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Exorbitant repair costs, Canon Australia

So a few weeks ago I took my 24-105mm f4 L IS to Canon at Ryde to get it repaired. It was making some noises and not working after a single photo was shot. I haven't used the lens that much over the last few years and it had sat unused for a year since it started playing up because I didn't have funds to gets it fixed. Only recently been able to afford luxuries.

So Canon had moved premises and no longer have a face to face service department which I had used several times before (the last time I refused to have my 50mm f1.4 repaired for $250 when I could buy a new one for $415). They still sent a nice service guy down to me and I explained the issue and said no rush, thank you etc. I was also told they would ship it to me for free which was really nice. They said they would email me details of the repair cost before going ahead with it. Great!

I got a letter (snail mail) from Canon today, which detailed

Estimated work: upon inspection Diaphragm assembly found faulty
Quote to dismantle unit, supply and fit listed part, adjust as required, reassemble, check and test all functions
yG2-2189-000 Power Diaphragm Ass'y
Labour $337.00
Parts $70.92
GST $40.79

Estimated total $448.71

Reading up on interwebs it seems pretty common, I usually recommend canon gear and used to like this lens, (I even had my work buy a copy) but now I am quite cranky about forking out more than half of what the lens is worth to fix one component.

They also want to charge a $50 quotation fee which wasn't explained when I talked to the service rep.

Any words of wisdom? I won't fix it myself, I was thinking about selling it, but my wife enjoyed using it in the past.

Ditching the Primes - Advice/Opinions Needed

hi all, new user - first post.

anyways, i've been shooting with a 6D and an 85/1.8 along with a 24/2.8 IS. this lightweight kit has been pretty easy to live with, using the 24 for landscapes/scenes/buildings/cars and the 85 for people. was planning on a 200/2.8 one day to finish it off.

my situation has changed though, with a new baby - and i'm finding it hard to use the 24 at all anymore for family photos. the 85 is still nice, but every shot becomes tight and almost repetitive. was thinking about selling the 24 in exchange for a 35 and/or a 50. however, wouldn't a standard zoom just be easier to live with, than the primes?

strongly considering selling the 24 and 85 and then grabbing a 24-70/2.8 ii. my understanding is that this lens will give me prime-quality shots throughout the semi-wide/normal range. would add the 70-200/2.8 ii after a couple years to finish the zooms kit.

hate to sound lazy, but kids are a handful. anybody see anything wrong with this approach? any other suggested paths?

thanks.

5D MK I Still Relevant?

Hey guys,

I've been following the site for some time and finally decided to jump in. I recently bought a 5D MK iii but decided it had way too many features I was not using. I NEVER shoot video or HDR in camera so I sold it. But now I find myself missing the FF and I'm not getting the most out of my lens(16-35mm MK I) on my 40d.

I'm considering getting a 5d MK I since they're so inexpensive these days. Does anyone know if the IQ has held up overtime? I still get great shots with my 40D other than my shutter seems to be failing and I don't care about bells and whistles as much As IQ. If I get one I will likely go through KEH.

Thanks for all of the advice in advance.

Going native at 400mm

Maybe you can help.

I've been bending my mind over the 400mm focal length for quite some time but can't make up my mind. Too many options but none that really stand out. Here are some of my considerations, all for full frame use:

I'd like something better than my 100-400L that I can shoot hand held.

I don't require a zoom and use 400mm mostly for motorsports or animals in a zoo environment.

A 400mm prime would be nice especially if I can use my 1.4x II to go to 560mm occasionally.

I don't want to break the bank or my back. I'd like to keep the weight of the lens under 2.5 kg if possible, investment below 5000 Euro's.

I previously owned the Sigma 150-500 OS, but couldn't live with the handling (focus ring in the wrong place) and the performance at the long end was only so-so. That lens also felt really heavy but looking at the figures I think the weight distribution was more to blame than the actual weight (front heavy).

I know some of you use the new Tamron 150-600 and the resolution looks good at 400mm but it reminds me too much of the Sigma, and I no longer want any lenses that have a maximum aperture of f/6.3.

And..

  • The 400mm f/5.6 has no IS.
  • The 400mm f/2.8 I or II is too heavy and big for one. The cost is a killer too.
  • The 400DO has a mixed reputation. I know of a shop that has a used one, with one year warranty for €3999. The shop is not exactly around the corner but I'm actually really tempted by this one...
  • The 300mm f/2.8II is a stretch, and I'd have to use it with a 1.4x II or buy a 1.4x III making the stretch even longer.
  • The 300mm f/4 IS looks great but less so with a 1.4x
  • 70-200 f/2.8II with a 2x TC? Maybe not.

What else am I missing? What would you recommend?

Canon Most Widely Used Camera System at the Latest World Cup

HTML:
<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/07/canon-most-widely-used-camera-system-at-the-latest-world-cup/"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/07/canon-most-widely-used-camera-system-at-the-latest-world-cup/">Tweet</a></div>
<p><em>Canon Follows Up on Their Strong Showing at February’s Big Game in New Jersey With Widespread Use by Imaging Professionals at the Soccer Tournament in Brazil</em></p>
<p>MELVILLE, N.Y., July 24, 2014 – Canon U.S.A., Inc., a leader in digital imaging solutions, is proud to announce that Canon broadcast lenses were the most widely used broadcast lenses covering the matches of the recent Soccer Tournament in Brazil. Furthermore, the professional photographers tasked with capturing the riveting goals, ravenous fans, colorful scenery and nail-biting moments of the soccer matches utilized Canon DSLR cameras and lenses more than any other brand.</p>
<p>This outstanding show of support for Canon equipment in Brazil follows Canon broadcast lenses being used extensively to broadcast The Big Game in New Jersey on February 2, 2014, as well as being the number one camera and lens choice for imaging professionals shooting from the sidelines of the game between Denver and Seattle. In support of professionals on the ground, the Canon Professional Services (CPS) team was on location at each of these sporting events, among countless others, to provide support to photographers, broadcasters and all imaging professionals.</p>
<p><!--more--></p>
<p>“Canon is honored to help broadcast companies and news services bring the action of these high-profile sporting events to devoted fans across the world. It is a testament to our products and professional service and support that so many image makers at the pinnacle of their profession rely on Canon,” said Yuichi Ishizuka, president and COO, Canon U.S.A., Inc.</p>
<p>Throughout the soccer matches in Brazil, Canon broadcast field lenses were utilized to deliver footage of the thrilling tournament. Canon broadcast field lenses represented approximately 90 percent share of all broadcast lenses used. Additionally, Canon broadcast lenses were used extensively to deliver The Big Game to more than 111 million television viewers.</p>
<p>A look to the sidelines in Brazil revealed a familiar sight to many sporting event fans — Canon EOS Digital SLR cameras, equipped with iconic white Canon telephoto EF lenses. Throughout the tournament, approximately 70 percent of imaging professionals chose Canon DSLRs and lenses to capture and share the memorable moments of these passionate and prideful soccer matches. Much like The Big Game, in which 75 percent of imaging professionals on the sideline of that gridiron matchup chose Canon equipment.</p>
<p>At each of the 12 stadiums that hosted Soccer matches in Brazil, CPS had teams of technical and professional representatives providing imaging professionals with convenient access to product support, equipment maintenance, and product loans.</p>

24L MkII focusing problems

My 24L mkII is very accurate on my eos-M and when using when live view on my 5D mk3's but on the 5D's when not using live view the afma only works for one distance. All other distances are way out of focus.

For example, when focusing from about 20 ft I can amfa to get a decent result. Change to shoot from 10 ft and it misses by about a foot.

Would sending to Canon be likely to fix this? The lens is unuseable as is, I have had it for a couple of years but only started noticing the issue recently.

Thanks!

Steve

How come so many camera stores in NY? Please recommend one outside of NY

I tried to submit request for group purchase on canonpricewatch but I will be charged state sales tax because I live in NY. Then I look more closely and it seems that most major camera shops are in NY. Why is that?

And does anyone know of any good stores that are outside of NY? I only know Beach camera and buydig. But I think they are essentially the same company. I'd like to know a couple more to compare.

small light wide angle for steadicam-like capture in real estate

All,
I am a stills guy adding an occasional simple walk-through video to keep customers who insist on both. I have experimented with a Hague DMC steadying device for my 5Dmk3 and could tell that my 24-70 v2 was too heavy and too big, because the length/weight combo introduces swaying and movement when lifted or swung. So it appears I need a pancake-like wide angle to trim down the shape and weight effects of the body/lens at the top of the stabilizer.

I already own a lot of wideangles for stills: my Sigma 12-24 seems too big for this and, like the Canon 24-70, too heavy out front. I have the 24mm f1.4L, trimmer in length but almost as heavy as the 24-70.

I am considering the Voightlander 20mmf3.5 or 28mmf2.8. These are manual, pancake designs. The 20 is not sharp at the edges but the 28 is much better. My biggest unknown is whether moving through spaces and doors and hallways in smaller houses will the 28 be insufficiently wide? If I shoot a still to show a whole small room I have my 17mm tilt and shift or the Sigma 12-24. (But I use my 17 on every shoot.) With a moving video camera I have the flexibility to pan. The 20's lack of sharpness might be OK because video never seems very sharp anyway. But the changes in shapes get weird(er) with the very wide lenses.

I have read that very wide focal lengths help mask glitches in the stabilizing. But 20 is pretty wide to be moving past objects in the tracking shots. . 28 doesn't feel "wide" to me now. But video handles distortion differently.

Here's a really good review of the two lenses by a photographer. The link is to the review of the 28 and at the end of this review is a "related" link to his earlier write-up of the Voightlander 20.
http://joserochaphoto.wordpress.com/2013/09/10/voigtlander-color-skopar-28mm-f2-8-sl-ii-aspherical-review/

Perhaps there are other candidates. Couldn't think of a different forum for this. Feedback, please.
Thanks, in advance for all thoughts.

How many years before we see a 50L II

It's a tough world out there for lovers of the 50mm focal length. There is a new Sigma 50 Art, but it has outer-edge focus problems, is somehow too contrasty for some, and for videographers, there are focus breathing issues. On top of that, it's supposedly a bit heavy for a prime.

On the other hand, the well known Canon 50L isn't as sharp as some would hope wide open and also has focus breathing problems. On top if that, it's slow to focus, despite having USM.

So the question is... When will Canon respond to the Sigma 50 Art with an update to the 50L?

I would be thrilled if the updated lens was quick to focus, tack sharp wide open, and rendered colors the same way it does on the current 50L.

Of course it's all speculation at this point, but it doesn't hurt to pose the question.

Thoughts?

  • Poll Poll
Exif data, does it help, do you need it shown?

Exif data helps us learn? Tick one or more.

  • Yes I like to see camera settings, and gear configuration it helps to me to know what settings might

    Votes: 37 80.4%
  • No I don't want or need to see the camera settings or gear configuration, I know what will work.

    Votes: 3 6.5%
  • No I don't want or need to see the camera settings or gear configuration, I just want to look at the

    Votes: 2 4.3%
  • I need them posted with the picture as my iPad won't show exif on an image.

    Votes: 4 8.7%
  • I need them posted with the picture as my Android won't show exif on an image.

    Votes: 1 2.2%
  • I like them posted as I don't want to open the full size images, too much data from my allowance.

    Votes: 6 13.0%
  • I use a PC / Mac so I can see exif if I want it.

    Votes: 10 21.7%
  • I don't add the info as I don't have time to do it and it is embedded in the image.

    Votes: 2 4.3%
  • I didn't realise some devices don't show exif info, I will try to add it in future.

    Votes: 1 2.2%
  • I usually do add the camera settings and gear configuration, sometimes I slip and forget.

    Votes: 9 19.6%
  • I deliberately remove exif from images, especially GPS, I don't want you turning up at my house!

    Votes: 5 10.9%

Hi Folks.
I often view images on the forum, almost exclusively on a tablet, some images are hosted on Flickr or similar, so I can see the exif if I click through, others don't have this facility, and I can't view the exif with a right click like I could on a PC.
I know I'm not the only one who asks for camera settings and gear configuration for the shots to be added, I'm just trying to find out why.
Multiple votes are allowed, there are 6 votes allowed for ten questions. For instance I sometimes use my Android tablet but mostly iPad so both are relevant.
Please feel free to add any thoughts in a reply.

Cheers Graham

7D the new 6Ti?

Throw in the new features of the T5i on top of a 7D and you have a 6Ti that fits into the 699.99 or 799.99 price point. Lacks features offered by the 70D to keep it from cannibalizing it. What do you think? I build computers and AMD and Nvidia like to do this with their video cards. They just slap a new model on an old one with a few tweaks if that to up sales.

Scanner recommendations for digitising prints?

Hi all,

I have recently gotten my hands on a large archive of old family photos, which I'm looking to scan so that copies can be made available to everyone in the family.

I realise it will take a long time to get through all the prints, so I'm keen to do this once and do it right. I already own a CanoScan LiDE 200 scanner which is a fairly cheap and cheerful beastie, and could use that, but I'm assuming I'll get better results with a higher-end scanner?

Can anyone recommend a good scanner for this purpose? I'm happy to send a few hundred dollars on a good scanner, but with a young family funds are limited so I can't go crazy.

I live in New Zealand so buying second hand from the likes of eBay can be a challenge with shipping costs etc.

Cheers..

Gerry.

Which Bokeh Monster?

So Bokeh Monster is a term I use for those primes that weigh in with apertures larger than 2.8.

Now with photography being very expensive here in South Africa, I've only got space (and money) for one Bokeh Monster in my kit.

Which would you recommend?

I'm aware that the number of aperture blades plays a big part in creating bokeh but I'm also looking for decent AF performance and sharpness. I'm less worried about those abherrations (fringing/vignetting) that can be 'ticked' away in post.

I'd also like an opinion as to whether IS benefits the photographer when working at these extreme apertures.

Looking forward to hearing some opinions, especially those with working experience of these primes.

Thanks in advance guys :)

3 week trip to Finland & Germany, what lenses to take?

Hello CR,

I'm finally taking some paternity leave for our twins (8mo) and going to visit Finland/Germany to see the extended family. Since our bags are already pretty full, I'm thinking hard about what lenses to take. My now only body is a 5D3.

Here is what I have:
24-105L
50/1.4
lens-baby 50
100/2.8 macro (non-L)
70-200/2.8 IS USM II
28-135 IS USM (haven't gotten around to selling)
70-300 (non-L, haven't gotten around to selling)

I think I'm sold on taking the 24-105 and 50/1.4, but I'm really thinking hard about the 70-200/2.8... any thoughts or advice? Also, would you take gear insurance for a trip like this?

Buying a used lens from Adorama

Y'all have been so helpful to me in the past, I'm hoping you can help me decide if I should buy a used lens from Adorama now.

I've decided on purchasing the 24-105 f/4 L for my next lens (and soon after that, the 10-22). I see that Adorama and B&H have it new for $1150, but that Adorama has several listed as N (white box) for $899. It doesn't come with a hood like the full-price version does, but I rarely shoot with a hood and if I wanted to I assume I can buy one separately for less than the $46 they list it for on their site.

However, I've done some reading and found that several people on this forum and others feel like Adorama tends to be optimistic when grading their lenses. I definitely don't want to spend several hundred dollars on a lens and find out a year later that it's failing so I'm not looking at anything less than new... but I'm curious if N is actually known to be truly new.

I know they sell their used lenses with a 90-day warranty, but I'm curious if the white box lenses also carry the Canon one-year warranties as well.

If it's a big risk, I'd rather just pay the additional $250 and get the brand-new, warrantied lens that I know nobody has used. But if it's a no-brainer that N-rated white-box lenses are in fact exactly the same as buying a new lens (just without the hood and bag), maybe I should save the $200 and go for it?

High Megapixel EOS on the Way as Mentioned by Canon

HTML:
<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href=""></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="">Tweet</a></div>
<p>The first confirmation directly from Canon about a high megapixel camera has appeared in an interview with DC Watch. The interview was about the two latest ultra wide zoom lenses, the EF-S 10-18 f/4.5-5.6 IS STM and the EF 16-35 f/4L IS and what went into designing them.</p>
<p><em><strong>Google Translated from interview:</strong> “I to higher pixel unnecessarily is the opposite, but there is also a feeling if there is a high-performance lens that matches the number of pixels (pixel pitch), to want to take a look at the descriptive power of the true. By super-wide-angle zoom image quality is good came out to the periphery, and we look forward to the advent of high-resolution model of the EOS.”</em></p>
<p>We were told previously that there would be 3 EOS cameras in 2014, and so far we have seen just one, the Rebel T5. There was also the white Rebel SL1 (i dont count this as a new camera). The next one will be the follow-up to the EOS 7D and the third one is still a mystery. It could be something as simple as a new Rebel, or perhaps something far more interesting.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fdc.watch.impress.co.jp%2Fdocs%2Fnews%2Finterview_dcm%2F20140722_658853.html&sandbox=1" target="_blank">Read the entire interview</a></strong></p>
<p>Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS: <a style="color: #900000;" href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8942SO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00K8942SO&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20&linkId=6AVWEQKBYJ7TXPHU" target="_blank">Amazon</a> | <a style="color: #900000;" href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1051475-USA/canon_9518b002_ef_16_35mm_f_4l_is.html/BI/2466/KBID/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a> | Canon EF-S 10-18 f/4.5-5.6 IS STM: <a style="color: #900000;" href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K899B9Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00K899B9Y&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20&linkId=SYUOCVQGBCUI2BEC" target="_blank">Amazon</a> | <a style="color: #900000;" href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1051476-USA/canon_9519b002_ef_s_10_18mm_f_4_5_5_6_is.html/BI/2466/KBID/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a></p>
<p>via [<a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/cameras/Canon_rumours.html" target="_blank">NL</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

New lamp, what to buy?

Hi all!

I sold my Elinchrom Quadra because it didn't do HSS, and I'm currently using two 600 RT speedlites.

I'm looking at GoDox and had a look at this link:

http://www.godox.com/EN/Products_Portabe_Flash_EX_Series.html

But seeing that the say 400Ws is the same as guide no. 52?? I'm not sure why I would buy if that is correct, the 600 RT is guide no. 60. I know that you can't really calculate and convert those two, but they have provided both values, but I can't find it to add up. Which one is it? My Quadra was 400Ws and I had at least 1 1/3 stop power advantage over the two speedlites.

What would you recommend for a 400-600Ws portable flash that does HSS and is cheap like the GoDox?

Thanks !

5d Mark III Misaligned Transmissive LCD

I just had my viewfinder fixed and was wondering how many other users had this same issue.
It went undetected for almost two years because I thought it was an af microadjustment/user error issue.

In liveview AFQuick mode the cameras mirror lowers and it focuses through the submirror, mirror, and sensor the same as it does through the viewfinder. Page 212 of the EOS 5D Mark III manual describes this operation. (Specifically page 213 Section 4 Paragraph 2) That means the AF point placement in both liveview and through the viewfinder should be perfectly aligned. Any slight variation in the viewfinder transmissive LCD will result in the focus point being misaligned from the intended target. There should be no slight difference between the AF point placement between the optical axis of the viewfinder and liveview – any variance would cause a shift in the focal plane and be considered a defect. Consumers should be aware their viewfinder focus points don’t precisely focus where they intend.
To test if your transmissive LCD is misaligned - place the camera on a tripod and turn on live view AFQuick mode. Line up your focus points to a target and focus. Now turn off live view and look through the viewfinder. Your AF points should still be squarely over the target. If they are not, your transmissive LCD is misaligned.
I assumed my camera was severely front focusing when placed on a subjects eye. Turns out the camera was actually spot focusing on the subjects eyebrow. Canon claims this is within spec. I disagree.

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What would a 16mm or 18mm F2 FF lens look like?

Wider than the Canon 24 F1.4L, there are no lenses in the lineup faster than F2.8. Do others think there would be a market for a 16mm F2L or 18mm F2L prime lens? It would be a stop faster than a 16-35/2.8 which would be awesome for indoors shooting, night sky photography, photojournalism, etc. Would a lens as wide as 16 or 18mm at F2 be able to retain a 72mm or 77mm filter size?

Using viewfinder and square images

Hi there,
Maybe a silly question, but nevertheless.
I like to make square images (1:1). When I use live view I see this format in the screen and on the computer.
When I use the viewfinder instead of live view I see the whole format even when I like to see the image again on the camera and the computer (pre-view). I shoot in jpeg with the mark5dIII.
Is it possible to use the viewfinder and still see the image in square format on the camera?
Thanks for reading my question.

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