thank you for your input!!!! i appreciate it!!!!

Chien, enjoy the trip & thanks for the kind words!

I got the underwater case for an old point and shoot of mine and I'm very happy with it. If you are familiar with the controls of your s100, it should be fairly easy to operate. You can leave the case on at the beach out of the water and not worry about sand either. The raw capability will be helpful as well.

It's been a while since i broke out my 70-200 so any feedback will be great & thanks in advance!

http://www.emcphotography.co/Sports/Pond-Hockey-Congers-Lake-NY/i-tVDSJ6p

Hi Peter,
Some great images, the descriptive titles gave me a laugh, thanks, really like the puppet one, her look seems to back up your theory! ;D

Cheers Graham.

Im trying to talk myself out. That I dont need the X100S. This video does not help. ;D

East Wind Photography said:

Yes the in camera optimizations apply only to jpg and what you see on the screen. Does not manipulate raw images.

Click to expand...

The in-camera optimizations for the EOS M are applied to RAW images, but you can undo them in DPP, whereas you can't if you shoot jpg. Is it different for the 5DIII?

mrsfotografie said:

jdramirez said:

I'm going nuts. I can't wait for the new Sigma 50mm to come out and I wind up buying a 135L for around $650...

So now I don't know what I'm going to do... maybe sell my 85mm f/1.8... maybe just wait 2 years until the 50mm art is at a price I'm willing to jump in at so I'll have both the 85 and the 135L for my low light shots... maybe I'm just nuts and I need to find a different hobby.

It's like I'm the GM of a football team... but I don't have any clear direction. I assemble a great team... that can do it all... but all too often, my great players sit the bench...

That's not true... the mkiii and the 70-200 get a ton of work... but still... I need to sleep on it.

Click to expand...

I for the life of me can't follow why you got rid of the 100L macro... helped by the 5D3 even in low light it can do the job of the 85, 135 and does macro too unless you want extreme shallow DOF.

In the mean time I can recommend the Sigma 50 mm F/1.4 DG EX HSM ;D

Click to expand...

It was a mistake... but I bought it again... I haven't fixed my signature... but I did acknowledge that I missed the macro too damn much.

I don't understand how some people call the recent mirrorless Fuji cameras the "new Leica".
I mean all they did as a redesign was to release the x100s in black. Now look at the Hermès.

slclick said:

what is this thing called an 'extra' lens?

Click to expand...

I have no idea ... never heard of such a concept ;D

JonB8305 said:

J.R. said:

neuroanatomist said:

J.R. said:

BTW Neuro, why does LV silent shooting results in the lights not firing?

Click to expand...

In live view mirror is up and the shutter is open, so an electronic first curtain is used. I believe live view silent shooting complicates the timing of the shutter with the flash, but I'm not positive. My speculation aside, the manual does state that a non-Canon flash will not fire if live view silent shooting is set to Mode 1 or Mode 2 (p.189 of the 5D3 manual). It is set to Mode 1 by default.

Click to expand...

Thanks a ton for this.

Click to expand...

did it work?

Click to expand...

Was traveling ... Will try tomorrow and revert. Thanks

wsheldon said:

dgatwood said:

wsheldon said:

Note that it will take 20+ seconds to transfer each RAW file, so I find the option to shoot RAW+JPEG fine (which stores both on the SD) and only transmit JPEG over wireless to the laptop works best. Just a second or two delay and they show up. Good enough for real-time client preview.

Click to expand...

Seriously? 20 seconds to transfer a 25 MB file? That's barely 802.11b speeds. They ought to just about get that speed at close distances even with the Wi-Fi antenna unplugged.... I wonder if either Canon or the cell phone vendors are using some ancient, crufty firmware for their chipset that doesn't support 802.11g or 802.11n speeds in Ad-Hoc mode.

Click to expand...

To clarify, that's for Wifi tethered shooting vis EOS utility to LR on a laptop, so the 20 sec includes data transfer + LR's service noticing and importing the file + rendering a quick preview image for display. I believe the 6D does 802.11b/g/n, but the laptop only supported g IIRC so n may 2x faster.

I still think RAW+JPEG with JPEG transmitted is the way to go for best results, though.

Click to expand...

Ah. A lot of 802.11g chipsets won't do more than b speeds when talking to an ad hoc (IBSS) station, so if you aren't connecting to a shared base station, much of that may be your laptop's fault.

Rienzphotoz said:

I like the Tower of London image very much.

Click to expand...

thank you

Rienzphotoz said:

The second and the last image are very unique ... nice composition.

Click to expand...

thank you

very sorry to hear that, wade.

good luck

Viggo said:

BL said:

the DOF is only apparent on fast primes. So for my 1.2 and 1.4 lenses, it makes an enormous difference.

At 2.8, I don't notice any difference in visible DOF between stock and high precision screens, so I'm not surprised it wasn't nearly as effective on the 17 TSE.

Click to expand...

You forget you can get supershallow dof with the TS-E, although dark VF, to see the focal plane when tilted max upwards and rotated was awesome.

Click to expand...

ah, yes, i stand corrected!

privatebydesign said:

Steven,

You are making far more work out of this than it is.

First, you cannot use ETTL, it just is not what ETTL is designed for. Second, taking just the small highlighted section illuminated by the hand held 600 has masses of exposure latitude because of the way you can adjust the exposure and then blend it. That is why nobody I know brackets the in hand flash, just know that you get the rough exposure you want of anything at a certain distance; I know f8 and 10 feet @ half power gives me a second story burst, at 20 feet it is a ground floor burst.

Myself, and everybody who I know that does this, just uses manual flash mode and pops away, if you don't have the remote viewing capability just keep varying your flash to subject distance, zoom setting, and angles.

But, because this question has been bugging me and you clearly don't want to go the ND filter gel route I have come up with a work around using just the 600's.

First, put the on camera unit (ST-E3-RT or 600-EX-RT) in Group mode, second, set each group to M and a different setting such that you would want to bracket, third, set the in hand flash to Group A, take the shot with the REL option. Then change the in hand flash to the next Group B, take a shot, then change the in hand flash to the next Group C, take the shot etc etc. This will give you five different exposures from the in hand flash.

Click to expand...

This a pure genius solution. It's so simple!

Fantastic shot!!! Really nice!

Re: EOS 5D Mark III & Third Party Batteries

Marsu42 said:

Random Orbits said:

Except for the time that the lenses are bricked while Sigma creates the updated firmware.

Click to expand...

You should apply to Canon as an independent fud agent

I understand the necessity of pro shooting are different than for the rest of us, but 3rd party items don't just brick by looking at them, but only after camera fw updates. But *esp* as a pro you don't just update your fw on first day of the release and just before a shooting. You will evaluate what the changes are, and if necessary wait some, for example until 3rd party vendors updating their fw.

Click to expand...

Yeah, because people love losing functionality of their gear... not so much. In my industry it takes months to release new software because of safety and certification issues. Consumer electronics is different but it will still take time to reverse engineer and test the changes. And it doesn't have to come with a fw update; it could come with a new camera release. Of course, they never list incompatibility with extant 3rd party gear as features of a new camera. :

I've had a chance to use the 5D3 with the new S screen for a while now. I dont have a direct comparison or measurement on metering loss but I would have to say it's over by about 2/3 to 1 stop. For me this is not much of a problem as I generally expose to the right anyway. Where it gets tricky is when you are using strobes or have strong highlights...though knowing this you can just dial down a few clicks in those situations. I find I expose more to the right than rely on just metering alone so again this doesn't bother me personally.

The viewfinder is definitely and noticeably darker. If you had trouble seeing in low light before, then you may want to consider this before you purchase a replacement screen...at least the S screen.

The kit also came with shims to help align the screen with the focus point. However I did not need to use them. Manual AF came out exactly where it should be.

The screen replacement has made all of the difference when using my macro and thin DOF lenses like the 85 1.2 or 24 1.4. They dont recommend using this screen with lenses slower than F2.8. However even with the darker viewfinder, I was able to easily focus my 600 F4 manually whereas trying to do that with the factory screen was hit and miss. It is clearly easier to set focus than before.

As I mentioned before, the process was pretty quick and painless. A couple of things to note is to use a slightly magnetized screwdriver to trap the two screws, and to insert and remove the screws with the mirror pointing down at the table or work area. These two items will greatly reduce the risk of losing a screw inside of the camera.

Only one non-L, and a bit surprised that they have two 200/1.8 (not that they are not great!)

http://petapixel.com/2014/02/06/getty-images-sports-photographer-robert-cianflone-reporting-sochi/

I sometimes get to use my wifes Sigma 18-35 F1.8 and it is an absolute pleasure andI am saving to replace the Sigma 10-20 f3.5 that was stolen.
Otherwise I am happy with the 40mm pancake STM and have good results with the 70-200 f4IS for selecting interesting landscapes at a distance

wsheldon said:

Very nice setup. I've been following these threads as well, and decided to pull the trigger on a TVC-34L + TA-3-LB-HK leveling base to upgrade my 2-series Gitzo. Just got it yesterday - what a difference in stability! I'm 6'2" so it's also great to finally have a tripod I can use to shoot up with and lower one leg on uneven ground without having to crouch.

I decided to keep my Markins Q10 with screw clamp for now rather than spring for the BH-55, since I have a mix of plates and really like the smoothness and lower weight of the Q10 for the same or higher load rating as the BH-55. I can see trying one eventually, though, given the tremendous quality of the rest of the equipment.

Enjoy! (I know I will)

Click to expand...

Definitely try the BH-55 before you buy. I seriously doubt there is a better head on the planet than the Q10. I've never used the BH-55 head, but I do own a BH-40 that I picked up for my macro rig, as the one and only downside to the Markin's heads is they have a relatively weak panning lock. I can tell you that my Markins Q3 (half as strong as my Q10) absolutely blows the BH-40 away in both smoothness and strength (panning lock aside). So I don't know how much better the 55 is than the 40, but definitely try it first. No offense to all of you RRS fanatics 8).

gbchriste said:

yorgasor said:

What?! You had icicles!? I've never seen them in NC, and now I'm in Utah this week I'm missing them!

I tried to get some photos of the ducks on a frozen Yates Mill Pond a couple weeks ago. I was up early, got all my gear together, walked out to the bridge and tried to take a picture. No CF card. GAH! I've done that so many times! Of course, I didn't have time to go home again to get the CF card. *sigh*

But I'm sure my photo would've been almost as good as yours

Click to expand...

I keep a 32GB SD card in the second slot of my 5DIII. It never comes out of the camera. It is my backup. My normal setup is shooting RAW on 8GB CF cards in Slot 1, and large JPGs to the 32GB SD is slot 2. That way I can fill up many, many 8GB RAW cards and still have room to spare on the backup SD card. While the JPGs aren't as forgiving in post processing, they are intended to be my safety valve incase something goes wrong.

I intentionally leave the SD card in the camera at all times. In my normal workflow, the images get offloaded from the CF cards on to my PC and external backup drives. Then the next time I go out and shoot, I just reformat and start over.

Having this second card has saved my bacon a couple of times. Once I went out with only one CF card because I didn't expect t shoot that much. But I hung around longer that planned and filled up the CF card before what was one of the best sunsets of the year. In that case, I just pulled the full CF card out and switched the SD card over to capture RAW. I've also forgotten to load up a CF card once or twice and having that SD card ever present save the day.

The only time the SD card comes out is if there is something on it I need that I don't have on a CF card, then it goes right back in the camera.

Click to expand...

That's a great idea. I'm not too interested in getting jpg shots too, but I can totally see the benefits of keeping a spare in that SD slot.

Just posted on their website.