I've been given the above ringflash. I'm assuming that it should work with my 5D3. Is anybody still using one of these (it probably dates from circa 2000) and can give me any pointers?

Hello Canon enthousiasts,


Since it's my first post on this forum I'll first give you a short introduction of myself.
My name is Laurens, I come from the Netherlands and work mainly a photojournalist for a newspaper.
I read the topics on this forum quite often and also regularly check the main page too see what's going to be out there.

I'll get down to my issue. I bought a 7D II and noticed that the top LCD doesn't show the lightmeter in manual mode anymore... Like my 7D MkI, 5DII and III do. There is however a exposure correction bar(in AV or TV) that could do this. But I'm not able to find anything about how to make it work like that in the manual, nor the internet.

Does anybody have any idea why Canon deleted that function, and more important, how to get it back?? Noting has taken the place, it's just a blank field when I press the shutter button half way on the 7DII.

You can see the pic's below to understand what I mean.



7DII


5DIII


I'm sorry if there are faults in my post, but English isn't my native language and I haven't been on a forum for a long time now.

All the best,

Laurens

First, I may have placed this in a thread / topic in which it don't belong. Feel free to inform me or move it (if you have such powers). Was the best I could figure out for now, and no search returned anything showing the same or similar content.

For those who want to waste a few hours, or if you just need to know all and everything about what can be found inside a typical CR2 file and which structure it has, then you might enjoy some information found here -> http://lclevy.free.fr/cr2/
It is presented as a work in progress, so take it for what it is.

There should be some "But I knew that already", a few "Oh, that's interesting", and perhaps even a "Bah, who cares".

Found this video on Youtube this evening, South African photographer Roger Machin shows the new 100-400mm at about 18:00 minutes in. Looks very similar to the 70-300 in operation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecqOqE4Ck8Y I don't think I've been this excited for a lens update in a long time!

I currently own a T3i and want to photograph my son at his wrestling meets. I know the f/2.8 will work with the T3i. However, would the f/4 allow me to still upgrade to the 7dII? Will the improved focusing and iso quality allow the f/4 to function well inside of a gym? I know that the f/2.8 will create a nicer background but I am willing to make some compromise with this. Thanks.

As an Adobe Creative Live annual subscriber I'm disappointed that Apple beat Adobe to the finish line by providing their Digital Camera RAW update to support several new cameras including the 7D Mark II. I have, for the moment, switched back to Aperture for post processing. If Apple had not announced that they have stopped further development of Aperture I might make it a permanent switch back, sigh.

Sample RAW image from 7D Mark II processed in Aperture:


Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos) by Tony Varela Photography, on Flickr

For image quality, which would you prefer/recommend: 6D (FF & low-light capability) with a 1.4X converter or the new 7D2 (at native resolution, without a converter).

I have the 300/4L, 135/2L & 50/1.4 - it is the 50mm performance that I am most interested in (70mm @ 2.0 with converter, versus effective 80mm @ 1.4).

Short story:
I have the 7D and will almost certainly upgrade to the 7D2. I mostly use the 135L lens, although the 300 would be more useful to me on FF than it is at the moment. I find the 7D/300 combo limiting due to the lighting situation, and believe the 7D2 would give a significant improvement for my typical use.

If I buy the 7D2, I will sell the 7D, but I am also considering the 6D "at some stage". What are your thoughts?

Long story:
I used to have numerous items of 35mm kit, including AE-1, AV-1 & various typical and mediocre lenses. My former favourite was the T90 & 85/1.8 prime. I am fairly used to judging my required shot with a prime, rather than a zoom.

Having moved up through various digital models, including early 'point & shoot' to the 20D & 7D, I am now looking for my final camera body. I've rented the 5D3, and would love a 1Dx, but have ruled that out financially.

As for lenses, I thought I wanted the 400/2.8L, but after using it, I know it's too big. The 200/2.0L was also on 'the list', but again is too bulky. My future lens purchases are now probably the 35/1.4L (for FF) or temporarily the new EF-S 24/2.8. The 70-200/2.8 non-IS is also a possibility.

Based on my existing lenses, and possibly the wish list, which combination will give me the best quality images: the 6D with converter, or the 7D2? I've ruled out the 2.0X, the 5D3 and most other zooms/primes. Having two bodies offers an advantage, and I realise there are other considerations (AF being the main one).

Maybe the question should be, which do I buy first: the 6D or the 7D2? I know the 7D is more suited to my typical shoot.

Many thanks.

I can imagine that getting rid of that huge clunky mirror would be welcomed. Hopefully, it would use the same lenses and body, just minus the mirror. Its not a sports camera, so lightening fast AF is not required. In a studio, a LCD monitor will work fine to compose. I'm not sure what options might be coming for landscape photographers who work in the daylight. Perhaps a EVF?

You can probably get one starting at $43,000 for the beginner model

http://www.dpreview.com/articles/9012734727/phase-one-to-introduce-a-series-mirrorless-medium-format-camera-system

Canon EF 500mm f5.6L IS.

For bird and wildlife photographers who can't afford the f4.
Like to regularly hand hold their equipment in the wild
A sharp prime weighing less than a 300 f2.8
Enough reach without convertors and their associated drop in AF speed and IQ

Costing $2.5k

Just a thought

The clock is ticking down....2hrs away. I'm excited and nervous at the same time, since this is my 1st time shooting a wedding.

I have been asked by a co-worker to photograph his wedding. I'll be the primary photographer and more likely the only one there.

Gear I packed:
1. 5D III + 1DX + dual BR strap
2. 16-35 f4 IS, 24-70 f2.8 II, 85L II, and of course 70-200 f2.8 IS II
3. 600EX-RT(x3) + ST-E3-RT, 20plus spare AA batteries
4. Umbrella + stand

Wish me luck guys

Hey!
I'm not familiar to the Canon ecosystem and I'm not sure what choice is wiser. So if you guys could give me some advice, it'l be highly appreciated.
If there is a new FF Canon on the horizon, how long do you think until release, based on experience with previous Canon releases in the past?
What would you do if you were like me - wait or risk and buy, and then sell it cheaper if new FF body is released eventually (can't afford to have two bodies)?
There are good 6D deals now(5Dmk3 is ridiculously overpriced, even the second hand deals).

Cheers!

I have a recurring problem in my workflow where i transfer images from cf to sd in camera, but the camera gives an error about card transfer history.

This seems to happen after i format both cards in camera, and after a while it goes away and i can again transfer images in camera.

The trouble is that when i am on location with my ipad, i have no way of reviewing the images on a larger screen. The ipad only takes sd, and i only shoot to cf.

Does anyone know a solution to this problem?

A Google search later, it seems that the last non telephoto primes lenses released, were the 17mm TSE, 24mm TSE and the 100mm L Macro in 2009.

I believe it's fair to say these lenses are extraordinary in performance, with few faults.

But I'm beginning to wonder, just how far Canon can turn up the performance dial for any new prime they intend to release?

When I began photography three years back, a common bit of wisdom I found was that primes are just better than zooms and this was due to the simplified engineering required.
Then along comes 4 zooms, 16-35 f/4.0L IS, 24-70 f/2.8L ii, 70-200 f/2.8L ii & the 200-400 that had reviewers saying something along the lines of "this zoom performs good enough to make me sell any prime lens covered by that range."

I'm paraphrasing there, don't sue me ;D

So back to the subject of what a brand new prime could bring to the table.
1. Sharpness from corner to corner at largest aperture
2. Contrast
3. Autofocus
4. Colour rendering
5. Bokeh/Aperture blades
6. Image Stabilization
7. Size/Weight/Filterability

Canon's latest zooms are a strong indication that the engineering process has become highly refined and that the next primes should truly shine.

I feel that Canon's next L prime should be able to deliver astounding image quality and simultaneously consign issues such as jittery or slow AF, sterile contrast and any fringing to the past.

I received a CL offer to trade the New in Box 24-70L f/4 IS Lens I have listed to sell for a used 100-400 L Lens. No box on the 100-400, just the Caps, Hood and Tripod Mount. It sounds like another photographer that is making the offer.

My question to the forum is, would you do it? (From a value and selling perspective, not a lens comparison perspective.) And are there any known issues with the 100-400 L that I should be aware of and check for specifically when I inspect it?

I'm thinking it's possible the used 100-400 L might actually sell faster and for maybe more money than the 24-70 f/4 IS (even New).

Thanks in Advance.

Rusty

I've sent my 1DX into to Canon because the focus points/screen in the viewfinder are misaligned from the actual AF points.

Reading these threads on CR, it appears that I have a misaligned Transmissive LCD:

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=21897.0

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=14854.0

I wrote a detailed letter indicating to Canon what the problem is and that the Transmissive LCD needs adjusting, showing both a diagram of the focus point misalignment as well as pictures of the focus points in LiveView and the ViewFinder not aligning.

I received the following email from Canon:

"we don't have anything remotely going by the name "transmissive lcd" in the photography world, I have to give the tech more descriptive information that we are used to using here. I googled "transmissive lcd" to find out what it is you had in mind, and the closest thing that comes to that is the focusing screen that you see through the viewfinder. Built into that screen is what we consider an "SI Plate" (Super impose) which is what you are seeing when the red lights appear to show you where your focusing point is.

I have adjusted the notes to the tech, but I am also including a schematic I would like you to take a look at. It is a break down of the inside of the camera showing the viewfinder assembly (pentaprism) and the placement of the focusing screen. If you would like me to add more details, I would really appreciate it if you could reference what you are seeing in this diagram, it would be beyond helpful."


If Canon doesn't know what the Transmissive LCD is, then going by the camera schematic attached, what can I tell them to adjust?

Good afternoon everyone.

Here in Washington State, actually - closer to Portland, Or, we're blessed with having several mountains in such proximity. Anyways...I wanted to share a couple of mountain photographs I took since moving here.

If you have any of your own, please feel free to post them. Oh...and I threw in a waterfall one.

See if you can guess its name.

I wouldn't buy a retro-looking DSLR like this, Nikon or otherwise, but I don't mind the trim on this; I think they've pulled off less is more.

http://petapixel.com/2014/11/14/nikon-announces-a-gold-adorned-model-of-its-black-nikon-df-in-japan/

Jim

For those still using Aperture, Apple released a new version of Digital Camera Raw yesterday that can read 7D MkII raw files. I tried it last night and it works. Two weeks of shooting JPGs only, finally I can work with the Raw images. Now I'm waiting for Lightroom to follow suit.

I bought a new Canon imageClass MF4890dw multifunction unit about a year ago.

I am mostly pleased with it, altho it is a typical Japanese product: good hardware marred by mediocre software and user interface.

One of the prime reasons that I bought this model is that comes with an ADF (auto document feeder) that can be used to automatically scan double sided documents. In theory, this is an amazing capability when you need to scan a bunch of pages.

Unfortunately, I have found that whenever I scan a page using the ADF, that lines of text appear to tilt down to the right.

This defect is limited to the ADF--if I scan a single page by putting it on the platen glass, there is no such tilting.

My guess is that this tilting is produced by the fact that the paper is being continuously moved thru the machine as the scanning head travels the width of the page. If this horizontal traversal was fast enough, the tilting would be minimized, but in reality, it is not.

Does anyone know what really causes this tilting?

Is there any way to fix it (e.g. some scanner setting that I overlooked)?

If my theory above is correct, then a smart scanner could correct for it by doing an image correction calculation.

At work, our high end Brother MFC does scans that have no such tilting, so I know that good scans are possible in practice.

It's winter and if you live someplace warm, you might just have Winter Baseball.

Untitled by RexPhoto91, on Flickr

Untitled by RexPhoto91, on Flickr

Untitled by RexPhoto91, on Flickr

Untitled by RexPhoto91, on Flickr

Untitled by RexPhoto91, on Flickr

Every day I am discovering something new with the 7D2..well at least new to me so thought I would start a thread on custom settings that you swear by and why you like them.

The first I would like to share is the re-assignment of one of the back buttons (I used the AE lock button) to assign a recall of a custom setting. Here you can register any number of settings to instantly load at the push of a button. So if that's not enough, you can also assign an AF mode. For this button I unchecked all of the options except for AF area selection mode. I assign this to spot focus.

Now when I am in zone AF or 65 point or any other mode tracking a bird in the open and need to suddenly stick pick my shot I can just press the AE (*) button and I get an instant spot to focus on.

I am also playing around with the reverse. It gets tricky when you need to manually move the spot However I am finding this new feature pretty useful.

Please share what you have found.

Just a warning.

When you insert your memory card be carefull.
I managed to kill my brand new 7D MK2 today when i was puting a memory card in it.

Dear my teachers and all of my dear friends.
Yes, I have my EF 100-400 L IS for long, long time, Yes, I use this lovely big baby for Birds Photography, and Bring her on my trip around the world---But that before I get EF 600 mm.
Yes, Now I use 70-200 mm L IS and EF 600 Mm to shoot birds 2-3 time per year.
Yes, my old Baby EF 100-400 L IS, Pull and Push slide, sit in the Dry case/ storage past 2 years.
Sir, Yes, When the rumor of new and better EF 100-400 mm MK II will come this Dec.---My GAS. Illness start to ruin my Feeling again, BUT after I see the Chart Below---My, Low Tech Brain tell me that= Yes, The New Model is better at 400 mm---BUT for me that I not a birds/ Wild Life Photographer ( Who shoot long distant 2-3 time per year) and not worth it.
No, I never sell my old Photographic equipment before in my life, Just put the old/ un use in the equipment storage.
NOW, The question is = Am I stupid enough ??? , If I buy the new 100-400 mm , MK II ?---Or just make me a happy/ stupid man again.
Thank you, Sir/ Madam.
Surapon

I searched around a bit but didn't really find what I was looking for... apologies in advance if there is already a thread for this and I missed it, or if this should have been posted in a different forum. Please guide me to it if so.

I have the 100-400 V1 lens and have used it happily for the last year or so. I've read several snippets and forum posts about having a "sharp copy" etc. Compared to my older film days lenses, this lens seems as sharp or sharper than any long zoom I've owned in the past.

My question is this: how do you "know" if your lens is sharp? I feel like mine is... are there any good example photos that show that you might not have a sharp copy out there? What does a sharp copy's photo look like vs a not sharp copy?