Threads

idene · Jul 21, 2014

Shot this using the 5D3 and Canon 35mm F1.4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_-DMLAlnqo

tomscott · Jul 21, 2014

Show your moonlit landscapes.

These were taken during the full moon July 2014. Haweswater Reservoir, Cumbria, UK.

5DMKIII 16-35mm F2.8

Haweswater moonscape, Haweswater Reservoir, Derelict Barn, Corpse Road, Cumbria by TomScottPhoto, on Flickr

Moonlit Haweswater Resevoir, Corpse Road, Cumbria by TomScottPhoto, on Flickr

sanigo · Jul 21, 2014

Hi every experts!
I bought a second-hand 1Ds mark iii, which was manufactured in 2008.
Yesterday, I tested it for dead pixels, to find out that it has a lot of dead/hot pixels. The shutter speed is 30s, ISO 200, with body cap on and viewfinder closed. There are 101 dead pixels, and 924 hot pixels.
The situation will be worse when increase the iso number.
I have used the "clean sensor manually" hoursly. But still few luck.

eninja · Jul 20, 2014

I recently got a 10 month old 35mm f2 IS. On top of my two month old 40mm pancake.

I love the pictures coming out from pancake when it came, so sharp, so cute, so light, no distortion, i can make head shots with no enlarge parts.
6D and 40mm combination as light as like i was holding my nexus 7.

Recently, I invested on 35mm f2 IS.
I could not love the pictures at f2, portrait subject is not sharp, and its just giving me a headache looking at it.
at f2.8 picture almost identical on both lens.
I shoot 1/60 and faster so i eliminate the love for IS.

Field of view wise, with 40mm i can take one step backward and field of view is the same.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong. And need more time to play with 35mm. Or I could rent a 35L and see how it fairs.

again f2 is not a keeper at all. or my copy is not sharp as per normal.

notapro · Jul 20, 2014

These are images that might be desribed as macro bodyscapes. For color images, I can only guess as to how they might be rendered in the post, as I have had varying results with color images, whether using the "Save for Web" option or not (in Photoshop).

No image here is of any "nether region". The file names give information as to the location or nature of the photographed spaces.

MrFotoFool · Jul 20, 2014

Last thread is getting long, starting a new one. Post your favorite zoo photos below.

I will start it off with a recent shot at a summer night opening at Reid Park Zoo. Canon 5D3 with 70-200 2_8 (non IS) and 1.4x extender. Racked out to full 280mm (and cropped in post) and wide open at f4 (extender takes one stop away). ISO 2500.

ScottyP · Jul 19, 2014

I found this Nikon Rumors thread kind of interesting to snoop on.

http://forum.nikonrumors.com/discussion/2942/phottix-mitrosmitros-my-experience

Canon Rumors · Jul 19, 2014

HTML:

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<p>This patent may show where the next PowerShot D series camera is heading. Below is a patent for a 45x zoom lens that is for a waterproof/dustproof application.</p>
<ul style="color: #444444;">
<li><strong>Patent Publication No. 2014-109664 (Google Translated)</strong>
<ul>
<li>Publication date 2014.6.12</li>
<li>Filing date 2012.11.30</li>
<li>Related 2014-109665,2014-109666</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Example 1
<ul>
<li>Zoom ratio 44.41</li>
<li>Focal length f = 4.62-13.02-205.00mm</li>
<li>Fno. 3.91-6.14-9.00</li>
<li>Half angle ω = 36.14-16.58-1.08 °</li>
<li>99.33-103.38-113.64mm overall length of the lens</li>
<li>BF 12.11-10.81-4.28mm</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2014-07-19" target="_blank">EG</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">c</span>r</strong></p>

Hannes · Jul 19, 2014

I decided to try and see what happened if I modified the brilliant Yongnuo YN-560 III to bare bulb. End result was interesting, large modifiers are better filled and amount of light has increased by between 1/3 to 1/2 stop depending on modifier (bigger effect in softbox than brolly). Light has also turned a bit cooler as one of the fresnel lenses is slightly warming. The quality of light seemed a little better with less of a central hot spot and somewhat softer in a softbox and a fair bit harder in my PLM knock off (hobo lighting 163cm parabolic silver umbrella). I wonder if this is because there was less light spillage around the umbrella bouncing off the small room I was testing it in.

Now for pictures (first is clicky for all the pictures in the series):

Bare bulb modyfiying the Yongnuo YN-560 III flash

The flash before modding it. Please be aware that you could potentially electrocute yourself doing this if you don't know how to make sure the capacitor is empty. You could obviously ruin your flash as well, don't blame me in either case.

Taking off the side strips of rubber and metal clamps holding it in place

Completely disassembled. The wire on the left either needs to be soldered off the board and then back on again, cut and rejoined or the cage holding the flash tube and reflector in place to be cut open to let you take out the flash tube.

Cutting an aluminium blanking to replace the fresnel lens. 1.2mm aluminium sheet is ideal thickness. I used a standard hacksaw and metal file to finish the edges. I also tried polishing it with a dremel but results weren't good as the surface became more dull.

Blanking plate together with a piece of 32mm wide acrylic tube with 2mm thick walls cut in half. Piece is 60mm long.

Holes drilled, one is 5mm and the other 6mm. The larger hole is needed to pass the flash tube through and the smaller is perfect size to use the rubber retainers to protect the wires.

All fitted back together. I elected to cut the wire and solder it back together to avoid soldering on the PCB. This may increase resistance and decrease flash power slightly but I took that chance instead of risking ruining the flash. Rubber retainer has been cut in half as otherwise it wouldn't fit and the pieces are held in place with a bit of electrical tape on the backside. The white plastic basket holding the flash tube and reflector may need some bits snipped out of the sides to leave enough space to pass the wires up. Acrylic tube was glued on with epoxy glue as it would bond better between the uneven edge of the acrylic and the aluminium than super gluing (some poor sawing by me).

Total cost - about £5 with offcuts and epoxy glue off ebay and I still have enough parts to do another three flashes. It took about three hours in total as I was trying things as I went along and I don't have anywhere proper to work on these projects. If you have a normal work bench and know what you are doing I'm pretty sure you could knock one out in half an hour or so.

johnhenry · Jul 19, 2014

As an owner of a 200mm 1.8, I don't use it that often but when I do, I like to get the absolute most out of it.

That being said, since this lens is moderately popular, and Canon supports correction data for the 200mm 2.0 IS, are there any ways to get this working with the 1.8?

mbigelowphotographer · Jul 19, 2014

I've been having MAJOR problems with the Yongnuo YN-622C and my 580EX IIs. I have two 580EX IIs and both of them have now gone out on me, multiple times. One of them has gone out at LEAST 5 times. I'm honestly starting to lose track now. I keep sending them back to Canon for repair.

Anyways, after reading an article that was posted by a company that was doing testing for this same problem with Pocketwizards, I figured that it was an inherent problem with the 580EX II and using it with off-camera high-speed sync, or off-camera ETTL. The thing is, I wasn't using them with HSS, nor was I "cranking" away on them.

So anyways, I decided that I would try out the YN-622C on-camera, with the 580EX II on top of it. No HSS. No fast shooting. So just a basic pass-through mode, both of them mounted on-camera. STILL went out on me -- after ONE shot!! The 580EX II is doing the same thing.....AGAIN. It seems to be firing the pre-flash at full power and then the ETTL exposure comes out completely dark. Then, in manual mode, it fires full power.

Every time Canon repairs them, they say that they are replacing the battery housing and battery door......? What the heck. How could the YN-622C be causing this problem?

I'm BEYOND frustrated with this. I'm ready to throw those flashes in the garbage disposal.

Steve Todd · Jul 19, 2014

Here's a short video feature on an award winning movie maker turned landscape photog. He's an Albuquerque resident (transplant from LA) making a very good business for himself.

BTW, notice his choice of camera/lens combination, and his (homemade) tripod mount!

Sorry, the original link didn't work very well! Here's a link that actually works on YouTube:

Health scare leads artist to world-renowned art

magnum · Jul 19, 2014

Hi, this is my first post. Relatively new to serious photography but always been a Canon fan (back to when I acquired my first SLR a Canon F1, circa 1978). But recently (about 2 years ago) my wife and I joined a camera club and have been entering club competitions serious for 2013 and 2014. So we are on a steep learning curve. Here are couple of images I shot at an annual medieval event

jd7 · Jul 18, 2014

Hi all

I've been playing with a Canon 24-70 4L IS for the last few weeks and comparing it to my old Sigma 24-70 2.8 EX DG HSM. I haven't had that much time to do comparisons but so far I'm struggling to be impressed by the 24-70 4L IS. I was hoping - expecting really - it would be a clear step up from the Sigma, but it's closer than that. I know I'm pixel peeping but still, U have to say I was expecting more from a Canon L (especially after lenses like the 70-200 2.8 IS II, and non-L lenses like the 35 2 IS).

Trying to sum it up:

At f/2.8 the Sigma is pretty good at 24mm, but it gets steadily worse as the focal length increases. The drop off in sharpness and contrast by 70mm is significant.

At f/4, the Sigma shows a clear improvement over 2.8 across the whole focal length range. The quality still drops as the focal length increases but the drop off is less significant than at 2.8.

At f/4, the Canon is good at 24mm, but by 35mm the quality has dropped noticeably. By 50mm I'd go so far as to call it poor - certainly for sharpness, if not so much for contrast. It improves again by 70mm, but it doesn't get back to the standard it set at 24mm. I would say the Sigma wins at f/4 at 50mm and perhaps even 35mm.

From various reviews, I expected the Canon to be weaker towards the middle of its range, but looking at the LensRentals' resolution tests I thought it would still be pretty decent there. What has surprised me is just how poor it seems towards the middle of its focal length range. I think I'm still leaning towards keeping the Canon and selling the Sigma - because the Canon's IS has its uses, it's a bit lighter, it's better at 24mm and 70mm, and it's got its semi-macro mode for a bit of fun. That said, the Sigma's f/2.8 has its uses too - even if the quality drops towards the longer end of the focal length range - and I'd get more if sold the Canon.

Anyone else really disappointed with the 24-70 4L IS in the middle of its focal length range? For those who are happy with their 4L ISs, are you genuinely happy with them at 50mm? Have I got a poor copy? Hhmmm, I don't want to pay for the Canon 24-70 2.8L II and I'm uncertain about the Tamron 2.8 VC (my brother has one). Maybe I should just keep my Sigma? Or look for a 2nd-hand 24-105 4L IS?

Thanks for any thoughts.

Canon Rumors · Jul 18, 2014

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<p>The EOS 5D Mark IV received a mention recently as possibly being announced in early 2015. One of the features mentioned as a possibility is 4K video capture. Although, I’m pretty sure every future Canon DSLR is going to be rumored to shoot 4K video.</p>
<p><strong>CR’s Take

</strong>If the EOS 5D Mark IV is coming in early 2015 as this rumor suggests, then I cannot see 4K being a part of the feature set. I don’t think we’ll see 4K video recording in a “prosumer” level DSLR from Canon until the technology moves down the Cinema EOS line.</p>
<p>I asked someone in the know recently if Canon had market research on who buys the EOS 5D Mark III and for what purpose. I was told that the videographer focused purchaser of the EOS 5D Mark III was less than 10% of the total sales. The camera is, and has always been, for the still photographer.</p>
<p>If Canon wants to grow in cinema and 4K capture, and they do, then they have a whole new line of cameras that is one generation into its existence to add these and other features to at various price points.</p>
<p>My 2 cents anyway…. :)</p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.canonwatch.com/canon-eos-5d-mark-iv-come-4k/" target="_blank">CW</a>] via [<a href="http://blog.planet5d.com/2014/07/canon-5d-mark-iv-might-feature-4k-video/?hvid=4bop0K" target="_blank">P5D</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Canon Rumors · Jul 18, 2014

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<p>Is Sigma getting ready to enter the world of professional cinema lenses? It seems like a logical next step for the manufacturer, as they have become quite aggressive in the higher end DSLR space. While Sigma didn’t flat out say they were entering the market, they also didn’t deny it.</p>
<p>Sigma’s CEO Kazuto Yamaki left the following hint recently in an interview with <a href="http://resourcemagonline.com/2014/07/sigma-photo/#_am8vg5sm" target="_blank">Resource Magazine</a>:</p>
<p><em>“How could one of the greatest innovators of lens technology in the world not be producing lenses for high-end digital video and motion picture cameras? With such high standards, cinematographers seem like a natural market for Sigma. When I asked Kazuto about this, he simply smiled and said the two words that make every tech writer crave more: “No comment.” It looks like Sigma may still has a few more tricks up their sleeve…”</em></p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://resourcemagonline.com/2014/07/sigma-photo/#_am8vg5sm" target="_blank">RM</a>] via [<a href="http://sigma-rumors.com/2014/07/sigma-produce-cinema-lenses/" target="_blank">SR</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

RLPhoto · Jul 18, 2014

I have been saving my monies for along time to adopt a MF system to replace one of my 5D3's for dedicated Staged Photo usage. I have a budget of 8K to start a system and this is what I liked so far.

What I'd Like out of the system

1. Sync Speed
2. Prolonged Shelf life. (How long can I use it before no Backs work for it or other pitfalls.)
3. Repair & Upkeep Costs
4. Len's Selection vs Pricing
5. ??? Anything else I should consider?

Hasselblad H2D + 39mp Kodak Back + HV90x Viewfinder + 80mm HC F/2.8 - More or less around 8K.

Or should I consider Phase One? They're alittle more pricey though...

Alot of options but I'd like to know what system I should choose.

surapon · Jul 18, 2014

Dear friends.
Yes, One in life time to walk on the bare stone mountain which have slope 30-45 degree, for 1:30 hour from the parking to the beautiful arch = worth time in my life. Yes AT THE ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, UTAH.
Our dear friend Mr. Yorgasor said that :

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=19469.0

" Oh, and it's an absolutely lousy idea to go hiking at night in unfamiliar territory. You may think your eyes adjust and you can see everything just fine, but your depth perception is extremely limited. The trail to delicate arch is very difficult to follow over rocky ground, and I ended up getting to the arch the wrong way. It was so wrong, I almost didn't make it back. The area around that arch is very treacherous at night. I couldn't go back the way I came (the clouds covered the moon and I had even less light) making it very difficult to judge how steep things were and if I could really cross in a place or if I'd just slide down that deep bowl.

I was consigned to sleeping in a crevice in 30 degree to protect me from the harsh winds before I decided to look one more time for the real trail back and found it.

And whatever you do, don't try to take a picture of the arch from this southern side. Actually, this angle from either side is a horrible idea, especially at night."

Ha, Ha, Ha---- For me , the first 30 minutes with full pack of cameras gear on my back = the Lousy Idea for me, and I almost stop this trip , quit and go back to the car.
Enjoy.
Surapon

Glenn Bartley · Jul 18, 2014

Blue-necked Tanagers are a common but stunning species on the manu road in Peru. Especially if you find a bush they are feeding at ;-)

In case anyone is interested you can also check out this video of tropical birds too - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5-a77qxWQU&list=UULVHIbesoynX0DeleFhx9FQ

Camera Model: Canon EOS 7D
Shutter speed: 1/400 sec
Aperture: 7.1
Exposure compensation: -1/3
ISO: 400
Lens: EF600mm f/4L IS II USM +1.4x

Shootitalready · Jul 18, 2014

Hello Everyone,

Finally confronted with a problem (?) serious enough to post my first topic / question on the CR Forum:

I moved to Kansai (the South of Japan) recently, and summer here is proving to be a bit of a challenge! The temperature is climbing and climbing (god knows were it will stop) but what's worse, it is getting very humid here (75% and going up).
I live in an old (crappy :-[ Japanese house, and the humidity is creeping in from morning, and hardly leaves at night!

So I am beginning to worry about my gear...

Could you kind people give me some advice as to what one can do to protect his equipment against this invisible enemy ?

I am especially worried about my lenses getting some kind of fungus growth or other humidity related damage (summer here apparently lasts until well into October!!)

Thanks a lot for the input!

eninja · Jul 18, 2014

i was comparing image taken by 50mm 1.2 L vs 1.4 version.
There something about the image produce by 1.2 L that makes it Wow factor for me.

Like it has something to do with the color and amount of sharpness and gradient balance of depth of field.

Can someone give me insight what the hell is it im liking with the 50mm 1.2 L?

Alrik89 · Jul 18, 2014

Hi guys,

i got my hands on some Tamron lenses recently, concrete the 24-70mm, the 70-300mm and the 70-200mm VC. And there is an issue, i want to talk about: the zoom ring. What's bothering me is the fact, that the zoom ring isn't close to the camera, it is switched with the focus ring and sits at the far end of the lens now. So i've got to stretch out my left arm way more to reach the zoom ring. I'm uncomfortable with it, because in my feeling it is much less stable than if i grab the zoom near the camera. Furthermore the focus ring sits so close next to the zoom ring, i nearly turned it too, when i grabed and turned the zoom ring.

I thing, the tamron lenses are totally interesting, but there issues are really bothering me.
What about you? Did you have any concerns about the arrangement of the rings on your tamron lenses, especially when you were coming from the canon counterpart? How did you deal with it? Or was it never disturbing for you?

Thanks for your answers.

sanjosedave · Jul 17, 2014

Is anyone using large softboxes, over 40 inches, for their speedlights - which brand/model are you using. I'm looking for one above 40 inches, and have a limited budget

ahsanford · Jul 17, 2014

I started a survey on a 7D2 rumor thread, but thought I'd increase my hits by having a standalone posting.

Head here for my simple and fast survey re: displays on the back of DSLR bodies. I'm trying to segment everyone's take on touch vs. no touch, rigid vs. tilty-swively, etc.

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/TK65Z2Y
(I did this offsite to get more than one question asked with a multiple checkbox response, that's all)

Everyone can participate once, and then repeating the link should show the results. It's interesting so far, but I'd like more responses if you have 90-120 seconds to give. It's fast.

Thanks,
A

jdramirez · Jul 17, 2014

I was in a thread about someone going to Africa and the obligatory word of warning was given about theft of gear...

It occurred to me... what about locking or bodies with s code the way we do our phones. Photographers need immediate access to their gear, so doing so each time it powers up isn't an option... but what about every 24 hours? In the morning, enter the code and it won't require the code to be entered until the next twenty four hours...

If the body has wifi, you can back up the code to Canon interwebs and if you forget, you can have an email sent to your account.

Would this deter theft at all... certainly might deter resale value... to get the camera working again, a thief would have to connect it to the computer and re flash the firmware to the device... which might be too much work for a thief.

I guess they could sell it for parts.. Huh...

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