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Canon 24-70 f/2.8II lens hood

I'm lucky to still have the lens hood for my Canon 24-70 f/2.8II. At a large function last night the head waiter came up to me with the hood and asked, "is this yours?" This has happened at least half a dozen times now, often returned by function staff. Even when properly attached and checked, it comes off pretty easily.

It's a relatively minor issue, but I'm curious to know whether this is an isolated case or if it's a design flaw. I'm tempted to get a few eBay clone hoods to use and keep the original in the cupboard!

-pw

New EdMika Polymer FD to EF conversion kit

Mini-Review for the new EdMika Polymer FD to EF conversion kits.

Canon's Manual Focus FD lenses are legendary for sharpness, color, and contrast. Many people have discovered how well they work on various Mirror-less and 4/3 camera systems using simple ad-on adapters that go between the lens and the camera.

Unfortunately there is no way to use a simple adapter with EOS camera without adding corrective optics which destroy the image quality. EDMika recognized this a long time ago and has been developing individual conversion kits for EOS cameras.

I was scanning through the various ebay listings and came across EdMika's new Polymer mount conversion/converter/adapter kits.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xedmika&_nkw=edmika&_sacat=0&_from=R40

He has recently added many more conversion kits for the FDn (New FD mount) series lenses and they are no longer made of Brass. The text of his ebay listing describes his reasoning for the change in material, and I think it is a good move. The Brass kits were extremely well made but they were heavy. I bet that in some cases the new brass mounts were heavier than the lens they were going on. The brass color also didn't really match the chrome plating of the camera mount and could also cause light reflections near the sensor.

These new Polymer mounts are also extremely well made, weigh almost nothing, and are completely black in color. I really appreciate the weight savings when I use the lens with my SL1. I am sure users with larger cameras will feel the same way.

I ordered the kit for the FDn 50mm 1.4 and it arrived in just 3 days. The package includes a new mount, "Ed Bushing" (to engage the aperture), and a EdMika EOS lens cap.

The kit does not come with any instructions so you have to watch all the videos on the ebay listing page to get a good idea of how the various FDn lenses are taken apart and them assembled with the new mount. The kit is very easy to install and fits really well.

Here is the video that applies to to FDn 50mm 1.4 because it uses the "Ed Bushing" that replaces part of the original aperture linkage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ats-wQOkreY

In my photos I show the partially assembled lens with the old silver colored ring beside the lens and the new "Ed Bushing" installed in position. The "Ed Bushing" is also black in color and made of the same Polymer material.

The new Polymer rear lens cap is interesting, and lower in profile, but I think I prefer the standard Canon cap.

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Develop Announcement for an EF 800 f/5.6L IS II Coming This Fall? [CR1]

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<p>We’re told that a development announcement for a new EF 800mm f/5.6L IS II can be expected in the fall/late summer. There was even a suggestion that the current version is no longer in production. There was no mention of when that may have ended, nor can we confirm that piece of information.</p>
<p>We’ve heard previously that a new 800mm was coming and that Canon will be moving it to the new lightweight materials used in the latest versions of the 300,400, 500 and 600mm lenses. There would also be other improvements in optics, autofocus and IS.</p>
<p>If it does come this fall/late summer, expect it before Photokina starts in September.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00132FXOW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00132FXOW&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20" target="_blank">Canon EF 800mm f/5.6L IS at Amazon</a></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Understanding Video Autofocus

I rarely shoot video, but was messing around with it today (5D3). I noticed that, if I try to autofocus in video (and probably live view stills too, but I haven't verified), it gets significantly brighter while achieving focus, even if I'm already shooting wide open. What causes that to happen? Does it momentarily drop the frame rate? Can it be avoided? It looks extremely jarring.

Thanks

Share your inexpensive accessories that made your gear productive or look cool

Thought of starting this thread to talk about inexpensive non-electronic replacement accessories (as opposed to the expensive OEM accessories e.g. tripod collars, lens hoods, lens caps etc etc etc) that make our camera gear a bit more productive or just look cool. I thought of this as I just received 2 new White lens hoods for my EF 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II & EF 10--400 L IS lenses ... here are a few pics ... I already have the original black lens hoods that came with the lenses, but I kinda prefer the white hoods, that are found on the higher end Canon L lenses ... this is my "poor man's attempt" of trying to make my 70-200 & 100-400 lenses look like "limited/special edition" ones ;D
I paid US$ 29 for both of them ... while the original Canon versions cost around US$ 93 ... me thinks the cheaper white ones look cooler.

EDIT: I removed the non-electronic part as several members have already posted some good electronic alternatives, so I thought why limit this thread only to non-electronic accessories ... post whatever caught your fancy.

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My Canon Story

Back in the 70s as a young teenager I received my first Canon from my dad, an AE-1 with a power winder. Two frames per second! Woohoo! It served me well and if it wasn't stolen I'd still have it today. In my late teens I acquired the F1n and shot sports for a small town newspaper, that's it on the left in the attached image with a 300 f4 FD. Awesome camera and built like a tank. Up to five fps with the motor drive and a switch on it to rewind the film! The body even worked without a battery from 1/125 to 1/2000 IIRC. X-sync was at 1/90 and I think 1/60 on the AE1.

I also acquired a used T90, cool little camera that served me well until it was stolen along with the AE1. The theft happened quite some time after Canon introduced the EOS system. I was a bit pissed when they changed the lens mount and vowed not to switch. Since most of my lenses were also stolen I broke that vow after considering Nikon and decided to stick with Canon and got the EOS 3 with the 300 4L you see in the pic and also a 28-105 lens. The 3 is such an elegant camera, simple and ergonomic and the eye control focus was brilliant. If I could have any Canon film camera from the past with a digital back, it would be the 3. Along with the PJ I also did event stuff until I got sick of it and quit and went to work in construction.

When digital came around I bought the original digital rebel just to have fun with it. That's the third camera from the left with the 28-105 on it. Weird lens on a crop body but it was good enough at the time. I didn't buy another digital camera until the G9 (that's it sitting on the typewriter and both still work) and played with that until I bought a Fuji XP1 about a year and a half ago.

That leads me to my latest Canon, the 6D with the 24-105L. Just got it today and I was quite surprised at the heft of the lens compared to the 28-105 and the Fugi stuff. It was hard to resist the B&H/Amazon deal at 2k for both.

I've shot a few events with the Fuji and found I didn't hate it as much as I had in the past. Not sure how much I'll get back into that, don't want to repeat history. There's nothing worse that doing something you love and have it start to feel like a job. But a few jobs will help pay off the new stuff.

I'm curious to see the IQ difference between the 28-105 and the L, haha. I've been playing with the 6 in my dark living room and I think the AF complaints are quite exaggerated, seems pretty snappy to me, (granted, it's not real world), especially compared to the XP1. The Fuji is good in normal light but does struggle in low light at times. Some friends are doing a tough mudder next month and I can't wait to see how it does but for the most part I do landscapes and a bit of urban stuff. I also want to try it with starscapes, thinking about getting the Sammy 14 for that.

Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

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How to reset focus point to the center point on 6D?

I've been driven crazy by this: Is there a quick way to one-press jump from any focus point to the center focus point on 6D? On my old 5D Mark 2 I can simply press down the muti-way controller. On 1D Mark 2 there is a quick reset button that quickly resets the focus point. But on 6D I have not found a way to do it. I want to use the "set" button to do this but can not find out how.

Please advise. Thanks!

Calumet Photo Files Chapter 7 Bankruptcy

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<p>Calumet Photographic, a 75 year old chain of retail stores in the United States and Europe has filed chapter 7 bankruptcy. The European stores will remain operational, but all the US stores are closed.</p>
<p><strong>From Calumet Photo’s Facebook Page

</strong><em>“After 75 years of business it is with a heavy heart that we announce our immediate closing in the United States (our European stores will continue). It has been a joy to share our passion for photography with you all of these years. We’ll miss each other and we’ll miss all of our customers. Thank you for everything.”<strong>

</strong></em></p>
<p><strong>Employees were not warned</strong>

Apparently Calumet gave employees no warning of the closure and loss of their jobs. PetaPixel has an <a href="http://petapixel.com/2014/03/13/exclusive-calumet-employee-reveals-happening-behind-scenes/" target="_blank">exclusive interview with a Calumet employee</a>.</p>
<p><em>“According to my coworker, management was notified of this decision late last night, and told not to open for work the next day. My friend is still waiting to hear when/if he will be allowed to go back to the store and collect some personal belongings left on his desk.”</em></p>
<p>Our best wishes go out to all the Calumet employees in the US, I’ve always been treated well when I’ve visited.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://petapixel.com/2014/03/13/calumetphoto-us-declared-bankruptcy-gave-employees-zero-notice/" target="_blank">Read More at PetaPixel</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Nikon 1 v3: servo af @20fps w/ 105 af points + 40 raw buffer ...

Fyi: Mirrorless seems to gain ground, are the days of the high-speed flipping mirror almost over? Interesting to imagine what will be in the v4 if they keep improving these with the current speed...

http://www.nikon.com/news/2014/0313_dslr_01.htm

The superior performance with tracking of moving subjects is made possible with 105 focus points when phase-detection AF is used and 171 focus points when contrast-detect AF is used. 105 densely packed focus points positioned over a broad range of the frame ensure precise acquisition of moving subjects. At approximately 20 fps, the Nikon 1 V3 also boasts the world's fastest*1 high-speed continuous shooting rate with AF tracking, as well as high-speed continuous shooting at up to approximately 60 fps when focus is locked. This, as well as the world's shortest*3 shooting time lag ensures fast and precise focusing on moving subjects. What's more, the Nikon 1 V3 offers an operational system that users of digital SLRs will find familiar. It is also the first Nikon 1 camera to be equipped with a vari-angle LCD monitor that enables flexible shooting from any angle, new intuitive touch-screen control that is easy to use, and built-in Wi-Fi® capability for simple transfer and sharing of high-quality images.

Some advice about my new (2nd) 5D3 please.

hello,

having sold my 5D2 I bought a 5D3. I made some tests to check it but due to bad weather and work I did not have the chance to use it. So now I tried to test it again.

It works fine but I noticed 2 things:

1. There is a infinitessimally small dot on the glass of the back LCD. It is just a dot
and can be seen only when the LCD is off.

I mentioned it and I was offered an exchange.

However, since I will have to pay the courier I guess it will cost (with insurance) more than 50 euros.

Any suggestions? (since it is very very small and can be seen only when LCD is off)

2. The image counter seemed a little over 500 while I had shot less than 10. But I do not
remember whether I had formated the CF I put in the camera before using it.

Could this be the cause?

They claimed that this is the cause.

Accurate Color Capture

im an engineer working under R&D. im not a rocket scientist. im studying fluorescence of material. Fluorescence is, in my term, when you illuminate a given sample single wavelength of light, the sample absorbs this light energy and in return it glows or gives of light with color.

Now I am using a DSLR camera to capture the fluorescence of a given material, to record it. I don't know how to construct my questions. Many factors: Different Camera, different settings, will produce different color output as seen by naked eye, also depends on the screen, screen settings. white balance?? and etc.

With all of this factors, how can I narrow down, or make these variables constant as much as possible such that i can compare color output, any given time.

What are the factors that affects the color being output by the camera. Also does HSB, (Hue, Saturation, Brigthness) plays important role in this topic?

Thanks.

Which Tele for Animals

im looking for a tele lens for shooting some animals
i dont earn money for it. its just my hobby.so i can´t buy a 600mm =(

It should be one of these

Tamron 70-200 2,8 VC USD ( pro´s 2.8 con´s : only 200mm )
Canon 70-300L 4-5,6 IS USM ( pro´s : light weight con´s : -)
Canon 100-400 4,5-5,6L IS USM ( pro´s : 400mm con´s : heavy )
Tamron 150-600 5-6,3 DI VC USD ( pro´s : 600mm , price con´s : heavy )

maybe u have another lens for me

Sry for my english :)

Which Canon teleconverter should I get, the 1.4x iii or the 2x iii?

I shot a play a few weeks ago and my 70-200mmii/5Diii performed admirably, but I found myself wanting a little more reach in the outer aisles of the theater. I've been thinking about getting a teleconverter for awhile but I'm not sure which one to get. I'm leaning towards the 1.4x because I don't think I really need a ton more reach (no wildlife, just events), I don't want to sacrifice much IQ if any at all, and I don't really like the thought of giving up two stops. It's hard to resist the extra reach of the 2x though seeing as how they cost the same price! The IQ penalty is probably my primary consideration but I've read varying testimonies regarding the 1.4 versus the 2x.

What's your advice based on your experience with both? I did a few forum searches and didn't find any threads that had the input I was looking for... please post up a link if you know of one. Thanks in advance for your input!

New Full Frame E-mount cameras to be launched within the next 5-6 months

Sonalpharumors reports the following rumor with a SR5 rating (i.e. "almost certainly correct!")

(SR5) New Full Frame E-mount cameras to be launched within the next 5-6 months (likely at Photokina).
I can confirm via multiple trusted sources that Sony will launch new Full Frame E-mount cameras within the next 5-6 months. I guess it means they will be launched right before the Photokina September show. NONE(!) of them will be a replacement of the current A7 and A7r models. All we know for sure about these new models is that they will have an advanced hybrid AF system similar to what we got inside the newly announced Sony A6000.

The surprises: I can already tell you that there will be many more cameras in the months to come (RX and Alpha and E-mount). I am working on those rumors right now….be patient ;)


http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sr5-new-full-frame-e-mount-cameras-to-be-launched-within-the-next-5-6-months-likely-at-photokina/

That is a very interesting development, coz the a6000 auto focus system has received a lot of praise from pretty much every photographer who got their hands on it ... and from what I've seen on youtube videos, it does seem to be awesome ... and to have it on a full frame camera (which might be priced modestly) is even more awesome ... exciting times.

Best Quality Professional Printing in Sydney?

Hi there Sydney area pros etc,

My Wife has a collection that has been selected as one of the feature artists in the upcoming Head On Photo festival in Sydney http://www.headon.com.au/

she will be exhibiting in one of the main galleries and we are currently in china but are based in perth, she was planning on using a perth printer she uses regularly but then has to transport 30 or so large prints to sydney to exhibit

so I was thinking its probably better to just send the images to sydney and have them printed there so looking for the absolute best most reliable pro print house there is in sydney. Its all low key mix of colour and black and white, will need to be on high end fine art paper I guess.

so give us your recommendations please :D

sorry can't post the images as they are politically sensitive and NSFW and she would not allow me to put them up here :D

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Overcoming the lack of Exposure control in Manual Mode 5D Mark III..ideas?

Outside of shelling out 6800 USD for a 1DX, I am curious if any of you have found a good work around for the lack of Exposure control in Manual Mode on the 5D Mark III. I've been reading up on Magic Lantern but don't see (at this point) a way to override and offer control of this feature.

This frustration comes when shooting Birds which are back lit. Av mode is great when DOF control is needed which is almost always especially if a bird is at close range and positioned diagonal or any position other than horizontal. Tv Mode is excellent of course if a bird is in flight or in motion so that you can determine the shutter speed yet both fall short of what each others' mode doesn't have yet they both offer Exposure compensation. Manual Mode is therefore the best choice to get your DOF and Shutter selection however there's no control of Exposure Compensation for back lit subjects. Evaluative Mode seems the best for metering especially when choosing AF Expansion Mode for in flight tracking. Oddly, I've found that Exposure can be utilized in M mode if using bracketing but why take 3 shots to get one and add all those shutter counts to the camera? I only shoot in RAW and can correct some of this in Light Room but then the image suffers from graininess when EV is at 0 in M mode.

Perhaps some of you may have your own techniques which I'd be very interested in learning. Looking forward to any suggestions or thoughts on this and my searches here in the forum don't show much on previous threads regarding this issue.

Thanks in advance

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