Maybe the IQ would be unusable

cayenne said:

Did you use any type of 'flat profile' setting on your camera for shooting this?

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Yes I reduced saturation in camera a little bit and reduced sharpness in cam to zero and added that in post.

From your other thread:

Sorry, but you're worrying over nothing. Put the filter on the lens, the hood will fit just fine.

FWIW, for both the XS-Pro and F-Pro mounts, in all the sizes I have (58mm, 67mm, 72mm, 77mm, and 82mm), the outer diameter of the filter is the same as the outer diameter of the same-sized lens cap. If the hood fits over the lens cap (it always does), it fits over the filter.

Canon-F1 said:

sick_666 said:

kobeson said:

Any purchases or reviews yet??

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http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-24-70mm-f-4-L-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx

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that is no review... not yet.

it´s a preview.

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True but you do seem to be able to compare target shots, looking forward to the full review though

I use fast glass, shoot in raw, over expose slightly, then pull back in post.

Below is the best single summary to date

TheSuede said:

In the end, from a factual PoV:

• HTP does not in any case UNLESS the one-off case where the starting point is ISO100 lower absolute photometric exposure. At set ISOs 200-800 it does however increase the electronic noise pollution in the finished image somewhat in Canon cameras.
• Exposure is exposure is exposure, and exposure sets the photon noise level in the image. It's set by the scene light emittance modulated by shutter speed and lens T-stop (aperture + losses), and actually also for all practical considerations: QE of the sensor. Not by ISO - though the ISO setting can change aperture and/or shutter speed when the camera is in auto- mode (anything but "M" mode), it's a secondary effect. ISO changes setting, setting changes exposure.
• ISO in digital cameras is a translating factor between exposure (exposure x QE = cell charge) and raw file ADU value.
• The amount of headroom available in a camera can NEVER be higher than when the camera is used on base ISO (ISO100 in the case discussed here) - Since the highest DR is always at base ISO, unless the construction is seriously flawed (actually totally botched!). This means that ISO200 + HTP has the same 'potential' headroom, since the actual physical amplification is set at ISO100, not 200
• ISO50 (or more generally "lower than actual base ISO") settings are useless for raw shooters, but may be of some use for jpg shooters.

Feel free to add constructive criticism, or point out any error(s). But be very ashamed if this post is considered OT and erased.

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Ditto on black gaffers tape. I use it for several unorthodox things. I have thin ~3/8" strips of black gaffers tape around all my L lenses to protect/hide the red ring area from thieves and scuffs. I use it over some of the lens slide switches when they rub my leg as I carry them hanging to the side and they get switched without my knowledge. I use it to protect other parts of the camera. I use it to hide the Mark III logo on my 5D3. I use it to hide the Tamron logo on all my lens caps. I use it to provide rubbery grip areas on my S95.

jdramirez said:

michi said:

How would you feel about finding a good deal on a used 5DII and still get the 24-70 II ? It's still over your budget, but not too much. That would be a great compromise, and you could later upgrade the camera if you cared to. Pictures should be tack sharp, image quality should be close to a 6D...

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You can find the d5 mkii for around $1400 or so... maybe 1300... So it would be around $700 from getting both. I like the idea... I was looking at the mkii for a while and I think it is very comparable to the 6D. It's not a good option for me because of the focusing issues, but it seems like a good suggestion.

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I have a 5DII. I really don't know what focusing issues people talk about. Sure, it's not as good as some brand new cameras, but it has never let me down.

Croubie, you created a masterpiece of industrial design. The new 40mm funnel lens. Make sure you add it to your gear pics

J.R. said:

Rienzphotoz said:

You are welcome ... don't know which part of the middle east you plan to move to but make sure to bring your camera and lenses ... coz life here is pretty dry in terms of entertainment, socializing etc if you are an expat and you really do need a hobby to keep you occupied during your free time, especially between April - October (it is hot as hell goes up to 55 degrees celsius) ... but it is a good place to save money ... no income tax and deductions etc

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Thanks for the info. It would be Doha or Dubai (not sure at the moment). I'll surely be bringing my gear along ... Can't live without it (As my friend says my blood group is "P+")

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Good ... if you move to Doha, let me know ... I've been here for 6 years, I can tell you all the good locations for photo opportunities ... it's a tiny country, you can criss cross the whole country in half a day. Good luck.

It's too hard to pick a favorite, normally i'd say the 85L II, but I've gotten alot of great pics with my Zeiss 50mm f/2 Makro recently. I gave up my 50L (which was my favorite for a long time) for it, no regrets.

Hi, I home based business in Canada and recently my home insurance pulled the plug on my home business add-on. I have clients in the states and apparently is too much liability and now because of that denial other insurance companies wont insure my business as an add-on to my home policy. This is pretty ridiculous, in the 14 years I have been operating, never had a claim.

Anyway, need to get insurance. I do travel outside north america for photography and video work so whatever plan i get needs to cover that travel. I did find one company that would do it but is $5000 a year which just seems crazy.

Does anyone have a recommendation?

Exactly. Focal length is an intrinsic property of the lens, independent of whatever sensor is behind that lens. If a manufacturer were to label a lens with a 'crop factor adjusted' focal length of some sort, that would be a lie.

http://www.tamron.eu/en/lenses/focal-length-comparison.html

This one is small but different than the canon one you can use like "any" focal length.

:-X What the?

My eyes just exploded.

Peace! 8)

needless to say, this is straight out of the camera, and no pp (except for cropping).

I have an Einstein, a White Lightning 1600, AB800 and ABR800. I have a lot of PCB modifiers; 5 different PLMs, Beauty Dish, barn doors, grids and the 56 Moon Unit.

The only complaint I have of any of them is the ABR800. While most ring lights are awkward, this one seems like the designer went out of there way to make it THE most awkward. It is also too deep to use my 50L with comfortably. But I think the quality of light that comes from it at the price point makes it quite worth the awkwardness.

I plan to add another Einstein to my kit soon possibly to replace the AB800. I like the AB800 for its weight but the Einsteins low 2.5 ws is very valuable to me.

RLPhoto said:

Rienzphotoz said:

RLPhoto said:

A Sniff test should be sufficient. :|

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Not allowed! Jared Polin (Fro knows foto) has a patent on that move ;D

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The generic off-brand smell test should be an equal alternative. :

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Ha ha ha ... good one.

privatebydesign said:

Taking the earlier comment about my grad filter darkening the tree, I gave myself 60 seconds to do a better edit, this version has not touched the tree's luminance, colour, or hue to a level you can notice, but has given an even darkening of the sky.

If your images are not worth 60 seconds in post then I can't help.

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how did you do that in 60 seconds?

only apply the gradient to the blue channel?

the lens target guys will give you a more technical answer, but none that you'd notice

bseitz234 said:

I'm really interested by the colors in the second picture- the background lightning seems to be casting a red glow, while the foreground is much more violet. Anybody have any idea why this is / the physics behind it? Definitely an awesome shot, it's too bad we don't have lightning in the northeast US at this time of year or I'd be inspired to take my camera out in a storm...

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Just to let you know, to the right of the picture there is a big advertising tv screen on the side of a building, so the colour cast is probably coming from there

Thank you JR, I had found the video but not the other info. I have experimented a big more and found that people show less transparent in the "Dark" setting with a bit more light.

Thanks to all for your feedback

Yes you can. You need to find shops that still have stock.

I have 3: 24-105, 70-200 2.8, 100-400. So far so good.

More DR and less noise sounds nice, thanks for explaining it to me. Would it be a big difference? 1/2 stop sensitivity sounds not much to me. Will i even notice it in my photos ?