Who has problems using this site in mobile only mode

cooltigers said:
I get a message
sorry user u r banned from using this forum this ban is not set to expire.
Why? Please help l luv this site

All three of your posts look like those of a spammer. Do you have a gmail address, and hide behind a proxy?

Since you managed to post, you are apparently not banned.
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T3 to 7D.....the right thing?

Hi Marsu.
I thought you would be there to catch me if I slipped up! Glad I got that much correct.

Cheers, Graham.

Marsu42 said:
Valvebounce said:
No expert on ML, but as far as I know the camera boot is interrupted and diverted to load ML from the card, I believe you can boot without ML if you put a clean card in.

Correct, you can also boot w/o ML at any time simply by pressing a designated key (varies between camera models, usually SET).
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APS-C 60mm or 100mm macro lens?

Zeidora said:
Danski: Interesting! Does the Mamiya lens have auto-aperture on a Canon body, or do you have to use working aperture with dark view finder? Working aperture is OK for tripod work, but is a non-starter for hand-held. I had a Zeiss MP 100 C/Y (going to 1:1), but replaced it with the ZE version for automatic aperture, which is critical for me. Overall, I'd prefer a lens that goes straight to 1:1, so now have to use extension tubes. The f/2 of the MP ZE is not that useful; I hardly ever shoot that open.

I somewhat doubt that a Mamyia lens on a Canon body will have auto-aperture. There are also Zeiss 100 mm C/Y lenses on the market, and those are also about half of a new ZE, and I bet they are smaller/lighter, if you are willing to accept working aperture plus adapter.

Not sure I agree with your vignetting point. It is reduced by closing aperture, so an f/4 lens will have less wide open compared to a f/2 all open of same collecting angle or focal length. The vignetting/light fall-off/relative illuminance[Zeiss term on their datasheets] of an f/2 lens at f/4 will the very similar to a f/4 lens at f/4 of same focal length. [that's the reason you use center filters on LF WA, and those are usually optimized for an intermediate apertures]. The 20 mm more on the Mamyia will reduce it by a hair, but once you close f-stop to f/8 or more, as is common in macro, you won't notice any difference any more.

Zeidora-

The Mamiya 120 "A" is 100% manual on a Canon camera.

I have used it mostly in live view. I now have a Fotodiox adapter with focus confirmation, so that should help with eyeballing things.

The focus throw is quite generous and I have found it relatively easy to dial in through the viewfinder.

The Mamiya lens is made for medium format, so it has a larger image circle than a 35mm lens, with the possible exception of the Canon tilt-shift lenses. Any viginetting apparent on the 645 camera should be mostly cut off on a 35mm sensor.

There are numerous anecdotes about "medium format lens rendering" compared to "35mm format lens rendering". This Mamiya 120 lens has very good reviews/feedback wherever you choose to search about it.

The price is quite reasonable, depending on how long you want to look for one.

I suppose that the one drawback is the lack of a tripod collar. Some have used 3rd party collars and spacers (tape) to take up the slack.
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Review: Canon EF 24-105 f/3.5-5.6 IS STM

ahsanford said:
I could see the 6D being kit with this new lens for sure. But the 5D line is a huge bump in price, features, and expectations -- that brand will likely only be kit (by Canon) with an L zoom of fixed max aperture.

- A

The 6D is already kitted with it sometimes, and I firmly believe it will be the only kit option for the 5D4. Personally, I think your fretting over STM being in a "$600" lens is misplaced, when very few people buy kit lenses at full whack - how many actually bought the 24-105L at $1200? None, I hope. Sure, the 18-135 STM is "$550"... but Adorama has almost-new ones for $299, and that sort of lightly-used discount is typical for kit lenses (and also, even if you called it a "step-up" lens in your previous post, it is a kit lens). I bought my 18-135 STM for $240. That sort of discount isn't available for actual step-up lenses like the 70-300L (sadly). They didn't put USM on the 100-400ii, 11-24, 24-70ii, 70-200ii... rest easy in the knowledge that USM will continue to be used on high-end lenses.
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Review: Canon EF 11-24mm f/4L USM

Zv said:
expatinasia said:
Not really a big deal but I do wish Canon would make more of an effort with the bag it provides with such lenses. What is it US$ 3,000 and you can't add a filter so that front element needs even more protection than normal.

Like I said, it's not a deal breaker but how many of us ever use those Canon pouches?! And would you with this lens? I wouldn't.

I use those pouches for storing bits and bobs like an adaptor or batteries. Basically stuff that doesn't beak easily! So they're not entirely useless! :P

Agree with expatinasia -- a $3k lens should probably come with a proper padded enclosure if not a hard case. When that thing stays at home, it should be a very comfortable and protective environment.

- A
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Quiestions, Sir/ Madame and my dear Teachers

ksgal said:
It is how they created the sensor. Pixels on the 70D/7DmkII sensor are very small, more refined than previous crop sensors. Then they took that sensor, and enlarged it to be a full frame sensor, keeping the very refined pixels and = 50mp for the full frame version.

The resolution/resolving power of the crop sensor is really good, one can only imagine you can see hair on the amoeba on the eyelash of the model with this new full frame sensor.

I don't think that's correct. The 7D is a dual pixel sensor, totally different from the single pixel sensor on the new 5DS. Do you have any information that I missed saying the new camera is dual pixel??
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Softboxes: eBay vs. brand name

id go brand name
better build, color and light quality…
for boxes I personally prefer white interior… softer light and last longer.
Plume, Chimera, Profoto or Elenchrom --- those are name brands.
the hard thing for me was find is a good mounting system for speed lights…
ALL the crap on the market is made of flimsy material and or parts that just twist and spin in the wind…
and thats just mounting up a small box … how do you get a sturdy mount for a medium or large box that will first handle the torque/weight and or a bit of wind…
all I found was the profoto RFI mount… its great and will mount two heads!!
but I made my own… this DIY accepts ALL Profoto modifiers… Is sturdy and costs 45.00 that with the bogen mount and lumiquest diffuser… I can mount an umbrella reflector, magnum, soft light or chimera speedring.

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Pocketwizard/600EX-RT question

I had to make my own bracket that would allow TTL sync with canon exrt system and to either PW to profoto or Goddox CL360 transmitter…
the parts are from flash zebra, canon, bogen and sunway… the aluminum bar was just cut and tapped 1/4 20 to mount on bogen mini ball and holes drilled to hold TTL and hotshoe mounts…

this idea came about because how i hate the fact canon did not make a tilting action on the exrt transmitter and when camera is set up high I need a step stool to adjust the settings…
yes I know there is camera back accessible speed light control but just getting to the window is slow…

this bracket so far has worked well and allows more than even two transmitters to sync …

I admit a custom pc out from canon TTL off camera cable would be my next step.

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Review: Canon EF 11-24mm f/4L USM

AshtonNekolah said:
no offense but how the heck you can be so careless with a lens in this price range and quality? its totally unacceptable to be dropping lenses in this class. out of a shoulder bag? I would throw that bag out and get me something promising.

Some idiot in an airport who is messing with his cell phone runs into you and knocks your case off your shoulder causing it to land front element corner down. The case absorbed enough shock to protect the elements but the assembly and IS motor were knocked to hell. It can happen, even with good cases. Sometimes it's just not your day. And that was the 70-200 MK II of ALL lenses..... Donated $350 to CPS that week..... ugh
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70-200mm Mk I vs Mk II

jhpeterson said:
I had a Mk I for about three years and was never really impressed. It seemed to be a little less sharp than either of the two non-IS models I'd owned previously. However, the biggest problem was light falloff throughout the zoom range, not just at the short end. I sent it back to Canon three times for a fix and and it never seemed to get better.
I can't say I had much luck with teleconverters either. I would occasionally use it with a 1.4x EF II when I didn't want to carry my 300 and I would almost always regret my choice. And, the one time I matched it with 2x EF (II), it was such a bad fit that I don't think I got a single sharp shot.
In the last 20+ years, I've had nine Canon zooms in this range of focal lengths, starting with the 80-200/2.8. The IS Mk I was definitely the worst. Maybe I just had a bad copy, but I'm not the only one, as I've talked with others who had similar issues.
The newer version seems better on all counts, greater sharpness, especially wide open, particularly at the long and short ends. There's still some light falloff in the corners, but it's noticeably less. And, it gives reasonably sharp results with my converters, especially the 2x EF III. The images are still no match for what I take with my 300, but they're usable for most everything my clients require. In my book, the Mk II is well worth the premium over the earlier model.

By light falloff you mean vignetting (darker corners)? This is no issue even on f2,8 since the small amount is easy to auto correct in the RAW converter in Photoshop.

I have over the years had at least 6-7 different samples of the 70-200/2,8L IS in my camera bag, some just for short time, others for some longer. I have never experiences any issues with this lens. It was my big favourite inntil I bought the mk.II.
The mk.I is a very good lens, but the mk.II is outstanding. It is simply Canons sharpest zoom lens, and it outperforms almost all fixed lenses in the same range.
The difference? The mk.I has two weaknesses: soft outside the centre image on f2,8 and 200mm, and big problems with lens flare in backlit situations. The mk.II is very sharp even on f2,8 while the mk.I gains on stepping down to f4 especially on 200mm. The IS is also much better on the mk.II
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