Threads

flooder · Jan 3, 2015

I have found a software bug in the 7DII and I just want others to know about it, if they happen to stumble into it and not understand what is going on.

Background: In late Nov I finally got a change to shoot some basketball and in the first game I got back home and the WB in every other picture was off. Way off. Yellow, normal, yellow, normal etc.. I brought it up a few places and most pointed to flicker or setting the WB with an expo disk with a high shutter speed. None of this rang true with me, so I kept plodding on. The WB was not messed up all the time.
With the 7D I had only shot RAW, but with the 7DMii I wanted to get more comfortable with jpeg, so I was making several adjustments to the picture styles, and on another occasion I noticed that my jpeg info would change every other picture. (+1 to -1 Saturation for every other picture.)

I finally had enough and over the holidays spent a day tracking down what would cause it happen and what did not.

The bug is in Custom Modes while using User Def Picture Styles or Custom White Balances settings.
If any changes are made to those settings and re-registered or auto updated, the settings will alternate between the old and new settings with each picture - after a sleep cycle.

Basic Setup:

M or Av mode - Pick an accurate exposure

Auto Power Off - 1 Min

JPEG

User Def Picture Style (I set User Def. 1 to Faithful and left all other detail default)

Register those settings in a Custom Shooting Mode (C1)

Set the Dial to C1

Change the User Def Picture Style details to Monochrome

Re-Register the Custom Mode you were using. (C1)

Allow the camera to Sleep Cycle

Wake up the camera and fire off a burst.

For me ever other pic is in Monochrome

I am able to duplicate for any User Def Picture style setting detail and Custom WB as well.

All other settings do not seem to matter.

surapon · Jan 3, 2015

http://petapixel.com/2014/11/18/whats-fastest-lens-theoretically-possible/

Just for FUN, to all of my dear friends.
Have a happy new Year 2015.
Surapon

Canon Rumors · Jan 3, 2015

HTML:

<p>Over on the <a href="http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=14229" target="_blank">Magic Lantern forum</a> a user was trying to install the latest version of the third party software, but was unable to. Their camera has firmware 1.3.3, while Canon has only made version 1.2.3 available on their site. There is no word on what features or fixes have been made available in Canon’s official firmware version 1.3.3.</p>
<p><em>“Few weeks ago I bought a 5D M III. Today I tried to install Magic Latern, but I failed. The firmware version of my camera is 1.3.3, and there was no ML installation file for this version. Then I visited Cannon’s website to download firmware 1.2.3. I tried to install 1.2.3, but my camera said ‘Firmware older than Ver. 1.3.0 is on memory card. Delete old file and update using later version.’. One thing I was surprised about is that there is no firmware 1.3.3 on Cannon’s webpage. It is very strange that my camera is running 1.3.3 firmware.”</em></p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=14229" target="_blank">Magic Lantern</a>]</p>
<p><em>Image Credit // <a href="https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=zh-CN&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.xitek.com%2Fthread-1401348-1-1-1.html" target="_blank">Xitek Forum</a></em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Jan 3, 2015

Images from the EOS M kit zoom lens.

I use the M mainly as a travel/vacation camera. Here's an image of my older daughter on top of Cranmore Mountain in New Hampshire.

chrysoberyl · Jan 3, 2015

Until recently, I have been able to use the HDR feature and take RAW shots. Now it is unavailable; in the menu, it is shaded and I must select JPEG only. Is this the result of a software update? Can it be reversed?

tron · Jan 3, 2015

hello,

FYI: I came across the following:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=14229.0

There is NOTHING at Canon's site though...

bsr7 · Jan 3, 2015

Hi Folks,

I just wanted to share our latest wedding highlight. Thanks for viewing!

https://vimeo.com/114419792

-BSR Visual

Tinky · Jan 3, 2015

Hi folks,

I'm looking for feedback from anybody WHO HAS ACTUALLY OWNED AND USED SPECIFICALLY. the Samyang 12mm f2.0 mirrorless or 16mm f2.0 APS-C lenses.

I know theres a lot of samyang bashing generally because some folk can only use af, I'm not talking to those people.

I'm talking to the other people who have got over that. I already use their 85 and 35's. I'm happy with iq, happy with manual iris, happy with stop down metering, happy with mf..

I want to hear from folk who are on that page, but have specific feedback good or bad about the 12mm f2 or 16mm f2.

On a more general subject (the slack-jawed belly rumblers may chip in here with something they read or even came up with themselves - it's a more conceptual question, so ill informed hypothesis is as welcome as any other...) do you think it is a waste of time buying ef-m lenses for the long ball game?

Here's my dilemma..

I shoot mainly video.

I am very happy to shoot on aps-c and have no issue buying dc dx ef-s etc lenses from canon or anybody else, as I'm not going full frame.

I have a 7d / 60d combo and 2x Ms.

I want a third manual lens, wide angle this time, for video work, especially timelapse, where the manual iris is a gift.
I do a lot of timelapse.

If I get the ef-m mount 12 then I can only ever use it on an m. Fine just now. But what about in 2 years when I'm being asked for 4k video?

If I get the 16 then I can use it on the m or on a 7d x0d class or rebel or cx00 class... but it's maybe just not as wide as I would wish after the 1.6x crop..

I already have the tokina 11-16 which I love for video, but I hate for timelapse (as I hate all the electronic aperture lenses that I sometimes forget to stop down and decouple) but then how viable is the M for timelapse anyway, no remote port, no internal intervalometer... and the extra stop would make a significan't difference for astro, big jump between iso 1600 and 3200...

So I guess the proposition is, getting a more vanilla 16mm that works with everything today and most probably tomorrow (including the duffer x0d bodies I buy cheap for knackering with timelapse) or get the more exciting 12mm which might never be any use for any other camera than one of the m's (or a third I may dedicate to ml timelapse) m's are so cheap just now, but will that be the case in 3 years? will they even be around in 3 years?

So, informed opinion on the first bit please, musings from anybody on the second point, if you will...

Famateur · Jan 2, 2015

Getting by with a crop sensor while I save up for full frame reminds me of a similar situation many years ago in my other "shooting" hobby...

My first pistol was a very capable 9mm, but after shooting a .45ACP for the first time, I was hooked. It took some time, but as soon as I had saved enough, I made the move. I still have the 9mm, and it has its uses, especially as a respectable backup, but the .45ACP gets the nod most of the time.

Anybody else have a similar experience? Maybe another hobby to relate it to?

PS: If 9mm is crop and .45ACP is full frame, what does that make .40S&W? APS-H? ;D For some, just the right balance of performance and capacity...

PPS: Having G.A.S with either of these hobbies alone is miserable enough, but both at the same time is driving me mad...

Canon Rumors · Jan 2, 2015

HTML:

<p>A patent showing a metal & plastic resin mount for DSLRs is available to view. The plastic part of the mount seems to be for a much smoother mounting and dismounting of lenses. There could also be some weight and cost savings for lower priced cameras like the EOS Rebel line.</p>
<p><strong>Patent Publication No. 2014-240858 (Google Translated)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Published 2014.12.25</li>
<li>Filing date 2013.6.11</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Canon patent</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Of bayonet mechanism mount</li>
<li>Mounting an inner peripheral portion of the body has a concave rail surfaces of metal</li>
<li>Mount the outer periphery of having a rail surface of the convex shape in the resin</li>
<li>That resin rail than the metal rail, I have a narrow width and high height</li>
</ul>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2015-01-03" target="_blank">EG</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Canon Rumors · Jan 2, 2015

HTML:

<p class="p1">With CES in Las Vegas starting next week, expect a few PowerShot cameras from Canon. Below is a specification list we were sent for a high end compact camera. We were told this will be the PowerShot G17, though it could be the previously rumoured large zoom compact that goes with the G1 X Mark II and the G7 X.</p>
<p class="p1"><strong>Specifications</strong></p>
<ul>
<li class="p1">1″ Sensor</li>
<li class="p1">24-200 f/1.4-2.0 IS Lens</li>
<li class="p1">All magnesium body</li>
<li class="p1">Bright 1.3mp 3.2″ LCD</li>
<li class="p1">GPS</li>
<li class="p1">Wifi</li>
</ul>
<p class="p1"><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

surapon · Jan 2, 2015

Dear Friends.
Yes, I am "The American History " Lover/ Fan Club. Yes, If I have free time, I like to go the Old town, Old City to record the Photos for my friends around the world on Facebook to see.
This Album , The American History recreation, Williamsburg, Virginia, USA., During 1699 to 1780
Enjoy the old/ Tradition Dresses and beautiful People with me.
Have a great New Year, and Happy New Year 2015 to all of my friends.
Surapon

chauncey · Jan 2, 2015

The last one was pretty well panned so I altered the lighting just a bit...what say you all?

pierceography · Jan 1, 2015

So this morning my toddler decided to climb onto the counter and toss my 5Dm3 + 24-70 f/2.8L II off and onto the tile floor. Great way to start a new year. It landed directly on the lens, shattering the protective filter and jamming its brass ring into the lens threading.

I'm not able to get the broken filter off with the threads now crossed. I was hoping the filter would do what it was on the lens for and the front element would be fine, but unfortunately there are several gouges in the anti-glare layer (and possibly the glass itself). So my questions are:

1) Any suggestions on how to get the filter off?
2) Does anyone have ideas on how much repairs would cost if the front element is damaged?
3) The lens is covered under a personal articles policy on our house, would it be worth putting in a claim if there is no deductible?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

martti · Jan 1, 2015

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYXwCGWb7Yg&spfreload=10

This BH photo/video is about the Sony a6000.
It is scary.
Sony is going to eat up the Canonists who have not been brainwashed as such as yet.
When I was talking about the UI (user interface) this is what I meant.
Sony is almost there but not quite yet. Close enough, though. I will shoot with the EF lenses with an adapter.
AF, AE with adapters...or...maybe I just get rid of the heavy glass.

An eye-opening video.

LesC · Jan 1, 2015

Looking to get the 24-70 for use on FF. Anyone have experience of using a Lee filter holder with this lens bearing in mind the 82mm fliter thread?

I'm presuming a WA adaptor would be best/essential? Standard adaptor would cause vignetting?

I prefer to keep a UV filter on my lenses so would ideally fit a Hoya Pro-1D to the lens & then the adaptor ring - with a WA adaptor would I get any vignetting with a Lee 2-slot holder & 105mm ring fitted?

Or will I need to remove the UV filter before fitting the Lee Adaptor?

Grateful for any advice particulary from anyone with the 24-70 as to what will work or not?

Thanks folks

tpatana · Dec 31, 2014

I've been intentionally paying way too much tax withholding through the year. Come February, I should get decent amount money back. So the big question is, should I get 1DX for ~$5k, or wait for 1DX2 for (maybe) $7k around late-summer (or early winter) (just guessing, no knowledge on price or release date).

I've been trying to read the speculations on the 1DX2 features, but nothing solid there. Will it have enough improvements to make it worth the extra money and wait?

Current 5D3 does great, so no immediate need to upgrade. There's big sports tournament in May, but I've already given hope of having 1DX2 by then.

Doug Brock · Dec 31, 2014

When my image stabilization failed, I scoured the Internet for hints at how much a repair might cost, but didn't find any hard numbers. For what it's worth, it is costing $359 for labor and $138.64 for parts. Total bill from Canon (including my CPS Gold discount) is $407.

pato · Dec 31, 2014

Hi all
I just found this nice guide about how to fix buoyancy for underwater imaging, which is often way off once a flash is attached: http://www.scuba007.com/camera-floats/index.html
I will try this for my flash

pato

chrysoberyl · Dec 31, 2014

The tripod is a Gitzo GT1542T Traveler and the maximum load will be 3 kg. I will greatly appreciate any feedback!

John

Photo282 · Dec 31, 2014

Sydney, Australia.

Terry Rogers · Dec 31, 2014

It is my understanding that in general, Leica cameras and lenses are relatively expensive. I have no doubt they are well built and the lenses contain quality optics.

My question is this, is it really worth it? Is the IQ of a top quality rangefinder system with a couple lenses so much better that it justifies the hefty price tag? I know such a question is rather subjective (is it worth it), and different photographers have different needs. And what is good enough for one photographer is not good enough for another. But still, subjectively, is it really worth the added price?

I show my ignorance on the subject by merely asking the question. But I'm curious to hear from others on the topic, especially those who might own one, such as the leica M

JumboShrimp · Dec 30, 2014

Leaving for a trip pretty soon, and wanted to assemble the best range, lightest weight, reasonable speed, and affordable outfit I could, and ended up with these five guys I dubbed "The f/4 Pentacon". Did not set out to select all of them with f/4 but it just sort of happened that way. No real questions or issues here, just thought it was interesting to share ...
8-15/4 L
16-35/4 L IS
24-70/4 L IS
70-200/4 L IS
300/4 L IS

ple · Dec 30, 2014

Hello,

If you're in Australia, you might like to watch this doco on Henri Cartier-Bresson. He talks a little bit about his philosophy on photography, and it contains a lot of his great images. (The video expires on 3 January, 2015, 2pm.)

http://www.sbs.com.au/ondemand/video/32075331541/The-Century-Of-Cartier-Bresson

AlexB · Dec 30, 2014

Hi guys

I'm trying to decide on a telezoom that I will be using for landscape photography.

I shoot on a tripod whenever possible, and mostly stopped down to the lens' optimal aperture. The lens will be with me in my backpack whenever I go out to photograph, so size and weight is also of concern. It will be used in foul weather so it must have weather sealing.

The lens will for now be used on a 5D Mark III and a 6D, but when Canon release their high resolution body I will most likely jump on that wagon.

Most important factors:
- Image quality, especially stopped down
- Resolution (for when I upgrade to the high resolution body that is rumored, but not sure if this really should be a concern)
- Weight and portability
- Weather sealing

Less important:
- Fast aperture
- Super quick auto focus
- Image stabilization (will be used on tripod in most cases)

So far I'm considering the 70-300 F/4-5.6L IS USM, 70-200 F/4L USM and 70-200 F/4L IS USM.

I don't have any first hand experience with either one of these, so I really don't know how they compare in terms of image quality, which is my main concern. The extra reach of the 70-300 is very tempting and the maximum aperture does not worry me. However if the 70-200 F/4L's provide better image quality then I would rather go for one of those.

So what do you guys think, pro's, con's for either one? Any other lens I maybe should consider?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

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