I have a 6D, ef 15, ef 8-15, Sigma 24-105 Art, ef 70-200 2.8 II, 2 x TC III, and soon 300 2.8 IS II. Will someday have ef 16-35 f/4 and Sigma 50 1.4 Art.

Is FoCal worth the time, effort and money?
http://www.reikan.co.uk/focalweb/index.php/why/about-focal/

Will it work with TC's? Are the adjustments made to the body or lens? Are the adjustments specific to each lens?

I'd rather buy the box than download since I upgrade computers pretty frequently.

Opinions appreciated.

Okay, just bought a Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM Image Stabilizer. Never had a camera with a drop in filter before. Half the reason (or more?) I bought filters before was to protect the lens. Is a good haze filter (or other filters) good for drop-in on this lens, or is it just more glass to distort the image and decrease transmission? Can you just do as well in post-processing in DxO? Or, do the benefits of drop-in filters outweigh the negatives? Opinions appreciated. Thx.

http://www.dpreview.com/galleries/reviewsamples/photos/3041439/g7x-iso1600-img_0042?inalbum=canon-powershot-g7-x-photo-gallery

There are some shots @ higher Iso. IMO, the IQ @ 1600 Iso is a little bit weak. Or am I wrong? Do I expect to much from the G7?

I would like to buy an small camera one for my grandson

So I've finally given up waiting for the new L tilt-shifts and have decided to grab either the current 45mm or 90mm. Right now I'm thinking I'm gonna go with the 90mm because I want it more for portraits, but the 45mm is still calling my name as I see it as a more versatile lens.

Thoughts?

I deleted the my topic on this forum by mistake So I'm starting again

Press conference with Andrew Golota
Canon 6D + Canon 300mm 2.8 IS L USM

1 ISO 1600, 1/320, 300mm, 2.8

2 ISO 1600, 1/320, 300mm, 2.8


Impel Wrocław vs Pałac Bydgoszcz
Canon 6D + Canon 300mm 2.8 IS L USM + Canon 100mm 2.0 USM


3 ISO 2500, 1/1000, 300mm, 2.8


4 ISO 2500, 1/1000, 300mm, 2.8


5 ISO 2500, 1/1000, 300mm, 2.8


6 ISO 1000, 1/1000, 100mm, 2.0

So, right now I have a 40D, I really have no complaints about the performance of the autofocus or burst fire rate, and the image quality is fine when there is enough light. I do find the colors look a little flat straight out of the camera, and the dynamic range is lacking compared to what I've seen out of the newer stuff out there. Been shooting with it for 7 years, and this is the first time I've felt like my technology is holding me back. I've got some decent glass..(27-70 and 70-200 2.8 L zooms and a 50 1.4 prime) I mostly shoot vacation stuff, family, some portraits, some street photography, and lately some bicycle racing. I mostly shoot cyclocross, because that's when I'm in the environment with enough time to shoot (ie not racing myself the whole time i'm at the race) in CX the speeds are pretty low even the pros are in the low 20mph range, and the course is fairly predictable (riding between taped of segments). Having found no shortcomings in the AF of my 40d, I've been leaning towards a 6D, so I can get a significant bump in image quality, and gain some modern functionality (GPS tagging would be nice because the races are all over the place). But there's the nagging "sports" qualifier there, and the 7Dii has framerateand autofocus in spades, but I'm not too sure that it'd be enough of a boost to image quality to justify the purchase.

tl;dr
have a 40d, shoot predictable sports, already have nice glass
want a 6D for best image quality/$
7Dii is best sports shooter in my budget
which one to buy?

What phone do you use? and do you like the camera?

Currently on a really tricked out Note 3 and I love the 4K footage in good light. 8)

Whenever I switch my 600rt flash from M to ETTL, the flash makes me cycle through these strange modes as there's no way (I know of) to disable them altogether. And I'm always wondering: How uses these anyway?

I hope a lot of people participate so we can get an impression if these exotic flash modes are dead weight (ext.whatever) or legacy modes (multi) that were useful before you could blend images in postprocessing.

Feel free to elaborate what your application is if you happen to use anything beyond ettl and m!

I love photographing wild animal. I have been able to do some shots. I love all these three pictures but I cannot decide which is my favorite. Maybe the thrid... And you?

Photo #1 Rosalie


Photo #2 Marius


Photo #3 Marius & Rosalie

(Please excuse any unintentional etiquette errors: I posted this in another topic link and I shall remove that one.)

Colleagues:
I bought a Sigma 50 Art. I am not at all happy with the focus: it is gorgeously, excruciatingly sharp ... about 1/3 of the time. My standards for "sharp" are pretty high, and my reference lenses are the new 70-200 and 24-70. I am a thoroughly experienced photographer with decades of work behind me.
I am utterly baffled; I never, ever have this problem with other lenses; I have never, for instance, used microfocus adjustment on my 5D3 or 1Dx for my reference lenses. Here are a couple of photos from the other day, and I was focusing on the inner corner of the left eye (the 'medial canthus.') By the way, re. the girl with horns, do not adjust your set, you are not hallucinating: the dots on the cornea are contact lenses ... I will leave these up for a few days. Your thoughts deeply appreciated.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/johnrudoff/sets/72157648392663316/

F&V R-300 ring light - has anyone used this?

http://www.fvlighting.com/

If so, were you pleased?

Thanks!

Red Panda, Lake District Wildlife Park, Bassenthwaite Lake, Keswick, Cumbria UK

http://www.lakedistrictwildlifepark.co.uk

5DMKIII 70-300mm L

Red Panda, Lake District Wildlife Park, Bassenthwaite, Keswick by TomScottPhoto, on Flickr

Red Panda, Lake District Wildlife Park, Bassenthwaite, Keswick by TomScottPhoto, on Flickr

Red Panda, Lake District Wildlife Park, Bassenthwaite, Keswick by TomScottPhoto, on Flickr

Red Panda, Lake District Wildlife Park, Bassenthwaite, Keswick by TomScottPhoto, on Flickr

Red Panda, Lake District Wildlife Park, Bassenthwaite, Keswick by TomScottPhoto, on Flickr

Red Panda, Lake District Wildlife Park, Bassenthwaite, Keswick by TomScottPhoto, on Flickr

The red panda (Ailurus fulgens), also called lesser panda and red cat-bear, is a small arboreal mammal native to the eastern Himalayas and south-western China that has been classified as vulnerable by IUCN as its wild population is estimated at less than 10,000 mature individuals. The population continues to decline and is threatened by habitat loss and fragmentation, poaching, and inbreeding depression, although red pandas are protected by national laws in their range countries.

The red panda is slightly larger than a domestic cat. It has reddish-brown fur, a long, shaggy tail, and a waddling gait due to its shorter front legs. It feeds mainly on bamboo, but is omnivorous and also eats eggs, birds, insects, and small mammals. It is a solitary animal, mainly active from dusk to dawn, and is largely sedentary during the day.

The red panda is the only living species of the genus Ailurus and the family Ailuridae. It has been previously placed in the raccoon and bear families, but results of phylogenetic research indicate strong support for its taxonomic classification in its own family Ailuridae, which along with the weasel family is part of the superfamily Musteloidea. Two subspecies are recognized. It is not closely related to the giant panda.

The red panda is specialized as a bamboo feeder with strong, curved and sharp semi-retractile claws standing inward for grasping of narrow tree branches, leaves and fruit. Like the giant panda, it has a “false thumb” that is an extension of the wrist bone. When descending a tree head-first, the red panda rotates its ankle to control its descent, one of the few climbing species to do so.

Hi everyone...just wanted to share my travel tripod experience.

I had an aluminum 4 section Manfrotto Tripod w/ ball head (5.5 lbs together, folding to about 25"). I was looking to upgrade to a carbon fiber tripod that was easier to lug around. After some research, i decided on the Induro CT113, a three section CF tripod folding to about 22" (without head) and extends to 58" w/ center column extended. Weighing 2lbs, 12oz. I was pretty content with the Induro, lightweight and very sturdy. I had also experienced the joy of twist lock legs, as I have only previously used flip level legs locks. I was actually looking into the Gitzo 1531 Moutaineer, but chose the Induro due to the lower price from a rebate that was going on at the time.

Fast forward to about two weeks ago I saw a Gitzo 1541T on Ebay for a reasonable price. I have read nothing but amazing reviews about this "perfect traveler's tripod." At the price, which I could most likely resell it and make a few $$, I picked it up. It folds down to 16" with the legs reversed, 19" without reversing the legs and a maximum height of 55" with the center column extended. Weighing 2lbs, 2oz. When it first arrived I was skeptical, especially after beginning to extended the legs and seeing how skinny they were. It wasn't until I extended all the legs and twisted them into locking position that i was truly amazing. Though the legs are skinny, I think the locking system (G-Lock?) really provides excellent support. Tthe 3" in height doesn't really make a difference (INSERT "THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID JOKE" HERE) to me. The twists (1/2 turn on the Induro vs. 1/4 turn on the Gitzo) was noticeable. It really is great tripod and I will hang onto it for a while.

I took it out a few times since I got it and its been a pleasure. Small, lightweight and sturdy. Easy to set up with the 1/4 turn leg locks and a really stable once extended.

Conclusion: I have read tons of reviews about competitors to Gitzo...and the majority of people are happy with their tripod claiming that Gitzo price premiums are for the name and that there are tripods that are just as good out there for a fraction or a fraction of the price...I beg to differ. Gitzo makes great products. I was really impressed with the 1541T and for its purposes, I will hand onto it for a while. All I need now is a good lightweight ballhead...looking at the Markins Q3T.

Don't like Canon's never ending firmware crippling game? Want 4k? Fyi: "AXIOM Beta: The first open digital cinema camera"...

The plan is to democratize camera technology and put the power back into the hands of the users. It is a self liberation by creating high end tools that we ourselves love to work with - fully independent of any of the big established camera corporations. The time has never been better for such a revolution than it is today!

Click to expand...

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/axiom-beta-the-first-open-digital-cinema-camera

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=11787.25

I have discovered an annoying bug in firmware 1.2.3 for 5D MK iii.
I am trying to set up a custom mode to allow me good control and at the same time reasonably fast and safe operation. My custom mode is based on Av, Spot metering and focus only with AF-ON button. * button is set to exposure lock M-Fn to electronic level.
My intention is to focus, set aperture, measure light, if intended correct exposure, finally compose, checking the leveling as part of composing if appropriate.
The problem: Pressing the M-Fn button cancel the exposure lock.
Do anybody know about a workaround or who to contact in Canon to get this fixed in a future firmware release?

Hello,
I recently sold off all of my Canon gear - a range of L lenses and a 1DS III. Please don't berate me for this! The plan was to sit on the cash and invest in something small for travelling early next year. However it's now occurred to me that my travels can be delayed but I would need to invest in some quality gear for the more immediate future.

I have retained my EOS M kit but with the exception of the 22mm, the lenses aren't up to the job. I come mainly from a landscape and press background but I'm keen to concentrate on natural light portraiture. I need superb sharpness at wide apertures (<2.8) primes in a range not lower than 22mm and not longer than 200mm in a system with extremely low noise below ISO800.

System brand isn't important to me now, so I'm keen to explore all options. I'd love to go mirrorless if possible but open to all suggestions. Should I keep the M and add a suite of EF lenses to it or should I consider another system? My only concern with the M is the lack of viewfinder.

So there it is - if you were no longer tied to a brand and needed noiseless sharp images from a few fast primes, preferably in a reasonably portable system, where would you be looking?

Thanks for your time.

Any idea what this may be about?
seeimpossible.usa.canon.com
This was on a two-page spread ad in the New York Times today in the front section.
The website has 45 hours left on a countdown timer...

So I attended a Canon sponsored PhotoMob in Cape Town and briefly handled the 7Dii.

So speaking to probably the most senior Canon guy on the African continent, I got this info from him:

1. 2-3 stops better ISO performance over the original 7D.
2. ISO 3200 performance is a touch better than ISO 800 on the original.

Disclaimer: He is a Canon man and most things said are probably pitch but there we go.

Hi,
I've been trying a few long exposure shots lately, mainly nighttime photos and a few questions came up
where I'm not sure about the correct answers. Please bear with me if they seem bleeding obvious to you :-[

1. Talking to a guy with a 6D, he assured me that on the 6D that auto lighting optimizer, Long Exposure NR and High ISO speed NR are used, even when shooting RAW. Is that really so? I thought they are never applied when shooting RAW.

2. If I need a 40sec exposure at ISO100 for correct exposure, how do I determine which combination will have the least noise? 20sec at ISO200, 10sec at ISO400? Obviously disregarding any other issues that would speak against a really long exposure, for example wind, etc.

I ask because some really low light exposures at ISO 100 seem very noisy to me.

3. When using a tripod the recommendation is always to switch IS off. When using a tele on long exposures, does it really never help to have IS on? For example at 200mm?

4. What ISO value would you try to never go above on a 5D3 for long exposures?


Cheers Brian

Hello! I am a college student who shoots football and will shoot men's basketball. Photography is purely a hobby for me and I don't intend to make a career out of it. That said, here is my situation:

I had previously been using a 70-200 2.8 non-IS for football, but recently lost access to that. I was also not satisfied with a focal length of 200mm. I am looking for something with more reach. I rented for free from my school's communications department a 75-300mm f/4-5.6 for the most recent football game (a night game) and was quite obviously disappointed with the results. It reminded me how important having a fast lens is.

What I want to do is purchase a telephoto lens for my 6D, (which will probably be replaced with a 70D or 7DII as they are more suited for the type of photography I do).

Here is what I have considered recently:

Tamron 150-600mm f/5-6.3 VC USD - $1070 - Concerned about slowness of this lens. Would be basically unusable during night games and probably basketball as well because of how slow it is. Also concerned about sharpness at 600mm.

Sigma 150-600 f/5-6.3 OS HSM "S" and "C" - $2000 and ~$1000 - Same concern about slowness. IQ is to be seen.

These concerns pointed me in the direction of the Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 OS HSM "S", which costs ~$3500 which is out of my price range, unfortunately. As a result, I am looking at older versions of this lens. I am having some difficulty understanding the versioning of the older versions of this lens. I found a deal on a used Sigma APO 120-300mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM. It costs ~$2300. I am wondering if anyone could offer their advice based on my situation/and/or comment on any of the lenses I mentioned, especially the Sigma APO 120-300mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM.

Thanks!

Hi Everyone,

My daughter almost 2 just ~loves being chased my her daddy~, with my Canon DSLR. So I decided to try to find a camera for her to torment me and everyone else as much as I do.
Do you have any suggestions for me?
The VTech is the one I'm leaning towards
VTech Kidizoom FFP Camera, Pink

Playskool Showcam 2-in-1 Digital Camera and Projector (White)

Any one else purchase one of these for a toddler?

I'm just amazed that they haven't gotten above 1.3M Pixels yet for the kids toys I would have thought that there would be plenty for 5+ MPs for the toy manufacturers to buy up.

thanks for your feedback!

My first camera was a Kodac Instamatic which I no longer have. My second camera was a Canon AE-1 which I still have. My third camera was Canon SX40 HS which I still have. My fourth camera is a Canon 6D.
In hindsight one might say my Instamatic was my travelling camera. I bought it in the 1960's and in 1971 to 1972 I went once around the world with it.
When my son was born in 1977 I decided to upgrade to an SLR in order to take better quality pictures of his growing up and whatever else I might have occasion to photograph. A friend of mine had a Pentax K-1000 so I thought it might make a good camera for me. A saleman in a camera store who had fifteen years experience working in a photo lab suggested my considering the AE-1. He pointed out I could use it in either automatic mode or in manual mode whereas the Pentax could only be used in manual mode. I thought his advice made sense so I bought the AE-1. In time I bought four more lenses for it and a flash that I could use as a bounce flash.
When I finally decided to get a digital camera, I just wanted digital images to view on my computer monitor or tv screen. I chose the SX40 HS because it had a wide zoom range so I didn't need to buy several lenses and it had a hot shoe so I would be able to bounce flash if I purchased an external flash. I considered a DSLR at the time but I learned I could not use my old AE-1 lenses on a modern Canon DSLR. I was also disappointed to learn I could not use my old Canon flash as it was not compatible with modern Canon cameras. After buying the camera, it took me about a year to decide which flash to buy. I bought a 430EX II to use on the SX40 HS.
With the SX40 HS I at least learned how much different digital was compared to film. I was no longer dependent on someone developing my film and someone printing photographs and I didn't need to go back later if I wanted to crop to produce a different print. After about a year with the camera I started to learn more about what the camera couldn't do. After much investigation I decided to make the jump to a full frame. I chose the 6D for its image quality and its lower price (for a full frame).
I, of course, bought the 6D with the 24-105 at the super combined price. I then added the 40mm 2.8 followed by the 200mm 2.8. I then chose to buy the 1.4x III and the 2x III to use on the 200mm instead of buying perhaps one or both of the 300mm f4 IS or the 400mm f5.6 lenses. In addition, along the way, I added the 17-40 when it was on a super deal at over a 25% discount.
So far the 40mm and the 200mm have had the most use on the camera. The 40mm has been used for taking people pictures and the 200mm for taking wildlife pictures. My standard wildlife setup is now the 200mm with the 2x III attached.
When I purchased the 6D I was planning to purchase prime lenses for their IQ and crop in post production to make the prime lens a one-way zoom lens. I was hoping I could heavily crop an image without losing IQ and I am now satisfied to crop to 100% to frame the image as I want (particularly with birds). I am using the DxO software.
Within half an hour from where I live there is an amazing area for wildlife on the shore of Lake Ontario. It's called the Leslie Spit or Tommy Thompson Park. I have spent part of a day there almost every weekend this summer. I have the camera with the 200mm and 2x III set at f8 and 1/1000 with auto ISO. When I get a picture of a new bird or butterfly, I usually need to go look it up on the internet to identify what it is. It's been fun for the outing by the lake in the summer sun, it's been fun to go home and learn from the shots I have taken as well to crop the shots that turned out well and it's been fun to learn more about the wildlife whose pictures I have captured. I have even managed to get some birds in flight in focus with this setup on the 6D.
I continue to learn and that what makes this whole experience fun for me along with the results I am getting.

I know what my next step will be. Does anyone care to take a guess?

A common question for strobists who have a stack of 600rt's and want to use them on non-canon cameras wirelessly. A quick video of using a yongnuo STE-3 to gain the ability and also second curtain sync.

http://youtu.be/mEJYxnhUEMw

Hey guys. I would like to upgrade to FF, but I don't know which camera I should get. I make much photos ans videos. Videos often in good light, photos often in bad light. I would like to have the 5D III for sport photography, but this one is way too expensive for me and so I prefer the 6D. My Question: Would it worth the money to buy the 6D? Is the 6D faster than the 60D?

Any suggestions for me? :-\

Not very happy with this decision as the lens is quite good. But just for use once a year, am not sure if I should hold on to it.
Will buy the Sigma 150-600 sports. But will it be available before my next trip in Feb is the question. Do you think I should wait till the trip is over before selling? What if I sell and the Sigma does not deliver?

Btw the 200-400 is good but I got lots of over exposed shots when I engaged the 1.4x. Perhaps operator error but but not sure...