Posts

kaihp · Jun 19, 2014

tomscott said:
Just a quick update, lens replacement arrived today and its perfect

That's a happy (photo) ending

KKCFamilyman · Jun 19, 2014

I agree. The wb accuracy, metering, color rendition are noticeably better than my 5d. Just have to get used to the weight but thats why I think the 5d and 1d make a great pair. The af accuracy is much better to me. Only thing is wish the power switch was like the 5d and the live view/video switch was there but thats not a deal breaker.

Khufu · Jun 18, 2014

Haydn1971 said:
Sounding interesting... But why is it a III ? what happened to I & II ???

It's Tamron's naming convention for FF, Crop and MILCs; Di I, Di II and Di III, respectively

surapon · Jun 18, 2014

sanj said:
Dearest friend. That seems like too much equipment. My helpful suggestion is to reduce a bit. Why do you think you need more than one camera?

Dear friend and My teacher Mr. sanj .
You are right, Sir------For this trip, I just only need EOS-M with 18-55 mm Lens and 12 bottle of water on my back.
Yes, I am right too, Because of the Windy and Dusty ( Dust mini tornado in the parks) all the time, and If I change the Lenses to just one camera body---Ha, Ha, Ha = So many UFO in the sky of all photos.
Thanks you, sir for your great comments.
Surapon

GMCPhotographics · Jun 18, 2014

jrista said:
LetTheRightLensIn said:

jrista said:

The crazy thing is that storage space doesn't seem to be advancing as quickly as it use to anymore. It was quite a number of years ago that we hit 2Tb....then a few years ago that we hit 3Tb, and now only recently have 4Tb drives have begun to become "affordable" (the ones with TERRIBLE access times are still around $150, and the ones with faster access times are still in the $220-$300 range). There are less than a handful of 6Tb drives on the market, and only LaCie seems to be selling 5Tb hard drives...both of which are at lest $300 a pop if not considerably more expensive.

While larger hard drives, all built with the same semi-reliable technology that has been plaguing computer users for decades, trickle slowly onto the market, our data use needs are RAPIDLY growing. As video, especially 4k video, becomes more accessible, I think 48Gb worth of video files is only the beginning! And as still image sizes skyrocket to 40, 50, 70 megapixels and beyond... Yeesh...I shudder to think about the costs of storing it all. Cloud services aren't even remotely "there" yet when it comes to space/dollar, and then you have to deal with transferring tens or hundreds of gigs across the wire.

Click to expand...

Yeah I really wish some of that next generation tech had come to fruition already. We need ultra fast many TB reliable, safe storage, yesterday!

Click to expand...

Aye! I really wish multi-TB sized 10 million hour MTBF SSDs would finally hit the streets. I picked up a 500Gb SSD recently for $200, which was a STEAL...but it was still $200...and for only 500Gb. :\

Really can't wait until I have three or four terrabytes of SSD drive space zipping along at 600Mbit per second or more.

Three years ago i bought a vertex III 240gb SSD. It cost me £400 and was state of the art. Now I can buy a 500gb Samsung (a better drive) for less than £300, so the data capacity has doubled and the price has come down a lot.

Valvebounce · Jun 18, 2014

Hi xps.
There is loads of information out there, if you do a little googling it will help you understand the differences between AFMA and CPS calibration. You really should AFMA each lens to your body if it supports it before trying to make comparisons to eliminate (or reduce) the effect of manufacturing tolerances and wear variation between samples.
For info on sample variation you could do worse than read Rogers blog at lens rentals!

Cheers Graham.

xps said:
All lenses were adjusted by Canon CPS in spring this year. But only on their "home" cameras.
Ok, the sharpness will be influenced by that, but does AFMA influence the AF performance too?
Same situation, my lens got about 60% sharp, the worst of the three just about thirty? But why?

tayassu · Jun 18, 2014

davejdoe said:
Thanks for all the posts! I just picked up the 35mm on Monday. So far I am very impressed with the build quality and sharpness. Cant wait to get more time with it...

Have fun with your new lens!!

sagittariansrock · Jun 18, 2014

privatebydesign said:
That has been asked before, and I seem to recall the Mods answer was that as Fred Miranda is already has a sales area that is well set up, moderated, and has a good reputation, that another competing service didn't make much sense.

Good point, and I have purchased their Upload and Sell subscription and have sold a few and bought a few. But I have only 30 posts there compared to a 1000 here, (FWIW :

) and the forum posting system there is still a bit odd for me, and I don't feel like I know anyone there...

On topic: I am usually extremely attached to all my stuff (photographic and otherwise) up to the point that I have sold them. But I also dislike clutter to the point of obsession and have a small apartment.
Unfortunately the former force is stronger, so I keep finding ways to efficiently pack away unused stuff... 8)

At this point I have an EOS 650 and some film that I cannot give away or sell. Works fine, and I use it once in a while. Using IR film might be a good use for that, suggestions?

Mr_Canuck · Jun 17, 2014

It's worth considering that you can buy the 10-18 AND an SL1 or T4i for the same price as the 16-35, or less. As a full-frame user, I sometimes wonder about this...

dcm · Jun 17, 2014

wickidwombat said:
anyone seen mtf's yet?
cant wait to see some samples too
gonna be interesting to see how it tracks
i've found the 135f2L works pretty damn good in servo mode on the M

Posted MTFs in the other thread.
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=21369.msg405845#msg405845

bdunbar79 · Jun 17, 2014

AvTvM said:
jrista said:

You could even take shots of the marshmallows that unicorn is crapping out as it flys around on it's magical cloud.

Click to expand...

Hehehe!

Unfortunately Canon's unicorns are of the non-aviatory kind.

And non-migratory I suspect?

Mr_Canuck · Jun 17, 2014

I like blur and impressionism. I don't think anybody understood I actually meant to take these shots: http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=21272.0

And nice legs.

But I don't think either of these is perverted.

SPL · Jun 17, 2014

I started with film also…developed my own film in college and for a few years after. Always wanted to convert the downstairs bathroom into a darkroom, but never happened. I miss it, it was a lot of fun, but digital is so much easier. I did learn a lot and I think I can still kinda smell the chemicals today. I agree with several people,…it was always very cool to see that image come to life in the developer tray. For several months now, I have an itch to pick up a 500 CM and give 120 a try…

tayassu · Jun 17, 2014

Synkka said:
I haven't been to Mt Yasur but I was recently in Vanuatu I didn't see any wildlife worth using a telephoto, I only shot with a 14mm the whole trip for seaside landscapes.

I never shot on a volcano, but, fromwhat I read, I think it's pretty important to have something wider than 'just' 24mm. Depending on your Budget, a Rokinon/Bower/Samyang/Walimex 2.8/14mm, a Tokina 2.8/16-28mm, any Zeiss UWA prime or even the new Canon 4/16-35 would certainly serve the purpose.

tayassu · Jun 17, 2014

I would not buy the Sigma, as I heard to many bad things about the quality control. The Tokina 2.8/11-16mm is for APS-C an absolute top-notch performer IQ-wise. But for me, it is important to have a bit more reach than just 26mm (35mm equivalent). To not have to change lenses all the time, I love having something in the 24mm range(38mm FF equivalent). That's why I went with the Tokina 4/12-24 II. It is nearly as good as the 11-16 optically and there is a new version out, the 4/12-28mm, which should be even better. In your case, I would go with that one.

YuengLinger · Jun 17, 2014

It does sound like it's working (because you get good focus on your AF point) but that, after a maximum aperture of f/4 on your 24-105mm, you are just now learning the delights and challenges of shallow depth of field.

Also, while this lens is a good performer, as you get down to the max, f/1.4, things tend to soften a little dead center, and significantly out to the edges of the frame. And don't expect the sharpness to be perfectly symmetrical--that is, even with a great body, good AFMA, and an excellent copy of the lens, there might be one edge or corner of the frame at f/1.4 that is somewhat sharper or softer than others.

But the lens is TONS of fun, can produce awesome images when all things (exposure, composition, focus, lighting, subject) align, and is so light and convenient. I tend to use mine on a 60D and can get some very cinematic types of results.

And my AF is accurate and super-quick. I really do need to use it on my 5D3 more often, but I will admit I'm in the queue for the Sigma 50mm Art, chasing that slightly better image quality and edge to edge sharpness like a junkie chases a high (some might say...).

Steve · Jun 17, 2014

Mt Spokane Photography said:
You can buy a good functioning one for 600-700 dollars, so paying for a broken one that probably cannot be repaired, or which may have additional serious issues once the repair company opens it up, is a huge risk.

The risk is actually pretty low. You can sell broken camera equipment on ebay pretty easily exactly because someone out there probably needs it for parts. I see broken, out of production lenses and camera bodies going for half or more of the value of a functioning copy pretty often. I'd be willing to bet that a lot of the people buying broken gear on ebay are the camera repair shops looking to stock parts.

privatebydesign · Jun 16, 2014

dgatwood said:
IMO, the default rendering is what you get when you compute the color information using the camera-provided AWB color temperature value from the RAW file's EXIF data. Any other color temperature value is a user decision, whereas the camera-provided AWB value is what the camera believes to be "truth".

When what computes the colour information? Every program that does the computing will do a different job, the relationship of colours within that program can all set the same WB but still render colours completely differently.

Here are three versions of the same image and they all have the same WB, but the colours are very different, which is "correct"? All I did was tweak the red channel in the camera profile tab. There is no "native" in rendering RAW files, there just isn't.

ajfotofilmagem · Jun 16, 2014

The old model Canon 18-135mm (without STM) is actually exceeded by the image quality and mechanical. I believe that the performance of the image stabilizer is really what appears in the video, but it's hard to believe that Fuji works so much better, even at speeds to 1 full second.

ajfotofilmagem · Jun 16, 2014

Each specific camera model has its advantages and weaknesses. I'll try to summarize:

Nikon D7100 has the best resolution, and when used as a high quality lenses can provide sharper images. The picture quality is the best of the three at ISO100, but loses this advantage above ISO800.

Canon 70D has a similar resolution to the D7100, but takes advantage above ISO800. It is the only of the three that makes continuous autofocus during video, and combined with STM lens is very fast, quiet, and fits smoothly. All STM lenses launched so far have high image quality, and its mechanics are superior to traditional models in the same price range. The articulated LCD touchscreen is great and just tap your finger on the image of the object, the AF will follow it effectively.

Canon 7D is a camera "bulletproof" but the image quality is outdated, and loses to the other two in this regard. But 7D is the fastest camera, and makes 8 frames per second.

DigitalDivide · Jun 16, 2014

It is hard to tell from the recording how loud your lens is. My 17-40 makes a barely audible noise when zooming; if I put my ear close to the lens then I can hear a smooth swoosh with something that sounds like gear noise superimposed on top of it. It is not something I ever noticed with the lens on the camera. If yours is like that then I'd guess it's probably fine. How long have you owned it? If you've had it a while and it recently got a lot more noticeable, then it might be a good idea to get it checked out.

Valvebounce · Jun 16, 2014

Hi Olaf.
Glad it all ended well, and the 70-200 f2.8 II is truly awesome.

Cheers Graham.

vargyropoulos · Jun 16, 2014

hi Logan,

thanks for your initial response. I did get a chance to play with the 600 setup over the past weekend, using a 6D & 7D.

I think the focusing issues may be more camera related. I did notice quite an improvement in focus accuracy when I had good light on my subject. the egret in question on my original post was sort of back lit... I had a 3pm sun, shooting towards that direction... white egrets in general gave me a lot of problems.

it could be a FF vs crop sensor too, but the images off the 6D with the same lens, on the same subject/distance/light were much sharper.

I will agree with you that it requires good lines of contrast to lock on focus. I think this is where I was headed in my initial question... if the subject is too far to accurately resolve the details, focus is off... not to mention that the actual focus point in the image had a lot of variation with the focus point that was selected... in some images, the focus was in an area 2-3 points away from the point that supposedly had the "AF lock"

Menace · Jun 16, 2014

scottkinfw said:
Wow. With all these problems, I think I will just wait to upgrade to the EOS M II. Do you think it will be released in the US by Christmas?

Yes - Christmas 20XX

wickidwombat · Jun 15, 2014

megmo said:
Thanks y'all for a very helpful discussion.

I ended up buying the 70D on Amazon (body only) and got it for $999 (well, $890 since I had some Amazon points to blow). For the money, I think it'll be a great camera for what I do and hopefully last me at least 8 years like my old trusty Rebel XTi did.

I'm also going to continue to save up for a better lens. I'm not sure if I'm ready to move up to an L series, but right now I'm mainly using a Sigma 28-70 f/2.8 and a Canon 60mm macro. Which are good (especially the macro) but I'd love to get a lens with a big wow-factor eventually.

Anyway, thanks again for all of the help!

In your position i would get the sigma 18-35 f1.8 first it looks like a perfect match for a 70D IMO and your 28-70 covers the longer end nicely with a bit of overlap
and for the money Id grab the 10-18 IS canon STM to cover UWA

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