5D mark III Central autofocus point performance with Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3

5D mark III Central autofocus point performance with Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3

Today I discovered a very strange behavior of autofocus of this lens on 5D mark III.
If you use a single autofocus point it appears that the central point works much worse than others.

The main problem is in refocusing from near objects (~3m) to far away ones (30m).
If only a single center autofocus point is selected for use , the lens is refocusing from near objects to remote very badly. In many cases it gets stuck.

In fact, somehow, I obviously thought that the center point should give the best results. But it turned out that any other point except the central one provides much better refocusing (on 5D mark III). It works a bit slow but OK.

At first, I suspected that maybe it's my camera glitches. So, I put on the Canon EF300 / 4 L IS with 1.4x converter, and of cause the central point here worked exceptionally well with a Canon lens, so that means the camera is OK.
Just don’t understand how it is possible?

P.S.: The lens has actually been updated with the new firmware at a local Tamron service.
The AF menu, "Lens drive when AF impossible" is turned "ON".

600EX-RT - invalid dead battery indication & fix

One of my lights came up the other day with a dead battery indication; I thought nothing of it because it had been in a bag in my car unattended for a week or so. The indication persisted after charging the batteries, and after replacing them with known-good ones.

What worked as a fix was to connect an external battery pack and turn the flash on; after that it turns on normally without the external battery. I don't know what causes this, but that has been the fix. I'll report back if it happens again.

Jim

Another Canon Medium Format Mention

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<p><a href="http://www.photographybay.com/2014/08/08/canon-camera-with-sensor-bigger-than-35mm-in-september/" target="_blank">Photography Bay</a> has posted that one of their sources has said Canon will announce something that has to do with a “bigger sensor than 35mm” for Photokina.</p>
<p>I’m not sure we’ll see a product, but it’s possible we see a technology demo or a development announcement.</p>
<p>There’s a fair bit of medium format talk going on with all the manufacturers, but we still don’t seem to have the smoking gun.</p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.photographybay.com/2014/08/08/canon-camera-with-sensor-bigger-than-35mm-in-september/" target="_blank">PB</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

A Bit of EOS 7D Replacement Info [CR2]

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<p><strong>*UPDATE*

</strong>We’ve been told that the omission of the wifi in the 7D replacement is due to how the body is designed. The durable full metal body would make wifi transmission unreliable at best. The camera will also not have a touch screen like the EOS 70D, as Canon has opted for a much more durable solution covering the LCD.</p>
<p><strong>Original Post</strong>

There hasn’t been a lot in the way of full specifications for the replacement to the EOS 7D that we expect to be announced in September of this year. We’ve heard it will come around September 5, depending where you are on the planet.</p>
<p>A good source tells us that the new camera will have EOS-1 build quality, which we expected. The camera will be specced extremely well, but will be missing one feature. It won’t have built-in wifi. This tells me it’ll be a higher megapixel camera (24mp+?) and shoot at a very high frame rate.</p>
<p><em>More to come….</em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Suggestions of a Canon MF announcement at Photokina!

Found this over at NL
"Suggestions of a Canon MF announcement of some sort at Photokina [PB]
Although an actual product announcement seems unlikely, a 'technology demo' or concept camera might appear.
With the likely arrival of a replacement for the 7d, I' wonder if any other significant product would be held over, so as not to distract from the 'big event' ? - a 7D2 and a move to MF would certainly get the headlines though."

http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon_medium_format_2ff.html

5D mkiii with canon 600mm f/4l is ii hard to fokus

Hi.

I´m a beginner when it comes to use my Canon 600mm f/4l is ii. The purchase of that lens started my interest in bird photography lately. But I have one question/problem.

I have been taking photos of mammals earlier and they are pretty easy to hit with your "autofocus points". I normally use the center point and often nails the images perfectly even if the fellow deer for an example runs quick.

But when it comes to birds they are faster, not as easy to predict in flight and most of all smaller. They are often very hard to nail in a distance with just the center point so I would like to use more focusing points as the option where you have at least nine points or even more. But when it comes to tracking the birds in flight I find it very hard for the camera to follow the bird unless it´s just a clean sky above. If there are trees or anything else in the background the camera is having a hard time to following the bird in servo mode.

Is it the limitations of the autofokus in the Canon 5d mkiii that makes it almost impossible to use more than one focusing point or are there any adjustments that will be better for BIF? I have tried several of the different settings and also tried to optimize them myself but with no luck.

How do you do it? Any suggestions and advices to improve the tracking capabilities or is it that the focus is not good enough on that body? Maybe it´s the same with any camera that the subject needs to be covered completely with all selected points or else some of the points will find another thing to "lock up to" in the background?

Appreciate your help.

Need a bit of advice on flash triggers

I am about to invest in my first flash trigger setup and I am unsure of which way to go.
I am (as always) on a tight budget, so for now I am looking at getting either one yn-e3-st or a a set of yn 622's.
So far I only own one 600ex-rt unit, but I'll probably expand with some yongnuo's down the road.
Anyone has experience with both setups? As far as I can tell, the main things about the e3-st to be aware of is that: (i) it is more expensive [/size](ii) it will ONLY work with 600ex rt [/size](iii) it does not support an on-camera flash
Is there anything else I should be considering?

HSS with Einsteins win!

Everything I'd read about Einsteins and HSS suggested that it was a dead-end, you'll never achieve it. I've tested with a few different triggers and got nothing but black frames above the max sync speed.

But while I was fine tuning the Phottix Odin trigger with the ODS adjustments to optimize it for the Godox 360, just out of curiosity I thought I'd see one more time how I went with the Einsteins. You guessed it, with a bit of fine tuning through the Odin's ODS settings, I'm getting viable HSS with the Einsteins provided they're on full power (longest flash duration). Results with the 5D3 with it's native 1/200 sec max were kind of OK, but with the 1D MkIV and it's 1/300 sec max and smaller sensor, it's GOOD right up to 1/8000 sec. I expect it would be even smoother on an APS-C body. It'll be nice if the 7DII ships with a 1/300 sec sync speed.

OMG the Phottix Odins are an extraordinary bit of hardware. I expect if I dug into the menus a little deeper I'll discover it will make nice espresso coffee too.

-pw

Quick and Dirty AFMA

I am sure I am not the first to do this but I don't recall reading it elsewhere. A quick and easy way to check and adjust your afma is: put the camera on a tripod or on a table and focus on a target using live view (make sure to turn off "enable continuous focusing" in the live view options). look at the focus scale setting. now switch off live view and focus again. you don't need to look through the viewfinder of anything just make sure the camera doesn't move and keep watching the focus scale on the lens. If it moves to a closer point it is front focusing, a farther point back focusing. do this a few times to make sure the results are consistent then adjust afma accordingly. When you have it adjusted to where the focus scale setting stays in the same place when switching between live view and normal focusing then your afma is right on. This is a really good way to quickly check make adjustments at different focal lengths and distances.

Full Frame and Bigger Pixels vs. APS-C and Smaller Pixels - The Reach War

Well, I said for a long time that once I got a 5D III, I'd do some comparison shots. I've long held the opinion that crop sensor cameras, like the 7D, do have value in certain circumstances. The most significant use case where a camera like the 7D really shows it's edge over full frame cameras is in reach-limited situations. A reach limited situation is one in which you cannot get physically closer to your subject, and your subject does not fill the frame. The likely case is that you are using your longest lens, and will likely crop in post.

In the past, others have made the argument that a camera like the 5D III or 1D X has so much more image quality than a camera like the 7D that the 7D could never compare. The argument was made that an upsampled 5D III or 1D X image (or even, for that matter, D800/E, D600, etc. image) would be just as good.

I'd like to prove my case. I've taken the most reach-limited scenario possible...photographing the moon, with a 1200mm lens (Canon EF 600mm f/4 L II w/ Canon EF 2x TC III). I used a Canon EOS 7D and a Canon EOS 5D Mark III for imaging. The lens and camera were attached to an Orion Atlas EQ-G equatorial tracking mount, operating in Lunar tracking mode, to minimize any other factors that might affect image quality. Seeing (atmospheric turbulence measure) was average.

wXqY3Rf.gif


Above is a GIF image of the 7D and 5D III images scaled to the same size, overlaid directly on top of each other using Photoshop's layer difference blending mode for best possible alignment. Both images were created exactly the same way, by initially focusing with BackyardEOS' focus module for optimum focus (BYEOS is like having a 2560x1600 live view screen...it's awesome!) The image exposures for both cameras are 1/100s f/8 ISO 200. Five images for both cameras were taken, the best frame from each set was chosen for comparison. Both images were maximally cropped simply by choosing 1:1 in Lightroom. Both images had identical processing applied in Lightroom (one image was processed, it's settings were copied and pasted onto the other.) Both images were initially scaled to approximately 1/4 their original size (770x770 pixels, to be exact).

The 5D III image was then layered onto the 7D image, and upsampled in Photoshop by a scale factor of exactly 161.32359522807342533660887502944%. This scale factor was derived by computing the sensor diagonals of both cameras:

Code:
ffDiag = SQRT(36^2 + 24^2) = 43.266615305567871517430655209646
apscDiag = SQRT(22.3^2 + 14.9^2) = 26.819768828235637870277777227866

Then dividing the FF diagonal over the APS-C diagonal:

Code:
43.266615305567871517430655209646/26.819768828235637870277777227866 = 1.6132359522807342533660887502944x

Then finally multiplying by 100% (to get a relative scale factor that I could directly apply with Photoshop's layer scaling tool.)

I believe the GIF above speaks for itself. The larger pixel size of the 5D III clearly does not resolve as much detail as the 7D does. Not only is the 7D image sharper, but there is a significant increase in fine details, small craters, nuances of color, etc. Here is another GIF, this time the images are only 1/2 original size (any larger, and the effects of seeing diminish any real benefit...I've had days where seeing is excellent, and more detail can be resolved, but sadly tonight was not one of those days):

zsbGCQX.gif


The 7D's smaller pixels, despite being a generation prior to the 5D III's, are still resolving more detail, especially fine edges to crater rims (some of which don't even show up at all in the FF image), and are extracting a finer and more nuanced level of color. Many smaller craters, especially those that are inside larger craters, as well as the central mounds of many craters, are either difficult to make out or simply don't appear in the 5D III image, where as they show up clearly in the 7D image.

A common reach-limited use case is bird photography. Similar to the moon, it can be difficult to get close to and fully extract all the detail from a small songbird, shorebirds, and shy waders or waterfowl. One either needs a significantly longer lens on the full frame (I am still experimenting with the 5D III, but I'll probably be using 840mm and 1200mm a lot more than 600mm), or you need the skill to get much closer to your subjects, in order to fully take advantage of the benefits the larger frame has to offer.

Anyway, there you have it. The 5D III is an excellent camera, and when you have the option of framing identically (i.e. filling the frame with your subject), the larger frame trounces the 7D in terms of image quality. It gathers 2.6002949408613476991603214253469x more light:

Code:
(36 * 24) / (22.3 * 14.9) = 864 / 332.27 =  2.6002949408613476991603214253469

With more than two and a half times more light, it's two and a half times better. Like using two and a half stops lower ISO on the cropped sensor. However if you don't have the option of either getting closer to your subject, or using a super long lens (not everyone has the option of spending $13,800 ($12,800+$500+$500) on a 600mm f/4 II and both of Canon's Mark III TCs), then there is no question that a camera like the 7D, or currently the better option the 70D, is going to give you the option of creating more detailed photos.

UPDATES:

Ok, here are a few updates, as per requested.

The first image here is the 7D and 5D III at "native" size. To further clarify my procedure from above. These images were "cropped", however they were cropped such that 100% of the sensor height was used. The only parts of the image that were discarded were the empty black sky areas to the left and right of the moon. That means, from a technical standpoint, these are 1:1 crops. They are then downsampled, but since I used 100% of the sensor height, these crops are directly indicative of the relative size difference of the moon in both frames.

lixcodU.gif


You'll notice the 5D III image is sharp. Both images were sharp, or at least, as sharp as I could get them. I basically used a live view method of focusing, however one that is much more advanced. I used the program BackyardEOS, which is an astrophotography imaging tool that is specifically designed for Canon EOS cameras (which are endemic in the astrophotography world for budget imagers...the T3, T3i, 60Da and 6D are pretty much the top cameras you'll find in astrophotographers kits...those that don't use dedicated astrophotography CCDs.)

urkTiJX.jpg


BYEOS has a brilliant frame and focus wizard. It takes the live view feed from the camera, and renders it on a computer screen. I can maximize the program and basically get 2560x1600 live view (minus a bit program panels and border).

I use these tools to focus:

kPThlAC.jpg


I use coarse and medium to get focus close, then step with fine. The fine focusing arrows are extremely fine...they are designed to focus stars, so they move the focus group in the lens by the smallest possible amount. I spent about five minutes with these tools with both cameras to find the best focus possible. It isn't as easy as it sounds...you don't just end up with a crisp, sharp moon. The moon, at that size, looks more like it was dropped into a vat of boiling water, and every few seconds you have a moment where the "water" (atmospheric turbulence or "seeing") clears, and in that moment you have to gauge whether to focus forward or back to get it better.

So, the images are focused as best as I could get them.

The next image here is a noise comparison. It has three frames...a 7D crop that is unscaled, a 5D III crop that is unscaled, and a 7D crop that mirrors the 5D III crop that IS scaled. The 7D, at native size, definitely has more noise. It also looks almost as soft as the 5D III image.

xRjZskv.gif


When the 7D image is downsampled to the same size as the 5D III image...any advantage the 5D III had in terms of noise disappears. The 7D image clears up a bit, and appears a little sharper. Fine details pop a little bit more than they do with the 5D III.

Why? Because the moon covered the same absolute sensor area. There is a difference in pixel count between the two images, but overall, both sensors gathered exactly the same amount of light! That's the key there. There is no advantage to a larger sensor if you are not utilizing that increase in sensor area. If your using the same exact absolute sensor area between both cameras...there is no difference. If the 7D had 6.25µm pixels, then the two cameras, in this kind of situation, would perform IDENTICALLY.

In a reach-limited scenario, you want smaller pixels. It really doesn't matter if your using a full frame sensor, a medium format sensor, a micro 4/3rds sensor, or an APS-C sensor. If the pixels are all the same size, and you put the same number of pixels on your subject...assuming all four of those sensors use the same technology, there is literally no difference. That is usually not the case, though. Smaller sensors generally tend to use smaller pixels. The 7D still has smaller pixels than the D800 and D810. Smaller pixels trump bigger pixels when you are reach-limited.

7D or wait for update...

I had previously a t2i then upgraded to 60D, 7D, 5DII... then all my equipment was stolen on a trip :(

I'm at that point where I really need equipment again after a year hiatus. Given the current price of a 7D and 28-135 ($1099), it is hard to beat. I know the lens isn't anything special, but it will do the job until I fill out the L toolbox again.

On the other hand, the 7DII is right around the corner, but that is just the announcement date... I don't expect to actually be able to get one until late 2014 or early 2015. My favorite camera out of all bodies i've had in the pas was the 7D, even more so than the 5DII, but the sensor is so old now. I'll kick myself if the 7DII retails at $1399 or $1499 for body only. What do you all think?

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