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canon 5D mark iii help please upgrading from a 60D or wait for the Mark IV

After a little advice please ☺ I am looking at the canon 5D mark iii. Whats your thoughts & opinions is it really worth the leap? (Im upgrading from a 60D) Also with the mark IV being rumored to he released later this year would I be better off waiting a little longer for the price to come down? Or do you owners of a mark iii love the camera? ☺ I'm skeptical due to horror stories I've heard of them spending more time in repairs then being used...

If it's any help I'm. Using these lenses and would like to get most out of them. I'm mainly taking photos of kids & birth photography

Canon 50mm 1.4
Canon 24-70 f2.8L ii
Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC

Occasionally but rarely I use tamron 18-200

Advice - what to take to Europe

Hi All,

I am a hobbyist photographer who has been getting back into photography over the last 3 years. I will be going on a holiday to Europe with approx. 6 days in London and 6 days in Paris. T24here will also be short stop overs in Dubai and the Maldives when going to and from Europe. The time in Europe will be spent pretty much exclusively in London and Paris - there may be a single day trip to the country - but consider that all my time will be spent in the cities.

Currently my kit consists of a 6D body, 16-35 F4 L, 24-105 F4 L, 70 - 300 L, 50 1.8 and 85 1.8. I am definitely going to take the 24-105 and the 16-35, but I am wondering if I will use the 70-300 or will I be lugging it around the world and not using it because everything in London and Paris will be close and crammed in, negating the need for longer focal lengths. I am also considering taking the 85 1.8 for some wide open portraits, but once again I am not sure whether it is worth taking it. Also I will be purchasing a Gorillapod SLR Zoom to take with me.

I will be travelling with the wife, who can't understand why it can take longer than 15 seconds to take a photo, and why would you bother walking around to find another angle. So I am normally under time pressure which also means that constantly swapping lenses just ends up annoying the wife, which in turn end up annoying me. But I am sure a lot of you can understand that situation !!!

I will be taking standard tourist type photos, and expect to have the 24-105 on the camera probably 80% of the time.

So for those of you who have experience visiting and photographing in London and Paris - would you recommend that I take the 70-300 L and / or the 85 1.8 or should I just stick with the 16-35 and 24-105 and travel lighter?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Sigma 24-105 f/4 DG OS Discontinued

HTML:
<p><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/11/sigma-24-105-f4-dg-os-art-production-on-hold/" target="_blank">We posted back in the fall that Sigma had halted production indefinitely of the relatively new 24-105 f/4 DG OS lens</a>. We’re now told that the lens is in fact discontinued and production has been halted forever.</p>
<p>There was no word as to why it was discontinued, I can only assume the market for a 24-105 on the Canon side is extremely saturated and that the Sigma wasn’t a big enough leap forward in terms of optical quality to purchase over the “kit” lens from Canon. There’s also a possibility the cost of production was too high to keep the price competitive.</p>
<p>We’re still waiting on an official release about this from Sigma.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
<p> </p>

RØDE Launches Stunning Wireless System, New Shotgun Mics

HTML:
<p><strong>From RØDE

</strong>RØDELink represents the next generation of digital wireless systems. Using a series II 2.4GHz digital transmission with 128-bit encryption, it is able to constantly monitor and hop between frequencies to maintain the strongest possible signal level at a range of up to 100 metres (over 100 yards). The RØDELink Filmmaker Kit provides everything you need to start shooting video wirelessly, including a receiver, transmitter and broadcast-grade lavalier microphone. The receiver (RX-CAM) features an OLED display with information on level, battery status (receiver and transmitter), mute and channel selection. The unit can be mounted on a standard camera shoe mount, 3/8″ thread or belt-clip, and for added versatility the shoe mount can be located in one of two positions. The lightweight transmitter (TX-BELT) can be fitted to a belt or clothing and features a locking thread to ensure the microphone connection is as secure as possible. RØDE’s omnidirectional Lavalier microphone is included in the kit to provide the highest possible audio reproduction quality.</p>
<ul>
<li>Series II, 2.4GHz digital transmission</li>
<li>128-bit encryption</li>
<li>Up to 100 metres range</li>
<li>OLED display (on receiver)</li>
<li>One button pairing</li>
<li>Three level gain control</li>
<li>AA battery or USB powered</li>
<li>Includes RØDE’s broadcast Lavalier microphone</li>
</ul>
<p>There’s more coverage on these new products at: <a href="http://blog.planet5d.com/2015/01/rode-stuns-filmmakers-launches-stunning-wireless-system-new-shotgun-mics/" target="_blank">Planet5D</a> | <a href="http://www.rodemic.com/wireless/filmmaker" target="_blank">RØDE</a></p>
<p><strong>Preorder the new products from B&H Photo</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1115088-REG/rode_rodntg4_ntg4_shotgun_microphone_with.html/BI/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Rode NTG4 Shotgun Microphone with Digital Switches</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1115089-REG/rode_rodntg4plus_ntg4_shotgun_microphone_with.html/BI/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Rode NTG4+ Shotgun Microphone with Digital Switches and Built-In Rechargeable Battery</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1115091-REG/rode_rodlnk_fm_rodelink_wireless_filmmaker_kit.html/BI/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">RodeLink Wireless Filmmaker Kit</a></li>
</ul>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Auto Focus MicroAdjust--Why the Stigma?

Lately I've seen more posts than ever here, and on retailers' review sections, stating that a lens was sent back because it needed AFMA. :o

Personally, I have several L lenses and a Sigma 35mm Art. Each one benefitted from some Microadjustment, from +/- 3 all the way up to +/- 13, and all these lenses perform great on my 5DIII, phenomenally better, in fact, than on my old 60D which I bought before knowing about AFMA.

I've thought that AFMA is one of the great features of bodies that have it.

So why the increasing shunning of a lens that needs fine-tuning to work its best with a body?

Seriously, look at some of the recent threads about newer lenses and the claims that just the need for AFMA meant the lens got shipped back.

Says it all

From my local professional dealership.

Both described as "mint -", which means basically brand new.

Shows how much the Market cares about another stop or so of DR. Says it all really. Personally I'd be annoyed if my chosen brand of asset was depreciating so much faster than its other equal.

Incidentally it is very rare for them to get a used 5DIII in. This is only the second I have ever seen them get.

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canon 85mm f1.2 II front element issue

Hello everyone, I am really new to photography,,,have just bought myself a camera lens from second hand shop, it is a canon 85mm f1.2 II, it looks quit clean and work same as the other lens( really don't know what to check in order to make sure it works right), the only thing that I just notice is the "grove" on top of the front element has scratches, does it mean the lens has been opened by someone, or it could on there when it came out of the factory.
Should I get it returned or just don't worry about it.
Does any third party company can manufacture the element for this lens other than canon?
Thanks for all the advise.

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Inconsistent reviewing of lenses

We read reviews and draw our own conclusions, and generally have a feel for the sites that are reliable. This review of the 100-400mm II, however, takes the cake for contradicting itself.

http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews

Tamron 150-600
150mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are excellent stopped-down at f/8 through to f/16
250mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are excellent stopped-down at f/8 through to f/22
450mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are excellent stopped-down at f/8 through to f/22
600mm
Both centre and edges aren't critically sharp until you stop-down to f/11, which means that you should only use the 600mm focal length sparingly if sharpness is your number one priority.

Summary:
Score for IQ 4.5/5

Sigma 150-600
150mm
Centre and edge sharpness are commendably good wide-open at f/5, and remain high through from f/5.6 to f/16
300mm
Centre and edge sharpness are commendably good wide-open at f/5.6, and remain high through from f/8 to f/16
400mm
Centre sharpness is commendably good wide-open at f/6.3, and both the centre and the edge remain high through from f/8 to f/16
500mm
Centre sharpness is commendably good wide-open at f/6.3, and both the centre and the edge remain high through from f/8 to f/16.
600mm
Centre sharpness is commendably good wide-open at f/6.3, and both the centre and the edge remain high through from f/8 to f/16.

Summary:
Score for IQ 5/5

Canon 100-400 II

100mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are both excellent wide open at f/4.5, and outstanding between f/5.6 and f/11.
200mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are both excellent wide open at f/4.5, and outstanding between f/5.6 and f/22.
300mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are OK wide open at f/5, and outstanding between f/8 and f/16.
400mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are OK wide open at f/5.6, and outstanding between f/8 and f/16.

Summary
Score for IQ 4.5/5

Firstly, the 100-400 beats the other two in his own descriptions and yet gets rated lower than the Sigma and the same as the Tamron. Secondly, photozone, which actually measures the sharpness quantitatively, has the centre sharpness at 300mm close to the top of the chart, and wide open is sharper at f/5.6 than f/8 for 200-400mm.
http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/896-canon100400f4556is2?start=1

Very odd comments: “While you could use it (100-400) on a smaller APS-C body for a 160-640mm equivalent angle of view, it won't balance very well at all - as demonstrated by the images below, it's a much better match for a professional-grade full-frame camera like the 5D Mark III”.
an excellent telephoto zoom lens for Canon full-frame DSLR owners

But, the APS-C 7D II is only a couple of mm smaller in 2 of the dimensions and larger in the 3rd, and weighs 910g versus 950g for the 5D III. I can’t tell any balance difference between the lens on the 5D III and 7D II. The Tamron and especially the Sigma are far more unbalanced

Canon EOS Rebel 750D Spec List [CR1]

HTML:
<p>A spec list we were given has the upper end Rebel split into two different cameras, a 750D and a 760D. The North American naming was not given for the cameras. We expect an announcement for a new Rebel(s) to come in the next  few weeks.</p>
<p>The biggest thing I notice in this specification list is the 24.2mp image sensor. It has been assumed by most that any new Rebel would have the 20.2mp sensor from the EOS 70D.</p>
<p><strong>Canon Rebel 750D/760D Specifications</strong></p>
<ul>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Full HD movies, MP4 format, HDR movie, automatic shooting modes (EOS 750D )</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">24.2MP sensor and Canon’s DIGIC 6 image processor</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">ISO 100-12,800 range </span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Flicker Detection technology</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Five frames per second continuous shooting mode</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">19 cross-type AF point system </span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Hybrid CMOS AF III </span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Rear Quick Control Dial (EOS 760D )</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Creative movie modes (EOS 760D )</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Wi-Fi and NFC</span></li>
</ul>
<p>This information comes from an unknown source and I’m hoping for some clarification on the model split if it is indeed true. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of difference between the 2 models. Please notice the [CR1] rating on this post, and treat it accordingly.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Image Stabilizer on 70-200 2.8 for Basketball

I know the rule is if you're using a high shutter speed you don't need IS, but I'm wondering if basketball photographers are generally using IS on the 70-200 2.8?

I used to always have it in mode 2 but this season I've tried using it without IS on. During a game, I'll turn it off and on to experiment but the results have been really inconclusive. Sometimes I'm getting an amazingly razor sharp image with it on where you can see individual eyelashes at 100%, other times I'm getting exactly what I'd get if it were off -- slightly burred at 100% but certainly still sharp.

I'm just wondering if the guys shooting pro games without strobes generally have IS on or if. Is there any downside to just keeping it on and on mode 2? I should mention this is with the 1DX. My usual settings are 1/800, 2.8, ISO somewhere between 4000-8000.

85mm 1.8 vs other 85mm Primes for portraits

At the top of the canon Rumors homepage is a link to the review for the Canon 85mm 1.8. I read through it, and also through the discussion thread that followed. This topic really got under a lot of peoples skin. People generally disagreed with some part of the review. A lot of people bashed the 1.8, and a lot bashed the 1.2L. I think I have a pretty good relationship with both lenses and a lot of the bashing is unnecessary.
So why am I bringing this up now? In the discussion of the review, someone even called the entire 85mm 1.8 review irrelevant because the lens was so old. The reason is that this lens is still very relevant. in certain circumstances it is an almost perfect 85mm prime. Why would this be? Read on.

First off when comparing the two lenses, they really both are capable of similar things. Creamy bokeh, Sharp images, good contrast, 85mm focal length. So what is the difference that some people would pay so much for the 85mm 1.2L? There are perfectly good reasons for some people.
Pros for 85mm 1.2L:
[list type=decimal]
[*]Red Ring Prestige
The impressive look of the Glass Canon ball. Even if you don't know what the red ring means, that huge chunk of glass is quite striking.
the look of the large aperture. It creates unique looking images wide open. It just does.
It is f1.2. and has lower light abilities. This can be very important.
Build Quality
[*]
[/list]
If you need or want any of these attributes of the 85 1.2L then have at it. It is a great lens. If I had the money, I would own it instead of rent it when I need it.

So after that, why would you want to have the 85mm 1.8.
The attributes of the 85 1.8 that make it desirable:
weight, it is insignificant when holding it for long periods of time.
The Auto Focus is very quick.
The Auto Focus accuracy, for me this lens has one of the highest keeper rates compared to all of the lenses I have ever used.
Cost, It is relatively inexpensive. I picked mine up used for $300.

So related to Portraits, I need to take a lot of portraits. I will shoot 3-5 photos of up to 150 people in one day. It is not possible with the 85 1.2L. I would miss a lot of shots, and lifting that weight would kill me. My keeper rate with the 1.8 is above 95%. I shoot at 5.6, and use studio lighting. If I was shooting one or two portrait sessions a day, I might consider the 1.2L, because it has a more interesting look when needed. but for what I do, I can't see carrying the extra weight and expense of the L.

What do you think? Do third party options even come into the picture at this level of value?

SIGMA f1.4 85mm: Some experiences

1.4 85mm is a lens format I love since years. In my analog times I had the Zeiss Planar 1.4 85mm (I think I bought it somewhere in 1985 or 86. I adapted it until I got my 1.4 85mm Sigma lens. And the Sigma is a great performer.

I first published some shots in my blog and updated the blog entry recently

http://bit.ly/1zMZp8Y

What is missing are shots with the 7D MkII... Which is going to come

How is your experience with this lens...

35 years of Canon 35mm

In 1976 I got the AE-1 with the FD 50mm f/1.8 and pretty soon afterwards I got the FD 35mm f/2.0 SSC.
Ever since, I had the 35mm on a Nikon FE3, on an Olympus OM-2n and now, finally on the EOS 5D III.
Of course, I had to get the 35 mm f 1.4 L.
Everybody knows that it is an old construction, that there is an IS version f/2.0 out and the Sigma ART lense is just so much better in all respects. Only that it is not a Canon L

I got mine finally one year ago and have not been using it much because the EF 24-70mm f/2.8 is so handy and it is always in the bag etc. And then I went shooting with it. It is one hell of a lense to fool around with in a crowd. It is fast, it is discreet, it opens up to 1.4 and the quality at 2.0 is, like, excellent. Bref, I love it.

I am just so much at home with this anachronic lense. Probably, I will get the new version of the 24-70 mm zoom but now, having shot with the 35mm f/1.4 I am in no hurry. In my bag, I have the 100mm F/2.0 for portraits and it is just about 'good enough'. If I need Magic I take the 85mm F/1.2 L.
It feels so good being able to open up and getting the focus on the spot. F the color balance, people are so incompetent when they select the light sources for a ballroom that I have to set the WB here and there and there again in Lightroom.

Yeah, me reviewing the Canon FE 35mm f/1.4 L sounds like 'yess'.
With an L on it. I cannot be objective ( haha, get it, a pun!) about it. It is my lense. My three lense set is this, the dust pump and the 100mm f/2.0. Arigatoo, Canon-San.

Fast lenses at a crossroads?

I'm very sad to hear that Canon's new 11-24mm won't be a fast lens, and very concerned about the direction this suggests.

There are, I believe several strong reasons Canon is stepping back from fast lenses, reasons that would not have mattered as much before the omnipresence of smartphones with decent cameras.

First, the baby-boomer retirees who are big into photography join workshops and camera clubs where fast lenses are simply not seen as especially important. Why? Because very, very few of those type of hobbyists take pictures of people. They love landscapes and found still lifes and birds. And, though they have money, the economy scares them, they don't get anything from CD's anymore, so they save where they can. Why buy a 24-70mm 2.8 when the 24-105mm 4 costs half? Why buy anything in 2.8 when something "just a stop" slower costs less. And, finally for the babyboomers, weight is a legitimate issue, but they will obsess over saving a few ounces.

Then there is the learning curve for fast lenses. Not only is focus tricky below f/2, but effectively choosing how shallow to go takes a lot of trial and experience. I can tell from the great work on your website, you know that just having shallow DoF doesn't make magic; in fact, blurred out jaw-lines and other features, including hands, forearms, etc., can just look awful if overdone or with the wrong perspective. So people who do spend are often disappointed.

As for the user experience, for one example, the ergonomics of the 85mm 1.2 are challenging for many, as is the weird and pokey AF system. Once one is competent with this lens, it is magical, but otherwise, a real puzzle for enthusiasts who think it's all about the gear.

Canon seems scared and uncertain. They go for the fat middle of the remaining DSLR market. News agencies aren't spending for photojournalism much anymore, and the small local newspapers across the USA are nearing extinction. Small time portrait and wedding photographers with business sense have a very hard time justifying spending on fast L primes.

Please, Canon, remember how important fast lenses are for clearly elevating the dslr over smartphones.

Body + lens for design office

Hey,

I've been out of the camera gear game for a while so I need some suggestions. I work in a graphic design office and we need to get an office camera that'll work decently most things we'll need it for. I plan on getting a Yongnuo speed light (the one comparable to Canon's 500-series).

I always recommend a crop body and nifty 50 to beginners for the best quality to price ratio, but I need a wider angle for 90% of what this will be used for. Product shots and food shots, mostly.. some portraits.

The budget isn't necessarily tight, but I think I can rule out a full frame and $1000+ lenses. My guess up front is maybe a Rebel with a 24 or 28 would work. IS would help since it will all be handheld, and a lot of handheld aerial shots, but not 100% necessary.

I realize there is not one ideal answer so don't chew me out about this. Not expecting to get ideal results—I just want to weight some options.

Canon EOS-1D C Price Drops Coming to North America

HTML:
<p>After <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2015/01/the-canon-eos-1d-c-coming-down-in-price-again/" target="_blank">the report that the Canon EOS-1D C had officially dropped in price in Hong Kong</a>, we’ve been asked a few times if the same is going to happen in North America and Europe.</p>
<p>We’re told that something on pricing will happen on February 1, 2015 in the United States, there was no word from elsewhere around the globe. We weren’t told what the drop in price would be, but to “hold off buying a 1D-C until at least February 1, 2015″.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Why I love the 200mm f2.0 prime

So I'm not a pro, not by a long stretch. But some pros convinced me to get the 200mm f2.0 and they were right.

http://www.mcvoy.com/lm/daryn/index.html

I've seen much better pictures from that lens by people better than me, I'm just stoked that a non-pro like me could get those pics. It's worth
the price. I've got a lot of Canon glass, this one is special and gets used a lot.

The Canon EF 50mm f/1.0L

HTML:
<div id="attachment_18377" style="width: 441px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/2015-01-19-13.22.201.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-18377"><img class="wp-image-18377 size-medium" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/2015-01-19-13.22.201-431x575.jpg" alt="Canon EF 50mm f/1.0L" width="431" height="575" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Canon EF 50mm f/1.0L</p></div>
<p>I finally own the Canon EF 50mm f/1.0L lens. It’s a lens I have wanted for a long time, but I had a hard time justifying the investment required to own a lens that is less than perfect. It’s not the sharpest, it doesn’t autofocus all that quickly and Canon no longer services it, yet I still wanted to own one because it’s so unique and produces a wonderful image in the right circumstances.</p>
<p>This lens was introduced in 1989 and has since gone up significantly in value. You can see these lens retail for more than $4000 on the used market.</p>
<p><strong>Description

</strong><em>“An ultra-fast standard lens with the largest aperture for SLR lenses in the world at the time. Two large-diameter ground and polished glass aspherical lens elements (3rd & 8th) provide high-contrast with low-flare image quality even at maximum aperture. Curvature of field is minimized through use of four high-refraction glass elements. Spherical aberration and curvature of field at close focusing distance are minimized by floating mechanism. A ring USM (Ultrasonic Motor) achieves silent, high-speed AF and full-time manual focusing.” <a href="http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/lens/ef/data/standard/ef_50_10l_usm.html" target="_blank">Read more at the Canon Museum</a></em><strong>

</strong></p>
<p>This is a lens that still gets talked about a lot. Likely because it’s so unique and there’s something about that nice and clean f/1.0 number and the dreamy bokeh it produces. I am going to try and do a review of the lens for fun, but it will require me actually getting good images with it. No brick walls or cats (I don’t have cat)!</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

On Camera Flash Diffusers For Fill

Do you diffuse your flash when using it on camera for fill?

I rarely shoot with on camera flash and would mostly do so for fill. I'm currently using two different DIY foam diffusers (pictured below). The short one is used frequently off camera to bounce light off ceilings and walls. The bigger one gets very little use and was designed for those scenarios when white-ish ceilings and walls aren't available (outdoors or when ceilings are too dark of too high). Actually, I don't remember when I last used it.

Anyway, I'm discovering the some group shots, such as basketball team photos after a game, might benefit from a little fill.

I do have the RoundFlash that I've used on occasion. It's a great ring light, but can get awkward at events when speed is important.

With the introduction of the Fstoppers Flash Disc, I have become more intrigued with alternatives. Still, when subjects are 7-10 feet away (which is common for me), I wonder about their usefulness when there is nothing around to bounce the flash.

What do you use -- if anything?

Forgot to post the photos. And I posted two of the same photo -- oops.

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Herringbone camera strap.

This strap looks very cool. It also stabilizes the camera while you are shooting and keeps it from knocking around when you are not. It does not get in the picture even when shooting with the 14mm lens. It costs 35 dollars delivery and the Arca compatible plate included. One of the better gadgets I've got. Strong recommendation. Look for Herringbone on eBay.
My friend saw mine and he wanted one also so I ordered another one.

$(KGrHqF,!mEFGL9VlVYRBRmYh+yVlw~~60_12.JPG

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