Both lenses are amazing lenses. Study both here.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=173736&page=615
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=142974&page=347

Since you say wedding photography I would have to agree with the gentleman above me, simply because of the obligatory toast + dance which is more often than not taking place in a low-light environment. If you are really good with/shooting everything with a flash then the 2.8 here will not likely matter as much but I've gotten nicer shots in these settings with higher ISO and the natural lighting of the event than with the use of a flash, but I will readily admit that at this current moment my flash photography skills are absolutely horrendous and unless it's done by an expert, I always prefer the natural light of the scene + post production editing.

phemark said:

any ideas are welcome

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Save up a bit while waiting for a slight price drop, then get the 5D mk2. I'm guessing you're doing landscape/architecture/portrait stuff because you're not too fussed about autofocus. The 5D mk2 will be much better in noise performance, giving cleaner images.

Compare the expected re-sale loss for the 5D mk2 body versus the expected re-sale loss of the 650D + crop lens. Add the difference in loss up to the appropriate body cost. Then, compare their costs. An advantage to the full-frame camera is that you won't have to re-sell the lenses you get for it. If you get the 5D mk2 at some discount (or used), you probably won't suffer too big a loss there.

Page 32 of the 5DMkIII manual (small print at the bottom of the page):

"Although the camera does not comply with the UHS speed class standard, UHS SDHC/SDXC cards can be used"

Squarebox, we do have a Luxury Car Tax in Oz, for cars costing more than $57,466.
The tax is calculated at 33% of the pre-tax price for the value above $57,466, so this only goes a small way in trying to work out why luxury cars cost so much here.
So if you buy a car worth say $100K, you pay 33% Luxury tax on A$42,534 or $14,036.22 extra, but we don't have a gas guzzler tax like you do in the US, hence the poularity here for large 6's and V8's.
Mind you, cars like the Corollas etc., are similarly priced here compared to the US, so it's not all bad.

If buying something for business use, we get the GST back, and we also get a depreciation allowance on our company tax, but if the item is a computer or something valued at under A$1,000, we can get a 100% depreciation allowance on it in the first year.

Fleetie said:

Jettatore said:

How does the mode-dial lock work? Click it to lock it, and then click it again to leave it unlocked? or Hold it down and turn the dial then release... I really hope it's the first one, because I have no problems with the regular mode dials of old and like to flip through my custom modes very quickly....

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No, you have to keep pressing it to keep turning it.

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Ah, yuckkk... Well, they offered a mode lock/dial for 7D/5D owners if you sent it in for the upgrade (something like that) so maybe they will have an option to get this one without that lock. Obviously not a deal breaker and something to get used to but that works against my existing shooting style and I have never once accidentally knocked that dial in the wrong spot. I usually set up C1, C2, C3 and Manual before an indoor event starts with a few variations between the 4 setups and have learned to quickly over-write any slot mid-event as needed (for this reason I wish they would actually put the "B" bulb dial on the bottom before or after CA. I switch between these four, learning to count by feel and skipping the "B" switch when needed -to do this without looking I just go all the way to the end where the dial stops and then count to the switch I want and try to arrange each custom mode in a way that makes sense/is easy to remember. I do this fast while I'm looking for my next shot. I can already tell that lock is going to get in my way. Maybe a way to custom mod it but I'm not hacking up gear that is that expensive... hopes for mail in mod option. (fingers crossed) altogether not really a big deal

Anyways, thank you for the details.

brandonm said:

Have you tried this?

New Camera Support in the Camera Raw 6.7 Release Candidate
Canon EOS 1D X
Canon EOS 5D Mk III

http://blogs.adobe.com/lightroomjournal/2012/03/adobe-camera-raw-6-7-and-dng-converter-6-7-available-on-adobe-labs.html

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well i did, now PS CS5 works, LR4, still no luck.....

Zeiss 15/2.8 Distagon Q&A with H.H.Nasse
http://diglloyd.com/articles/ZeissZ/ZeissZ-15Distagon-NasseInterview.html

as of right now it shows in stock... just got notification from them

http://www.onecall.com/product/Canon/EOS-5D-Mark-III-Body-Only/Digital-SLR/_/R-115394

I purchased a couple of bodies from them a few years back w/o issues. Haven't had to return any so can't speak about customer service, etc.

I placed an order and got an "order receipt" so far. Should have shipping info sometime on Thursday... not cancelling my B&H order until I get a FEDEX tracking number.

Just noticed that my credit card got charged and my order for body only says "Shipping Soon". I talked to a CR and he confirmed that my order entered "shipping process", I should receive it on Friday.

I ordered on March 2nd , late afternoon...

1. On Canon's site, it claims that ALL-I Video recording uses 685 MB/min for both 30fps AND 24fps. This doesn't seem logical to me...does anybody know why?

2. For the enthusiast (me) who wants to make quality videos, but generally not clips to be used for full production level purposes, is there any definitive reason to shoot ALL-I instead of IPB?

3. Very often, a 10mp pic would be all I need. Would shooting in 10mp mode (M) produce different results than shooting in full resolution and then resizing in photoshop? If so, better? Worse?

AmbientLight said:

Using a cooler is an option as long as air humidity is extremely low. In case of humidity being present you do run a risk of foggy lenses.

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Yes, you would want to keep the temp in the cooler above the dew point. Where I live that is usually around 40F in the summer. Other places it could be mid 70's or higher though.

Over on DPR, Joseph Wisniewski is talking about the "3.5x3.5" binning that the D800 does. It didn't occur to me that you could bin by half.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=40975606

Before I went FF, I was married to my 10-22. For me this was a must-have lens for the wide and ultra-wide shots.

Fyi, i was in today and saw that Teds had both the kit (24-105) and body only available for purchase today. They said they recieved it this morning and also recieved the 600ex-rt. I dont have the money to purchase at the moment but was still pretty excited just to see it...ive been waiting for alonggggggggggggg time...

As you say, it appears they've started a thread in the image gallery section so we could move this there.

dr croubie said:

Considering that at most you're going to make a 1920*1080 movie out of it, you can just set your 7D to a smaller raw/jpg file (like sraw or mjpeg), with a 60 or 90mbps card you can just keep the button locked (like with a cable-release) and you should be able to shoot indefinitely. And if the 7D can do it, the 5D3 and 1DX definitely can, 7D2 should too...

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That's basically exactly what i do. I was looking to upgrade my camera and didn't want to lose that feature as clients are loving it. I got all excited reading about how the similarly priced alphas do 12fps but it sounds like they can't maintain it for very long. ideally i'd like to be able to roll for a minute or more, which is a breeze on my 7d with decent cards. any thoughts are welcome.

And with everyone jumping ship that line in front of you is getting shorter and shorter...

Yes, it is something to take into consideration. It can affect those autofocus test charts that are found on the internet. Properly designed targets take the autofocus point into consideration and make for fewer test errors where a camera actually focused on the wrong point.

Here is one that helps you focus on the correct spot on the chart.

http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart

V8Beast said:

Radiating said:

Both Canon and Nikon ALREADY use processing to increase the dynamic range of RAW files. Nikon's processing is several times more advanced than Canon's though.

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Very interesting. So is the Sony/Nikon Exmor sensor that much better than Canon's full-frame sensors, or is some of its advantage in DR attributable to better in-camera processing? Is contrast and color reproduction/saturation also tweaked by in camera before the information is recorded as a raw file?

IMHO, all that really matters is the end product, regardless how large of a role in-camera processing and the sensor itself plays in the equation. I suppose the notion that raw images accurately reflect sensor performance is bogus, but not quite as bogus as a jpeg.

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The advantage from Nikon is both in hardware AND software from Nikon. Not only do they process their raw files to maximize dynamic range much better than Canon, but they have better hardware. Color is not tweaked but constrast is (to help dynamic range). So Canon files have more contrast.

In-camera raw "cooking" is a serious issue because cameras are tools sold on their performance and trying to fool people by creating deceptive performance means people get a sub-par product. Generally speaking dynamic range, and long exposure noise are the only things that benefit from in camera processing. Beyond that processing degrades the image. The quality of the sensor is the single largest factor determining the level of noise and sharpness at a given ISO.

There was a recent camera system launched, I beleive it was a 4/3rds system which used in-camera sharpening of raw files, they did this so reviewers would think their lenses were sharper than they were which was a handicap of a small sensor. The lenses acheived litelrally impossible sharpness figures and made the impression you were getting L glass for half as much but the real photos didn't look that great. You were actually getting a worse product for more money because of the deception of raw cooking.

grahamsz said:

This is a pretty interesting discussion. Given some of the discussions here from simple benchmarking tests, you'd believe that Nikon are absolutely destroying Canon at low ISOs. While I'm certainly impressed with what Nikon can do at 36MP, there are comparison areas where I think the equivalent Canon image is stronger.

I'm sure it'd be possible to design a sensor and preprocessing logic to create really strong results on synthetic benchmarks. It's the engineering equivalent of teaching to the test, and we've seen in in the past with processor and gpu benchmarks on PCs.

I wonder how well a benchmark can control for something like that.

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Canon and Nikon already cheat very heavily when it comes to camera performance. Thankfully neither do anything that degrades sensor quality and for the most part they don't cook raw files to boost performance. They do however over-rate the ISO of a given camera to help in back to back benchmarks. The over-rating of ISO is so bad that in some cases it's 80%. Meaning your 6400 ISO photos are actually taken at around 3600 ISO. Thankfully both manufacturers do it so it evens out.

Thanks!

I got my 5D3 today, and I have played with this feature now. I like it! So cool!

DanielG said:

Just got called from them, looks like I will have my camera tomorrow

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I walked in this afternoon and purchased what was told to me to be the last of the camera-only boxes. As of 2:30pm EST they had numerous kits left.

While canceling with BH customer service couldn't believe that I had walked into a store and purchased the camera. Their loss.

Great guys. Definitely just won a new long term client.

Also, kit lenses are separated from the kits and sold separately at times at a discount price. If I am not mistaken, they are called "white box"... Only L would be 24-105 f/4 though and they are available only sometimes at some dealers...

Still no sign of the 5D Mark III in germany :-\

Thanks Both for your helpful info...

Can't afford the Mark III right now :-[

Re: crutchfield screwed me

I hope there is no restocking fee...