Dear Friends.
This is my fist time that use this Awesome / Cheapo Lens Rokinon 14 mm, F/ 2.8( $ 297 US Dollars) to shoot in the night time, with hand held shooting in the dark of the night , with the Technique of our friend Yorgasor by use 2 sec. self timmer and deep breathing, and hold, during press the shutter.
Use My dear Canon 1DS MK I with 14 mm. Lens, Set at manual Mode, F= 2.8, and Suck the air out of my Lung, and shoot these photos with SS. 1/6 sec. and 0.3 sec, with 2 sec. Time delay/ Self Timer ,
= ITS WORKS, SIR= thousand thanks for your great trick, Dear teacher Mr. Yorgasor.
Enjoy.
Surapon

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=20846.0

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They seem to think it's okay...


http://www.camerapro.com.au/blog/2014/05/10/mighty-sigma-50-1-4-art-series-lens-reviewed-camerapro-team-members-brisbane-australia/#.U3EBOXZYOSo

I was shooting a 5k for family today. I fired test shots before my group was coming and all were good. When the time came I shot 1/250, f9, iso 400, eval meter, center zone, case 1, burst high. In dpp most of the shots are soft whent they should be sharper.
Camera 5d3
Canon 70-300L
Most were in the 2-300 range.
I am going on a trip in three weeks and am curious if this sounds like a user error or a lens issue?

1) 600 F4 MkII
2) 200-400F4
3) Wimberly GH II
4) Gitzo 5541LS

5) NO muscles
6) No steadiness in handholding
7) No less shaking even while on tripod
8) No improvement in shaking even supporting the lens with the Left hand below the barrel.

Sell the lenses and forget bird and wildlife photography ???

Advise please :'( :'(

Let me start by explaining my situation: I'm relatively new to photography (have been using a DSLR for about 2 years) and primarily shoot my kids at their various activities and outdoor/nature scenes (with a preference for individual plants or animals rather than landscapes).

My current equipment consists of a Rebel XS with 18-55 EF-S kit lens, 50mm 1/8, 80-200 2.8 L, and 430 EX II flash. For well over 90% of what I want to do, this is just fine, and has provided some shots that I'll treasure for the rest of my life (most of the shots I miss are due to me, not the gear). But remaining few % is irritating! Most of my problems are in low light (indoor event for the kids where flash isn't allowed or I'm too far away to use it) where I could benefit from better high ISO performance than the Rebel can offer. The other issue is catching the "key moment" when action is occurring, where the Rebel's frame rate isn't up to the task (I shoot RAW since I don't think the JPEGs from the Rebel are particularly good, and that reduces the frame rate to about 1-2Hz).

I'm aware that a 5D III would fix all my problems. But that's expensive, made more so by the need for a replacement for my EF-S lens. So I'd like opinions on the more budget-friendly options, in order:

7D or 70D: these are fast enough, but do they do well enough in low light? I'll define "well enough" as having at least the same image quality at ISO 3200 as the Rebel does at 800.

6D: fixes the low-light issues, but is the frame rate fast enough to have a decent shot at capturing action?

I'd appreciate any advice on this. Should I go for one of the above options, or just bide my time and save up for the 5D III?

Hi there.
I was shooting a wedding yesterday. 5d iii worked great with one major exception. When shooting couples dancing (iso around 5000 1/200 s ). it was not able to deliver a sharp image (maybe one sharp in 10 shots) lenses used 50 f/1.4 , 85 f/1.8, 135 f/2L and 16-35 f/2.8 L II. Servo mode tried differnet cases different settings (points, first image priority etc). It was not a motion blur. Does anyone have an experience working with these lenses in servo? I mean I tried everything with no result. Are these lenses simply too slow for tracking? Was it too dark? Thanks.

Yes, Dear Friends.
I still use my 14 Years Old Camera( Canon 1DS MK I , 2002) as the Spare Camera----Yes, This Trustfully / Great Camera never miss my shots after 12 years of her services. Yes, After that, I buy 2004 Canon 20 D as my Back up camera----Ha, Ha, Ha, And I still shoot with her too.
This morning, I just Grab Canon 1DS with EF 180 mm F/ 3.5 L MACRO USM to shoot my blooming flowers in my front yards.
Enjoy.
Surapon

Hi!
I'm looking for 35 1.4L, i will going to a interesting photographic travel on this summer, and the 35 will be perfect for lenght, weight and people street photography.. (on 5D2)

Here's the problem: buy now the 35L 1.4, or waiting for the 35L1.4 II? ?
I think that 35II will be announced maybe this year but sell in 2015-16.

Alternatives are my 50 1.4, 40 2.8 or 28 2.8.

What do you think?




sorry for my english

So far I've only shot short videos of a 5 minutes or less.

How many minuets can one shoot on a 5D3?
can is switch from one card to the next and keep shooting as it can do in still mode?

Thanks

Hiya Folks,

My main camera is a 5D3 with a 6D as my second.

For weddings and event work, I use a 600RT on my 5D with a pocket wizard plugged in to the pc outlet to fire a room light ( Paul Buff Einstein ). This works perfectly for me.

Since I don't usually use both camera's at once in this fashion, it was only recently I realized the 6D does NOT have a PC outlet. I understand the simpler focusing system from the 5D but really, no pc plug?

So...what I'm looking for is a way to fire my 600RT and fire off a room light, and NOT USE a Pocket Wizard FlexTT5.
I have one, don't really like it, only use it outside for the higher sync with the studio light.
I'm guess I'm looking for something that fits between the flash and the camera and gives me TTL and a pc outlet.

Any suggestions?

Thanks...Arnie

A attempt to define Bokeh.

http://www.mnn.com/green-tech/gadgets-electronics/blogs/what-is-bokeh-blurry-photography-effect-explained?hpt=hp_bn18

There are several examples, I find some of them to be ugly, others to be striking. I think each of us might like different ones, there is no right or wrong, just personal preference.

For example, I do not like the bokeh circles with the dot in the center, or the ones of the ocean waves catching light. The one with the sea birds on the rock are so ugly that they detract from the subject.

Hi everyone,
First post for me - finally out from the shadows! This forum has been priceless to me for the past 3 years.

I am posting this to ask whether I am missing something obvious, and if not I hope it will help others.

I recently bought a couple more CF cards for a wedding - yet another Transcend 32GB 400x and for my first time a Lexar Professional 32GB 800x. I have always (since 2004) bought Transcend but thought I would treat myself to a Lexar at double the price as I assumed it would have superior write speeds, not that I typically shoot long bursts of RAW, just short bursts. So I got it thinking it would just be my better, default card for future shoots.

On my 5D3 I was surprised that the Transcend was actually faster, yet cost less than half the Lexar. in 5 seconds I could write about 17 shots with the 400x Transcend but only about 14 with the Lexar 800x. The test was writing Large RAW to the CF, and no SD card present.

Since I have personally had no issue with reliability nor support for the Transcend nor the download speed to my computer, I wish I had known, because then I would not have bought Lexar at double the cost. Maybe there is clear information somewhere from Canon, but I must have missed it.
Thanks.

Are you doing curls with your lenses lately? Is your photo pack dragging you down hills? Or is all the fuss about the weight of today's lenses just for wusses? After a discussion of gear weight elsewhere, I saw Bryan's review of the Sigma Art where he cleverly provided the build data for many 50mm lenses, along with dates of manufacture. Dropping them into a scatter plot yielded the attached chart.

At least this confirms what we would suspect. None of the lenses in his review built prior to the year 2000 weigh more than 400 grams, while 6/10 of those after do. There are a few notable lenses missing, and this only covers 50mm, but the data here was handy so I nabbed it.

So what do folks think? Is smaller and lighter better for you? Or do you prefer higher quality and damn the pounds? Have you swapped down to a mirrorless ILC, or would you own and use both ILCs and SLRs?

I'm again thinking about selling off my 1Dx and picking up a 5D Mk III again. It will be my third 5D III in two years or so.

Negatives about the 1Dx as compared to the 5D III:

1. only 18 MP; I need to crop most of the time even when using my 600mm + 1.4x. I photograph mostly birds with this combo.

2. Loud shutter. I get all kind of looks from parents when I photograph events ( indoor ice skating, tae kwon do, birthday parties).

3. Heavy; especially with pro f/2.8 zooms.

4. Most of the time, with 12 or 10 FPS I feel overwhelmed with the number of exposures I take back with me and post process.

Positives for the 1Dx:

1. 12fps when really needed; like shooting BIF.

2. Spot metering on any AF point (not just the center point).

3. A bit faster AF speed on most lenses.

4. better metering and AWB.

5. the new auto exposure compensation when in Manual mode. Not really used it, but would have loved it when I photographed eagles last Nov.

6. Ergonomic portrait shutting (built in grip)...I never liked the bolt on grips of the smaller EOS bodies. They just seem out of place and not really ergonomic.

I could use some funds to feed another expensive hobby of mine...so the spare $3k might go a long way. Or I can sell off some other lenses like the 70-200mm f/4L and 17-40mm f/4L. These are kinda overlaps since I have the f/2.8L's.

Anyone think that Canon will trickle down the auto exposure compensation in manual mode to the 5D III? The last firmware update for it was over 6 months ago.

Thanks for insight and constructive brain storming. BTW, this is a hobby and I don't earn a living from photography. I am called upon occasionally to do family portraits and shot important event ( got a polo event to shoot in June ).

-- Jason

Ok so I have been all over the world via interweb.... hah..
my first post here...

so lets start here.. you can see my current gear list on POTN...
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=10733015&postcount=2458

my flickr - most anything beer bottle held and rc car based is galaxy note 3 based except for rc car white box background...

anyway...
quick note on me.. I am a hobbyist due to kids. It all started 5 years ago when my oldest got into night hockey. Our P&S took pics that made the kids look like zombies... white eyes and all fuzzy...

anyway I purchased a t2i and took off.. while I have been having fun... funds have made it difficult to upgrade. We did deck hockey and travel soccer.... for general use the 55-250 for soccer and 85mm f1.8 does ok for night street hockey....

I soon lusted for an upgrade and the 70d was it. I expected a bonus of $7k+ ($4400 after taxes) so when it came in recently I told the wife I was going to use 1/2 to buy a 70d and 70-200 2.8 mark i. long story short and none the less.. my bonus paid for a trip to NC outer banks which we do every year.

so I was told by my love of 23 years (married 20 this year)...
that if I want a new camera sell my truck...
truck specs: worked motor/6" lift tubbed 40" ground hawgs/1 tons/ detroit lockers front and back.. the list goes on..

anyway had someone checkout the truck and he is trying to get the $$$$$$$$$$ together...

so I will have $7k in my hands.. when I do I need to spend it all before it gets used for bills...
I have a winch which will be sold separate for $1200 or the kid can give me $8k for truck and winch.. anyway... im babbling...

IF HE DOES NOT BACK OUT IN 3 DAYS!!!!!!

so guy I work with is a 2nd shooter of weddings for a studio and does many jobs. He shoots a 5dm3 and has many lenses. We talk and he said the 1D Mark IV is what I need.

aka Need - Outdoor Night Street Hockey (ball on foot on asphalt) / Travel Soccer U8 and U14 / Indoor MMA (Mixed Martial Arts)

so now that you see my needs...
I LUST the 1dx however he (guy at work) says there is no reason to buy a 1dx or d4s unless you are a supremely booked photographer and as a hobbyist it will fall into idiocy.

so my delema... I could keep my t2i and buy glass... I want a body to use in the rain as some games happen that way. Night Hockey is usually in fall from Nov to end of Jan so Snow/Slush/Rainy Slush....

2 other guys at work are bad word users (NIKON) and I tried getting them on my side...

am I really stretching it? I would have the $$$$ if the kid buys the truck.... to get a 1dx... is it really needed?
or should I just sit back with the 1D Mark IV?

I am looking for people that had the 1dm4 went to 1dx and love it or went back....

I have seen every possible thread on the web... specs on paper are not real world...

side note I do want to go to a side paid event where I have a hookup with the local hockey league to do action shots and setup a studio.


so here is the biggest part..
if kid buys truck I have 2 choices... u tell me what would U do ... not what is ethical but what you would do even if it is stupid....

I always overdue.. my push mower has basically a ride mower.. I bought a new 2013 gmc sierra last year.. oh it came with 35's / 6" lift and really expensive.. and I drive it 125 miles a day filling up every other day... so yeah I overdo most ...

understand I know about mega zooms and iq loss but on these bodies I can live with it....
so choices...
Canon 1D Mark IV / Tammy 70-200 2.8 vc / Sigma 50-500(moon shots and long reach soccer) / sigma 18-35 f1.8
$1000 left over - buy memory cards / batteries and whatever...
or
1dx / Tammy 70-200 2.8 vc / Sigma 50-500


now I know about the mega zoom in 50-500.. i played with one on the 70d in the store and really liked it.. so it will be in my bag even if guy doesnt buy the truck and I dont get anything.. the sigma will be used even on my t2i....


so checkout my flickr... im a sub par hobbyist... I am in IT and if I post something it is up for grabs on bashing... I wont be upset...


https://www.flickr.com/photos/56197228@N05/

See their report here:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canon-powershot-g1-x-mark-ii/

Hi,

I am about to buy a polarizer filter for my Canon EF 300m f/2.8L IS prime lens (old version, not the new version II). I noticed there seem to be two versions out there of the PL-C 52. Some have the addition WII. They are cheaper and more easily available. I guess it is an updated version of this filter?

My question now is, will the WII version be compatible with my older (non II) telephoto lens? Of course I would prefer to buy the WII, but maybe I have to lookout and try to get one of the older versions? :-\

Thanks and best regards,
Steb

I am considering getting the 1dx for manual exp comp, better tracking, cleaner iso images 3200-6400, more customizable features with the second mn function button.

I shoot portraits, indoor sports, nature and gettigpng into wildlife. I can sell my second body and get the 1dx, sigma 50mm art, 1.4 extender iii.

Or

Get 16-35 2.8 ( for landscapes, large groups)
More backdrops, lighting, etc
300mm f4 is
1.4 ext iii
St-e3
Canon 8-15 f4
Grip

I have a $6k budget and on the fence on the 1dx or more completing my lens lineup.
Just looking for options. Is the 1dx worth the reasons I mentioned?

See link below from Sigma's refurb website.

http://www.sigmaphoto.com/product/clone-of-18-200mm-f35-63-dc-macro-os-hsm-c-refurbished

I handled a few of the leaders today for a few seconds each and found the G16 to be the most readily intuitive. That might point to seeing what the G17 entails, but do some of you like the G16 over any of the others (like the RX100, X20, etc.)?
I'm on the search for the "ultimate" compact for travel/street.
Thanks.

Dear Friend.
This time my DIY is too big and too expansive to make , Except , I already have all spare part.
Plus I and shoot only Square Photos, Not total wide angle Picture---Sorry, I fail this time, But I try.
Here are the spare parts :
A)Genus 77 mm Varies ND Filter.
B)Cokin " P " series
C) Genus Rubber Filter Hood.
D)Cokin " P " Series Filter Holder.
E) Cokin " P Series Filter Hood.
And Put to gather with Velcro, for easy to remove as individual part.
Enjoy
Surapon, Your friend.

Hi all, I have just received a Sunwayfoto panning clamp to use on my Arca Swiss Z1 ballhead, but the included M6 screw (as well as the screw for the ballhead) is too short. There is a gap after which the threads start inside the ballhead stem, and the screw threads don't reach deep enough.
If you are using panning clamps from RRS or some other company, can you tell me how long the screws are approximately? Does anyone actually use a panning clamp with the Z1. Any help will be greatly appreciated.