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Canon Rumors · Feb 16, 2015

HTML:

It appears the brand new Canon EF 11-24 f/4L USM is already shipping in parts of Asia. The lens is scheduled to begin <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1119028-REG/canon_9520b002_ef_11_24mm_f_4l_usm.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">shipping in North America on February 26</a>.</p>
<p>etphotos has posted some unboxing photos of the lens and mounted it to an EOS-1 as well as a Sony A7 series camera. <a href="http://www.etphotos.net/canon_ef_1124.php" target="_blank">Check out the unboxing here.</a></p>
<p><strong>Preorder the Canon EF 11-24mm f/4L USM: <a href="http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60085/51926/1036?u=http://www.adorama.com/CA11244.html" target="_blank">Adorama</a><a href="http://www.etphotos.net/canon_ef_1124.php" target="_blank"> | </a><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1119028-REG/canon_9520b002_ef_11_24mm_f_4l_usm.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a><a href="http://www.etphotos.net/canon_ef_1124.php" target="_blank"> | </a><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3ERXKE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00T3ERXKE&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20&linkId=SKIW33AKPAGADHBN" target="_blank">Amazon</a></strong></p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.etphotos.net/canon_ef_1124.php" target="_blank">etphotos</a>] via [<a href="http://photorumors.com/2015/02/15/canon-ef-11-24mm-f4l-usm-lens-unboxing/" target="_blank">PhotoRumors</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Canon Rumors · Feb 16, 2015

HTML:

A patent showing an optional image stabilization unit that can be put into a lens without changing its focal length has been filed.</p>
<p><strong>Patent Publication No. 2015-28555 (Google Translated)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Published 2015.2.12</li>
<li>Filing date 2013.7.30</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Example 1a (master lens only)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Focal length 392.50</li>
<li>F-number 2.92</li>
<li>Half angle of 3.16</li>
<li>Image height 21.64</li>
<li>Overall length of the lens 379.64</li>
<li>BF 41.57</li>
<li>Effective diameter of the front lens 135.72mm</li>
<li>Lens configuration 8 groups nine</li>
</ul>
<p><!--more--></p>
<p><strong>Example 1b (anti-vibration converter mounted state)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Focal length 392.50</li>
<li>F-number 2.92</li>
<li>Half angle of 3.16</li>
<li>Image height 21.64</li>
<li>Overall length of the lens 379.64</li>
<li>BF 41.56</li>
<li>Effective diameter of the front lens 135.72mm</li>
<li>Lens construction 12 groups 15 sheets</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Canon patent</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>3-group configuration of positive and negative positive</li>
<li>Inner focus (the second group)</li>
<li>The anti-vibration converter can be inserted on the object side of the third group</li>
</ul>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2015-02-16" target="_blank">EG</a>] via [<a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/Canon_new_lenses.html" target="_blank">NL</a>]</p>
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Ozarker · Feb 16, 2015

I'm in a sort of transition phase with my photography hobby and getting much more serious with it. By serious, I mean becoming more educated and working at it as a craftsman rather than just pointing, shooting, and hoping to get lucky. I work a whole lot (70+ hours a week), but things will be slowing down a whole lot for me in the next year or two. With the exception of my EF 50mm f/1.4, all my non-L lenses are going to be sold. My T5i is also going to be sold. I'll also add either the 5D mkiii or a 1Dx.

Here's what I want to do once things slow down:

1. Shoot high school and other local sporting events (As a hobby at first: providing photos free to interested players and the local small town newspaper)
2. Shoot portraits at no charge (So I can practice more and learn the art. If I've learned anything, it is absolutely a fine art that some of you have honed beautifully).
3. Photograph wildlife (especially birds).
4. Basically photograph whatever interests me, but in a slow and methodical way to develop a "style".

Over the past year I have started adding to my gear to start towards these plans for the future. I have the light modifiers I want, flash, LED continuous lighting, etc. Now I am at a fork in the road when it comes to lenses and I need to know what some of you think I should do going forward.

I lead a very simple life. Very basic. I don't buy new cars (I drive very inexpensive used cars until the wheels fall off). I live in a very basic home, and I am nearly always wearing just a pocket t-shirt, jeans, and tennis shoes. I do this so that I can afford my hobbies. Always have. I love guitars, guns, and photography. Well, I've got my guns. I have my guitars, and I still have all my own teeth. Now I want to round out my photo gear. I only tell you about my lifestyle because I would hate for somebody to assume that I'm just some guy with more money than sense. I am not. I just live in a very modest manner that allows for my hobbies... which I think are more important to me than granite countertops or a BMW. Nothing against those things (I love BMWs), but I could never have my hobbies if I had those things. Hobbies will keep me busy when I'm old.

Anyway, I need to add either the Canon EF 200mm f/2 IS USM, or the Canon EF 600mm f/4 IS ii USM in the next year or so. Maybe as soon as 6 months from now. If I go with the EF 200mm f/2, then I think I ought to sell my EF 400mm f/5.6. Then I could also add either a 5D mkIII or a 1Dx. I'm thinking the prices of those two bodies will drop as the new releases are made. They are both fine cameras in my eyes.

If I go with adding the EF 600mm f/4 IS ii... then that will be it for the year.

What should I do and should I sell the 400mm f/5.6 when I get the 200mm f/2? I have the Canon EX 2iii, so I think I'd have 400mm covered.

I'll never be pro, but I do like the pro gear and want to work hard towards producing photos like a lot of you pros produce. My little place has no art on the walls. Not one single painting or photo. When I do hang any, it might as well be mine. Thanks guys!

aardvark · Feb 16, 2015

I'll be heading off to India next month, visiting a number of their National Parks, principally for Tigers, but also birds and anything else of interest.

I was going to take:

- 70 to 200 2.8 ISII
- 400 5.6

and was also thinking of loaning a 500 4 ISII

all on a couple of crop bodies.

However, checking out some threads and other information, I am minded not to take the 500, but instead rent a 100 to 400 ISII (which I can get for a reasonable price on rental), the reason being, that although the 500 would be fantastic, I wonder if it'll be just too much and the combined mass and fixed focal length would be a downside vs the slight compromise in image quality vs the 100 - 400 (but flexibility in range)

I also have MkIII teles I can take.

In a previous post prior to the 100-400 ISII coming out the view seemed split on such a strategy

Arnoldvb · Feb 16, 2015

What is the truth ? According to The Digital Picture the Canon EOS 7D Mark II has a fixed focusing screen, while the Canon Professional Network Europe tells us it has interchangeable focusing screens.

ruicarv79 · Feb 16, 2015

Hi everyone,

Lately I've been in love with the 35mm f/2 IS USM. The lens is just a joy to use and delivers flawless performance.
I've been using it for the last months and cannot get it off my 6D!
You can find my review here:
http://ruicarv.wix.com/ruicarphotolover#!canon-35-f2-is-usm/c1n3k
Hope you find it useful!

Regards,
Rui

K-amps · Feb 15, 2015

I do not claim to be as technically savvy , but the question hounds me, why does Canon not start using 16 bit files rather than 14 bit, why this 14 bit brickwall? Color depth, DR can certainly benefit from doing this. I accept that there will be an increase in file size, but many would happily take that if it gave them more latitude or IQ.

Can someone tell me what I am missing?

(Apologies, I came out of the 80's CD redbook thinking, where 16 bits were not enough, then came 18 bit converters, then 20... and finally we were happy at 24bit before DSD ruined the party...... There seems to be a reluctance in upping the Ante in Digital photography).

I believe Canon's banding has to do with the algorithms they use, its not a hardware issue. Granted there is some noise at the hardware level, but the banding is a software issue or so it seems.... an optimized algorithm would produce more uniform/ random grain that is not as ugly as vertical/ horizontally focused bands...

TWI by Dustin Abbott · Feb 15, 2015

Hi everyone, I did a controlled series yesterday where I took a ton of shots at all major apertures (f/2.8-f/11) on three lenses (ones that I had on hand): the new Tamron SP 15-30 VC, the Samyang/Rokinon 14mm f/2.8, and Tamron's own 24-70 VC. I have also recently reviewed both the Canon 16-35 f/4L and the Zeiss 15mm f/2.8, so those lenses are also fresh in mind, but I didn't have a copy on hand for a direct comparison here.

I think you will find the results interesting.

http://bit.ly/1Aac03H

P.S. Can anyone tell me how to directly embed YouTube video here?

Omni Images · Feb 15, 2015

Just stumbled across this today, they say "new release" ... I found it looking at a guy's landscapes shots taken in the past month or so, and he listed using that lens ... I thought What tha ? ... I didn't know they made a tilt shift for 35mm cameras .. I had seen the new 90mm T/S for medium format, and have my eye on that .. only around US$3.2K ... but the 28mm for 35mm cameras is around US$8.3K Ouch .... would go well with the 5Ds I'd expect.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1092907-REG/schneider_06_1073706_pc_ts_super_angulon_28mm_f_4_5.html

Zeidora · Feb 14, 2015

There is a bit of a discussion of whether Canon completely misses its audience with the 5dS/R. I wonder whether there is a correlation between what optics you use, and how likely you are of getting a 5dS or 5dSR.

From my personal perspective, I use Zeiss MF lenses, am a slower shooter, almost always use a tripod, am heavily influenced by 4x5" LF shooting style. Image quality is a huge factor. I set ISO to 160 native sensor, and never went above 800. Movies? I could not care less. But I am concerned about image quality in folio size book spreads. So I will get a 5dSR, replacing the 5dmkII.

My expectation is that the of the poll is that 1>2 and 3<4, and 1+2<<3+4. The 5dS is not for everybody, but a welcome addition for some.

fullycaffinated · Feb 14, 2015

I do a lot of remote travel to Canada's far north and have recently started carrying a speed light portrait studio. I am finding 2x 430exii and 2 shoot through umbrellas on ultra light stands to be insufficient for high quality images. I am using one for the backdrop and on to light the subject. I carry a white muslin and backdrop stand. I am likely to add at least 1 more 430exii for lighting the backdrop and one for the subject.

I am currently using the 7d radio trigger capability to trigger the 430's. So far it works very well for this application, I would just like to add more light to the backdrop. Carrying my studio strobes is not an option. All the travel is via small bush plane.

What I am wondering is if I add a 600ex-rt as an on camera flash/trigger, will 3x 430exii trigger with the 600ex-rt?

Thanks
Mark

Valvebounce · Feb 14, 2015

Hi Folks.
Just thought I'd let you all know (well those of you that didn't already know) that there is a great article from Roger at lens rentals, Canon 100-400 IS Mk II lens in bits all over his bench here..
http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2015/02/canon-100-400-is-l-mk-ii-teardown-best-built-lens-ever
As ever a very well written piece. I'm not sure but I think he likes the build quality of this lens! :

;D

Cheers, Graham.

YuengLinger · Feb 14, 2015

In a thread here http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=24210.15

and in the test-chart sample images available at the-digital-picture, certain lenses seem less sharp, soft in comparison, when mounted on a 7DII and compared with a 1D Mk III. In particular, the new 100-400mm II.

On the other hand, Arthur Morris claims that talk of the 7DII being relatively soft is due to user error.

Test charts aren't flying around...

daniela · Feb 14, 2015

Hi Guys!

As my children have grown up now, I can invest more time in my hobby. So I am looking for an mide-sized "L" prime lens to shoot animals.
I saw the 300mm II 2.8 L an the 400mm 4 DO II. For the 300mm I would suggest buying an 2x III extender, for the 400mm an 1.4 III extender.

Which combination would you prefer - if you look at the lens image quality?

The cameras I would use with the lens would be the 6D and the 7D MK 1.

Does anybody own the new 400mm DO IS II and can tell me, if this lens is as sharp as the 300mm?

Greeting from the white Tyrol
Daniela

xps · Feb 14, 2015

Canon´s infobank - article about interesting technical questions

http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank.do

crashpc · Feb 14, 2015

I was playing around with my M lenses, and my thoughts took me to the question "why there is so weird collapsing mechanism" on my 11-22mm. So I played with it with thoughts of greatest achievable wide angle, and I found this:

1) When focus is set to infinity, it has slightly wider angle. Cool. It´s pretty normal way some lenses work.

2) When I try to collapse the lens, It goes wider. But it doesn´t let me to shoot, because something in the lens switches, and I see prompt jumping up on me (in the camera) that I should put the lens into normal shooting position.

Well, so I slowly turned the lens to the "breakpoint" where it still doesn´t ask for shooting position, took a a shot, and found it is noticably wider. It could be even wider without problems if the locking mechanism was set more "precisely".

Here is normal shot of locked mechanism - mess on my table:

And here it is in the position right before the camera will deny to shoot and prompt me to put the lens into shooting position:

If that prompt wasn´t there, It could shoot even wider, possibly without problems.

I hope there are not some wicked internal tolerances in the lens, which could cause some optical elements colision when trying to focus without locking it, but if somebody found this is not the case, I might mod that lens, bypass that switch, and get 10 or maybe even little less.

Huh, just playing...

rfdesigner · Feb 14, 2015

Hi

I picked up a used but mint 28f1.8 yesterday, tested it for flair, autofocus accuracy, focus accuracy across the field and so on.. all good.

Today I play with it again and suddenly it's noticably out of focus (about 8 feet away for 6 foot target), focussing substantially beyond target, the difference is I'm using the edge AF points rather than the centre, recheck with centre and it's still bang on. Top and bottom points seem fine, but the left and right points miss target... focus with the centre point and recompose to put the target on the left or right points and focus accuracy is much better.

Is this a common problem with 28f1.8s on old 9 point AF? I've never noticed this problem with either of my other lenses (100 f2 and a kit 18-55)

I can't see that I can blame the lens when it's sharp across the field (no dislodged elements) and focusses accurately on the centre point.

I could manage this situation, but it would be nice to sort it out,

Cory · Feb 14, 2015

What do you think of the potential of the upcoming Sigma 150-600 for outdoor events, birds in flight, etc.?
Thanks.

brianodell · Feb 14, 2015

I just recently got back into photography and started using off camera flash again (2 speedlights, Canon 580 ex II). I'm looking for some decent light modifiers and stands for indoor and outdoor use. Nothing crazy expensive. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thank you!

Sporgon · Feb 14, 2015

My photographic career goes back well into the days of 35mm film, and with that medium cropping was generally very undesirable. You will occasionally find people on internet forums who claim that their 35mm film is about 20 mp because it scans at around 20 meg of information, but much of that information is grain. In real terms of resolution, at least in terms of visual enlargement, 35mm film is about equal to 8 - 10 mp, depending on which emulsions were used.

When I first started with FF digital in 2005, I quickly found that framing on a 12.7 mp 5D was much more forgiving than I had experienced before, and then when adding the 21 mp 5DII there was quite a jump in how much I could crop without any real enlargement issues.

Over the last twenty years or so there has been major development and improvement in zoom lenses, until recently very much at the expense of fixed focal length lens development. However one area where zoom lenses have not been able to make much progress is in size and weight ( though weight has been improved a little), aperture speed and price. Indeed if anything price is going up ! I often hear about people who are changing their Canon / Nikon system for something smaller and lighter. Indeed I was one of them a few years back. Without exception these people all were toting the finest f/2.8 zooms, often adding in a 100-400L as well.

When it comes to mp I am one of those people who think that, in a small, portable camera, 18 mp or so is quite enough. In fact when stitching the panoramics I would be quite happy to have 12. With good lenses and excellent technique 18 to 20 mp offers ridiculous levels of detail, in picture sizes that are generally much larger than most people want. At Building Panoramics I am constantly being asked for pictures that are smaller than my standard size. Originally I found this insulting; now I just find it annoying.

My initial reaction to the 50 mp 5Ds is that I don't need or want that amount of pixels. ( I'm not mentioning the 'r'. I'm one of those people that known that once you have run a light USM there is no practically perceptual difference in detail).

But then I got think about my circumstances with primes. I generally prefer a few light, fast primes to a heavier, slower zoom. If a 21 mp camera allows more practical cropping then a 50 mp one is even better, assuming you are making the pixels count. Primes offer lighter, faster, sharper in frame edges, less distortion, shallower entry pupil ( for stitching), better balance on a smaller camera. I wont say cheaper because by the time you have a few of them to equal a zoom they are as expensive, if not more so. Certainly the extra mp will allow more 'focal length flexibility with fixed focal length lenses.

Also interesting that the 5Ds is a little lighter than the 5DIII. I'm guessing that it probably lacks the stainless steel bottom plate of the 5DIII. But lighter is better for lugging around the country side.

Maybe we will see more development in primes now. Thoughts ?

kiwiengr · Feb 14, 2015

See attachement

xps · Feb 14, 2015

An interesting article on an new sensor: "to double the light-input surface area of each pixel"

Organic-on-silicon complementary metal–oxide–semiconductor colour image sensors
http://www.nature.com/srep/2015/150112/srep07708/pdf/srep07708.pdf

xps · Feb 14, 2015

Humor: What Canon really thinks about the DSLR Video Revolution
found on http://www.canonwatch.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJBq0z2Vmu4#t=182

killswitch · Feb 14, 2015

How does the Canon Loyalty Program work? I contacted Canon Support in regard to a camera body that is exhibiting hardware malfunction (most likely) and they gave me the option to get in touch with Canon Loyalty Program (CLP) to replace the camera. When I called them, the representative on the phone was giving me prices that are on the Refurbished Camera page. If the CLP prices are exactly the same as what is on the refurb page then I can just buy right off that refurb page myself. Why bother with CLP then? I was under the impression CLP gets you a better value for trading in your non-working body for a working body of the same make. Can somebody share their experience with how this CLP works? Thanks.

Edit: At the time of the call I think the Refurb bodies were on 15% or 30% discount.

Steve Todd · Feb 13, 2015

I've not used the highest setting (7) for sharpness in the picture style customization before, because I have just checked sharpness in DPP and made adjustments as needed. However, while shooting the NHRA Winternationals in Pomona, CA last weekend - a long time friend and fellow NASCAR photog, told me he always sets the sharpness setting in the picture style menu to the max setting (7).

He said the max setting has given him sharper images right out of the camera that look sharper to him after processing in DPP, compared to adding sharpness in post processing of images shot at a lower sharpness setting in picture style.

I have the sharpness setting in my cameras set at one level past the center mark, and have been satisfied using this method. However, I'm always open to new methods that will produce sharper images. I am wondering what the rest of you set your sharpness settings at, and have you ever tried the max setting?

Thanks in advance for your input!