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5DMarkiii ordered @ Henrys

I just ordered a Canon 5D Mark iii from Henry's here in Oshawa.

The guy said he had about 8 at the warehouse in Toronto above and beyond the pre-orders.

The guy told me I'll have my camera this Friday or Monday at the latest.

So if anyone here in Ontario wants one get into Henry's ASAP and you'll have one real soon :)

$3699.99 CND

EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II VS Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS ?

neuroanatomist said:
ferdi said:
The MTF chart of the II looks better

Some people say the IS has improved a little too.

Some people say the moon is made of green cheese, too. :P The optics are identical in both versions. At least, Canon made no official statement to the contrary, and the size, weight, number of elements and groups, and most importantly, the MTF curves, are identical. Ok, the MTF curves are not exactly identical, because of an error on Canon's website (honest mistake, or trying to make the lenses look different?) - the 55mm MTF on one is identical to the 250mm MTF on the other, and vice versa.

I didn't even notice that because they are slightly different in size.
So it's all a matter of cosmetic preference. Maybe the resale version of the II is better?
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Looking for lens advise - Should I get he 18-200 or 15-85 or 18-135?

All, Here are some links with my albums.

Wildlife around the house: http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/560881377kqKvmD

Ganapati, a cultural festival: http://news.webshots.com/album/578686223oEThlA

Oxford panoramas: http://travel.webshots.com/album/575615231cvuFqn

Camera 300D
Wildlife with my 100-400 (mostly on 400mm)
The other 2 with the 18-55 kit lens
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Peace of mind for high end gear

Best ways to protect your gear:

1.) Get State Farm Personal Policy. It is like $1.49 per $100 insured. Covers theft, you dropping it, misplacement, fire, etc... Anything but mechanical failure due to age. They even cover you if you ship that item with UPS/Fedex to Canon or whatever for service, without needing to pay for more insurance through the carrier.

2.) Pay with AMEX or another card like it, so your warranty doubles. By paying with AMEX, for me, the 1-year Canon warranty turns into a 2-year warranty.
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Weird Banding on shots....

triggermike said:
Digital Cameras love fluorescent tubes as long as they are carefully selected.

Unfortunately, in those gymnasiums where fluorescent lighting is used, the maintenance people change out the burned out lamps with whatever they buy/get a deal on. In almost every instance, the color temperature of each lamp will vary from fixture to fixture (you can see this with the naked eye while sitting in the stands!) So you get a mixed color temp that cannot be isolated by the camera's WB setting.

Otherwise I tottaly agree - in a controlled studio setting fluorescent is becoming a poular way to illuminate and white balance can be dialed in directly and perfectly. (Westcott Spiders eg.)

True, but electronic ballasts will cure the rainbow effect he is seeing. Warm fluorescents are harder to color correct as well, but mixed light is a nightmare.
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Advice on newbie lens and body for trekking and general photography

sootzzs said:
I'm quite puzzled by the cheaper lens (18-55IS and 55-250IS) real potential. I have no doubt it is impossible to compare them to L line, but optically these lens get a quite good marks on many reviews (including DPreviews) and 4.5 stars on Amazon from multiple users (including pro photographers). Both are also noted for their excellent IS. They are plastic and cheap build, no doubt. But at this price both seem more than OK for a casual amateur. Why people here are so against them? Again, I'm not comparing to the L series which I can't afford right now (even second hand).

These lenses are rated highly because they offer great value. Bang for the buck. There are better lenses out there, but they cost a lot more.

Both these lenses have plasic lens mounts, as does 50/1.8. This works fine when these light lenses are coupled with a light body such as a Drebel. These lens mounts don't need to support much weight, and plastic works just fine. I have used my 50/1.8 on many skiing and backpacking trips, and it has been reliable.

Yes it'll break when you drop it on a rock. But then again I'm not going to try dropping my 3-pound 7D and 200/2.8 L on that same rock

Example, Canon 50/1.8 used for action photography. Week-long backcountry ski trip. I used padded cases and ziploc bags to keep my gear from getting knocked around, and to prevent condensation.
128BradChapman.jpg


I don't have much experience with 18-55 IS. I've heard it's okay. My standard travel zoom nowadays is Tamron 17-50/2.8

I do have 55-250 and I use it for travel. It's surprisingly sharp. I've messed with many cheapo telephoto lenses in the past, and this is the first one that does not lead to disappointment. The IS and AF work well, and for travel you can't beat 300 grams for 250 mm.
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5D III AEB still limited to 3?

willhuff.net said:
Does anyone know if you have more flexibility setting the points the AEB are taken at? For example, with 7D you can do -1, 0, +1, or -2, 0 +2.
Will the 5D let you do -2, -1, 0, +1.33 or other combinations?

I hope so. The 5D II and 5D I let you do that. :) The limitation on the 5D II was you could only shoot 3 shots, and those shots could vary only by 2 stops. So -3,0+3 was not possible. You could however shoot -1+1,+3, which when added to -2,0+2, gave you a nice 6 photo bracket.

It sounds like the 5DIII now allows 3,5, or 7 shots in AEB, and the 2 stop limitation is also gone.
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Comparometer! 5D mkiii vs your current camera

@!ex said:
It was fun reading your rant. It is evident that you are going to have a good time with your new toys! So you have those nice ef lenses and no canon camera yet ? Time is going to be very slow until the 5D iii arrives !

Btw nice photos

Thanks, waiting is over tomorrow morning. I'll post some initial shots tomorrow night!

It's tempting but the sales tax is killer ;)
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5d3 + 70-200mk. II ISO test shots

pedro said:
Thank you very much for sharing. Would you mind if I'd ask you for some 51200 and 102400 shots, just to see how a serious test at these levels looks like? I do not work with LR. All done in DPP. But compared to DPP, how much NR did you apply?

What do you think, will 51k give us a usable low light street photography/portrait in B/W?

Cheers, Pedro

I think it'll be a lot like shooting and pushing TMZ back in the old days.
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fuji x-pro1 .. a winner.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/.shtm


A great camera is an amalgam of great handling and great image quality. Fuji has really nailed it on the latter of these. Image quality is superb. A number of working pros have observed that the X-Pro1 is seriously competing with their full-frame DSLRs in image quality and hence for space in their camera bags. I have to agree. In fact, let me stick my neck out and say that Fuji's X-trans is probably the best APS-C sensor yet. I have certainly not seen better.
........

This camera can see in the dark. Its performance up to ISO 6400 is nothing short of remarkable, in particular for an APS-C sensor. This is the first camera I have used where ISO is just not an issue. When I sent Michael a file shot at ISO 6400, he had the same reaction I did: this looks like a good ISO 1600 file. Even more impressively, the bulk of my evaluation has taken place using in-camera jpegs, given the current agony of RAW conversion. Relying on the in-camera jpeg engine appeared to impair performance very little. If more can be wrung out of a proper RAW file, as doubtless it can, a good thing will have been made even better.

Significantly, the high-ISO performance does not appear to be the product of mindless shmeering of images with indiscriminate application of suffocating noise reduction, as was the want of certain makers not that long ago. Rather, the Fuji seems to strike a nice balance between saving data and suppressing chroma noise. I have no hesitation in saying that this camera is fully usable for street photography up to ISO 6400. For landscape work one will generally stick to the base ISO of 200. Nevertheless, I would feel comfortable making a significant enlargement from an ISO 800 shot, and even beyond, depending on the subject matter. By any measure, this is superb performance.
......


The short take-away is that the X-Pro1's sensor leaves nothing on the table and can take anything the finest glass sends its way. The images coming off this sensor are superbly detailed.

I am particularly excited about testing this camera with my "M" glass once the appropriate adaptor arrives. Unfortunately, it didn't get here in time for this segment of the review, but I will update as soon as I've had a chance to put the camera through its paces with the ne-plus-ultra of lenses.This combination could make for a potent landscape solution.

I will say this, however: in a carefully shot side-by-side test, I could see little difference in resolution at 100% between the M9 with a 50mm late-model Summicron and the X-Pro1 with the 35mm f1.4, both at optimum apertures. The Leica had a barely perceptible edge in micro-contrast and, curiously, a clearly noticeable edge in colour gammut and sensitivity. The former of these is attributable to the lens. The latter seems more likely to be a function of the sensor. Whether this is intrinsic to the sensor, something about the X-Trans configuration (unlikely) or bad de-bayering, I don't know.

To be clear, there was nothing wrong or deficient about the X-Pro1s colour reproduction. In fact, I find it to be pleasing and accurate, and pretty on-the-mark in auto white balance. If I hadn't been looking at side-by-side files, I would never have noticed the Leica's advantage. (And no, it's not a function of the jpeg conversion. The colour issue caused me to crack-out the Fuji RAW conversion software and I could not do much better with it than with in-camera jpegs at a fairly highly saturated setting).

All in all, however, the sensor is excellent. If scaled to full-frame, it would have cleaned the Leica's clock (being 30-40MPs!). As it is, this APS-C sensor is highly competitive with the best-of-the-best, when equipped with the right lens, and when things are in focus....


i would hope that canon has the balls to put such inventions (like the x-trans sensor) in their DSLR cameras.
but canon is too conservative. once the leader... now the follower. :(

the 5D MK3 and 1D X are great cameras.. don´t get me wrong.

but they are just small updates when it comes to sensor technology.

i don´t want 30+ MP.. but more DR and no need of an AA filter would be very welcome.
i had great hope for more DR (not so much that canon get rid of the AA filter yet) but DR seems not be improved that much (if at all).

Are those fungus by any chance?

Yeah - I'd forgotten the sunlight trick - that's an excellent one to try first, as it is cheap and easy. Just don't drop it off the window ledge!

Yep, Singapore is hot and humid, but at least you have Sentosi, right? ;D

It still doesn't look like fungus to me, but maybe we get different fungus in the UK. Oil won't damage the lens per se, but it can cause a lot of trouble, especially if it gets into the aperture blades.

The catch with fixing anything is that whilst lenses are usually relatively easy to dismantle (the front element unscrews as a rule) they are not always so easy to put back together, especially with no finger prints or dust inside! You may want to give this is a try if it's cheaper lens, but it looks like an L to me, which I wouldn't dream of.

Here is what I would do in your cicumstance:

1. Try the UV trick for a few days at least. Make sure their is no chance of dropping of the ledge, make sure it is getting plenty of UV, move it around to get both ends.

2. Stick into a humidity sealed container (food box?) for a week or two with a dessicant - dry rice will do if you don't have anything better. This will get rid of any humidity (and associated bloom) inside the lens.

Then see if there is any change. If not, take it to a dealer and ask for advice, or phone the local service centre to arrange a full clean.

Contrary to popular opinion, fungus isn't 'catching' - it is pretty much everywhere, all the time. Keeping your lenses dry will prevent this happening.
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5DM3: What speed/brand cards?

I have a box of 8 x 16gb SanDisk Extreme Pro CF. I never fill a card up, but change it at a natural point so I might go home with 4 partially filled cards (from a wedding for example)

As I have dual cards I always have a fast 32Gb SD card loaded just in case

I also have my laptop with card reader and external disk so if possible I will backup the cards straight onto the laptop and then sync the external. This job is for the helper usually.
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Canon 1.26x FD-EOS Converter

Alright! So here's the deal on that converter.. It costs like a G. Probably no one here has one..

And I have no idea if it's $1000 because it's RARE, or because it's GOOD, or both. I've read all over the place that "3rd party lensed FD to EOS adapters are pretty much crap, and the Canon one is really expensive." No one ever says how the Canon one performs..

But I'd hope (and assume) it performs well, because Canon sold it (for $$$) exclusively to professionals with big-money FD lenses. And they'd have to make something that doesn't completely turn those big-money lenses into complete crap. I'd imagine it performs equal to or better than a 1.4x TC. You also probably lose maybe 1/2 or 2/3 of a stop of light? Something like that. They probably made the smallest TC they could, and they probably didn't skimp on it, so that's why I'm figuring it performs equal to or better than a 1.4x TC. Other than that, I've got nothing.

If you want to be a superstar, you can get an EdMika adapter, and compare the performance of your FD lens with and without the Canon adapter, and post the results. : D So we know just what that $1000 gets us! And if it turns out it sucks, just remember to go sell the adapter BEFORE you post the results! ~_^
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Insurance

Careful here guys. I know some guys who got burned pretty good by putting their equipment on a "homeowners" policy rather than a business policy. If you are making ANY money with your camera equipment, its a very very easy excuse for insurance companies to not pay up on the loss, and trust me, they will.

Ive been insured with Marsh for the past 4 years. They are very reasonably priced and excellent at servicing professional photographers. Oh, did I mention only a $100 deductible too!?!
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