Don Haines said:

And don't forget wildlife photography.... You can use your iPhone for great bird pictures, like this flock of several hundred Canada geese.....

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brilliant ;D ;D ;D
I have to get ma sel one o' those...... doesn't have auto horizon squarer uper though

DPReview: Nikon D5300 adds pixels, Wi-Fi, and GPS while leaving AA filter behind

http://www.dpreview.com/news/2013/10/17/nikon-d5300-adds-pixels-wi-fi-and-gps-while-leaving-aa-filter-behind?utm_campaign=internal-link&utm_source=news-list&utm_medium=text&ref=title_0_3


A preview @:

http://www.dpreview.com/previews/nikon-d5300/

jm said:

I agree with most of the comments here - whats the point? this is Canon's kit lens for many of their deals and it's pretty good. Even if the Sigma is slightly better, I don't think people will fork out $ for something that many people have or know someone that has.

I think they need to offer something either different or better and this looks like none of those things.

http://www.johnmckayphotography.com/

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+1 ... I think this new Sigma lens will most likely eat into Nikon and Sony sales than Canon (coz Nikon equivalent is too expensive and Sony does not have a similar lens).
BTW, I checked out your website ... great portraits, very beautifully put together.

Holly said:

I live in Chicago. Welcome! ;D

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I'm originally from Chicago. Joined the Navy in '67, Great Lakes NTC


Looks like Ill be in town for Turkey day

waft said:

Hello, everyone! I'm new to this forum! I have a 50/1.8 and the kit lens for my T3i apsc body. i found 50mm is a little narrow inside rooms. so I am considering a prime lens 28-35. Anyone has experience in Canon 35/2 USM (or with IS), new SIGMA 30/1.4 and CZJ flektogon 35/2.4?
I am not bothered focus speed, but never try manual lens before. Although many think CZJ is good, Flektogon price keeps going high, is 250$ worthy? SIGMA has largest aperture, while people always complain about its quality control. For canon 35, it's from canon, original. but nothing attract me particularly. So far, what's all I know.
Hope to hear your suggestion, Thx!!

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My vote goes to the Canon 28mm f/2.8 IS USM. It is far better than the 1.8 28mm in image quality, and 28mm is the ideal normal focal length for 1.6x aps-c as it matches the sensor diagonal. 35mm is a bit long for a normal lens and you already have a 50 so 28mm would give you more noticeable difference.

The 35mm IS USM also is much larger than the 28mm 2.8 IS USM, and while a bit faster at f/2.0 given the lack of distance indoors DOF is going to be deep anyway. While not as small as the 40mm pancake the 28mm IS USM is not far off in size.

sigma has nice specs but I wouldn't trust the build in the long run.

paul13walnut5 said:

The two are not mutually exclusive.

Some video innovations can help stills guys (say when Canon get round to using an electronic HSS rather than the curtain opening up full power HSS) CCD's & CMOS? Where would we be without them? Dual Pixel AF? How good is that potentially?

And some stills stuff helps the video guys, like the STILLS function - live view that made video possible in the first place?

I don't think that a $ spent on video is necessarily a $ less spent on stills.

Nikon & Sony still churn out class leading stills cameras even with video bolted on, so really, I think all those moaning have got it badly wrong.

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Excellent points, and there was an article in a recent issue of "Photo Pro" magazine (USA) which was touting the attributes of shooting 4k video with the 1DC, and using continuous light, rather than strobes...for fashion photography. Definitely makes sense to me...strobes give everybody a headache don't they? Especially if they're firing continuously for hours. Although with this method, there might be quite a few more still frames from the video, to look at...when choosing the best still shots.

Fleetie said:

Why is the 1/4 wave plate there?

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The AA filter blurs the image slightly by passing the light through two layers of a birefringent material (lithium niobate). That birefringent material separates incoming light into two rays, essentially polarizing it. The two layers are oriented orthogonally to one another. The light passes through the first one, but if it went straight into the second one, it would be blocked. That's analogous to a variable ND filter beyond the max setting - crossing two polarizers blocks the light. You also see this phenomenon with polarized sunglasses and some LCD displays, which 'go black' if you tilt your head (this is true for some camera rear LCDs, making them a pain to use with polarized glasses as you can't see anything with the camera in portrait orientation). So, to prevent that for the AA filter, there's a 1/4-wave plate in between the two layers to circularly polarize the light after it passes through the first layer of lithium niobate.

Side note: the D800E actually has the two layers of lithium niobate like an AA filter. However, instead the two layers being oriented orthogonally, they are both oriented to separate light vertically, but in the opposite direction, and there's no 1/4-wave plate. So, the light is split then recombined - basically, a non-functional AA filter. I presume they did that for manufacturing reasons, to keep the layers of filters over the sensor close to the same total thickness and thus maintain alignment with the AF sensor assembly, etc.

regnwaldo said:

There are a number of problems I've encountered.
Video focus tracking is SLOW. OK for family groups moving at walking pace. Useless for birds or pets moving erratically and fast. Yet that is when it is needed.
Live view autofocus is slow. The so-called FAST MODE involves exit from live view, autofocus, then retrun to live view. SLOW INCONVENIENT at the least and USELESS FOR WILD LIFE.

A MAJOR FLAW in image processing of hand-held long tele pics. The out-of-focus background is USUALLY renders as streaking from top right to bottom left with replication of detail. Out of focus detail points should degenerate to rather circular blotches but with my 70D the streaking is more common. ALWAYS TOP RIGHT TO BOTTOM LEFT. I suspect image analysis/modification during image stabilization. This is with 500mm lens and 1/750 shutter speed or faster. With the same lens and even with slower shutter speeds this has never happened in 2 years with my 5D Mk II, or many years with my 300D.

Pity. The first photos I took with the 70D were the sharpest I'd obtained, and turned my 500mm lens into 800mm equivalent. The camera is heading back to Canon.

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I've never seen oof area like this before. I would think it is either your particular camera, or camera shake.

Thanks for the heads up and photo to show it.

Leo

I talked to a friend and she said that she prefers eye level images... so I need to add a step stool and s board so the ferry don't get sick down in the mud/ dirt.

Hi folks.
Available TBA.
Price ????

So not much change except it has reappeared on the site?

Cheers Graham.

Jibz said:

Hey,

The lens is now listed on SIGMA website, It's official : http://www.sigma-global.com/en/lenses/cas/product/art/a_24_105_4/

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Don't like blingblings, but thats just me.
If someone buys them, its ok.

chilledXpress said:

Argghhhh... video in portrait mode !!! The bane of all video.

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Haha, sorry. Didn't really think it mattered since I was recording more for the sound than anything.

Dylan777 said:

Put 35mm sensor in this chassis :

Am I asking too much?

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I'd buy a tiny, retro styled Canon mirrorless that looks like this in a heartbeat. But you've filed in the DSLR section! You want "mirrorless," two doors down.

Where's the EOSM2? Lovely mockup!

Hey all I am looking ay getting CPS gold as Canon Canada does not allow a 7D for platinum requirements.

I want to here from someone with Canada info not US info.

what's included in the kit?
is clean and checks of any amount included in the Canadian program?

thanks all and again please do not post any CPS USA information as they are not the same.

gferdinandsen said:

I am looking into getting a grey market 5D3 off EBay, does anyone know if that would count towards my CPS points?

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To my knowledge, it is not anyhow connected: in CPS you are registering only model and serial number.

Hi guys,
thanks for your responses. I've got a bit of time to go, so I'll wait until closer to the date before purchasing. Interesting abot the Nikon - I'll keep an eye out.

thanks,
Grant

Hi KjetilS
In that case I there is a setting on the 7D (may be different for 70D) that interferes with the flash during that function.
"Wireless flash will not work if the flash mode is set to Multiflash."
If this is not the problem then it sounds like a replacement camera is in order. Has the 70D been out long enough to allow a repair rather than replace?
Please let us all know what the outcome is.

Cheers Graham.

KjetilS said:

This was exactly what I was trying when I noticed the flash was not firing. I was trying to use the speedlight 430 as a remote flash. But the internal flash has to fire to sync the remote flash.

Valvebounce said:

Hi KjetilS
Is the camera capable of driving the remote flash via radio ( the latest flash is radio controlled isn't it?) if so is this enabled in a menu somewhere overriding the onboard flash? Or is master flash for optical trigger enabled, this will flash but not light the shot as it is done via preflashes.

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Kernuak said:

The question is, how much DR do you need? To say IQ is reduced is pulling at hairs I thiink. While I don't have a 1DX, I have used ISO 50 on both the 5D MkII and MkIII (mostly for water or some other motion requirements) and haven't had issues with insufficient DR, any more than I have at ISO 100. Yes graphs show that there is less DR, but looking at graphs and actually testing are two different things, The best way to find out whether it's suitable for your needs is to try it out.

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Yes.

The extra cost of the kit with lens is $600. if you can find it sold separately for less, grab it.
Big Value sells a split kit for $720 for the lens and 1769 for the body, total = $2489.

Adorama sells a USA model with Canon warranty for $2499 plus a 4% store reward ($100) which will buy a nice memory card, or a spare Canon battery and have enough left over to get a nice memory card for half price.
If you wait for a one day special deal, you might save $100 on ebay and break even with the Adorama deal, its pot luck.

I'd certainly keep it, they make high end gear.

The 40mm STM is excellent and doesn't cost much. Its a very small lens.

Drizzt321 said:

mb66energy said:

Eldar said:

Considering how much money we plow into these bodies, this could be a way to protect that investment. New sensors, speciality sensors, crop vs. FF etc. with firmware upgrades for improved processing etc., could let bodies live longer than the current "too few" years. But I guess you would need to upgrade your processing power as well, so I wonder how realistic it would be.

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That's true - especially the money for (good) bodies. And we invest time to learn how to operate (master?) such a camera. Exchangeable sensors would help me to use the sturdy and reliable 40D body with a video capable sensor.

In my opinion you are right with your remark about processing power: A new processor is a must for new sensors and the CPU cost is a minimal factor. Additionally the ADC design is connected to the sensor technology and must be on a "sensor-processor"-board.

I am happy that I use a 600D instead of a 7D which provides similar IQ - I do NOT shoot sports or other action so the speed of the 7D isn't necessary for me.

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Actually, a lot of the video is needing a more capable CPU & firmware, not the sensor. Although I'm sure there's a bit that can help out with that.

Something to think about for anything that's interchangeable...is the physical interface. Can you make a physical interface that has the tolerances, especially for changing a sensor, that also can provide something robust, with enough features so that you don't need to change it every generation, _and_ is small enough so that you don't get too big a camera. Just look at MF, even digital. There's a separate 'back' which is really the entire sensor & CPU & firmware along with memory card slots & external ports. As big as most small APS-C DSLR bodies. Sure, it's a much bigger chip, so you could compact some of that downwards, but it's still pretty bulky and not so easy to handle.

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I have opened a 40D's back after it was fallen down from 1.8 m onto solid rock (with a holster bag) and it seemed dead (finally it was the broken battery compartment door which hasn't closed the interlock switch anymore): The camera is basically empty or better well tidied up. I think it would be a no brainer to make sensor/ADC/cpu units exchangeable.

About tolerances: Old style manual focus cameras had exchangeable screens and viewfinders like the F1n. I think precision was crucial because gaining good focus adjustment relied on the screen. A similar mechanics/mechanism should be well suited for sensors. Or think about the film "management" ...

dr croubie said:

http://edition.cnn.com/interactive/2013/10/world/how-to-be-a-photographer/index.html?hpt=hp_c4

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Hah pretty spot on, although I think he is misguided on the last one and he sounded like someone being cliched and doing a bad job about writing about how to be a bad amateur photographer more than actually pulling that one off well.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Sith Zombie said:

The D7100 sounds like the way to go, it'd be a great wildlife set up with that lens. Or you could temporally move to Nikon rumours and await news of the D400 ;D

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The person I bought the D300s from said his D7100 was not suitable for wildlife and was poor at tracking. He has several Nikon bodies and uses his D800 which is good at tracking. Do you use a D7100 to track BIF?

I seriously doubt if we will see a D400 soon, and certainly not for what I paid for the D300S, which I think was a very good price.

I'll probably sell the 200-400 eventually, but I do buy lenses locally on craigslist when the price is right, then play with them a while and keep the best ones if I find myself using them. I have a old Nikon Film body (several actually), but none of them was really suitable for a really nice lens.
I'll keep the D300s and use it as a 2nd camera to my 5D MK III. I might then sell my old 40D.

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I'v used it for an event, and thought it was pretty snappy, good accuracy too. Didn't use it for BIF though and I guess thats the ultimate test for an af system. Congrats on the D300s tho, looks like a great camera!

Hannes said:

Are the lenses canon or another brand? If they are sigma for example you may find it easier sending the combo to sigma but if all images are unsharp with +20 afma I would suspect the body

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You can't register non Canon lenses at CPS.