One of the arguments I often see from those not enthused with mirrorless cameras is that the sensor is more apt to get dusty - that the mirror somehow magically keeps dust off the sensor. My OM-D requires less attention than my Canon in that regard. Is anyone aware of a thorough review/test on the subject? I'm inclined to think that the argument has no real merit.

I've seen this, but ...
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/50766602

Hi Everyone!

I've got a question: I've never shot video before, but I would like to start doing so, for the beginning without a rack or any specialised equipment, really mainly to try it to see whether I like it and have talent, or rather not.

I understand that I'll want a stabilised lens for this, but I don't have one at the moment (except my 70-200, which is - I presume - not an ideal lens for video). I also understand that one should preferably not zoom during video.

My question is: Is there a recommended "natural looking" focal length for an FF body, that would be a good choice for general purpose video?

I consider the EF 35mm f/2 IS USM for this, as it would also complement my existing set of lenses nicely (much better than the 24/28mm 2.8 IS ones) and gets some decent reviews - for photography.
Or should I just start with my 24-70, accept shakey movies at the beginning and see which focal length works best for me and decide on which IS-lens afterwards?

Any thoughts would be appreciated,
Sulla

As I went out this weekend to grab a few final shots for my upcoming book, I ran into my typical macro nightmare - wind. it was probably 5-6mph on and off, but that's a veritable windstorm beyond 0.5x or higher and it never seems to stop moving. I could use a plamp (if I owned one) and shield of some sort (annoying to carry along), or the most obvious thing, flash. I'm not a fan of macro flash, at least in the field, so I try to shoot all my stuff with natural light if possible.

Unfortunately, it was overcast, and even at ISO 3200 on my tripod mounted 5DIII, I was dealing with speeds around 1/20s at f/5.6 and I needed f/16- f/22 to get sufficient DOF.

I decided to try spraying and praying, and was able to nail these two sharp photos (ratio was roughly 1 sharp shot to 12 blurry ones):

f/16, 1/13s, ISO 3200


and even more impressively f/22, 4/10s, ISO 1600:


Why oh why haven't I tried this before??? Obviously it's catching the subject during that imperceptible pause between movements. I will be doing this with windy landscapes in the future, too. Thought I would pass this along...

Perks of the job


http://usnews.nbcnews.com/_news/2013/10/21/21059979-presidential-party-obama-hosts-wedding-of-white-house-photographer-pete-souza?lite

I found this graph a little while ago and I was surprised about how well I could relate to it. I want to know how all of you progressed and if you followed these stages. ;D ;D

Hi guys,

I'm looking at getting my 40D converted to IR so that i can get some nighttime snaps on animals on safari next year, as we're doing a couple of night drives and for obvious reasons can't use white light. I've found a couple of reputable companies in the UK that can do the IR conversion, so that's nice and easy. The only tricky part is the lighting side of things, as it all seems to be pretty expensive.

I'm a bit weight limited on the trip, and some of the IR "lights" are quite heavy even thoug they are LED. As such, I was thinking of converting a flash unit. I have found some IR-transmissive perspex that only lets IR light through, and was thinking of getting a Yongnuo 560, taking out the clear lens and substituting it for a matching peice of IR transmissive perspex, thus giving me an IR flash invisible to the wildlife, but not to my camera. I appreciate the YN560 isn't ETTL, and that's not as problem.

I appreciate that I will lose some light, and I'm expecting the wildlife to be circa 20m away.

Any thoughts / suggestions on if this is a good idea, if anyone can recommend an alternative or a good supplier of cheap IR lights that have a 20m+ range?

Huge thanks in advance,

Grant

Today all in a sudden my like new Tamron SP24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD having auto focus problem.
When I press half way on the shutter, it will turn from left to right and right to left non-stop.
I bought it from bhphotovideo.com, does anyone know if they have a service center in LA ?

Hi,

I do photography for a hobby and am not too updated on the technical aspects of the latest lineup of cameras these days.

I'm just wondering as to what exactly are the benefits of a mirrorless FF? The only benefit to my mind is a shaving off of approximately 600-800 grams from the bodyweight. And yes, maybe with a dedicated lens lineup, a bit more.

Thoughts?

Cheers ... J.R.

Hey guys, I just got a nice used 5d, and I'm wondering If their are any good budget lenses for landscape and street shooting. Sorry ifthis is the wrong thread to ask. Thanks for the help!!!

From Nikonrumors:

Some additional specifications of the upcoming full frame retro styled Nikon digital camera:

Standard F-mount
Pentaprism viewfinder (meaning the camera will not be mirrorless)

The camera will meter even with non-AI lenses down to full aperture
The camera will ship with a new special edition Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G lens to match the look/design of the body
The camera will have physical controls and excellent build quality (which explains the 765g weight)
Expeed 3 processor
Same sensor as in the Nikon D4
Nikon calls it a "hybrid" camera - not sure what exactly they mean with that
The announcement most likely will take place in the next 1-3 weeks

When are we going to see something similar from Canon? I'm hoping for a digital AE-1. It'll be truly amazing. I'd gladly trade my new 6D for something like this even if it only has an AF similar to 60D and a 1DX sensor for a price between 6D and 5D3.

Did my homework but still ooking for opinion.

In addition to my kit, I'm in the market for a mirrorless for wife and daily use (man purse use).

Then the idea is to get as close as DSLR results with limiting weight to the max, which precludes from anything with lens ecosystem. I prefer fast glass and I'm more a 35 than 50 person. Fast AF is nice but non critical, basic street speed is enough (and I do some street with a 85L so...clearly no need for speed). Low light performance is indeed very important.

With all that in mind, I'm of course leaning toward the Fuji X100s. Reviews are good and I know quite a few of you have some fun with it...

But is there some naysayers with a better option that fits my criterions??

hi all,

My sister wants a DSLR (for a long time) and as a good brother i am going to surprise her with it for xmas (karma and all that). So I got a thinking.... If i were to start a fresh again, what would i do, knowing what i know now. I would pick up a used 5D (I)... But I know my sister won't take to kindly to being given an ebay camera for xmas, nor will she appreciate the advantage it would have given her.... So, do I get her a 600/650d kit new, or a second hand 5D? Do i force my opinion upon her, or do i let her play with her xxxD and choose her own path? If you knew nothing about cameras, how would you feel getting a used present?

I currently have a T2i and want to purchase a 6D. My 17-55mm is my favorite lens for the T2i but it will not work on the 6D. It looks like the 24-70mm will be very close to the 17-55 (27-88mm) but which one do I get? I really don't want to spend the $2,000 (give or take) for the 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM so I'm left with the EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM ($1,200 used) or the a EF 24-70mm f/2.8 USM (used for about $1,000). I would consider the II USM if everyone believes that it is the only option but I can't see how I could justify a $1,000 difference in price. And while you're at it, is there really that much difference between the two two f/2.8's? Thanks.

Heads up.... just picked one up at B&H for $799.00....

Hello all-

I posted a few weeks back about my first experience shooting college football and it appears I'll be doing quite a bit more of that as well as basketball and general PJ work. As of right now, I'm shooting on a gripped 5D III, a 16-35 II, a 70-200 II, and a nifty fifty.

CPS loaned me a second 5D III as well as their 400 IS II to shoot that last game, but as you may or may not know, these are evaluation loans and as such you can only "borrow" each item 1-2 times, depending on your level of membership. As such, I've decided without a doubt that I need another camera. In truth, I would prefer to cover football with 3, but we'll worry about that in due time. With all of this, keep in mind I will also be buying EITHER a 300 2.8 IS II OR a 400 2.8 IS 1.

So, the question becomes which one? As I need to sort this out fairly soon, I don't have a ton of time to save. Yes, I know the answer to this question is 1DX, but I can't do it right now. I'm between another 5D III, maintaining battery and control compatibility, or a 1D IV.

I love the 5D III, no real complaints. It's great at what it does, and honestly, it's not a half bad sports camera. If I get a third camera later next year, it will be a 5D III more likely than not. I did notice some shots missed due to having "only" 6 fps. The tracking though was largely fine. IQ I was happy with. I did some cropping, but not a ton with the 400. If anything, I could use to back off a bit.

This leads me to consider the 1D IV. I can pick one up in good shape for roughly the same price as a refurb 5d III + grip. I could get the newer 300 2.8 IS II and get slightly less reach than 400, while gaining fps. I expect tracking to be fine, metering fine, etc. After all, this was THE sports camera before 1DX, it's not all the sudden bad.

I've got a 1DX (I'm gonna hate myself) and 300 2.8 IS II coming in for my next game, shooting Teddy Bridgewater against UConn early November so I should get a feel for both the speed of the 1D-series and the difference in reach, should I go 5D III on a second camera and stick with 300.

Your thoughts on 5D III / 1D IV and on 400 ver I / 300 v II would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton!

I know the argument with full frame v. crop is that you have a larger sensor so the individual sensor "pixels" aren't as close together and that allows for larger pixels and better low light performance.

So if that is true... do you think that with all the in camera processing we have today that anyone would consider a crop sensor that has full frame low light capabilities at 6400 iso? 8mp is still a decent amount of data and would allow for some cropping, though not as much as a 20+ mp sensor in good light.

I think there are too many people who wouldn't be willing to pay $500 for a camera with ONLY 8 mp.

What is going to happen with the CANON C300, C100 now that Sony release the PXW-Z100 4K for $5,500. Are we expending an another firmware update or maybe change the prices again. Any ideas?? What could happen with EOS c100 and c300, (RAW Footage, slowmotion at 1080p (pleaaase ), Color Information 10bit color,)

Does anyone have any recommendations for a wide angle lens? I'm looking mostly for affordability (about $400), but I will be willing to go over if its a good deal. Any recommendations are appreciated. Thank you

We often here that Canon had to ditch the FD mount in order to get AF working, what advantages did the EF mount bring and what exactly are the pros and cons of lens mounts by Nikon, Sony, Pentax and others ?

Can someone talk me out from NOT buying 300mm IS f2.8 II !!!PLEASE!!!

Yes I admit, I have "Red Ring Acquisition Syndrome"

Please show me your BAD photos taken with this lens ;D ;D ;D

I work for a newspaper and we bought two Canon 1DX's to replace older equipment.

Both IDX's were defective. We returned one and sent the other to Canon. This will be the third time we're sending the 1DX back to Canon for the same reasons.

1. The mirror / screen gets small black specs in it. Some are clear others look like random shaped dark pieces of broken black glass.

2. The Auto Focus stops working. First we notice a lack of focus, then the lenses hunts a lot, then it does not focus at all.

The Canon 1DX we bought had a white "A" in the battery compartment. We were told it was adjusted by Canon after it was made so all of the above would not happen.

When we sent it in the first time it was returned with a white dot next to the "A" but the same thing happened again. And again, splash in the screen and a lack of focus all the same things happend after only a few shots.

We sent the 1DX back to Canon again and it was returned saying the "MIRROR BOX" was replaced. After a few 100 shots, we were all amazed that this happened again the very same way.

The Camera has been to Canon so much time that we can't return it to the retailer and now it's back with Canon for a 3rd time. If Canon fixed this after is was manufactured, this is really the 4th time Canon is fixing the same issue not the third.

We did some research and now we see there are many people all over the world with the same issues with the 1DX having defects or defective AF and this oil splash.

Are there others out there with this same issue? Have you had to have your new 1DX fixed 3 or 4 times?

Canon cannot seem to fix this issue and based on a Google we did, the 1DX seems to be defective in design itself. One note I read said something about oil being the issue and another about broken plastic.

This seems never ending

Martin

Hello,
I currently shoot a Canon 20D with the kit lenses (18-55 and 55-250 IS), I also use the 100-300 4.5-5.6. I'm tired of poor build quality and I just feel an upgrade would be nice. I shoot a lot of trucks / heavy vehicles, street photography and landscape. I use the 18-55 mostly because its wide (hardly use the zooms). I'd like to upgrade to some versatile L glass that will suit my needs and fit in with my budget of around $700-$900 (happy to shop at camparadise). I was thinking the 24-105 f/4 IS. I then remembered I don't own a FF body so 24mm isn't great for wide trucks and landscapes on a 20D. So maybe a 17-40 f/4? Will the lack of IS be that bad at 40mm? Are there any other options?

So Godox have beaten everyone to the punch with the release of their Godox V850 speedlite with a rechargeable Li-Ion battery.

Read more about it here -

http://flashhavoc.com/godox-v850-lithium-flash/

Why did no one else ever think to do this years ago? Why did it take so long? Is there some engineering difficulty they had to overcome? Or was it a marketing thing?

Makes no bloody sense to me why we have to use AA batteries in our Canon or Nikon flashes in this day and age.

Discuss.