I am expecting my new Canon 10-18mm from Adorama any day now! Very excited to get my hands on this baby! The reviews I've seen have been glowing WRT IQ.

Thanks for the replies, very helpful thoughts. I'll be contacting canon before I authorise the fix and may end up not feeding them this time.

I have also had very good experience with Aspen Creek Photo.

Additionally, Finnish cities have great support for bicycle travel, and that's actually quite handy and nice transportation method in the summer time - a bunch of people prefer it over cars and public transportation. If you think of doing that, you'll need to consider reducing the bag weight as much as you can.

Which is why I thought it would be better to know what are you planning to do?

Hmmmm. The 23 is starting to like a Goldilocks height for me......

sorry to say, but a bad shutter

To close the loop, I called Canon and got a very helpful gentleman who informed me that the loyalty program only applies to camera bodies and printers. There are no programs for lenses or speedlites.

I acquired some old lenses and was hoping that there might be a program for those. I'll be heading to craigslist to get rid of them.

Thanks,

-w

beckstoy said:

sagittariansrock said:

beckstoy said:

Hi everyone, I've only recently begun shooting with this method, and I'm totally LOVING the results I'm getting!

I'm wondering, however: I shoot using my 135L on a 5DM3. Does anyone here use the 85mm? I've noticed that with the 135, I'm shooting probably more photos than I need to, but that's because I'm scared I'm going to miss an area (those of you who shoot these photos know what I'm referring to).

Should I get an 85L just for this type of shot? I actually don't have one, but I'd love to have one. Maybe this is the catalyst to push me into that camp.

I've also tried it with my 70-200mm 2.8L m2 at approximately 85mm, but I'm more nervous because of the zoom ring.

Thoughts? Also, if you have good Brenizer Method photos, please share!

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One of the things Brenizer suggests is making sure you have the entire primary subject in one of the shots. This prevents any stitching issues within the main subject. It is very difficult to achieve that with the 135mm. So yes, I think an 85mm FL is necessary. You might be able to make do with a 50/1.2 or even better, the Sigma 85/1.4.
I am waiting for Canon to come up with the 85/1.4 USM (day-dreaming...)

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I'm with you there. I've noticed that it's tough to NOT include the subject in the follow-up shots when using the 135L. That's the primary reason I'm getting that 85.

One of the reasons I'm holding off slightly is to see what Sigma comes out with. Their new 50 and 35 are awesome (I use both and love them deeply), so I'm kinda holding out for their rumored 85 1.4 Art.

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I'm sure the 85 Art will be awesome. The Sigma 85 is already pretty great, adding firmware support to resolve focusing errors will remove the one Achilles heel.

Thanks everybody for the feedback.

I will probably get the 50" Westcott Apollo after I find a buyer for my 2008 13inch MacBook

neuroanatomist said:

Steve said:

neuroanatomist said:

But for BIF, M mode with Auto ISO is pretty close to ideal.

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That might be the case for the 1Dx but I can attest that full manual with a fixed ISO is better for BIF with a 1DIV or 7D. AutoISO is pretty wonky on those bodies. Also, unless I'm missing something, theres no exposure comp and shots against a bright sky will give you a very dark bird. I'm usually metering the sky and bumping between 1 and 2 full stops to get a proper exposure if I've got sky as a background. I guess you could spot meter, but its pretty tough keeping that center point on a moving bird.

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True. Also, 1-series bodies can link spot metering to the active AF point, so I can spot meter on the bird as AI Servo is tracking it (I usually use the 1+8 expansion point selection).

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I was also gonna to mention AF-linked spot-metering as well... . I hope it makes it into the 7D-II, and EC in manual mode. (Nikon has them and RGB metering in lower-than-pro-level bodies.) Then it's all down to how well you track the bird: large smooth-flyers easier, small erratic buggers not-so-easy. Ah well, nobody ever said BiF was gonna be easy.

Thank you all for the replies. I have 2 camera bags with lens dividers so that is what i was referring to. First time owning lenses that come with a case or bag and didnt know what to do with them! Looks like i will leave them at home.

l_d_allan said:

dstppy said:

Back to golf, if John Goodman was a terrible golfer and suddenly he was suddenly in the US Open after picking up a specific set of clubs, I may take interest and buy them.

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Or Charles Barkley?

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I'm pretty sure he still hits better than I do. :

RustyTheGeek said:

RLPhoto said:

5Dc - All my 600rt's - 24-105L + 50mm f/1.8'

That's pretty much all I would need.

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I like your style RL! I think we're on the same wavelength... if one were paring down, it would likely be due to finances so the most expensive stuff like $2K lenses and new bodies would go first.

That would indeed leave me with my 5Dc, etc. And I could live with that.

My kit would be similar to yours....

5Dc, 24-105L, 580EX-II, 16-35Lv1 and 15mm Fisheye. If I were lucky, I might be able to keep the 70-200 f/4 IS L too! I also wouldn't mind still having my trusty 28 f/1.8 Prime for low light and that could be instead of the FishEye if necc. This is essentially the gear that I felt super great working up to and using years ago and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

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I'll manage without the newest tech but I'll keep my lighting gear.

On a funny note, a thread about slimming down gear when I just jumped into MF digital is quite ironic.

AlanF said:

I don't think the OP is lying. Also the sellers do sell iPad cases and so I don't think someone switched - simply, the wrong order was sent and the OP screwed up because of the delays and the seller behaved badly. Maybe someone somewhere ordered iPad cases and got a 6D + 24-105 and decided to keep it. But, not a scam.

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The op states that the box he received was full of "empty" iPad cases. This implies that the seller shipped him a bunch of trash meant for the recycle bin. I simply don't believe the buyer is being fully truthful here. I'm even wondering if the buyer is trying to pull off his own scam. None of it adds up.

Hi Folks.
When we were last on holiday in Cumbria playing in the snow in our Landrover I stopped at the side of the road to capture the view. I'm mid forties not too portly and was dressed for the climate, a little old lady in a beat up small hatchback, think VW Polo for size, stopped to check I didn't need help, she passed us and came back a few minutes later, I thought it was real sweet of her to check, I guess she could have given us a lift to find a bigger tow car!
At least her offer was well intentioned, I guess that was karma doing the rounds, as I had helped get a small van out of an icy car park the previous day!

Cheers Graham.

AcutancePhotography said:

mackguyver said:

Each time, I was away from the car shooting when I heard honks or people shouting asking if I was okay.

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Consider yourself very lucky. Where I live, you can be laying on the ground bleeding and no one would even slow down.

I remember when I was living in Utah. I decided to pull over to the side of the road to look at a map. (you see, kids, back then we had these large pieces of paper with symbols on them that helped us navigate).

In about 3 minutes I had several people stop and ask me if I needed any help. Friendly people there.

Where I live now (DC area), if you pull over to the side of the road either someone will shoot and rob you or the police will beat you up and rob you... uh I mean arrest you for suspicious activity and confiscate evidence.. that will get lost.

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l_d_allan said:

mrsfotografie said:

I find I'm looking at (used) lenses in the 5000 euro range now (!!!) so apparently the comfort zone increases as far as the wallet can take it...

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You (and the OP) could consider renting the "Chess Board set" from Lensrentals:
http://www.lensrentals.com/rent/canon/lenses/supertelephoto/lensrentals-chess-set

shipping is $1100 to $2400, depending on location.

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That's a really great idea ;D

l_d_allan said:

jdramirez said:

Abe's went out of business... their name was sold to a shady nyc company... they try and up sale you now. Not cool.

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Oddly, AOM seems to be located in NJ.

Any idea of when AOM went belly-up? I have bought from them in the past with ok results, but I did have to keep saying "NO" to the add-ons.

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I feel like it was two years ago... but a Google search will be more accurate than me.

Sporgon said:

Neat detective work Mack. ! How did you manage to find the original picture ?

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I'm wondering the same thing.

My impression is that there is software that can find matches for a specific image, such as a local image that it somehow scans the web to check if it is somewhere "out there". Doesn't seem possible that this could be done in a reasonable amount of time, but that apparently is the case.

Maybe?
http://www.plagiarismtoday.com/2014/02/06/using-google-image-search-license-photographs/

RLPhoto said:

wsmith96 said:

RLPhoto said:

Ebay is good. I've bought and Sold lots of equipment through them. I'm selling alot of my kit right now at the moment and I know someone somewhere will buy it.

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What are you selling?

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http://www.ebay.com/usr/elzaz444

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Thanks! - Checked it out, but nothing I was looking for. I'll be in San Antonio next weekend which would have been convenient.

Regards,
-w

DigglerDawg said:

Mine has always produced a good handful of red or other-coloured pixels on long exposures. The longer exposure, the more (at least obvious) coloured pixels are produced. I have no problem in healing them out, but I'm not sure if I'd be so pleased with 900-odd. Shorter exposures in the handheld-range rarely show any.

A used 1DSIII seems to be fetching only around £1100-£1200 now (bad news for me) so, as others have said, I guess you really have to accept the age-related issues you might come across. It's still a damn-good camera when used correctly, especially at it's current used-price. Just be careful hanging that beast with L lenses from your neck - my neck is permanently damaged!

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It seems that the older the camera are, the more dead pixels it has. I am not very annoyed about the dead/hot pixels.
Thanks you

mackguyver said:

privatebydesign said:

So the answer.

Three lenses, all Canon 50's the 1.8, the 1.4 and the 1.2L.

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Hmm, could foreground/background distance relationship have more to do with shallow DOF than the aperture? Or PP vs. native lens contrast? I think so. I think the only shot is obviously not to the f/1.4 or f/1.2 and that's the little figurine with the book because the bokeh looks less smooth. Then again, poor use of contrast in post could make bokeh harsh, too.

Nice challenge - maybe you should start a new one in its own thread - battle of the 35L vs. f/2 IS vs. f/2.8 or maybe 70-200 f/2.8 (all versions) vs. 135 f/2?

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The distance relationship was a big part of how I guessed. There is one with a girl sitting in a field pretty far away from the camera. The shallower depth of field in that one, I think could only be from the 1.2 wide open. It is pretty extreme for that distance. Like wise, the Horse is relatively close, if it were the 1.2 wide open, there would be a much smaller slice in focus.

I based my guesses on the fact that all of the lenses were shot wide open, but that isn't true, and some of the photos have been blurred artificially, like the one of the lady looking up the roof. There is no way to get that plane of focus without a tilt shift lens, or some post processing.

Still this was fun, and I say make more of these. Just make sure the exif shows the lenses wide open, and watchout for any major manipulation.

Also, it is too late to do the math, but my 50% correct was significantly better than guessing. Guessing would average a 33%, and that additional 17% is hard to come buy, especially when there were shots stopped down, and manipulated in post. So I feel pretty good that you can see differences.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Most reputable online dealers let you retrieve a invoice online. Local ones keep records and usually can duplicate one. I almost always buy from either Adorama, or from a small local camera shop in Couer D Alene Idaho. They employee real photographers, and I like to do my share of keeping a few of the old fashioned shops around. One small local photo store for Pros just closed shop recently.

I buy a ton of stuff from Amazon, but not Cameras.

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Doing a quick inventory of my gear....

used... out of warranty
new... with receipt in email and account, but out of warranty
used... out of warranty
new... with receipt in email, still under warranty
used... out of warranty
used... out of warranty
used... reported stolen... there's a whole backstory here... but the story isn't done yet...
new... with receipt in email and in account, still under warranty
used... out of warranty.

Honestly, I've never had a lens or body go bad on me... so either I keep it well protected or I've been very lucky.

Air conditioning.

I've been shooting professionally (weddings/portraits) with the old 5d since they came out in 2005. I still use them as back ups to my 5d mk 2s and 5d mk3. They are very capable cameras and have it where it counts in terms of image quality. If you are looking for full frame, then go for it.

That said, the 6D has more resolution, a far superior AF, and vastly improved high ISO performance. Its hard to beat the price for one refurbished through Canon. If you are interested in picking up a 5d used, send me a message. I have one left. My other was used to trade up to a 5d mk3 through Canon's loyalty program.

Blessings,

Don

An older post on page two of this sub-forum reveals Jack to be the teacher of the kids to be interviewed so he is good to go with that 50mm. Just the ticket for inspiring them. Sounds like fun project.
Jonathan