Threads

Cheekysascha · Jun 30, 2016

Hey everyone, so all 3 of my cameras ( 2 1dx and 5ds) have managed to get dirt inside the viewfinder box, and I i've brought it to CPS but was told they would need to take apart the entire camera and was wondering if it's common to get this problem? I owned two 5d mark 3's before this and never had this problem, and I used to switch lenses ALOT back then compared to now where I barely take off my 24mm 1.4 ii prime off the 5ds etc..

I know the 1DX is supposed to have problems with sensor dirt but I never heard of dirt/dust problems inside the viewfinder.

Does anyone else get dirt/dust in their camera viewfinders?

ahsanford · Jun 30, 2016

http://petapixel.com/2016/06/30/fuji-release-affordable-mirrorless-medium-format-september-report/

Fuji created a slight breach of etiquette by skipping the (FF) triple dare and going right for the (medium format) throat!

- A

Canon Rumors · Jun 30, 2016

Discuss our review of the Canon EOS 80D here.

brianftpc · Jun 29, 2016

"Canon cameras are known for high ISO noise performance, and the Mark II surpasses both the Nikon and Sony by nearly +0.5EV"

Then why the hell cant I see it. I own both the 1Dx and 1Dx mk2........I see zero high ISO difference...nor have I seen any in ANY review. Have I missed a firmware upgrade???

Larsskv · Jun 29, 2016

Currently, I have the 5Ds and 7DII. After I got the 5Ds, the reason for having an APS-C camera for reach is gone. All the lenses I have are for full frame, and I really do prefer using my lenses at their intended effective focal lenght. Although I am very happy with my 7DII, and I dont have an issue with focusing or sharpness, I am considering changing my 7DII for a second FF body.

I don´t shoot professionally, and I don´t need two bodies, but I often prefer carrying to bodies, rather than changing lenses. I would usually have a wide or standard lens on one body, and a tele lens on the other when hiking, or a 35+85 combo on social events. I dont shoot video.

The 5Ds will probably be my go to camera.

A 5DIII would be an obvious choice as a back up body, and used prices are getting reasonable these days. My biggest issue with the 5DIII, is that it will be too similar to my 5Ds. It wouldn't really have many features I need over the 5Ds, and therefore I don´t think it would make me that excited.

The 1DX has features that I think will supplement the 5Ds very well - speed, low light, weather sealing and responsiveness. One thing I love about my 7DII is it´s responsiveness, and I expect the 1DX to be more responsive. The cons about the 1DX are the size and weight. The 1DX wouldn´t fit very well in my favorite backpack, the Mindshift rotation 180 Panorama.

Waiting for the 5DIV has been my main plan, but seeing the reasonable prices for used 1DX cameras has made me reconsider. I could always buy the 1DX now, and sell it if the 5DIV turns out to be the camera of my dreams.

What would you choose, and why - a used 1DX or a 5DIV? Thank you!

GuyF · Jun 29, 2016

http://www.dxomark.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-1D-X-Mark-II-sensor-review-New-class-leader

"The Canon performs exceptionally well. Not only does it have a wider useful dynamic range at base and low ISOs than the Nikon, it’s not far behind the Sony, and that small difference won’t be noticed in use. The Canon sensor continues to offer a wide dynamic range at every ISO setting, improving on the Sony from ISO800 onwards, and falling only slightly behind the Nikon’s strong performance from ISO6400 onwards. Indeed, the difference at most is around +0.6EV. Canon cameras are known for high ISO noise performance, and the Mark II surpasses both the Nikon and Sony by nearly +0.5EV.
Conclusion

This is a well-deserved result for Canon, and this versatile sensor should prove attractive to a wide range of photographers, including those that work in multiple disciplines. The wide dynamic range at low ISOs should appeal to all photographers, but especially those using it for landscapes, and the low noise at high ISOs will also appeal to action and sports photographers. Although the new model is aimed primarily at that market, the increase in pixel count over its predecessor now matches that of the earlier EOS-1Ds Mk III, a model that’s still highly regarded for editorial and commercial work. It is not too much of a stretch to view the new EOS-1D X Mk II as the natural successor to that camera, and its wide range of capabilities, including DCI 4K video, make it look highly tempting. Sure, it would have been great to see a higher pixel count, but overall, the sensor performance offers photographers the versatility to tackle a wide range of assignments with just one camera."

DaveWales · Jun 29, 2016

A word of warning to anyone who buys a 1DX2. You can't use a third party battery with one. My Hahnel worked perfectly with the 1D4, gave a communication error message with the 1DX but worked other than giving a charge status level but it just won't even switch on the 1DX2.
I have tried another third party battery belonging to a friend and that turns on the camera and warns the battery is counterfeit. Proceeding further could cause serious problems. I did and it didn't, well other than turning the camera off.
It will of course use the previous Canon batteries that fit

bitm2007 · Jun 29, 2016

A 10 stop group test by Bryan at The Digital Picture revealed that the Hoya ND Pro 1000 has a sharpness/ghosting issue, when the viewfinder is left uncovered. Have any of you used this filter with the viewfinder covered/block, was the sharpness/ghosting issue, still apparent ?

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/10-Stop-Neutral-Density-Filter.aspx

drmikeinpdx · Jun 28, 2016

http://www.michaelyon-online.com/my-encounter-with-eurocracy-and-why-digital-cameras-have-a-30-minute-video-recording-limit.htm

I've followed Michael Yon's writing for a long time and thought some of my CR friends might appreciate his insight.

Canon Rumors · Jun 28, 2016

HTML:

<p><strong>MELVILLE, N.Y., June 28, 2016</strong> – Canon U.S.A., Inc., a leader in digital imaging solutions, today announced that the Canon Hollywood Professional Technology & Support Center currently located at 6060 Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood, Calif., will be relocating to 3400 West Olive Ave., Burbank, Calif.</p>
<p>In this new central location, Canon will greatly enhance its already award-winning service and support to further assist the growing number of professional filmmakers and broadcast production clients in Southern California. The Burbank facility will also serve as a hub for product training, educational events, expedited repairs and hands-on technical support for Canon’s business partners, rental houses and professional clients.</p>
<p>“Since our 2011 launch of Cinema EOS, Canon has been steadfastly committed to exceeding the high expectations of our professional clients in the production community. With this new facility, we reinforce that commitment to our professional imaging clients as well as our investment to support film and broadcast production. In Burbank, we will support our clients’ productivity through a dynamic mix of product evaluation and testing, training, industry events and expedited repairs,” said Yuichi Ishizuka, president and COO, Canon U.S.A., Inc. “Additionally, our new Burbank location will be yet another extension of Canon Professional Services’ powerful support network for the region’s professional photojournalists, fashion, studio, commercial and sports photographers.”</p>
<p>The approximate date for completion of the move is early 2017.</p>
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bitm2007 · Jun 28, 2016

After reading the 10 filter reviews in the link below, I am interested in purchasing the "Breakthrough Photography X4 10-Stop ND Filter". Does anybody stock Breakthrough in the UK, or do I need to purchase from the US ?

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/10-Stop-Neutral-Density-Filter.aspx

Canon Rumors · Jun 28, 2016

HTML:

<p class="bod">Thank you for using Canon products.</p>
<p class="bod">It has been confirmed that when shooting still images with the EOS-1D X Mark II digital SLR camera launched in April 2016 with SanDisk CFast cards, the following phenomenon will occur.</p>
<p class="bod">We would like to offer our sincere apologies to users who have been inconvenienced by this issue.</p>
<p class="bod"><strong>Phenomenon</strong></p>
<p class="bod">If a SanDisk CFast card is inserted into the camera or a card reader, the bottom part of still images recorded may be corrupted.</p>
<p class="bod">This phenomenon is confirmed in images recorded in both the RAW and JPEG formats.

In the RAW file, the image corruption may appear in the bottom right corner of the image.

In the JPEG file, the image corruption may appear in the lower third area of the image.</p>
<p class="bod">Please Note:

Movie recording is not affected by this phenomenon.

Still images or movies recorded to CF cards are not affected by this phenomenon.</p>
<p class="bod"><!--more--></p>
<p class="bod"><strong>Cause</strong></p>
<p class="bod">This phenomenon is caused by SanDisk CFast cards. The camera does not cause this phenomenon.</p>
<p class="bod"><strong>Affected Products</strong></p>
<p class="bod">SanDisk CFast cards.</p>
<p class="bod">Image corruption may be experienced with the cards listed below:</p>
<p class="bod">The “xxx” at the end of the product number varies depending on the sales region.

SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 64GB (SDCFSP-064G-xxx)

SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 128GB (SDCFSP-128G-xxx)

SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 64GB (SDCFSP-064G-xxxA)

SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 128GB (SDCFSP-128G-xxxA)

SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 64GB (SDCFSP-064G-xxxB)

SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 128GB (SDCFSP-128G-xxxB)</p>
<p class="bod"><strong>Market Support </strong></p>
<p class="bod">Although it has been confirmed that this phenomenon is caused by SanDisk CFast cards, to prevent the occurrence of this phenomenon, Canon will be releasing a camera firmware (Ver 1.0.2) on the Web for a download service in early July.</p>
<p class="bod">All new EOS-1D X Mark II cameras distributed by Canon Australia and Canon New Zealand after June 27th will have firmware Version 1.0.2.</p>
<p class="bod">We would like to apologize for the inconvenience, but we would like to ask our customers to refrain from using SanDisk CFast cards when shooting still images until the new camera firmware becomes available.</p>
<p class="bod"><strong>Workaround</strong></p>
<p class="bod">It is our understanding that image files of about 16MB or less recorded immediately before the camera’s power is turned off may become corrupted. Below are the methods available to help avoid image corruption when powering off the camera:</p>
<p class="bod">The Camera can be powered off in four ways:

1) When the power switch is set to OFF

2) When the card slot cover is opened

3) When the power is turned off due to the Auto Power Off setting

4) When the battery is removed</p>
<p class="bod"><strong>The phenomenon can be prevented by performing the procedure below:</strong></p>
<p class="bod">Before powering the camera off, please take extra shots*1 because the extra shots taken immediately before the camera is powered off may experience the corruption and not the images taken before the extra shots were taken.</p>
<p class="bod">*1 The table below shows the most popular file types used and how many extra shots are recommended.</p>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><strong>File Size (Approx.) </strong></td>
<td><strong> How many extra shots do I need to

take in order to meet the 16MB or

larger requirement</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <RAW> 23.2MB</td>
<td>1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <JPEG> L: 6.2MB</td>
<td>3</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <JPEG> M1: 4.3MB</td>
<td>4</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <JPEG> M2: 3.4MB</td>
<td>5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <JPEG> S: 2.2MB</td>
<td>8</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
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Go Wild · Jun 28, 2016

As the tittle sais....i am completely tired of the 7D markII. I´m done...

Explaining:

I am shooting wildlife since 2008, from those years i have been using some eos bodys like 350D, 40D, 5D markII and recently 5D markIII and 7D markII. Yes, unfortunatly i am not a rich guy and never could get a 1D body....But work is being good, and i am able now to get the best lenses and good bodys, i always prefer to get the best lenses than to splash the money in a body.

So i get the 5d markIII because i also make some weddings and comercial services, but i needed a body more suitable for wildlife. When the 7d markII was announced i got that feeling it was the perfect camera for me. Great shuuter speed, great AF and a 20MP with good ISO behaviour looks like stellar to me! I could get finally a good wildlife body without having to buy the expensive 1D X.

I will jump all the story to the end. I am now using the 7D markII for 1,5 years and i got tired of getting soft photos and out of focus photos.
From the first days i put in me the problem. I suposed it was me the problem and i needed to use the so called "learning curve" beacuse the AF sistem ws very complex. Yes, maybe it was my mistake and somehow i was loosing the capability of focusing right.

But no....after all this time, after i tryed everything, no. My learning curve teached me that this is a camera problem! In the same situations, with same lenses, i get stellar sharp photos with the 5d markIII, then i change to the 7D markII and they are soft. And no, of course i am not comparing a fullframe with a APS-C, i mean REAL soft!!
but the most ridiculous, is that i discover a huge inconsistance in this camera! With the same settings, with the same subjects sometimes i get a sharp photo (but yet still not totally clean), and then without any change the photos get soft.
This happens with every lens i use. 16-35 F4 IS L, 50mm F1.8 STM, Tamron 90mm F2.8, Tamron 150-600, Canon 500mm F4 IS L.

I tryed to AFMA to get better results, i have lost a huge amount of time getting the lenses in the best spot of AFMA, i find in every lenses a need to afma but even so, i gained a little bit more detail but still, the focus continued to be inconsistant and i continue to get, from my perspective, bad photos.

And i am tired! I got back from a trip to the polar region, i have made a job with polar bears. 75% of the photos i get with the 7D markII are just non usable! 98% of the photos i have made with the 5D markIII are just PERFECT! WTF Canon???!!

I exclude the possibility that i am making anything wrong because i have just tryed everything with this camera! So i am tired, angry and tired of her! I don´t exclude the fact that my camera could have a problem. It was one of the firsts, i bought her as soon as she got out, but this is really making me getting tired of Canon...Specially, when you have friends that use Nikon, and you see better photos in sharpness and detail issues taking with a Nikon D7100 than with the 7D markII. And i have tryed the Nikon D500 and i got really satisfied with the camera in first impressions....But of course i don´t want to change, i have everything from canon and i really am a fan of canon....But this camera is killing me....

The problem is that i don´t have any body unless i go for the 1D series that could give me "settings" of the 7D markII.

I am considering to send camera to Canon Portugal (i am from Portugal), but i find a lot of articles in internet with the same complain about the camera, and when they sent the camera, it just returns equal.....

If someone have some sugestion regarding to the camera i really apreciate, otherwise i am just thinking in selling this camera and try to buy a 1D markIV in second hand....

ps - sorry about any error in english...

pj1974 · Jun 28, 2016

Hi Everyone

The new Cactus v6ii (and v6iis - for Sony) have just been announced... and I, for one, am impressed. Early this year, I heard about the v6ii versions coming out (including their basic specs), and that prevented me from buying any other radio triggers.

http://www.cactus-image.com/v6ii.html
http://www.cactus-image.com/special/Cactus-V6II-HSS/

Over the past 9 months or so, I have been enjoying learning lots more about flash lighting (I had a basic knowledge about flashes previous to that). I'm quite keen to buy 4 x of these triggers.

The fact that the Cactus triggers will work on all my current flashes, AND looks to be quite future proof (across brands, types) is very attractive to me. Also, as I want to be able to use HSS remotely, these new Cactus triggers have that covered too.

I have 2 x Canon flashes and 2 x Nissin Di866ii flashes also. I have a number of Canon DSLRs (mainly use my Canon 7D, though I also have a 350D and 700D).

Would appreciate hearing from 'lighting / flash folk' here, on your thoughts about these new Cactus triggers, and whether others think they'll buy (with reasons) or not (with reasons).

Thanks in advance!

Paul 8)

JPAZ · Jun 27, 2016

I have noticed an intermittant issue with my 5Diii after long exposures. Here's the scenario:

30+ minute exposure for "star trails" using in camera noise reduction yields an image but the shutter than becomes unresponsive until I remove the battery and wait a few seconds. This happens well after all procesing is finished. The red light is off. There is an image on the LCD. I've had it happen with a Neewer intervalometer using "Bulb" setting but to eliminate the non-OEM as the culprit, It has also happened using a Canon RS-80N3 remote release. It does not happen using either release for shorter exposures (say 5 or 10 minutes) that I can tell. When the camera freezes, unplugging the remote release does not fix the issue (I know, I do trun the camera power off first before unplugging). Turning the power switch off by itself does not fix the issue. Removing the battery does. What is perplexing is this is intermittant. I cannot relate it to the exposure time or the number of shots.

My theory is that it is an overheating issue but why then does turning the camera off for a while not resolve the problem?

Wondering if anyone has ever seen this. I have not done long exposures until the past few months so I don't know if it has always been an issue or not.

Thanks.

jaayres20 · Jun 27, 2016

I have to have AF assist during dark wedding receptions and I was angry that the smaller transmitter left off an AF assist. I do not need my on camera flash to produce light (I rely on off camera lights), however I need it to control the other flashes and provide a reliable AF assist. When the 430ex iii came out I thought that it would make a great master for my off camera flashes, but I have read on this form that the AF assist only works with the center AF point, and that is not acceptable. I shoot with the 1dx2 and as good as it is, it can't focus in complete darkness. The 600ex is large and it puts a lot of stress on my hands and wrists throughout a long event. I would love to know if it is possible to take the flash part off of a 600ex and only leave the battery compartment, controls, and AF assist. Is there anyone who would be able to do that? I doubt Canon would do it.

Travelintrevor · Jun 27, 2016

I have read that the most challenging objects to track are the ones that rapidly approach camera. Is this true?
If so, then the 7D MK II does an amazing job! Not a single shot out of the entire sequence is OOF...not one bit.

Exposure conditions were not easy (sun from above at 2pm) and I pushed the shadows a bit so the photos do have an...interesting look but I don't feel like tweaking the files since this is about high speed tracking.

The Sigma 50-100 f1.8 also does not miss a beat. I only had the 24-70 2.8 vii with me but did not try it due to a lack of reach.

Feel free to download the gallery and take a look.

https://rudyconrad.smugmug.com/Photo-sessions/7dmkii-and-sigma-50100-18-trac/n-crw95w/

picturefan · Jun 27, 2016

Hi all!

I´m often reading posts in this forum concerning the newer 7D MkII. Decided to get this cam instead a FF because of some wildlife photography and the crop-factor. For me the cam is alright, also for other subjects that I do a lot, also for some semi-pro use.
My problem: for me it is not possible to get a single sharp picture at higher distances (e.g. 20 metres away, like birds etc.)

But: at shorter distances it´s ok. ???

I tried many things to find out, what the problem is: different cams, lenses, adjustments...
Here´s my spec: Iso 200, back-button focus, raw, shutter-speed 1/250 +/-, tripod, 100-400II, liveview, is-off.
That is how to get super-sharp pics with other cams - but not here. There is always some kind of haze instead of sharpness in the pics, especially when magnifying.

How do you all manage to get these sharp pics I´ve seen?
I think afma is not needed because of liveview (contrast-detection) -> no back/frontfocus.
S.th. wrong with cam? Some kind of distorted technique? Send to Canon? Other ideas?

Thank you for your replies.

PS: Maybe others have the same problem with that pix-monster (effec. 50mpix) ?!

martti · Jun 27, 2016

Basically I already wrote this post once and as I did it the answer became clear.
But because I have an afternoon off and nothing urgent to do, I try to reproduce my line of thought here.

Now, I live on a tropical island which is very fine but it shuts you off mentally unless you get out every once in a while. So this time I am taking off to Poland.

Why the hell should anybody want to go to Poland? Exactly. Some people who do say that it is absolutely fantastic because there are hardly any tourists, you get good service and decent quality for a price that is hard to resist. I brought up the subject with a Polish coworker who immediately lighted up and promised to arrange me some Very Personal services in Krakow and around the lakes etc.

Then I started pondering about should I take the Sony A6000 or the Canon 5DIII to take pictures with.
For the Sony I have the 16-70 zoom, the 35mm f/1.8 for low light and a Rokinon 12mm f/2.0 as wide. That would be a nice and light setup with all the situations I could possibly face. Except long telephotos, of course.
That would probably be the ideal setup for a traveller...with extra batteries and a charger of course.

But then I started to think. So many times I have been disappointed with the Sony because the autofocus has not managed to get it right. It is really annoying. Apart from that, the picture quality leaves nothing to hope for.

But when it comes actually to taking pictures, I like the certainty that the picture is there. This is what I get with Canon. I would probably take along the Tamron 24-70 VC zoom and the 50mm L for low light. Two batteries and a charger that I probably would not need.
This setup is a lot heavier and clumsier. But I'd be sure to get the pictures.

I will not be buying anything more.
I would be leaving home the 150-600mm Tamron, the 24mm, the 35mm and the 85mm L-lenses and the 17mm Soligor. And the Sony 20mm and the Jupiter 3.

What would you be carrying?

Canon Rumors · Jun 27, 2016

HTML:

There are a <a href="http://photorumors.com/2016/06/27/sigma-is-rumored-to-start-its-own-line-of-cinema-lenses/">few reports out there</a> that Sigma will finally enter the cinema lens market, and we could see some kind of announcement ahead of Photokina in September.</p>
<p>The <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/sigma-to-enter-the-world-of-cinema-lenses/">subject came up back in July 2014</a> in an interview with Sigma CEO Kazuto Yamaki, who gave the standard “no comment”, which is generally a confirmation of sorts.</p>
<p>Photokina does seem like an odd place to announce a new line of cinema lenses, however we could get a development announcement of sorts and then the big splash could come in April at NAB.</p>
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AdamBotond · Jun 27, 2016

Altough I'm a 6D user for mainly wildlife photography (whaaaat?), last weekend I rented a 7D II as I wanted to gain some ideas, whether its reasonable to make a switch (or addition) for me or not. That being said, I have favoured the better IQ in contrast with stellar AF system and pro-like features in the past. My biggest concern has always been the APSC IQ and noise level, especially in low light situations, where most of wildlife actions take place.

After testing a 7D II in real world I ended up some conclusions:

PROs:

Noise level. On paper 7D II produces approx twice amount of noise at the same iso compared to 6D. However, I found pics absolutely usable at 6400. I would rarely (almost never) go to 12800 with my 6D.
AF system is stellar, but you have to know how to utilize it. I guess its safe to say, that the more sophisticated AF system gives you more room to both succeed and fail at the same time. Some of my fox shots were out of focus, because I carelessly chose spot AF for the scenario that resulted back focus problems.

Crop-factor. Its hard to not love the extra reach, that APSC offers you. My 400mm 5.6 becomes 640mm on 7D II, I would not be able to make that with any FF+lens combo lightweight.

Frame rate: With 7D II you have twice as much pics in a sec, which is a big thing. In other words, you have 2x more chance to grab the perfect moment. On the other hand, you will end up twice as much pics to delete from.

Metering system seems much more accurate than the 6D's. Exposure was almost always perfect in the most challenging situations to me.

Pro features, dedicated AF menu are also much appreciated for any action photographers.

Cons:

Dynamic range: It was very very narrow. Its unfair to compare it to a sensor of a FF camera, but still. I am used to slightly overexpose my shots, so I could pull back the highlights and gain some information in the dark areas to end up with more DR, but that technique did not really worked well with the 7DII for me. To put it simply, what was clipping on the screen of camera was actually gone and most of them could not be saved in post processing, either. That makes me think its better to expose for the highlights rather.

Loose of depth of field: I was expected to loose some on an APSC, but it wasn't noticeable to me, not a deal braker to say the least.

So while switching my FF body for a pro APSC is not going to happen, adding 7D II to my kit would definitely help my wildlife photography.
Any inputs of 7D II users would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading.

dcm · Jun 26, 2016

Upgraded from a 6D in early May - still learning but quite impressed with the 1DX2. It addressed the 6D shortcomings in a big way for me. While taking some photos of my grandkid playing in the backyard about 20 feet away, I heard a helicopter with a different rotor sound than normal and glimpsed it passing behind a tree out of the corner of my eye. I pivoted 90 degrees to catch it emerging from the tree, pressed the shutter as soon as it entered the frame, and hoped I would get something.

Click the images for full size versions

These are the first three frames of a 6 frame burst at 10 FPS using 70-200/2.8 at 200mm, f/2.8, 1/2000 sec, and ISO 400. The last three were the same as the third. AF surround, case 5 (I have an active grandkid) with equal priorities on AI Servo first and second images. Probably an easy situation for the camera with clear sky in the background but I'm impressed nonetheless. I also managed to get her to run towards me in a zigzag starting about 100 feet away and every frame was in focus.

More images to process from a recent trip but the previews look pretty good.

The extra weight/cost of the 1DX2 is becoming less and less noticeable.

laza99 · Jun 25, 2016

The Zeiss 100MP much smaller than a 1:1 macro would be, still it costs much.
http://ogiroux.smugmug.com/photos/i-txZXwx6/0/X2/i-txZXwx6-X2.jpg

Here is a pic of future expansion of the line:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5657/21303169532_912d20bfd5_c.jpg
135 and 200 seems reasonable, but I dont want to wait till the 2050's. Even a new Canon 180 II with IS or 200 f2.8 would largely satisfly my needs, but Im afraid of buying the Sigma 180 OS since Ive used Zeiss lenses...

Do you think we get the Zeiss 200mm/2.8 soon? Any rumors around?

pwp · Jun 25, 2016

In almost all respects I'm truly loving the 24-70 f/2.8II which I got a couple of years ago. I'm one of those photographers who works hard with all my attention on the project and minimal regard for the well-being of the hardware, so it does get bumped and exposed to dirt, dust & the sort of muck you might expect to encounter in an oil refinery. The filter often gets a wipe down with my shirt. Canon bodies and L glass are durable and built to hack the daily grind. Like wearing a seatbelt in my car, I value the protection I get from a UV protective filter and routinely have either a UV attached, as well as the hood. The UV is an alleged good one, a Rodenstock Digital Pro UV/1x 82mm.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/876158-REG/Rodenstock_408211_82mm_UV_Blocking_HR.html
http://www.rodenstock-photo.com/en/uv-blocking-filter

Reviews of this lens all comment on how good its flare resistance is, particularly for a zoom. Mine seems very vulnerable to flare, the dreaded green blobs. Maybe it's that Rodenstock filter.

Is there a particular filter brand/model that has the highest no-flare credentials?

-pw

[email protected] · Jun 25, 2016

I finally got around to trying out the Tamron Tap-in Console (a brand name that could only be created by a Japanese company that's over-confident in its translator's abilities).

The interface is nicer than the Sigma dock's. It is also more functional, allowing for focus throw adjustment and a few other things. The focus throw adjustment is subtle. By way of example, the short throw focused from 12 feet to 3 feet in 15 degrees of motion, and the long throw did the same racking in a little more than 20 degrees of motion.

I have the Tamron 35 and 85, but only the 85 works with the dock currently, as my 35mm needs a firmware update before it'll be compatible. There is a list of serial numbers on the Tamron site that shows which versions need an update and which do not.

When I put the 85mm on the dock, it didn't need any focus adjustment, which was a little bit of a disappointment. At all ranges, it nails focus, so I can't report any good works attributable to the dock yet on the focus front. I should note that in the process of testing the lens, I think the 85mm proved to be the most consistent in focus I've ever tested. Even among the Canon L series. Don't know if I'm just lucky, or if this is generally true of the model. My 35mm 1.4 L II was about as good.

In all, I'm pretty happy with the dock, but impatient to have it work with my Tamron lenses. I have the 15-30 2.8 as well, but I don't think they plan on making that compatible with the dock via firmware.

I own the Sigma dock, and I'm a big fan of that too, for those lenses. Yes, it's more work, but for the pixel peepers, it's worth it. I have roughly the same number of Tamron, Sigma and Canon lenses, and I do not think one brand has higher or lower average AFMA values when you're dealing with each brand's top of the line. But Sigma and Tamron give me more control over focus at different focus lengths. And, as it happens, it's necessary for some lenses. I hope that Canon in the future provides this feature. I'm happy with it being in-camera, rather than with a dock, as that allows for more customization per body.

Last note: I think most of us have had a simplistic idea of how AFMA works; the idea being that there is a slight variation in mount tolerance or some such measure, which causes a front- or back-focusing that requires a corrective adjustment. But in AFMA'ing a couple dozen lenses over a few bodies over the years, I'm coming to the conclusion that these relationships aren't linear - or even a terribly smooth function. You don't notice that when you have only one value to set in AFMA. You seldom notice it when you have two values to set, as with Canon zooms. But when you have three (Tamron) or four (Sigma), you start to see that it's not a neat pattern of adjustment. I think this means there are probably multiple causes, some of which are pretty complex. I for one would like to know more about that, and I can't really find anything online that explores the issue beyond basic AFMA instruction.

-tig

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