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Feb 20, 2014

Really Right Stuff, Kirk, Markins, Acratech, and the actual Arca-Swiss brand are all excellent (although many people choose to replace the Arca brand clamp with an RRS or Wimberley, which Arca recently made harder by using threadlocker on the clamp). Avoid Gitzo heads, more proprietary plates there (both Manfrotto and Gitzo are owned by the same outfit).

JustMeOregon · Feb 19, 2014

Frodo said:
Saffier said:

Frodo said:

However, coma is an issue. I took a milky way shot and coma from city lights at the bottom edge (portrait format) was very noticeable.

Click to expand...

Is it possible for you to post this picture? I took a look at lenstip.com but I'm interested in a real life example of this coma issue at F2.0. That would really help in the decision I want to make.

Click to expand...

Here you are. I took this quickly off a table top tripod. Details 5DmkII, 35mmf/2IS, 15 sec @ f2, ISO 1600. The max aperture of f/2 allowed me to shoot at 15 seconds avoiding star trails. However, you can see the coma in the lights on the bottom left and stars in the top. Stars are sharp and coma free in the centre of the photo.

Wow! That coma is really bad! I had no idea...

docsmith · Feb 19, 2014

The 5DIII, 24-70 II, and 70-200 II is a great travel kit. Add in a 2x TC III and you really have a lot covered right there.

I would only be adding primes for very specific purposes, as has already been pointed out. One prime not mentioned is the Sigma 35 f/1.4 Art. I don't yet own it, but it is on my list. Its purpose for your kit would be low light photography, think DoF, and relatively tight landscapes.

Otherwise, your kit is very solid. You may want to consider a good tripod, CPL filters and graduated filters.

bseitz234 · Feb 19, 2014

neuroanatomist said:
LewisShermer said:

you can put a 100mp sensor in a phone and a 10,000x zoom but you're still going to get shitty images with a shitty lens with shitty auto focus with shitty 1 second delay with shitty shitty shitty S___

Click to expand...

Yeah, but who cares…it's a smartphone. Instant Facebook uploads anytime, anywhere. Post your dinner plate, post your cat, capture and post your S___ right NOW.

Yepp, you can take a 16mp image of your dinner so Facebook can down-res and compress it to look exactly the same as a 4mp image taken with an old nokia.

On a more serious note, I'm curious why this can do 4k/30p and 1080/60p and most (all?) DSLRs cannot. Is it just that the smaller sensor has less overheating issues? Canon marketing not wanting to cannibalize cinema EOS? Some combination of the two?

EdFab · Feb 19, 2014

Hi Jes,

What solution did you come up with for settings and profiles to match the 60D and the C100. I'm trying to do this as well and have to fight against the C100's extra sharpness. Thanks.

cayenne · Feb 19, 2014

kubamadej said:
Wow, this got a lot more interest and replies than I thought. Thanks for everyone who took the time to answer, a lot of great advice was offered.

I saw a bunch of recommendations to invest in the canon f2.8 ii IS. While I have no doubts it's a fantastic lens, I can't help but make the comparrision to when I was buying my camera body a few months back. I was looking at a 6D vs. a 5Dm3 and also got a lot of ''get the 5D, it's the best'' (excluding the 1DX) and many people saying I'll regret the AF system in the 6D. But I got the 6D (for 1400$ new), and I'm thrilled with it. It takes stunning pictures, the AF has 99% been flawless and the few times it hasn't, I've made adjustments and got on with it. I borrowed a friends 5D for a day and while it's a better camera, I can't help but feel I got 90% of the camera for half the price.

Point of that was to say I don't feel I need the best of the best, I'm more looking for excellent quality without resorting to robbing a bank. Therefore I feel I just can't justify the extra money the canon will cost me. If I'm going down the used or refurbished (something I did for my other lens and I'll gladly do again), the tamron offers me savings of at least 600$.

As for the other options mentioned, the canon f4 IS looks fantastic, my only concern is that if i decide to attach a 2X converter, I'd loose autofocus. The converter would be a last option, but it would be nice to have that reach if I so decide. I'm also concerned about people posting that the m1 version of the 2.8 IS has much worse IQ. Can Tamron and Sigma really not make a lens in the same ballpark as canon? Both the sigma and tamron are newish lens as well.

Again, thanks for all the great replies, keep them coming.

When it comes to thinking between lenses and bodies....err on the side of spending more on lenses.

You can't go wrong investing your dollars on good glass. You can do with a lessor body, but you will do well to save those extra dollars, wait a bit longer...and splurge on the good glass.

magna42 · Feb 19, 2014

+1 on the Sony RX100 v1. I have one and the IQ is very good and it is truly pocketable (Shirt or pants)

tron · Feb 19, 2014

SophieCarrPhotography said:
Hmmmm, so much to still think about!
Thanks for all the advice/recommendations.
So far I've found that I could rent the Zeiss 21mm but not the 15mm (haven't found anywhere in the UK yet anyway) and I'd have to buy the Samyang/Rokinon for about £320. I did just look at some of my photos from Iceland taken last year and most of them are at around 30-45mm so now I'm thinking maybe I should just leave the 24-70mm at home and hire a 17-40mm as my all-purpose landscape one! Would save a bit of weight... Probably won't get any stars or aurora if my luck is anything to go by anyway! Such a shame there's not a 14-24mm equivalent of the Nikon one.

Murphy's Law: If you bring just your 17-40 f/4L slow, coma inducing lens you will have plenty of stars and aurora ;D

caruser · Feb 19, 2014

A good reminder to finally dig into the Servo customisation features of the 1DX; I quickly got comfortable with everything else the 1DX offers, but that's ... one heck of a large subject and coming from the 5D2 I still lack a lot of experience with advanced AF!

ajndesign · Feb 19, 2014

distant.star said:
.
The more I think about this camera, I can't help but wonder...

Is it really just a toy for the dilettantes?

Who pays $800 + (the EVF toy, lens hood, etc. don't forget) for a point & shoot camera in a vanishing market segment?

It's small enough to be "not a DSLR," yet it's not really small enough to put in a pocket (like my venerable S95).

I don't see anyone buying this as a sole camera. It has to be a second camera, and it really only makes sense as a second to the FF DSLR models. Everything in the APS-C realm (Canon's anyway) will perform rings around it.

Since it doesn't really fit into any Canon "system," it has to compete directly with similar products being produced by Sony, etc. The EOS-M at least had a system connection and relation. I don't see it doing well against similar, perhaps more innovative products.

As usual, I have more questions than answers. Perhaps over the next few months reliable reviews will start being published and the true pedigree of this camera will emerge.

I've ordered one, and it will be my only camera.

pedro · Feb 19, 2014

Hi, just stumbled upon this.

What is the Canon equivalent to it in this field?

http://thenewcamera.com/new-foveon-sensor-patent-by-sigma/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+NewCamera+%28New+Camera%29

Looking forward to the late 2014 DSLR announcement(s) at least sensor tech wise. No need for a new cam. 5D3 is still great and kicking ;-)

Regards, Peter

TexasBadger · Feb 18, 2014

I would recommend the 85 f1.8. It can be had for ~$400 and it has the fastest focus of all of my lenses. Great for portraits and action photography.

wickidwombat · Feb 18, 2014

get a short cheap ettl cable of ebay to attach the ste2 to incase you need to position the flash somewhere else because it needs line of sight to work ie if the flash is more off to the side the ste2 arc of line of sight might be out of reach

something like this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TTL-0-4m-Flash-Cord-for-Canon-eTTL-1-and-eTTL-2-/110643818915?pt=AU_Cameras_Photographic_Accessories&hash=item19c2e2b1a3&_uhb=1

or the better brand but a bit more $
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Phottix-OC-E3-Off-Camera-ETTL-Flash-Remote-Cable-for-Canon-/221295313366?pt=AU_Flashes&hash=item33863a81d6&_uhb=1

mrzero · Feb 18, 2014

Saw this little tidbit on the very last page. What's up with that?

"The PowerShot G1 X Mark II Enhanced Grip Edition (available in Europe, Middle East and Africa) features a large ergonomic grip for excellent handling. Some images in this document show the smaller grip version, not available in Europe, Middle East and Africa."

Does that mean that (1) the bigger grip is integrated, rather than an add-on, and (2) the Americas are getting only the skinny grip?

EDIT -- nevermind, cancel the outrage. Just saw this on Canon USA's site: http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/custom-grip-gr-dc1A

stephan00 · Feb 18, 2014

Thanks, you pretty much summed it up

I'll give it a miss then.

Oldcanonman · Feb 18, 2014

Hi again

Yeah, the A1 was my camera in the film days. Canon should mash these bodies together and they would right on the money in the retro space. Looking at that 650 makes me think the EM 1 is pretty close in grip ergonomics. Thanks again.

bholliman · Feb 18, 2014

The 24-70 2.8 II and 70-300L are two terrific lenses. If size and weight are really important for travel, you may consider the 24-70 F/4 IS instead of the 2.8 II, as it's much lighter and nearly as good optically. If you did this, I would defiantly recommend a fast prime 35-85mm) as well, as with two f/4 zooms, your ability to shoot shallow DOF would be somewhat limited.

Eldar said:
PikkieChick said:

Eldar said:

The 17-40 is a lot of lens for the money, but I would rather have a fast UWA prime, probably a Zeiss.

Click to expand...

Yes agree re Primes and I will do that once I see what focal lengths I use the most. What about the 16-35mm instead of the 17-40mm ?

Click to expand...

It is important to think through what you will use it for. I rarely use wider than 24mm if people are in the frame, due to distortion.

This is excellent advice. I rarely shoot wider than 24mm, so decided to go with the inexpensive Rokinon 14mm 2.8 instead of one of the more expensive UWA zooms that are really not particularly good IMHO. The Zeiss 15mm and 21mm as well as the 17 TSE are other great options depending on how much you want to spend.

CarlTN · Feb 18, 2014

wickidwombat said:
nice review as usual but i'm not sure how this will do against the canon 100 f2.8L
I bought my canon for a bit over $800 a couple of years ago brand new off ebay (from digital rev I think)

so there is not much of a price gap certainly not one worth the trade offs related to going tamron over canon

especially considering you say the build isn't up to the canon, its got 10mm less focal length which is important in macro

dunno how it will do its certainly not a situp and take notice lens like the 150-600 or even the new 24-70 and 70-200 combo vs their much more expensive canon competitors

i think this tamron will have a huge price drop in a while when they dont sell well, once that happens they will become more popular no doubt. I think its price needs to be in the $400 to $500 range to have more appeal to people looking for good optics at a lower cost to the canon or nikon genuine lenses

But how do you really feel about it?

IsaacImage · Feb 18, 2014

Tanx for the test.
Once again I'm in love with my 85 1.2 ))

wickidwombat · Feb 18, 2014

you should also have a good look at the new version tokina 11-16mm f2.8

Personally i'd go with this as having a fast aperture wide angle can be very usefull for things other than landscapes

I think on a 70D i would go with
tokina 11-16 f2.8 for wide
sigma 18-35 f1.8 for normal

wait for the new 50mm with is from canon or the new sigma 50mm

and you already have good glass at the longer end

wickidwombat · Feb 17, 2014

RGF said:
Hi

I am considering buying a high MP body for landscapes. Right now Canon does not a high MP body (5DM3 is 22 MP), not quite high MP.

As i see it, there are 2 high MP 35mm bodies - Nikon D800 and Sony alpha A7R. I think both use the same sensory though there is a difference in cost - the nikon is 3300 vs 2300 for the Sony.

I think it will be easier to attach a canon lens (such as the 17mm T/S) to the Alpha as well as attach the Nikon 14-24 to the Alpha (is this true) than the Canon 17mm T/S to the Nikon. Is this true?

Other lens to consider? With the Nikon 14-24 is there any reason to use the Canon 14mm?

Other thoughts are welcome.

Thanks

i think the a7r and the canon 17mm TSE would be a pretty hard combo to beat by anything at the moment

grahamclarkphoto · Feb 17, 2014

Rodeo Beach Sunset | 276s F22 ISO 50 17mm
Download the .ARW and .TIFF files here here: http://www.grahamclarkphoto.com/sony-a7r-field-notes-with-canon-ef-lenses/

AlanF · Feb 17, 2014

I did one test: the brick wall! Trinity College's Tudor brick chimney. The 70D and the 5DIII were on a tripod for this test, both at f/8 and 600mm with the Tamron. From top to bottom; 70D scaled down to 1200x800; 5DIII scaled down to 1200x800; 100% crop from centre of the full-sized 70D; very bottom, the centre from the full-sized 5DIII upscaled by 1.5x. If you crop the centre 200x200 the 70D is slightly better, but the image is too small anyway to be of any use.

Both lenses were AFMAd 3xtimes, Dilbert.

I think the 5DIII image is better. But, it's only one example under one set of conditions.

mackguyver · Feb 17, 2014

Surfwooder said:
Canon made a deal with Tamron to release the specs. for the Canon lenses, in turn Tamron had to release the first batch of lenses only with Canon mounts.

Where did you hear this? That makes no sense given that they are competitors. 3rd parties release Canon/Nikon mounts first because of sales volume (compared to Sony, for example), not because of a deal with the OEM.

lw · Feb 17, 2014

Hillsilly said:
mackguyver said:

I can't speak for their stock, but the last several Sony products I've bought have been junk. Two of them died on days 91 and 93 of their 90-day warranty... They Sony of my childhood seems to no longer exist.

Click to expand...

A 90 days warranty seems quite short?

In the EU those same Sony products have a 2 year warranty, and are required to do so by law.

I am not aware of any evidence to suggest that Sony products consistently fail within their warranty period.

But I bet there are lots of similar stories claiming Sony products fail on day 731... (or 732 if there was a leap year

)

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