Help with upgrade from T3i?

Hey all,

I am a long time photographer with film in several bodys like the OM-1. I used point and shoots for light work for awhile but loved shooting film.

Three years ago I got a T3i as a gift and grabbed the 17-55 F2.8 and 70-200 IS F4 for it. I mostly shoot Street Landscapes Wildlife and Cars. I have been happy with the T3i thus far but I am getting really sick of the noise at higher ISOs. I shoot in poor light quite bit which makes matters even worse. I usually resize for computer screens and anything past 1600 ISO is just a mess with this cam shooting RAW. Some of it I can fix in post with lightroom but at 3200 everything for me becomes unusable. If I correct in post it takes enough that the picture is now soft and looks like a painting haha.

Anyways I am looking at the 7D MK II or a 5D MKIII for a replacement. I am wondering if the high ISO performance is any better on the 7D MKII or if I should just got for a full frame camera and start over. I do shoot alot of low light it seems, so the T3i is just not working for me. Also sometimes I need a little more FPS for wildlife moving and the T3i is so slow.

Also the T3is focus or lack there of is killing me it has one cross type so you really can only use the center dot and then reframe on everything.

I was also looking at a X100T as a kick around old school camera as I like manual controls alot more than the digital DSLR menus and stuff. I guess I am just old school and like that instead of digging through menus.

I guess I am looking for any suggestions you guys might have for a next step. If I went for the 5D MKIII I would just sell my 17-55 EFS f2.8 and T3i body and put it towards that and probably another L lens.

Thanks for any help!

Purchase 5DIII now, or wait for 5DIV?

So I'm on the fence about whether I should wait and hope for the 5DIV to come out within the year, or go ahead and finally put down the money for the 5DIII. Also, any input on what people are thinking the 5DIV is going to be priced at would be nice. If its more than $1000 higher than the 5DIII or more than a year out, I probably won't be in the market for it after all. I currently have the 70D and 6D usually paired with the 70-200 2.8 II and I shoot mostly sporting events. The 70D does a decent job for the outside events, but anything indoors is too grainy. The 6D does fine on the graininess indoors, but misses focus way to often. So this is my dilemma, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

17-40 ---> 16-35 f4

Hi everyone...

Tomorrow I hope to be getting a 16-35mm f/4. I currently have the 17-40 which I have been more or less happy with and has served me well over the past few years. I owned a 16-35mm f/2.8 II for a short period of time, but decided to sell it because I could not justify the price difference (17-40 Used - $550 vs. 16-35 Used $1200 - at the time for good clean copies). I ended up going back to the 17-40.

The 16-35 f4 seems to be somewhere (~$950 Used) in the middle and has gotten great reviews all around. The chart numbers seem great and the example look good. I am particularly excited about testing the corner sharpness, which is supposed to be a big improvement over the 17-40 and 16-35 2.8. I like that the filter is 77mm to share filters with my 24-70 2.8 I.

Please let me know what you think about your 16-35 f4. Any and all opinions are welcomed...

Buying second hand, avoid low shutter count.

Being a cheapskate I like to buy second hand.. I got my old 30D second hand and will probably get my next body second hand.

The shutter count is an important feature on any sales comments. However as an engineer I know how you get a usually get a "bathtub" failure rate curve.

Now I found a website showing shutter life:

http://www.olegkikin.com/shutterlife/canon_eos5dmkii.htm

I chose the 5DII as I've been wanting to get one.. just need to find the cash. Anyway what's interesting is that there appear to be several cameras failing at low shutter count. So I worked out from the data what the chance was that a known used working camera would fail in the next 10,000 shots.

(aplogies for the formatting.. the pertinent column is the right most, being the chance of failure in next 10k shots)


Number of shots on camera Recorded working Recorded failed Cameras surviving Failures in next 10k shots Chance of failure in next 10k shots
100 0 1 1526 26.3 0.0172
200 1 1 1525 25.5 0.0167
500 7 2 1523 24.2 0.0159
1000 3 2 1514 23.3 0.0154
2000 3 2 1509 23.8 0.0157
5000 32 2 1504 45.0 0.0299
10000 67 17 1470 13.0 0.0088
20000 114 13 1386 10.7 0.0077
35000 148 16 1259 5.3 0.0042
50000 122 8 1095 3.4 0.0031
100000 296 17 965 1.2 0.0012
150000 262 6 652 1.5 0.0023
250000 233 15 384 0.6 0.0016
500000 93 15 136 0.1 0.0006
1000000 17 4 28 0.0 0.0011
2.00E+006 4 3 7


By the looks of things I need to look above 50k shutter actuations.. and there's nothing to be feared by looking well beyond.

Canon U.S.A. Celebrates The Creativity Of Indie Filmmakers As A Returning Sponsor Of The 2015 Sundan

HTML:
<p><b>MELVILLE, N.Y., January 22, 2015</b> – Canon U.S.A. Inc., a leader in digital imaging solutions, announced today the company will return as a Sustaining Sponsor to the 2015 Sundance Film Festival (January 22 – February 1, 2015). Nestled in the mountains of Park City, Utah, the Sundance Film Festival celebrates the best of independent film; as part of the Festival sponsorship, Canon will offer a special slate of programming dedicated to the filmmakers who push creative boundaries behind the camera.</p>
<p>Canon is pleased to share that at least 52 of the 188 films premiering at this year’s Festival — over 27 percent — were shot using Canon equipment, up from the approximately 20 percent last year. Eli Roth’s <i>Knock Knock</i>, Amy Berg’s Prophet’s <i>Prey</i>, <i>The Overnight</i>, <i>The Wolfpack</i>, <i>Misery Loves Comedy</i>, <i>Cartel Land</i>, <i>Call Me Lucky</i>, <i>Fresh Dressed</i>, <i>How to Dance in Ohio</i>, <i>Most Likely to Succeed</i>, <i>The Hunting Ground</i>, <i>Tig</i>, and <i>The Nightmare</i> are a few of the many shot-on-Canon projects set to screen during the festival.</p>
<p>“We are honored that so many creative filmmakers have chosen our equipment to bring their visions and stories to audiences. We look forward to supporting them and connecting with them at the Sundance Film Festival,” said Yuichi Ishizuka, president and COO, Canon U.S.A., Inc. “Sundance provides us with the opportunity to directly interact and support many up and coming filmmakers, and we are excited to return as Sustaining Sponsors to this year’s festival.”</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/about_canon?pageKeyCode=pressreldetail&docId=0901e02480e2b1ed" target="_blank">For a list of events and more information, visit Canon USA</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Global Shutter Coming to Canon DSLRs? [CR1]

HTML:
<p>We’re told that Canon is working on using a global shutter for the upcoming replacement of the Canon EOS-1D X. The hope is to get the camera to shoot at 30fps for still images, which would require a lot of upgrades and new technologies such as CFast.</p>
<p><strong>What is a global shutter? </strong>(<a href="http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/global-rolling-shutter" target="_blank">From Red</a>)<strong>

</strong><em>“A global shutter controls incoming light to all photosites simultaneously. At any given point in time, all photosites are therefore either equally closed or equally open. A global shutter can work either by abruptly exposing and then obstructing all photosites at once, in which case it can be thought of as a “hard shutter,” or by doing this more gradually as a “soft shutter.” Since they have no moving parts, these are sometimes also referred to as an electronic shutter.”</em><strong>

</strong></p>
<p>I’ll let the more engineering inclined discuss the likelihood of this technology for CMOS DSLRs on the forum. This comes from an unknown source, so take it with lots of salt.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Good quality "super zoom" Camera

Hello All

Just looking for a quick bit of advice... taking the family to Disney World in a week or so, and I really don't want to lug around my big gear and worry about it for the week. Last time we went I took my 60D, which after 10 hours a day in the park and 6 days was a burden. Then I only had the one little one to watch... now we are blessed with 3, and I would rather carry around something compact but that still has reach...

Any recommendations or personal experience would be appreciated... not sure how the Nikon P600 stacks up to the Canaon SX60 or perhaps other offerings from 3rd party manufacturers...

thanks!

-G

Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 VC Coming End of Month

HTML:
<p>Saitama, Japan – Tamron Co., Ltd. (President & CEO: Morio Ono), a leading manufacturer of precision optics, announces the release of a groundbreaking F/2.8 ultra-wide-angle zoom lens for full-frame DSLR cameras.</p>
<p>Since 2012, Tamron has been expanding its lineup of interchangeable lenses for full-frame DSLR cameras. The Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD (Model A007) was the world’s first F/2.8 high-speed standard zoom lens to include image stabilization, followed by the development of the unique SP 70-200mm F/2.8 Di VC USD (Model A009), SP 90mm F/2.8 Di MACRO 1:1 VC USD (Model F004), and SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD (Model A011) lenses, all of which have been highly acclaimed among the photo enthusiasts around the globe. Now, we have developed SP 15-30mm F/2.8 Di VC USD (Model A012) to expand the world of imaging possibilities in the wide-angle range.</p>
<p><strong>Preorder the Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 VC $1199: <a href="http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60085/51926/1036?u=http://www.adorama.com/results/Tamron1530LensRelease" target="_blank">Adorama</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Cameras/N/0/Ntt/TA153028*/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
<p><!--more--></p>
<p><strong>Superior, class leading imaging performance using an innovative XGM lens element</strong>

With an optical construction consisting of 18 elements in 13 groups, including, for the first time, an XGM (eXpanded Glass Molded Aspherical) lens element placed in the front group, and several Molded-Glass Aspherical elements and LD (Low Dispersion) elements used throughout the optical system, aberrations such as geometrical distortion and lateral color are efficiently corrected enabling the zoom lens to deliver outstanding image quality throughout its entire zoom range from corner to corner.</p>
<p><strong>Enhanced sharpness with exclusive VC image stabilization when shooting handheld in low light or at night</strong>

In response to popular demand, Tamron has created the world’s first F/2.8 ultra-wide- angle zoom lens with VC (Vibration Compensation)*4. The VC allows shooting at slow shutter speeds and in low light conditions, and effectively compensates for minor camera shake, whilst maintaining class leading optimal performance.</p>
<p><strong>eBAND Coating provides superior anti-reflection properties</strong>

In addition to further optimizing Tamron’s acclaimed BBAR (Broad-Band Anti-Reflection) Coating, the eBAND (Extended Bandwidth & Angular-Dependency) Coating has also been employed in this lens. This combination offers superior anti-reflection properties especially important in ultra-wide-angle lenses which are particularly susceptible to flare and ghosting due to their wide angle of view, and provides superior quality and crystal-clear images by minimizing unwanted light reaching the sensor.</p>
<p><strong>15-30mm zoom covers both ultra-wide and semi-wide-angle focal lengths</strong>

At its ultra-wide-angle settings this lens can capture, in a single photograph, broad landscapes that cannot be taken in fully by the human eye. At its semi-wide-angle focal lengths, it’s ideal for travel and street photography. In short, this unique lens utilizes the zoom function to provide maximum shooting flexibility with a wide range of subjects.</p>
<p><strong>Fascinating background “bokeh” throughout the wide-angle range due to its fast constant F/2.8 aperture</strong>

Utilizing its shallow depth of field at F/2.8, it enables users to capture beautiful bokeh effects even at wide coverage angles. Its advanced optical formula and 9-bladed circular diaphragm are designed with defocused photography in mind – perfect for creating images where subjects stand out from their natural, blended backgrounds.</p>
<p><strong>Proven fluorine coating utilizing Tamron’s industrial lens expertise is used on the front element</strong>

Fluorine coating, with an established track record in Tamron’s industrial lenses, such as those used in automotive cameras, has been applied to the front element. It repels water and dirt, and makes it easier to remove smudges.</p>
<p><strong>Flexible, high-performance focusing with USD</strong>

USD (Ultrasonic Silent Drive)*5 delivers high torque, high precision, and virtually silent autofocus action. A full-time manual focus mechanism permits fine focus adjustments instantly without needing to exit AF mode.</p>
<p><strong>Lens hood designed to prevent light from striking lens at all focal lengths</strong>

This unique lens hood provides effective shading of the front lens surface over the entire zoom range to minimize flare. It utilizes the unique characteristics of the optical system in which the front lens group recedes as you zoom in from 15 mm to 30 mm.</p>
<p><strong>Double-hood structure provides additional strength</strong>

A double-hood structure has been incorporated into the lens design to improve the durability of the zoom mechanism.</p>
<p><strong>Comes with “SILKYPIX Developer Studio for Tamron”, RAW image processing software customized for Tamron SP lenses</strong>

The SILKYPIX Developer Studio software can develop high-quality images from RAW data, incorporating adjustments that can express the personal style and taste of the photographer. These include white balance, color, sharpness, and the tonal curves recorded by digital cameras.

The SILKYPIX Developer Studio for Tamron provides a range of functions in addition to the basic adjustment capabilities, such as correcting aberrations (chromatic aberrations, distortion, peripheral light fall-off), based on the optical data. Used in tandem with Tamron’s SP series lenses – renowned for their crisp, high-resolution imaging – this advanced technology efficiently produces images that meet photographers’ most exacting demands.</p>
<p>*1 The XGM (eXpanded Glass Molded Aspherical) lens element is capable of efficiently correcting aberrations in the angle of view that changes significantly with an ultra-wide-angle zoom lens. Furthermore, it has an especially significant impact on minimizing distortion and enhancing sharpness of the image at its periphery.

*2 eBAND (Extended Bandwidth&& Angular-Dependency) Coating is a new nanotechnology-based coating technique developed by Tamron to reduce unwanted reflections.

*3 The Sony mount version does not include VC since Sony digital SLR bodies incorporate built-in image stabilization functionality. The name of the Sony mount model is “SP 15-30mm F/2.8 Di USD” without the VC designation.

*4 VC (Vibration Compensation) is Tamron’s proprietary image stabilization mechanism.

*5 USD (Ultrasonic Silent Drive) is Tamron’s proprietary ring-type ultrasonic motor.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.tamron.co.jp/en/lineup/a012/index.html" target="_blank">Visit Tamron</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Sigma 35mm 1.4 - Great on 5dmk2 but not 6D - Normal?

Hi,

I got the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 last week, tested it on my 6D... hmmm, really front focuses, using micro adjustment has more or less sorted it out. But, when I tried it on my 5Dmk2... spot on! No micro adjustment needed!

Is this normal? Can a lens front focus on one camera body but not on another?

Just curious if this has happened to anyone else?

Cheers

canon 5D mark iii help please upgrading from a 60D or wait for the Mark IV

After a little advice please ☺ I am looking at the canon 5D mark iii. Whats your thoughts & opinions is it really worth the leap? (Im upgrading from a 60D) Also with the mark IV being rumored to he released later this year would I be better off waiting a little longer for the price to come down? Or do you owners of a mark iii love the camera? ☺ I'm skeptical due to horror stories I've heard of them spending more time in repairs then being used...

If it's any help I'm. Using these lenses and would like to get most out of them. I'm mainly taking photos of kids & birth photography

Canon 50mm 1.4
Canon 24-70 f2.8L ii
Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC

Occasionally but rarely I use tamron 18-200

Advice - what to take to Europe

Hi All,

I am a hobbyist photographer who has been getting back into photography over the last 3 years. I will be going on a holiday to Europe with approx. 6 days in London and 6 days in Paris. T24here will also be short stop overs in Dubai and the Maldives when going to and from Europe. The time in Europe will be spent pretty much exclusively in London and Paris - there may be a single day trip to the country - but consider that all my time will be spent in the cities.

Currently my kit consists of a 6D body, 16-35 F4 L, 24-105 F4 L, 70 - 300 L, 50 1.8 and 85 1.8. I am definitely going to take the 24-105 and the 16-35, but I am wondering if I will use the 70-300 or will I be lugging it around the world and not using it because everything in London and Paris will be close and crammed in, negating the need for longer focal lengths. I am also considering taking the 85 1.8 for some wide open portraits, but once again I am not sure whether it is worth taking it. Also I will be purchasing a Gorillapod SLR Zoom to take with me.

I will be travelling with the wife, who can't understand why it can take longer than 15 seconds to take a photo, and why would you bother walking around to find another angle. So I am normally under time pressure which also means that constantly swapping lenses just ends up annoying the wife, which in turn end up annoying me. But I am sure a lot of you can understand that situation !!!

I will be taking standard tourist type photos, and expect to have the 24-105 on the camera probably 80% of the time.

So for those of you who have experience visiting and photographing in London and Paris - would you recommend that I take the 70-300 L and / or the 85 1.8 or should I just stick with the 16-35 and 24-105 and travel lighter?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Sigma 24-105 f/4 DG OS Discontinued

HTML:
<p><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/11/sigma-24-105-f4-dg-os-art-production-on-hold/" target="_blank">We posted back in the fall that Sigma had halted production indefinitely of the relatively new 24-105 f/4 DG OS lens</a>. We’re now told that the lens is in fact discontinued and production has been halted forever.</p>
<p>There was no word as to why it was discontinued, I can only assume the market for a 24-105 on the Canon side is extremely saturated and that the Sigma wasn’t a big enough leap forward in terms of optical quality to purchase over the “kit” lens from Canon. There’s also a possibility the cost of production was too high to keep the price competitive.</p>
<p>We’re still waiting on an official release about this from Sigma.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
<p> </p>

RØDE Launches Stunning Wireless System, New Shotgun Mics

HTML:
<p><strong>From RØDE

</strong>RØDELink represents the next generation of digital wireless systems. Using a series II 2.4GHz digital transmission with 128-bit encryption, it is able to constantly monitor and hop between frequencies to maintain the strongest possible signal level at a range of up to 100 metres (over 100 yards). The RØDELink Filmmaker Kit provides everything you need to start shooting video wirelessly, including a receiver, transmitter and broadcast-grade lavalier microphone. The receiver (RX-CAM) features an OLED display with information on level, battery status (receiver and transmitter), mute and channel selection. The unit can be mounted on a standard camera shoe mount, 3/8″ thread or belt-clip, and for added versatility the shoe mount can be located in one of two positions. The lightweight transmitter (TX-BELT) can be fitted to a belt or clothing and features a locking thread to ensure the microphone connection is as secure as possible. RØDE’s omnidirectional Lavalier microphone is included in the kit to provide the highest possible audio reproduction quality.</p>
<ul>
<li>Series II, 2.4GHz digital transmission</li>
<li>128-bit encryption</li>
<li>Up to 100 metres range</li>
<li>OLED display (on receiver)</li>
<li>One button pairing</li>
<li>Three level gain control</li>
<li>AA battery or USB powered</li>
<li>Includes RØDE’s broadcast Lavalier microphone</li>
</ul>
<p>There’s more coverage on these new products at: <a href="http://blog.planet5d.com/2015/01/rode-stuns-filmmakers-launches-stunning-wireless-system-new-shotgun-mics/" target="_blank">Planet5D</a> | <a href="http://www.rodemic.com/wireless/filmmaker" target="_blank">RØDE</a></p>
<p><strong>Preorder the new products from B&H Photo</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1115088-REG/rode_rodntg4_ntg4_shotgun_microphone_with.html/BI/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Rode NTG4 Shotgun Microphone with Digital Switches</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1115089-REG/rode_rodntg4plus_ntg4_shotgun_microphone_with.html/BI/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Rode NTG4+ Shotgun Microphone with Digital Switches and Built-In Rechargeable Battery</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1115091-REG/rode_rodlnk_fm_rodelink_wireless_filmmaker_kit.html/BI/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">RodeLink Wireless Filmmaker Kit</a></li>
</ul>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Auto Focus MicroAdjust--Why the Stigma?

Lately I've seen more posts than ever here, and on retailers' review sections, stating that a lens was sent back because it needed AFMA. :o

Personally, I have several L lenses and a Sigma 35mm Art. Each one benefitted from some Microadjustment, from +/- 3 all the way up to +/- 13, and all these lenses perform great on my 5DIII, phenomenally better, in fact, than on my old 60D which I bought before knowing about AFMA.

I've thought that AFMA is one of the great features of bodies that have it.

So why the increasing shunning of a lens that needs fine-tuning to work its best with a body?

Seriously, look at some of the recent threads about newer lenses and the claims that just the need for AFMA meant the lens got shipped back.

Says it all

From my local professional dealership.

Both described as "mint -", which means basically brand new.

Shows how much the Market cares about another stop or so of DR. Says it all really. Personally I'd be annoyed if my chosen brand of asset was depreciating so much faster than its other equal.

Incidentally it is very rare for them to get a used 5DIII in. This is only the second I have ever seen them get.

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canon 85mm f1.2 II front element issue

Hello everyone, I am really new to photography,,,have just bought myself a camera lens from second hand shop, it is a canon 85mm f1.2 II, it looks quit clean and work same as the other lens( really don't know what to check in order to make sure it works right), the only thing that I just notice is the "grove" on top of the front element has scratches, does it mean the lens has been opened by someone, or it could on there when it came out of the factory.
Should I get it returned or just don't worry about it.
Does any third party company can manufacture the element for this lens other than canon?
Thanks for all the advise.

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Inconsistent reviewing of lenses

We read reviews and draw our own conclusions, and generally have a feel for the sites that are reliable. This review of the 100-400mm II, however, takes the cake for contradicting itself.

http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews

Tamron 150-600
150mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are excellent stopped-down at f/8 through to f/16
250mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are excellent stopped-down at f/8 through to f/22
450mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are excellent stopped-down at f/8 through to f/22
600mm
Both centre and edges aren't critically sharp until you stop-down to f/11, which means that you should only use the 600mm focal length sparingly if sharpness is your number one priority.

Summary:
Score for IQ 4.5/5

Sigma 150-600
150mm
Centre and edge sharpness are commendably good wide-open at f/5, and remain high through from f/5.6 to f/16
300mm
Centre and edge sharpness are commendably good wide-open at f/5.6, and remain high through from f/8 to f/16
400mm
Centre sharpness is commendably good wide-open at f/6.3, and both the centre and the edge remain high through from f/8 to f/16
500mm
Centre sharpness is commendably good wide-open at f/6.3, and both the centre and the edge remain high through from f/8 to f/16.
600mm
Centre sharpness is commendably good wide-open at f/6.3, and both the centre and the edge remain high through from f/8 to f/16.

Summary:
Score for IQ 5/5

Canon 100-400 II

100mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are both excellent wide open at f/4.5, and outstanding between f/5.6 and f/11.
200mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are both excellent wide open at f/4.5, and outstanding between f/5.6 and f/22.
300mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are OK wide open at f/5, and outstanding between f/8 and f/16.
400mm
Both centre and edge sharpness are OK wide open at f/5.6, and outstanding between f/8 and f/16.

Summary
Score for IQ 4.5/5

Firstly, the 100-400 beats the other two in his own descriptions and yet gets rated lower than the Sigma and the same as the Tamron. Secondly, photozone, which actually measures the sharpness quantitatively, has the centre sharpness at 300mm close to the top of the chart, and wide open is sharper at f/5.6 than f/8 for 200-400mm.
http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/896-canon100400f4556is2?start=1

Very odd comments: “While you could use it (100-400) on a smaller APS-C body for a 160-640mm equivalent angle of view, it won't balance very well at all - as demonstrated by the images below, it's a much better match for a professional-grade full-frame camera like the 5D Mark III”.
an excellent telephoto zoom lens for Canon full-frame DSLR owners

But, the APS-C 7D II is only a couple of mm smaller in 2 of the dimensions and larger in the 3rd, and weighs 910g versus 950g for the 5D III. I can’t tell any balance difference between the lens on the 5D III and 7D II. The Tamron and especially the Sigma are far more unbalanced

Canon EOS Rebel 750D Spec List [CR1]

HTML:
<p>A spec list we were given has the upper end Rebel split into two different cameras, a 750D and a 760D. The North American naming was not given for the cameras. We expect an announcement for a new Rebel(s) to come in the next  few weeks.</p>
<p>The biggest thing I notice in this specification list is the 24.2mp image sensor. It has been assumed by most that any new Rebel would have the 20.2mp sensor from the EOS 70D.</p>
<p><strong>Canon Rebel 750D/760D Specifications</strong></p>
<ul>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Full HD movies, MP4 format, HDR movie, automatic shooting modes (EOS 750D )</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">24.2MP sensor and Canon’s DIGIC 6 image processor</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">ISO 100-12,800 range </span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Flicker Detection technology</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Five frames per second continuous shooting mode</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">19 cross-type AF point system </span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Hybrid CMOS AF III </span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Rear Quick Control Dial (EOS 760D )</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Creative movie modes (EOS 760D )</span></li>
<li class="p1"><span class="s1">Wi-Fi and NFC</span></li>
</ul>
<p>This information comes from an unknown source and I’m hoping for some clarification on the model split if it is indeed true. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of difference between the 2 models. Please notice the [CR1] rating on this post, and treat it accordingly.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Image Stabilizer on 70-200 2.8 for Basketball

I know the rule is if you're using a high shutter speed you don't need IS, but I'm wondering if basketball photographers are generally using IS on the 70-200 2.8?

I used to always have it in mode 2 but this season I've tried using it without IS on. During a game, I'll turn it off and on to experiment but the results have been really inconclusive. Sometimes I'm getting an amazingly razor sharp image with it on where you can see individual eyelashes at 100%, other times I'm getting exactly what I'd get if it were off -- slightly burred at 100% but certainly still sharp.

I'm just wondering if the guys shooting pro games without strobes generally have IS on or if. Is there any downside to just keeping it on and on mode 2? I should mention this is with the 1DX. My usual settings are 1/800, 2.8, ISO somewhere between 4000-8000.

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