Friends.
I get my Sigma 150-600 sports lens after two days. I will like to test it and put up a report.
Is there anything specific you would like to be tested? I will test it on the 1dx. Is that fair (as many will not use it on 1dx) or I should test it on 5d3? The camera would not change the IQ as such only the AF speed I am assuming.
Thx

Can anyone with a good understanding of MTF charts and actual field experience share how the three 24-70mm lenses compares to each other in terms of distortion (especially at wide end)? I have been using the 24-70mm f2.8L I for more than 4 years but sometimes borders sharpness and distortion particularly at the wide end annoy me so, I would like to know if the 24-70mm f/2.8L II or the 24-70mm f4L IS offer more controlled distortion.

Most appreciated!

A few weeks ago I picked up a Canon 50mm 1.2 L from another local photographer at a decent price, $1050. The lens appears to be in good condition and I'm using it on my 5D3.

I intend to use this lens for portraiture at about 4-6 feet, with the aperture wide open. Since this will require very accurate focus, I conducted some of my usual autofocus tests in that distance range using the various autofocus points in the viewfinder of the 5D3. All tests were done wide open, so focus shift with aperture changes would not be an issue.

The center focus point works great with no AFMA needed. Accuracy is within one inch at 5 feet and very repeatable!

Unfortunately, the peripheral focus points tend to front focus. The farthest point to the right will front focus by about 4-5 inches. The top one, about 3-4 inches. The left and bottom points front focus by about two inches. I use that farthest right point a lot since I hold the camera vertically and place that point on the subject's eye. You only have about a two inch depth of field at 5 feet, at F/1.2.

As a control, I ran the same tests with my Canon 85mm 1.8 and all points were within one inch. (Love that lens.)

I will probably send the L lens in to Canon for calibration. I'm planning to call on Monday and ask if I should also send the body with it.

Anyone run into this before or have an idea what the problem is? Anything I can do to help Canon diagnose and correct the problem?

Thanks!

So I've had my 6D going on 2 years now about a month and a half back the farthest right AF point stopped working. Its tries to focus but hunts for a really long time. I have tried several other lenses and all the other points are pretty snapy but not this far right point. I have tried cleaning the contacts and updating to the newest firmware with no luck. I'm thinking I'm going to have to send it into canon for service unless I need to clean dust off the sensor or something?

Since I bought my 1DX in June of this year I've had to send it in to Canon a total of five times. Every time I send the camera in, Canon Canada CPS (platinum member) sends it back with more problems than it fixes.

This latest round of problems are threefold:

1) There is now dust on the inside of my viewfinder eyepiece that was not there before. I sent the camera in for my Transmissive LCD being out of alignment with my focus points. They obviously didn't clean anything before putting it back together.

2) They had removed the rubber hand grip for the vertical/portrait orientation, and they obviously contaminated the adhesive of the grip because it no longer sits down completely and will most likely start peeling the first time I get the camera wet or it goes from cold to hot and condensation gets in there.

3) My main concern. Also near the vertical/portrait shutter they've taken apart the body. Right next to the shutter button the body splits into three pieces, with a small thin metal piece in between the two main body panels. I had a piece of 3M invisible shield tape running overtop of all three panels to protect against knocks and scratches when I'm on the ground or rest the camera on something. The Canon technician must have lifted the piece of invisible shield to get into the camera, but when he put everything back together he actually closed the camera up with the portion of tape he peeled up hanging in-between the body panels. I actually didn't notice this for close to a month after getting the camera back and I've since pulled the tape out. There's now a slight lip where the body panels do not fit completely flush anymore.

My concern is that since there is this lip between the body panel pieces, is there a chance the camera is not properly weather sealed?

I loathe to send the camera back to Canon at this point. I'm trying to learn whether this is something I can live with and not worry about when I use the camera as it was intended to be used.

I'm attaching some pictures of the raised lip.

This MTF for this new lens is available over at Sony Rumors:

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/tokina-sp-15-30mm-mtf-charts/

link says Tokina, but its really Tamron. The claim is that the new Tamron MTF bests the Nikon 14-24. Looking at the comparison, I would say pretty similar to each other, but that is still very good (maybe a little better on the wide end). The U.S. prices are not yet available and estimated to be in $1500. range which is a good deal less than the Nikon price. So, UWA lens choices are becoming much better. The lens will be available in Canon EF mount.

For those interested, I just stumbled upon this on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gG7KsdGeomQ

The lens is huge! Looks great can't wait to see real world reviews and test.

I'm not looking to reinvent the wheel (or the cliche)... I just want to confirm that I'm capable of doing the grab bag of photography. I've decided the 70-200 stays home... though it would be nice at the zoo. What are we doing in NYC... killing time while the wife works... but it is a short trip... so I'm sure I will receive an incomplete on the test... but hopefully a passing grade.

So here's the list... which undoubtedly will be added to.

I know the 24-105 isn't the strongest lens... but it has made the cut as has my 85mm f/1.2L mkii, 5D mkiii, and a 600 ex-rt (though I'm not sure I'll take the st-e3-rt).

1. Long exposure of Time Square (maybe a minute if I can swing it...) in the day using 3x neutral density filter and f/16 give or take... see how many people will just disappear.
2. Long exposure of Time Square (maybe a minute if I can swing it...) at night, using 3x neutral density filter and f/8 give or take... see how many people will just disappear.
3. Panning shot of cab.
4. Panning shot of bike rider.
5. Zoo photos
a. Monkey
b. Penguin
c. Polar Bear
d. Bird
e. Snake
f. Miscellaneous animals
6. Wide angle photo of tall building
7. Photo of Rockefeller Christmas Tree
8. Photo of Family in front of Rockefeller Christmas Tree using 2nd curtain flash.
9. Photo of my breakfast.
10. Photos @ B&H testing lenses...
a. 50mm F/1.2L
b. 200mm f/2L
c. 400mm f/2.8L
d. 8-15mm fisheye L
e. Sigma 50 Art
11. Wide angle photo of sexy lady (preferably) or of a cab moving across the frame and then stitch the images together so there is a presumptive progression of time.
12. Night-time 2nd curtain panning photo of something... maybe another sexy lady.

Suggestions are welcome... but keep in mind that I will have a wife and two kids in tow most of the time I'm there... so there's that.

13. If I go into a tall building during the day... a panoramic of the city... preferably 360... but I'm not going to hold my breath on that... not with a 1.5 year old demanding my attention.

Hello guys and gals.

In last couple of weeks I was trying to decide which camera to buy. 6D or 5D Mark III.

My primary job is filmmaking (music videos, short movies, documentary, webisodes, etc.).

It's easy to say, let's go and buy Mark III, but at this very moment I need to think about price and all. In a way, is it really good to put that amount of money (difference is around 1300$) in Mark III or maybe 6D is just enough for the most of work I will do.

And for how long I can be satisfied with those cameras? (in a way, I could work with those bodies in next 3-5 years...)

Cheers!

I've hit roughly 70,000 clicks on my 1dx and I'm wondering if it's about time to send it in for a clean and check? Is there a general recommendation/rule that I should be following?

I've recently started to notice my keeper rate is significantly down (shooting sports) and I'm wondering if a clean and check would help.

Thanks in advance for your help and advice!

north

I had my 50 1.4 in a soft canon bag and sadly dropped it on concrete at a gig the other night. upon looking at it everything looked Ok, but I could hear a little movement inside. I put it on my camera (6D) and got a couple of shots that seem like the glass inside is Ok but I could get no AF and no MF would work either. It's stuck at the infinity side of the focus ring. I'm assuming the impact jacked up the focus motor, do you guys know if this is a common thing? And if it's worth fixing it or should I just buy a new one at $349 currently with rebates. I could also perhaps make the jump to the 1.2L I suppose.....

Here's a couple sample shots I got after the damage but before I seemed to lose all ability to focus at all. Obviously I didn't use these as they are still pretty soft but at least you can see some kind of picture after the damage. A couple shots after these it was completely blurry with no hope of change. This is straight out of the cam JPEG with no post editing.

Looking to buy this gem urgently. Is it in Stock anywhere?

I have recently purchased a 1DX (upgrade from 7d) and already had a 580EX11, but discovered that I can't use the 580 remotely. I was thinking about a YN-622-Tx as I don't want to spend a lot as I haven't used flash much as mainly a wildlife photographer but now wanting to expand. So, can someone explain want I would need to start with -without spending a lot! Also are the Yongnuo any good for 'not so serious' work?

many thanks!
Phil

Hi

Im hoping to hear from anyone who has had experience at safari with either of these lenses. I will be on safari for a week in January (VERY excited lol) and am taking my 1DX, 1.4 extender and 16-35mm. I need to decide on either taking my 200 f2 or my 70-200 (leaning towards the 200f2 as can use extenders and possibly the 7d mk ii to get further reach if i need) and will hire a long lens in SA. I was thinking the 200-400 but wondering if it would be better to get the 500 f4. I will be driving myself around but will also have the opportunity to walk around the campsite where they have bucks, zebras, birds etc. I am also thinking about hiring a 7d mk ii

So im asking should I
1. take the 70-200 f2.8 IS USM II or 200 f2
2. rent the 200-400 or the 500 f4
3. hire a 7d mk ii to compliment the 1dx

Any advice will be greatly appreciated

Thank you

Hi. I have been thinking for a while if it would be possible to use the video mode to use for astrophotography? Has anyone tried this and if so, what were the results please?

Steve

Granted there has been the G7X, however that is more of a Sony RX100 competitor and significantly more upscale at $700 compared to the S series which typically has ranged $400-$450.

S120 is currently down to $399 so maybe a successor is in the works, otherwise Canon seems to have a gap in their line up. Think we will see a replacement coming in January as it is now past due?

So I'm looking at Westcott's 7' parabolic, and I have an issue that I don't want to use all three of my 600RTs to power the light inside this big guy.

I have a triple shoe adapter, but I was wondering, can I put in a 600EX-RT and two cheaper yongnuo flashes for the other two flashes? Has anyone tried this and see what it does to your maximum sync speed with optical slaving, does it lower it beyond 1/160 that my 5D3 will reliably handle??

Thanks!

Tried both a Sigma & Canon 1.4 converter with my Bigma 50-500mm and neither got the autofocus to work (the Canon didn't even fit the lens!), so has anyone tried a Kenko 1.4 converter with this lens/camera combo and got the autofocus to work ?

(the 7dii is meant to auto-focus at f8 and I know the Bigma is actually a 6.3 but pretends its a 5.6 to get the autofocus to work)

Thanks,

Ashley

Hello. I have had the old 24-70 f/2.8 for eight years now. It has been repaired three times. Once for no obvious reason but finally I figured I must have bumped it without noticing. It focuses OK, I have no problems with the picture quality but then again I do not see very well with my multifocals.

I have read the articles which show that there are lots of problems with the old version, how the lens elements get off-center at the slightest bump and how it is a very uneven performer in the lab tests.

And how good the new version is. It just does everything so much better. How it is the best ever medium zoom. How it is optically and technically superior to anything else on the market at the moment.

About 60% of my pictures are taken with the 24-70. I do not especially LOVE it but it gets the job done.
I got filters and even a Cokin frame that fits the 76-mm ring.

I am not a professional but I make a nice living doing the job I do.
I am sure there are lots of people who upgraded the same day as the v.2.0 became available.

What might be your opinion, would I be able to leave home without or eventually sell the 24mm L, the 35mm L and the precious Glass Pomelo 85mm L if I got this beauty in my bag?

Please tell me no.

What has been your experience using one of the round light flash diffusers for portraits?

Anyone using the Chinese made ones from ebay directly?

If you use one, could you post a portrait? Thx

I've bought several refurbished cameras and lenses from the Canon site, and I finally got a dud.

I have spent some time yesterday and today trying to photograph at 600mm and 1200 mm, but could not get the IS to lock on.

So, I brought it indoors and double checked the IS setting and focused on a brightly lit object with lots of contrast, and watched the image move around the viewfinder while I handheld the camera. It just would not lock on, but instead drifted all around.

I've previously owned a SX 50, but thought the price was too high, but paid $200 for the refurb. It locked on nicely. I'll call Canon tomorrow and ask for a exchange. They show 500+ in stock.

This topic has been moved to FOR SALE Photo Equipment.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=24345.0

Hi folks! I use a 70-200mm f2.8 for outdoor portraits (weddings, other live events). A 135mm f2 would be a redundant range. Do I gain anything "significant" other than an extra stop of light? As in, is the image quality so extraordinarily better that there's no concern of "lens overlap?" I've heard marvelous things about the 135/2 and it's currently temptingly cheap. Does anyone have both lenses and find that they reach for one or the other more frequently? Thanks!

Its interesting to compare the lens at 400mm on the 7D MK II wide open at f/5.6 versus wide open on a 1Ds MK III with 1.4X TC. Note, the lens is better wide open than stopped down, and matches the FF in the corner, but not quite in the center when wide open.


The images are very carefully set up and manually focused to be the best the camera can do. The 7D MK II is a hair better than the 60D, since it has a few more MP, the improvement is proportional.


I wish he had included the 1D MK IV in those tests.



7D MK II at 400mm f/5.6 (center)




7D MK II at 400mm f/5.6 (corner)



1DS MK III with 1.4X TC wide open - f/8 (center)




1DS MK III with 1.4X TC wide open - f/8 (corner)

Hello all,

Santa was very good to me this year, and got me the one lens I have been coveting for 2 years (70-200 f2.8 IS II), and I am ecstatic to have it. I am blown away by the gift, and intend to go shooting with it as soon as possible to play.

Now that the presents are unwrapped, what did everybody else get that they are ecstatic to have? Just a general thread to say thanks to the people in our lives that are amazingly generous.