

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I think, judging from your hyperbolic posts so far it is you that is more likely the problem, not your Canon gear. There are many people doing work like you with Canon gear and they are quite happy, wonder why?

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He is correct, with the amount of photos this forum has, coming from the crappy 1D X and the crappier lower end cameras like the 5D III, you would wonder how anyone is still shooting with a Canon camera, especially those at major sports events, or those doing BIF, I am sure this photo sucks because my camera is too crappy to shoot at low light

Interested in your comments Tex, you quote : " The review over at the Digital picture indicates Bryan Carnathan went from not using the IS for sports on Version I to only using Mode 3 IS 100% of the time on".
A while back I had the original Canon EF 400 F2.8L and found no use for IS - good thing as it didn't have it! These days I mainly use the Canon 800 F5.6 L IS and the IS is just a hindrance in all but the most extreme circumstances. haven't used it for 21 Months and am getting more keepers as a result.
What I am getting at is that at the shutter speeds needed for sports (or in my case wildlife) IS, in any form, simply gets in the way. IS cannot help but slow down AF and impair tracking and, more importantly, contributes nothing at the shutter speeds necessary to freeze action at longer focal lengths. The newer IS systems with Mode 3 are better in theory as they allow the camera to achieve focus and only slow the whole business down AFTER focus has been achieved as opposed to doing this before focus is achieved - either way who want's it? Certainly not me.
As to lens recommendations - both are excellent but the 400 F2.8 Mk2 is even more excellent. The OP was not worried about weight - trust me the lighter weigh of the Mk2 IS a significant advantage! Panning and subject acquisition are significantly better with the lighter Mk2. As a bare lens there is not much difference in the IQ or AF but the MK 2 has the edge - only slightly - but that slight improvement can make all the difference! If you intend to use extenders then the Mk2 is simply the better option.
If the budget will allow the Canon 400 F2.8 L IS Mk2 is as good as it gets - period. The Mk 1 IS is wonderful but not quite as wonderful!
With either lens the photographer is the deciding factor. Happy choosing!

derrald said:

greekcs said:

When's the last time someone mounted a $2K+ lens on a $300 entry level consumer DSLR?

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I've used a 500 f/4l on a Rebel SL1. It works great!

I wasn't near my computer to attach so here's a link:
http://www.journeyoflight.com/photo/ring-necked-pheasant/pheasant/0/0/12/0

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That's an amazing pheasant shot there! Those little buggers can be difficult to shoot sometimes. Hear a squawk in front of you and then he's 100 feet behind you 3 seconds later.

I wonder how many 70-200 F4 L IS lenses Canon has had to fix due to the focus slipping issue that can arise after the lenses have been left in hot temperatures? They also had some production issues with some copies not able to focus to infinity at certain focal lengths, along with a few decentered copies. I've gone through a few copies of this lens over the years and have seen all of the issues in the ones I returned.

I could see Canon releasing a update with the production issues fixed, a little lighter, better flare control, and maybe a little bit quieter IS.

If you get a good copy today, it's still one of the best zoom lenses money can buy. though.
I've always been blown away with the image quality of a good copy.

It sounds like you have a earth issue on the 1DX, it is simple to deal with, just give the hotshoe a really good clean with an alcohol based cleaner, especially the inside edge of the hotshoe rail, that is where it earths, via the spring thing on the side of the PocketWizard where I have arrowed.

This diagnosis can normally be confirmed by trying to trigger the remotes via the shutter button while you apply a gentle twisting force to the PocketWizard.

I've had a power zoom EF lens. I'd not want another. I also hate the power zoom on P&S cameras.

rfdesigner said:

ajfotofilmagem said:

Thanks for sharing your insights about the lens hood most appropriate for APS-C cameras.

When you look at the lens in backlit (off camera), you see dust inside? Normally, the dust in front elements has little influence on the image, but in the rear elements becomes more visible.

I would like to have a 28mm F1.8 lens (or 24) with good contrast and sharpness when wide open in my APS-C cameras. But I think the Canon 28mm F1.8 is outdated for today's cameras. I believe the anti reflective coatings are poor in digital cameras, and still waiting for a decent upgrade, or I'll buy the Sigma 30mm Art.

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no not dust, but a sea of very very little dots, looks like a million little glass beads, dust never worries me.. my telescope only gets cleaned of dust annually if it's lucky.

For me I value fast and accurate AF over perfectly sharp in the corners ability.. I know the sigmas are better at shooting stationary objects.

Anyway I'll see how the lens fairs on Monday when I get it vacuumed.

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According to my understanding, "a million little glass beads" are the same as dust.

You should know that a lens disassemble and clean it is very easy. ??? Difficult is to assemble again, with everything at the right place, and calibrate the focus. 8)

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

Maximilian said:

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

Here's a picture of the Tamron 35mm VC taken with the 45mm VC:

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Hi Dustin!

Thank you for creeping into those two primes.

The bokeh has some little onioning but looks delicious to me.
If the AF is as you say those two might be very tempting

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It's ironic that I looked back on a similar test of the Otus 1.4/55mm and it has a LOT more onion effect, and yet the bokeh from it is really beautiful in the field. I think that sometimes we read too much into the onion bokeh effect because of reviewers that shoot tests that have little correlation to the real world.

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Yeah! You're right As I said, it looks delicious to me 8)
Also really delicious test photos you made 8)

Does this mean I could view a full 33MP image at 100% with no zoom? Drool...

aardvark said:

- Is re-tightening ok - should I apply some Loctite?
- Shouldn't there have been Loctite anyway to stop this

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The gases released by the super glue can penetrate into the lens and cause a haze on glass elements. There is a kind of suitable adhesive, called "locking screw" which is sold in model airplanes stores.

I just upgraded my OS to El Capitan and it seems to be working much faster. Not sure why that's affected the rendering of raws in photoshop, but it seems to have.

Thanks for everyones response. My main concern was based on the speed of rendering medium size CR2 files in CS6 from the 5DS on a MacBook Pro retina with full Ram upgrade and SSD. It shouldn't have been so slow. Hopefully it continues to remain quicker, I nearly sold the camera

Re: The rising tide floats all boats

bwud said:

privatebydesign said:

neuroanatomist said:

keithcooper said:

...I try and remember that a really sharp rubbish photo is still a rubbish photo...

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^^ This.

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100% agree, and the corollary of that is that there are an awful lot of very good photos out there that are not 'really sharp'. Anybody that has been to a Steve McCurry print exhibition will understand that..........

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I saw his exhibition in old town Prague a couple weeks back. It made me want to throw all my gear away.

I know a lot of people disparage the work because much of it is staged and posed, but why should I care? It's beautiful.

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I have seen a couple of his traveling print exhibitions and love them, I have all of his books too. Nobody could ever accuse him of taking sharpness seriously! But his eye for colour and composition is exquisite, I prefer his earlier work and having been to many of the places he has shot I know there is no need to stage much, if any, of that earlier body of work.

It looks great, almost as sharp as the 55mm Otus wide open and it seems to be more or less apochromatic. But how is the bokeh / coma performance?

rs said:

And even putting the 35L II at a disadvantage by using it on a crop body up against the best of the rest on a FF body, the 35L II looks superior to me:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=994&Camera=963&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=829&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

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The 35L II resolving power beat just about every single zoom and prime lens (except the TSE 24L II in corner) below 200mm. 35L II @f/1.4 is still sharper than 85L II @f/2.0 LOL

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=994&Camera=979&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=397&CameraComp=979&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=2

4K on a 5" screen should be just about ideal for me.

Technically I could use 8K if I look at the screen from 6" away, which I can do, reasonably comfortably even, but watching a movie on a 5" screen is kind of defeating the point of having IMAX level image quality.
8K mobile displays will be necessary to make a 4K VR headset though. You need 4K per eye, and those have optics between you and the screen so that even old people can use it.

f-stop is a geometric consideration
t-stop accounts for actual transmission

Very nice pictures, Pitspics.

Re: PIX Show in Seattle - Oct 6-7 Ditch the DSLR

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Show attendees can visit the Samsung booth and trade in a fully operational Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) camera including battery, power supply and lens and walk away with the cutting-edge NX500, while supplies last.

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Hmm, now that $80 used Canon 10D I saw on Ebay doesn't sound like such a bad deal anymore!

thanks for the responses guys.

I went with 24 1.4, 50 1.2 and 100L macro. Had a blast.

Got some lovely pictures of my little girl @ the aquarium.


https://flic.kr/p/zbpN7a

I did shoot some fish too

applecider said:

Please no built in extender.... Keep the weight down to current 500 f4 ii or less weights and it is hand holdable and transportable. Add on the extender and you add weight that could be left home or out of your hands all day.

Or make two models one with extender(s) and one without.

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+1000 (The smaller and the lighter the better)

Your list of main gear sounds appropriate. Don’t get the extra lenses.

I went to Cuba (2012) and it was a once in a lifetime trip. I’m from Perth, Australia. It is on the list of “I must definately go again.”

I was armed with my very first DSLR (550D/Rebel T2i).

There was a massive downpour when we visited Trinidad. It was wrapped in a camera rain-coat, the camera was always either in my jacket or under an umbrella. AND it still DIED.

I spent the rest of the trip capturing the trip with a G12.

My tip bring a weather proof camera and gear.

Before the downpour, I was taking photos on the Obispo (Old Havana) with an EF-S 55-200. I was getting a lot of filthy looks from some locals.

They are not used to tourists but understand that it is key to grow their economy. I would cover the white L with something less conspicuous. ie Lenscoat etc

Vinales is amazing. Especially the view from the Tour place at the top, as you drive in. As a personal choice, I would stitch together a massive scenic shot, then carry a fish-eye.

Tip 2: It is a less-developed country. So the lights aren’t as bright or as many. Quicker lenses are definately a must.

There are so many old buildings in Havana. The interiors are amazing. Paint peeling, Old decor. Wide Fast lenses are needed.


Tip 3: get an amazing camera back pack. There’s a lot of walking and camera gear weighs a ton.


Tip 4: more lenses does not mean better shots. more lenses, more weight and the pain of carrying it around. I mean actual pain from carrying heavy things.


Non-photography related tips:

There is almost no internet. Unless you are staying in a top hotel.

Tip 5: Express great happiness if you are staying with someone, who has internet and offers you use of it. It is stolen and they could get into great trouble for having it.


I can’t speak Spanish, so it was hard to explain to this Cuban 16 year old that the ipad, her mother was going to smuggle in for her, would not be able to do all the amazing things she saw on the Big Bang Theory, which she downloaded at 32Kbps.

Oh, how far we have come… Grass grows quicker, than opening the hotmail gateway at 32Kbps. And that was just the front page.

Tip 6: do not go to Cuba if you are a vegetarian. My vege cousin when a month before me and spent 2 weeks eating black rice and beans.


Tip 7: We stayed with locals. Even though I can afford 5 star, in Cuba, staying with locals is a great way to go.

Cubans are amazingly nice.

In Trinidad, our party was split up in to two local accommodations. The two places, who were related, had a cook-off and we had to decide which one was better. It was amazing food.

Tip 8: They have different sensibilities. We watched, our driver, peel a mango, whilst driving down the freeway with his knees.


Tip 9: locals in Havana are really nice, until you say No thanks I don’t want to buy your black market cigars.

Have Fun.

GMCPhotographics said:

What I find amusing about this particular forum...is that everyone sees themselves as an expert in sensor design and fabrication.

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Yes, yet I have a nagging suspicion that nobody on this forum has actually designed or worked in the fabrication of sensors, yet opine on these topics with an authoritative voice. It's goofy.

ObsidianGT said:

Wow, Pookie. That is EXCELLENT work. I'm thoroughly impressed. I'm an amateur with a Canon 6D, 600EX-RT, 430EX II, some various light modifiers, and my results are improving every shoot. But, I've been looking to step things up to the next level. The Profoto B1 is my new goal.

Thank you for sharing!

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Thanks for the kind words...

I've heard the Godox are pretty good... I just find that mods are easier to find for the larger brands. Anybody use the Flashpoints? I hear they are the exact same units just re branded.

I'm still a firm believer in Profoto or Elinchrom for lights. Did a shoot for a local store here in Santa Cruz Ca and used the Quadra's all day long, surf, sand and wind. Not one hiccup in 4 years with the Eli's and they are the lightest of the bunch.

I have recently had to use Profoto's customer service... no bueno and that might be a major deal breaker for me with them. Rather than send out a tiny piece of replacement kit that broke (under warranty) they want the whole unit and shipping both ways is on me. Considering I've spent nearly 10k with them it's rather lame approach to customer service.

tomscott said:

unfocused said:

Eldar and TomScott: I'm curious about your assessment of the 5DS vs. 5D III at higher ISOs. I assumed that the 5DIII still performs better at higher ISOs in terms of noise. Do you disagree? It sounds to me like the 5DIII is still slightly better, but not as significantly better as one might expect, given the higher resolution (smaller pixels).

Because of the subjects I have to shoot, dynamic range is much less important to me than high ISO performance. I'm just curious how you guys would characterize the differences.

It also sounds as though, from your experience, the improved performance of the 5DS may mean the 5DIV could be a real beast if they keep the megapixel count at 24 or so.

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I don't own a 5DS yet and I'm in a similar position to Eldar before he pulled the trigger.

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Ugh, digging through this thread looking for nuggets of first hand information I was reading Tom's long winded post only to see he doesn't own the camera his giving opinion on.

Unfocused, I have the 5Ds R and its extremely noisy. JPEGs out of camera are cleaned up nicely . In LR it cleans up nicely as well. I downloaded LR6 and I haven't run the comparison to see if it is LR6 or the 5Ds R but I have been able to push files just short of 3 stops and recover shadows on top of it. Unfortunate I have no 5D III to compare but I can tell you it is substantially better at recovering shadows, blown highlights and cleaning up noise than the 5D II.

Re: Interview With Canon's Masaya Maeda - Blah blah blah

dilbert said:

tvexecutive said:

...
My $7,000 bodies less than 2 years later are selling for $3,900.00 - Where is the VALUE?
...

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If your $7,000 bodies are being used for paid work and aren't worth $0 to you by the time the 1DXII arrives then you need a new tax accountant.

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As above, depreciation is factored in with business equipment. Paying 5000 GBP for a body to sell it for 2500 3 years and 150 weddings later puts a hire value of the kit as 16 GBP per wedding.

That's a bargain. The real depreciation and loss is with amateur / prosumer equipment that doesn't earn the user any money.