nc0b said:

There was a comment that light falls off at an inverts square standpoint as one backs away from a subject. That is true if you are using on-camera flash. With existing light there is no change in the brightness of the subject regardless of distance to the camera.

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That is correct because it still follows the inverse square law. This can be one of the more difficult things to learn about off camera flash. It is the distance from the light source (sun or flash) to the subject that is important, not the distance from the camera to the subject.

Thanks to CanonPriceWatch, I was about to spend another $ 373 on a 600EX-RT when I stopped at the last moment.
But it is a great price for the flash. Use the code TEDDYRFD. Shipping is free. I understand some low-end lenses are also included, but don't know which ones.

Innovation and therefor advantage go hand in glove. Canon design & fabricate sensors and they have benefitted by doing so. Currently Hasselblad, Phase One & Pentax are all using Sony 50MP CMOS sensor so all three premium brands cannot clain a unique selling point. Leica used CMOSIS to design their M 240 camera sensor which is made in a foundry in France. This IS unique to them but CMOSIS uses its IP to make "custom" sensor designs for clients.

Fuji / Panasonic are working together on organic sensors with BSI but Panasonic have sold their fab plants to TowerJazz. Fab plants are expensive to build & operate, Canon needs to move to its new um .18 process which is expensive but the sensors will likely not only be in cameras but surveilance etc. which spreads the financial outlay.

Apart from being able to dive deeper and few more "kids modes", this looks like same as the D20. Same fps, same ISO, same lens, same HD video, same 12mp sensor, same DIGIC 4 processor.

______________
Mohsin

I find it really interesting that the lens has, apparently, 1/3rd stop less vignetting on the D800 than the 5D3.

1) if you save RAW to one card, and JPEG to the other, the card that gets the RAWs will always fill sooner, because RAW files are a lot larger than the same image as a JPEG.

2) if both cards get the same files, the format can cause the actual, formatted capacity to be different than the labeled capacity, and/or different between types of card.

privatebydesign said:

That is insanity, your Choice 1 costs $920 plus the three flashes you have valued at $750 for a total of $1670. Four 600EX RT cost $1600 refurb, or $1800 new, throw in a YN E3 RT for $100 or save a little and get a ST E3 RT for $200 and you have 100% reliability, you are future proofed and your depreciation is practically zero.

I am all for cheap when it is cheap, and you cant beat the Chinese dumb radio triggers and manual flashes for cheap, but a couple of hundred dollars difference at these prices makes no sense to me.

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That my friend depends on whether you want to cash your existing kit and lock everything into Canon kit.....IF that is what you want then that is a good decision. I am quite happy with my old 580/430 guns, which I consider to be sunk cost. Your point however is valid, and I could cash them if I wished.
Your point about being future proofed is true perhaps (?) as is the fact that your backward compatibility is zero!

Now as to prices quoted !
Mine were bog standard B&H prices ....not super deals from XYZ Super deals on Ebay or refurb!

Using Bog standard B&H Prices as at 24/09/2014, 4 X Canon EX RTs = $2196
Add an ST e3 RT @ $278
Total = $2474

So even If I cashed in the old Flash Guns for $750, the change over DIFFERENCE is about ($2474-$920-$750) $804.....and backward compatibility is zero....want another light? ....no choice other than another 600 ex rt @ whatever the market is?

My Point...there are Deals on ALL Kit...not just Canon. (eg I got my Mitros+ for $350, and I bought my Odins cheaper than the prices quoted as well) You are comparing "Super Deal Canon" 600's to Standard Price Mitros/Odin!

As for a couple of Hundred dollars being no difference ...... ????? ..Based on the numbers above its a "little" more than that!...regardless ...........but even $200 matters for many....but the choice is personal.
On that same topic the $100 saving using the "Cheap Chinese" YN E3 RT seems to be warranted in your eyes...its a bit more than a "dumb trigger or a manual flash"

And your statement...... "and your depreciation is practically zero."... I don't understand it? Why is it practically zero?....because you bought under the market and therefore think you have some sort of arbitrage position when you sell the kit?.......good luck with that!

My post was not a recommendation to anyone... nor did it attempt to assert anything other than what "I would do" given MY thinking and my existing kit.

In your view that makes me insane.... you are entitled to your opinion my friend...I don't contend that I understand the logic of that opinion, but you are entitled to it!

Well, now that the G7X is out, effectively replacing the S1XX series, is there any hints of a G5X sister model?
I am thinking G7X with viewfinder?
Something like a G16 body, sensor and lens from G7X, but with a hybrid viewfinder like the Fuji X20. Add a fixed touch screen and eye sensor to shut it off when using the viewfinder. Keep WiFi and G16 handling. Now that would be a great camera.

No 80D until 2016. It will have the new 20.2 sensor and the new DPAF in the 7D mk II, wifi, gps, articulated touchscreen, perhaps 8 fps, AF system lower than the 7D, and will probably inheret the same video quality as the 5D mk III and 7D mk II with 60p, clean HDMI out, headphone jack, etc.

I predict it will be a ligher/plastickier version of the 7D mk II, that's a little slower in frame rate and AF, but has wifi and touchscreen, for 1100-1200$. Just like the 60D was to the 7D. It's how the line-up is designed. Before that, we will will get a 750D with the same 20.2mp sensor, articulating touchscreen, 5/6 fps, DPAF and 5D mk III and 7D mk II video quality with 60p but without the headphone jack. Also a little slower/plastickier version of the 80D for a lower price. I don't expect ground breaking news from Canon APS-C line before 2018 or so, the 7D mk II features will just trickle down the line up (which is good). If there's new technology coming from Canon it will be in the 5D/1D update or in the 7D mk III, not in a lower-end model.

These are my speculations based in pure speculations, not information.

Marsu42 said:

jonathan7007 said:

Check out Joe Demb's long-time entries into this world of on-speedlight tools. Well-made attachment bands, good QC from my experience. Accessible business owner.

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+1 for the Demb products, I'm using his flash bracket and bounce cards, great stuff at a reasonable price - and great service. Here's one example of an innovator being successful w/o selling snake oil.

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The Joe Demb stuff works for me too. Deceptively clever, simple, well made and honest.
Having tried just about everything in the on-speedlight universe, I just keep coming home to Joe.
But for a natural look, the number one preference will always be a low white ceiling.

-pw

Sony is working on an visbly faster AF system to be mounted on the A7 series successors. Heared that there will be an very significant update in the beginning of 2015.
There are some AF systems in testing, I heared of an combination of an area of very fast AF points (field area like 7D coverage) and an not so fast, but nearly fully covering AF area.

I would be glad, if Canon will be willed to produce an up to date mirrorless Camera.
I know, many of you like the big SLRs. But the majority of persons likes an light and small, but very capable camera (optimally:, integrated in their handy). As listened on Photokina, the MLs camera market will be one of the most important in the next years.

I've posted some samples of RX100:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=22571.15

Rienzphotoz said:

Like others have mentioned, every system has its strengths and limitations ... the trickiest part is to know how to get around the weaknesses and use the strengths to their full potential ...

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Figuring out how to get around those weaknesses is the part that starts to get the most troublesome after a while. This is especially true when you have multiple systems to choose from which offer very different shooting experiences.

Taken by themselves, I could imagine that my Fuji or Sony rig would be just fine. But when used in conjunction with my Canon rig and my sometimes borrowed Nikon rig, I realize how much having to "get around" weaknesses truly bothers me.

This was a key point to bring to light regarding work arounds. While I do not mind thinking about and planning for getting around obstacles with shooting a certain rig, using the Canon rig after all is said and done reminds me of how it feels to shoot (for all intents and purposes) in a hassle free fashion. I am not preplanning for how I am going to get something done and how to deal with the compromises of the rig I'm holding. I am simply just......shooting.

It all goes back to what it is I can accomplish with any given system. When you latch onto specific strengths and ignore weaknesses is when you get into the trap of seeing the greener grass on the other side. GAS, unfortunately grabs ahold of you during this period. I have now gone through the a7r, xe-2, xt-1, and a slew of adapters, work-arounds, etc.

If I have a rig out with me, I don't want to have to think to myself "oh sh*t, wish I had the other rig." And that is where the Canon (for me) comes in. It is the only kit I have currently that allows me to feel confident in that I can shoot absolutely any scenario that I come across. I may not have the most dynamic range/resolution, it may not be the smallest/lightest, but I never have to worry about solving the problem of how to get a shot because my rig makes it difficult to do so.

The other issue I have with this is that often times, I will go ahead and work around the issues of the rig I'm using. But then upon review of the images, I realize that the end product isn't really much, if any improvement at all over my Canon kit which then makes me feel as though it was all done in vain.

There will always be the guys that only shoot this, or that, and don't concern themselves with other things. For me, I chase my kids around, landscape/travel, events on occasion, portraiture, macro - food and product, and possibly some other things I have forgotten at the moment. The Sony and the Fuji can get a lot of that done. But neither one handles all of it very easily. The rig that has consistently allowed me to get the most usable/keeper shots in general? Still the Canon.

I have two 5DMkIIIs and I am keeping them. I am not interested in 7DMKII ... a lot!

By a lot I mean that for some specific (non-action) shots I am FL limited. But even for that shots I need best possible IQ. So it is a draw!

For now I'll stick to these since it is much easier to have exactly the same bodies.

For that price it would have been really be a shame for Canon !
Can't wait to see the MTFs and sample images as well !!

Lloyd said:

I use the EdMika adaptor on a FD 800mm lens with my 5Diii and my 60D and I am very happy with the results. I have had better luck on the full frame 5Diii, but this may be due to having more experience with the lens by the time I bought the 5Diii

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Your shots are great

LetTheRightLensIn said:

Then again, having just looked at the rumor starter's personal website for the first time....
suddenly I now rank this a CR -10000000000.

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Yeah, saw that as well. :-\

privatebydesign said:

Viggo said:

Are you sure the pre-flash is disabled in M mode? When I have used speedlites with for example the Quadra, there's an option to ignore a certain number of pre flashes to make the speedlite and the Quadra sync properly. I had loads of tries where the flash would trigger the Quadra too soon, and had to find the number of preflashes so they wouldn't trigger the quadra, and the speedlite was never in ETTL, nor was it triggered by the ST-E3, but the Elinchrom Skyports.

Correct me if I'm wrong

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I am 100% certain that one on camera, or ETTL cord mounted, flash not set as a Master via flash menu or body menu does not emit a pre-flash. Any Canon flash used remotely set to M, not as a Master or Slave, just in M and triggered via third party triggers will not emit a pre-flash.

If your flash or body is set to have the on camera (or cord) flash act as a controller then it will emit a series of pre-flashes even in M.

I use PCB Einsteins with a 600EX-RT setup, I often use the 90EX as a dumb optical trigger for the Einsteins with it set to M and lowest power, there is no pre-flash, this is easily demonstrated by putting it in second curtain sync and a long exposure.

If I set the 600's to optical triggering, or even ETTL with the Radio, then I will get pre-flashes, if they are all set to M mode in Radio there are no pre-flashes.

In a mixed manufacturer flash setup RT and M still has no pre-flash.
On camera as a regular flash in M has no pre-flash.

In optical triggering mode Canon triggering always has a pre-flash, even in flash M mode, if your on camera or ETTL corded flash or body is set to controller mode it will pre-flash.

Lots of combinations but you can work with remote Canon flashes and not have pre-flashes.

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Okay, thanks Have no idea what was up with my Quadra/speedlite system if it wasn't preflash. But they're both long gone so who cares ;D

So with the telephoto the kids looked larger but so did the Elk so it gives the illusion that they are closer together. I guess I wasn't paying attention to the distance to the kids...just the buck

jhpeterson said:

The only drawback with this older lens is that Canon stopped servicing this one some years back. Should you need parts and repairs, you're probably out of luck unless you can find some independent shop willing to take on the task. But, if that's a risk you're willing to take (in the past ten years, I had to replace the mount, as I had used the lens so much), if you can get one of these at a (relatively) bargain rate, don't hesitate.

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I have a 300 2.8 non-IS and had to have it repaired (malfunctioning diaphragm). There are shops that can do it, if parts are available. The biggest concern would be if the AF motor goes, since that part is difficult to find but most other parts seem to be fairly available.

For what you want to do, OP, the IS may be important though. I use my 300 for birds/wildlife so I use high shutter speeds generally and its great. But if you are doing motorsports or something similar with low shutter speeds like you mentioned, the IS will be missed for handheld shots. The original EF 300 2.8 is something like 6lbs and can be tough to keep steady. I handhold it all the time, but again, high shutter speeds make that a lot easier. Monopod or gimbal head tripod setup might be necessary if you go for the non IS.

dilbert said:

neuroanatomist said:

dilbert said:

neuroanatomist said:

Assuming that analogy is not too complex for you, are you suggesting that there's no difference in file size or data content between a 12-bit and a 14-bit RAW file?

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Given that file size is generally proportional to megapixels, I don't see how that helps.

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So you are suggesting that there's no difference in file size between a 12-bit and a 14-bit RAW file.

I haven't seen Samsung specs, but Nikon allows a choice between 12- and 14-bit, and the lower bit depth allows a deeper buffer in terms of number of shots.

Nikon D810 uncompressed RAW, 12-bit: 55.9 MB
Nikon D810 uncompressed RAW, 14-bit: 73.2 MB

That's a file size increase of ~30% going from 12- to 14-bit.

You really should stop trying to argue technical details, you succeed only in making yourself appear inept.

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The size of the file will be largely dependent on how the data is stored. It is entirely possible that a 12bit file from Samsung's NX-1 will be the same size as a 14bit file - it all comes down to how the data is stored internally within the raw file. For Nikon's NEF files, obviously they store the data differently in the two situations (and if you look at the documentation for NEF on the 'net then it is at least obvious that there are markers for this.) Until there's documentation on what Samsung does, all that you can do is speculate and create FUD about 3rd parties, nothing more as just because Nikon does something doesn't mean there's any guarantee that Samsung does too.

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It's not impossible that Samsung is doing higher bit depth processing in their post-ADC pipeline, or saving the data to memory as 14-bit data. Sony BionzX does that...the sensor readout is 14-bit, the processing pipeline is 16-bit, however then, sadly, they save the data to their memory card with lossy compression. They still gain from the higher bit depth processing, but it still would be better if they stored full raw pixels, instead of compressed information.

Given that Samsung explicitly calls out 12-bit data for high speed shooting, I think it's safe to say they are storing the information in 12-bit in the data file. Otherwise, they could very well ADC at 12-bit, then use a 16-bit processing pipeline to perform dithering of the information, and save it back out as 14-bit information that was better than 12-bit, but maybe still not quite as good as an original 14-bit read. If they were doing that, I think they would have specified as much.

Yes! but somewhat different than before.

Thank you for your reply!