Threads

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 7, 2017

Here is a first cut of a process for inserting images into the gallery, and then into a post. Once in a gallery, a image can be linked to multiple posts.

1. Prepare your image(s) for uploading. The following formats can be uploaded: bmp, gif, jpeg, and png. The image size must be no larger than 4800 pixels on the largest dimension, and the file size is limited to 6.68 MB. Unfortunately, RAW images cannot be uploaded at this time.

2. Click the gallery tab in the dark gray bar near the top of the screen and select add picture in the drop down menu. You can also select add picture from the gallery and other places as well.

3. In the panel that comes up, pick Gallery or User Gallery, then select a category and then add picture.

A. The Gallery (for all users)
B. The User Gallery (your personal gallery) In your user gallery, you can create categories or put them all in one default category, but a category should be selected at this point.

4. In the screen that comes up, there will be two choices for uploading photos.

A. Single image: browse to the image, give it a title, and add any appropriate description. click add picture and it will upload.

B. Multiple images - drag and drop, or click the panel, and browse to the images you want to upload. Click add picture and they will upload.

5. Navigate to the gallery by clicking "My Images" along the top of the window, select your photo and copy one of the three BBS fields under the photo. There are three fields which represent three sizes of image.

Note: There is a small blue icon to the right of the code that will highlight it and copy it to your clipboard, at least it does for my windows 10 pc if it works for you, it makes copying the code much easier.

1. BB Code - (Full size image)
2. BB Thumbnail Image Code
3. BB Medium Image Code

6. Paste the BBS link you copied into your post being sure to click the insert image icon on the post, and pasting into the field that pops up, or in the center of the img tags if your browser inserts them. Different browsers do it differently.

dpc · Mar 7, 2017

Not a landscape but I was unsure where else to put this. The Cetus Leader is a vehicle transport carrier under Panamanian registry. I spotted it off the coast of Vancouver Island near Victoria a week or two ago. A true leviathan of the deep.

I'm still trying to get my head around this new posting system. I don't seem to have the sizing quite right.

hovland · Mar 7, 2017

I’m I serious doubt whether to by a film scanner ore to by a macro lens and use my 5d IV for digitization of my negatives and slides.
I don’t have that many slides ore negatives, but still some.
Initially I was looking for a Braun fs120 ore a similar, but after reading some review’s I’m in serious doubt.
The main reason I wanted a scanner was to have some automation and automatic dust/scratch removal. (I hate doping it manually in Lightroom)
So I now looking into maybe doing a combination, a “cheaper” scanner and macro for the best shots. (100 2,8L)
Anny thoughts around this? can anyone recommend a decent medium priced scanner that is good enough for most scans. Max price around 100$/€, and I need only to scan 35mm. From other posts here, I see that some are quite positive to the Epson 850 pro. But is there a smaller alternative?

LSXPhotog · Mar 7, 2017

Has anyone been having issues shooting with a remote trigger system on the top of their 5D Mark IV? I've been experiencing an issue where the camera will randomly stop commanding the trigger on the top. You have to take it off and put it back on or turn the camera off/on for it to work again. I thought maybe it was a communication with the Pocket Wizard because of the channel, so I changed the channel, then I realized when I press the TEST button, it worked every time. The camera itself was just not telling the Transceiver to work...

This is a very big disappointment to me because I have a lot of money invested into my lighting. It's not only embarrassing to have these go down during a shoot, but it's getting in the way of my work very often.

Are there maybe settings in the camera that I'm messing with that could be impacting the performance? Maybe WiFi? I am just stumped here. Pocket Wizard is pretty bad with its customer support as they haven't pick up the phone or respond to emails for 2 days.

Thanks for the heads up.

Pocket Wizard III and Dynalite Baja Triggers both have the same issue.

Canon Rumors · Mar 7, 2017

HTML:

The Canon EOS 6D Mark II, the most anticipated DSLR from Canon in 2017 has been put through a certification agency alongside a few other products such as the EOS Rebel SL2 and the PowerShot SX 730 HS.</p>
<p><em>*Note We’re assuming which product code goes with which camera.</em></p>
<p><strong>DS126631 (Canon EOS 6D Mark II)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Digital single-lens reflex camera</li>
<li>Wi-Fi · Bluetooth installed</li>
<li>Equipped with latest wireless module ES202</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>DS126671 (Canon EOS Rebel SL2)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Digital single-lens reflex camera</li>
<li>Wi-Fi · Bluetooth installed</li>
<li>The wireless module is the same as Kiss X9i and 9000D with ES200</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>PC 2329 & PC2355 (Not sure what this is yet)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Made in Japan</li>
<li>Wi-Fi · Bluetooth installed</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>PowerShot SX 730 HS</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>PC 2329 or PC 2335</li>
<li>Color: Black / Silver</li>
</ul>
<p>We’ll likely start hearing a lot more about the Canon EOS 6D Mark II soon.</p>
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Kit Lens Jockey · Mar 7, 2017

For a while I have been pretty alarmed by the rate at which my 5D4 was draining batteries. It had gotten to the point where I was thinking that there must be something wrong with the camera. There were times when it would be down to about 75% after taking only about 15 photos.

But, recently I also realized that even a freshly charged battery would show only about 75% when it was loaded into the camera, so I knew that something was a little fishy.

It's important to note that I'm using 3rd party batteries, but a brand that always seemed to work well in my 5D3. However, it's also important to understand that I normally keep my batteries charged up before every time I go out with the camera. I mean, why would you not?

Well, I'm now realizing that this habit of always charging the batteries seems to severely throw off the 5D4's estimate of remaining battery life. And I don't recall the 5D3 having this much of an issue with it.

I came to this conclusion because I decided that it would be good to just try letting a battery actually run down in the camera to see how long it would truly last, regardless of how fast the camera said the battery was going down. And I'm happy to report that, even though the battery level reported in the camera dropped steeply off in the beginning, I kept shooting without charging the battery over a few days, and the camera has been consistently revising the percentage up higher as the battery got used up.

It seems as though not letting the batteries go very low was really skewing how much capacity the camera thought the battery had. There was one point at which I went out, took some photos, ran the battery down to about 12%, left the camera set overnight with the battery in it, and when I went back to it the next day, the reported battery percentage had shot back up to thirty-something percent.

All in all, I shot a little over 700 photos on one battery (with minimal chimping), despite an initial steep decline in battery percentage which made me think it wouldn't even be able to make it to 100. It was still showing about 8%, but I was in the middle of taking photos and did not want to have the camera actually die on me, so I swapped the battery at that point.

So, I guess this post is more of just a notice that, especially if you're using third party batteries, if you are constantly topping off your battery after only one or two hundred photos, the 5D4 seems to get very confused about how much battery is truly left, and may cause needless worry about a quickly draining battery. Like I said, I don't recall this happening when using similar batteries in similar ways in the 5D3.

Jim Saunders · Mar 6, 2017

So I don't have a PC cable to check for myself, but does anyone know if a 600 or similar set as master, will act as master as per normal (i.e. firing all the slaves) if it (the master) is triggered through its PC port?

Jim

MrFotoFool · Mar 6, 2017

I have not posted for a few weeks, but I just went to add a new photo to a thread I started. When I click the bottom "attachments and other options" it gives the four standard buttons (follow thread, preview, etc). However the area below this where you add a photo is missing. I tried two different threads and same thing. I tried it in Internet Explorer and Mozilla Firefox - same thing. WHAT IS HAPPENING?

LSeries · Mar 6, 2017

How is the AF performance of 80D compared to that of 70D and 7D2 especially in macro photography? I just played with my EF 100mm f/2.8L (+ 25mm extension tube) and noticed that the AF of 70D was complete crap compared to 7D2. Too few AF points and options, inconsistent, went back and forth...7D2 was much faster, consistent, smooth and silent and easier to frame. But how does the 80D compare? I'm consider it to replace my 70D, but if it cannot match 7D2 at all I think I'll get another 7D2

The 70D has done well in wildlife photography with longer lenses, but this macro experiment was disappointing.

Glenn Bartley · Mar 6, 2017

I just love this species. I finally got to photograph them last year on my Colombia trip for the first time. Then this year on my workshop we had an insane encounter with a pair of these guys. So loud. So big. So awesome!!!

Camera Model: Canon EOS 7D Mark II
Shutter speed: 1/400 sec
Aperture: 5.6
ISO: 800
Lens: EF600mm f/4L IS II USM +1.4x III

ahsanford · Mar 6, 2017

TDP continues it's testing and reviews of Sony gear:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sony-FE-24-70mm-f-2.8-GM-Lens.aspx

With this lens, the A7R II's IBIS was good for 3-4 stops of image stabilization in his hands. Impressive.

Less impressive: the lack of a distance scale and only focus by wire for $2,200.

Of note is a telling passage of what happens when 'keep it small' mirrorless platform and the inevitable request for pro glass gets married together:

"A lens of this weight requires a good grip on the camera. The a7R II is made to be compact and, while it has a decent grip, there is not quite enough room for my medium-sized hand's fingers to fit between the camera and the lens. At the edge of the first diameter increase, the lens presses quite firmly into the first joint of my middle and ring fingers. Of course, the lens is not soft and the grip is not comfortable. The pressure is lessened if the lens is hanging downward from a loose grip or if I rotate my grip away from the lens, but ... that does not give me the grip assurance I would like to have."

- A

Dylan777 · Mar 6, 2017

~~Describe in~~ Your own definition of fast prime lenses. How and when do you use it.

Share a photo or two to show your points

Ladislav · Mar 6, 2017

Is there any guidance on what are "extreme" shift values on 17 TS-E L and 24 TS-E L Mk II lenses? Older TS lenses had red part of shift and tilt range showing "extreme" values where image quality was worse. Are shift values over 0.6cm still considered extreme? I'm trying to figure out if behavior I see is expected.

Background:
I have 24mm lens less than year and while I noticed that image quality becomes worse as the picture shifts more off center, it was still pretty good even when doing +1 cm shifts. I recently bought used 17mm and that one seems to be much more sensitive to extreme shifts - possibly due to front element. I did some hand held architecture photos with max +1.2cm shifts and all went directly to the bin. While lower part of the picture was very sharp, the upper part was visibly soft even without zooming image on monitor. Photos with less extreme shifts around +0.6cm were fine. I was disappointed.

I need to do more testing. Yesterday I tried taking pictures of our house on tripod with doing 2mm steps and comparing results but it really didn't provide much help.

Canon Rumors · Mar 6, 2017

HTML:

<p>An email has gone out to CPS members in Europe letting them know of certain cameras, lenses and accessories have been removed from the CPS qualification list and that they are no longer serviceable. We expect to see this from other CPS programs around the globe.</p>
<blockquote><p>As a product reaches the end of its serviceable lifetime, Canon Europe can no longer guarantee that repairs will be possible due to the supply of spare parts.</p></blockquote>
<p><strong>These products have reached the end of their service period and will no longer be eligible for CPS:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>EOS 50D</li>
<li>EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM</li>
<li>EF 400mm f/2.8L IS USM</li>
<li>Extender EF1.4x II</li>
<li>Extender EF2x II</li>
<li>Battery Grip BG-E2</li>
</ul>
<p><em>thanks Robert</em></p>
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Canon Rumors · Mar 6, 2017

HTML:

<p>We’re told to expect a firmware update for the EOS 5D Mark IV some time in the next month. The new firmware will apparently fix a few bugs and “add at least one new feature”. We have been told previously that there would be a “major firmware update” for the EOS 5D Mark IV, but there has been no timetable on that.</p>
<p>For now, I’d expect a minor update with some bug fixes and tweaks and hopefully we’ll get some more information about a major update.</p>
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Andrew Davies Photography · Mar 6, 2017

First time I have come across this but Canon Pro Services sent out this email today:

Please be informed the following products have been removed from CPS membership qualification as they are no longer serviceable.

EOS 50D

EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

EF 400mm f/2.8L IS USM

Please be sure to keep your CPS account updated with all your current kit to keep your membership current and enable quick repair processing

.................................

Does this mean the 70-200 2.8IS can no longer be serviced ? seems odd

Wedding Photographer North East & Yorkshire Northumberland & Wedding Photographer Cumbria

AJ · Mar 5, 2017

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=1086&Camera=453&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=745&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

danski0224 · Mar 5, 2017

_SDI0065.1.jpg by DFT Images, on Flickr

haggie · Mar 5, 2017

Now the weather is getting a bit better, I have been playing with my EOS 80D and my 100-400 a get a better for the settings for the 80D's AF system with subjects changing speed and direction like aircraft and birds.

I am making progress, but there is one variable I do not understand.
Or better: I do not see any difference between the settings.

In the C.Fn II -11 Initial AF Point, AI Servo AF there are two possible settings in addition to 0: Auto:
Initial AF pt selected and Manual AF pt.

I find the text in the EOS 80D's Manual lacking clarity. Or it may simply be too brief.
And when I try the 2 different settings, I do not see any difference in behavior.

Of course, I am probably not complete in my experiments, because there MUST be a difference.......
Can anybody help me: what is the difference between these 2 settings and when is it relevant?

Valvebounce · Mar 5, 2017

Hi Folks.
With reference to this post,
Re: WARNING - THE DISASTER THAT IS YONGNUO 600EX - (FIRST VERSION)
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=31858.0
I was wondering if anyone had any issues with their YN600EX flashes, and if you consider these issues acceptable for the money saved over genuine Canon items or are they just unacceptable at any price?

Cheers, Graham.

Maximilian · Mar 4, 2017

Canon Germany is celebrating the 30th anniversary of the EOS system with a
camera cash back promotion "alt gegen neu" (new for old) and a lens cash back.

The promotions start from March 1st (retroactive from February 1st) and lasts until April 30th.
You can get up to 250 € cash back or 300 € conversion bonus.

For more details, terms and conditions and included products see here:
http://www.canon.de/for_home/promotions/

Enjoy your GAS

Rupp1 · Mar 4, 2017

The Canon drop in filters that come with their super-telefoto lenses come with a clear insert. As far as I can tell (I don't want to break anything), the clear material is not removable. Doesn't having another substance to pass through harm the quality of the pictures? Is the clear glass removable? If I'm not using the circular polarizing filter, do I want to use a drop in for screw in filters, but without a filter?

It seems to be that the clear material is just one more thing that can gather dirt? Can someone help me out on this?

Thanks.

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 4, 2017

You can embed video by pasting a link into your post.

Valvebounce · Mar 3, 2017

Hi Folks.
I have been looking in to getting a pair of second hand Canon 600EX-RT flashes and so far I can't find any that meet the criteria of having all the original items included at a sensible price so the Yongnuo came to mind.
I have read both of the manuals and I see that the YN-E3-RT has the port for the camera remote cable N3 and mentions that it can trigger the camera, either via the hot shoe for newer cameras or via the port with the N3 cable for older cameras, what I cannot find is any mention in the YN600EX-RT manual that it can be used to trigger the YN-E3-RT (or another YN600EX-RT when used as a master)?
I am now thinking that this feature might only work when the genuine canon 600EX-RT flashes are used in conjunction with the YN-E3-RT.
So the question is, can anybody tell me if the Yongnuo YN600EX-RT and YN-E3-RT (or another YN600EX-RT when used as a master) combination can do the remote camera trigger trick?
Did I just miss the section explaining it,

did I miss it due to translation losses, ??? or does Yongnuo call this function by a different name in the YN600EX-RT manual from the naming in the YN-E3-RT manual. :

Yes I understand that they may overheat quicker than Canon units, or not last as long, but I'm unlikely to earn money from them and they are probably more reliable at getting the shot than I am, plus 2 flashes and the E3 unit are less than half the cost of 1 new canon 600EX!

Thanks in advance for any help or clarification anyone can offer.

Cheers, Graham.

Canon Rumors · Mar 3, 2017

HTML:

Joey at Lensrentals.com has written an article on how to use lens adaptors properly. There are a lot of photographers out there with a mirrorless system to compliment their DSLRs, and it’s nice to be able to use lenses on either system whenever possible.</p>
<p><strong>From Lensrentals.com</strong></p>
<blockquote><p>Mirrorless cameras have become incredibly popular these days, saving a lot of users from the size and weight of bigger SLR systems out there. As consumers make that switch, they often want to bring their current lenses along for the ride. Thanks to shorter flange distances, this is physically possible, but in practice, it’s not as simple. Because of that, it felt necessary to explain the differences, the challenges, and what you might not know when going into a new system when a handful of adapters. Let’s break down the most popular options out there that we carry.</p>
<p>To start, we’re mainly talking about the following three camera systems that make adapting easier than the others: Sony E/FE mount, Micro 4/3s (Olympus and Panasonic), and Fuji X mount. Lenses from Canon, Nikon, Leica, and Sony’s SLT lineup, as well as third party lenses in those mounts, are all able to be adapted, with some degree of success. <a href="https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/03/mixing-camera-systems-our-guide-on-how-to-use-adapters-properly/">Read the entire article</a></p></blockquote>
<p><strong><a href="https://bhpho.to/2mBuiNh">The entire metabones lineup at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
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